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Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


Endbuster posted:

I’m the filthy sub demographic of overpowered machine devotees that weighs 135lbs and actually rips on it up to 150mph on the regular. In full gear of course. The ZX14 is at the bottom of my list for sure.

The ZRX1200 is the only big naked bike stateside avail that isn’t some fiddly diddly brand for my area. It makes the list.

Tell me more about you being a sub.

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Endbuster
Jan 7, 2013

There ain't no such thing as a free lunch.

Russian Bear posted:

Tell me more about you being a sub.

:chast2b:

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Settle down, punchy :toughguy:

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


If you're gonna roll up here and insinuate that you're doing 150mph regularly on public roads, I'm not going to be super welcoming.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




I agree with you, that was more directed at everyone. Punchy, of course, being the foil to horny man Travis’s seat pussy

UCS Hellmaker
Mar 29, 2008
Toilet Rascal

Endbuster posted:

Tell me what bike to buy: "OVERPOWERED EDITION"

I'm in the market for something bonkers. I'm not throwing a fat cam in my 1998 Superglide, as someone suggested I do since I wanted something with a bit more 'oomph.'

Instead, I'm just going to buy a bike that can haul rear end while being decently comfy or able to be made more comfy or more powerful. Hypertourers and overpowered muscle bikes. I want stupid acceleration in any gear. The list below is sort of what I'm going for, but its based off of bikes that I know and love (and have ridden).

Yamaha VMax (2000 and up, or any Gen2)
Suzuki B-King
Suzuki Hayabusa (Gen2 with ABS and up)
ZX-14R (2011 and up)
CBR1100XX Blackbird (2001 and up)
Bandit 1250
ZRX1200
K1300S

Late but a Valkyrie because Jesus Christ I love this bike. Acceleration? gently caress you can get off the on ramp at 90. Top speed is electric limited to 130 I think but you can tune it. Can be bought for 8-9k if you look, Honda reliable and drive train is literally all goldwing. Buy a new seat though, imo the OEM seat is hard as hell and uncomfortable. Buying a Corbin made it so my bony rear end wasn't dying after a long ride.

Legit want a vmax at some point, but it seems hard to find one without paying over 12k on the second gen. And they have a smaller fuel tank then you expect. Heard nothing but amazing things but finding one and not getting ripped off might be an issue.

UCS Hellmaker fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Nov 22, 2023

mCpwnage
Dec 5, 2007

Motherfuckers, If it says 55 drive 55.
So I'm a new rider looking for something to putter around town and putter around forest roads. I'm interested in some of the smaller ADV type bikes (CB500x, Versys 300x, KTM 390, Himalayan, etc). Does anyone have any to add to that list? I've test ridden all but the 390 and probably like the Honda or Kawasaki the best.

I guess my question is for one of the above, is it better to get a newer/nicer bike and not have to worry/hassle with initial maintenance but spend a bit more or an older bike with old tires and a questionable maintenance history? It seems like the savings might be washed away with a new set of tires, inspection, and overdue service.

I am planning on buying used, either from a private seller or a dealership (not sure which is preferred?) and it seems like a lot of bikes are either 201* and need some work or 202* and seem like they don't.

E-P
Apr 21, 2016
I'd add crf250/300 ralley or drz400 or dr650.

E-P fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Nov 24, 2023

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


KLX250/300 as well, either the dual sport or super moto version. Better suspension stock than the crf.

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

You could also shed ~100lbs going smaller with something like a Yamaha XT250, tw200 or suzuki Vanvan, all very capable putterers for around town and fire roads.

The general consensus is that as a new rider your priority is to ride, not to wrench, so you want something unlikely to need repairs in the near term and previously owned by someone who didn't neglect it. IMO the best previous owner is a fastidious dork with a garage who didn't modify things for modifications' sake and didn't ride it as much as they expected.

By the time you get out the door, a used bike at a dealership will cost you a good chunk of change more than the same bike on the private market ($1k+), and you'll generally have no idea how it was previously treated or maintained except for anything that's visible to the naked eye. For the right bike (or if you can't find anything good private party) it might still be worth it, and I've always assumed that if a used bike from a dealership crapped out in the week after buying it, they might help address the issue or something to avoid a scathing yelp review. Post up in the bikevestments thread if you want goon opinions on a listing.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

mCpwnage posted:

I guess my question is for one of the above, is it better to get a newer/nicer bike and not have to worry/hassle with initial maintenance but spend a bit more or an older bike with old tires and a questionable maintenance history? It seems like the savings might be washed away with a new set of tires, inspection, and overdue service.
I'm not super experienced, and I know nothing about the ADV side of things, but both asphalt focused bikes I've bought I ended up replacing the stock tires that came with the bikes even though they weren't very worn or in actual need of replacement, safety-wise (both bikes were very low mileage when I bought them) The factory tires just sort of sucked, both bikes became way more fun and confidence inspiring to ride with good rubber on them. I get the impression that this is the way it is with factory tires, at least on asphalt focused budget bikes.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

It's generally like that on basically everything up to a middleweight

300's universally have trash tyres stock

mCpwnage
Dec 5, 2007

Motherfuckers, If it says 55 drive 55.
Thanks for all the insight everyone! I really appreciate it.

I initially had my eye on a 300L Rally (or a TW200, they look like a barrel of fun), but they don't seem to exist on the used market here (Seattle).

Another thing I had been considering is that a lot of the good countrside/forest/mountain areas around here can be made much more accessible by 30mins on I5/90 so ideally a bike would be able to feel safe and comfortable at 65mph in highway traffic.

Xakura
Jan 10, 2019

A safety-conscious little mouse!

mCpwnage posted:

Another thing I had been considering is that a lot of the good countrside/forest/mountain areas around here can be made much more accessible by 30mins on I5/90 so ideally a bike would be able to feel safe and comfortable at 65mph in highway traffic.

Ah, the dual sport trap

mCpwnage
Dec 5, 2007

Motherfuckers, If it says 55 drive 55.
Ha, I guess I'm not the first baby biker in here that wants to go zoom zoom but also brrap brapp.

BabelFish
Jul 20, 2013

Fallen Rib
I've personally ridden an xt250 on I5/I90 to the local forest roads, and you can do it, but you're pretty much capped at 60 while going uphill to Snoqualmie pass.

BabelFish fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Nov 24, 2023

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

mCpwnage posted:

Thanks for all the insight everyone! I really appreciate it.

I initially had my eye on a 300L Rally (or a TW200, they look like a barrel of fun), but they don't seem to exist on the used market here (Seattle).

Another thing I had been considering is that a lot of the good countrside/forest/mountain areas around here can be made much more accessible by 30mins on I5/90 so ideally a bike would be able to feel safe and comfortable at 65mph in highway traffic.

The CRF300L will do 65 on the freeway, no problem. Comfortable, do you mean your comfort or the bike’s? I have a bike with the (exact?) same engine, maybe different gearing, but it’ll do 65 all day. The rally has some wind protection which will help for you too, if thats what you’re into (personally I would opt for the non rally version).

I think it’s a good option. If you’re interested you can go on YouTube and search chroniclesofsolid who has a bunch of videos on his.

Wild card: buy my CB300R for cheap and throw some Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR on it :hehe:

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Comfort: R1250GSA, yes, the A, with the entire Pouratech catalog poured over the bike. Ride it nowhere because it's a 7 ton bike that's daunting and is wide as the cybertruck is ugly, but enjoy the comfort it provides doing 65mph on superslab. In tow is a KDX220 for hitting the trails.
Skillbuilding: Any 250-400 Japanese dualsport, drz included. Honda 450ls offer nothing over a drz. skip em.
Kind of dirt adjacent, does 65, doesn't care if it's dropped, etc: DR650, xr650l. gently caress a klr, they're poo poo.
Projects: no, don't do that. A enfield or 690/701 if you must. Big bore ktms come stable of horses, but also a stable worth of fragile rear end poo poo that'll die if it sees a mouse. Or in this case, rotella.

A 250 has no problem doing 65. The WR I owned would top out at about 93 and get about 35mpg doing it. Geared down 1 up front. No it's not comfortable, but it's easy to pick up when I drop it from running out of skill.
I mostly huped that thing with a truck if it was more than ~100miles one way. I'd buy another in 2024.

Of the three the hondas have the worst suspension in the kingdom of 250s. Components so cheap they belong on a chinese ebike and filled with cooking oil.
The suspension on the wr and klx are useful enough with a respring/revalve.
The ktm 390 is a disposamotor. Ride it till it pops then go spoon in a honda 300 mill. Laugh till the heat death of the universe with an expensive, slow, reliable, ktm.

The best middleweight ime that doesn't exist is a crf250l with the ptwin from a cb500x. I want to build one with not poo poo-rear end-suspension. The suspension on those really chap my rear end. Or a wr-turbo.

chupacabron
Oct 30, 2004


I've got a 300L Rally and can confirm that it does pretty much what you want. I'm in southern California and the nearest trails mostly involve 30-60 minutes on a freeway. The rally handles it okay but it'll probably depend on your personal definition of safe/comfortable. You do have to get comfortable with getting blown around a lot and not going faster than 70 though. The more aggressive the tires you put on it the worse it'll be too. The stock rubber handled roads surprisingly well, but I just swapped a Pirelli MT21 on to the rear and it's much squirrlier

edit: I should add that replacing the rear shock is almost a must, it's pretty bad unless you weigh like 120 pounds, so that's an additional thing to budget in

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

chupacabron posted:

it'll probably depend on your personal definition of safe

thread title

bizwank
Oct 4, 2002

mCpwnage posted:

Another thing I had been considering is that a lot of the good countryside/forest/mountain areas around here can be made much more accessible by 30mins on I5/90 so ideally a bike would be able to feel safe and comfortable at 65mph in highway traffic.
Or 30-60 minutes on a ferry; lots of great riding to the West too. Plus you never have to wait in line and motorcycles get priority parking right up front so you're first off too.

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


I’m here to drudge up my massive pet peeve. You can safely go ~65 on a highway and you don’t need to be able to “accelerate out of danger”. You can move or slow down. Yes I have ridden on western/southwestern highways where people are going 75-95. In fact, adding speed statistically makes things more fatal. If accelerating is your only exit, you failed in your planning on where you should be placing yourself. People get too reliant on the throttle.

Mr. Wiggles
Dec 1, 2003

We are all drinking from the highball glass of ideology.
I had a CB500 X for a long time and did a LOT of dirt with it. While I loved the bike for what it was, I'll be the first to say it's designed for the dirt second. With enough upgrades it's competent and fun, but by the time you get it there you could have bought a dirt bike and a street bike. For your use case, a DR650 is probably actually the best bet.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

*yawn* DR650, next

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

Russian Bear posted:

I’m here to drudge up my massive pet peeve. You can safely go ~65 on a highway and you don’t need to be able to “accelerate out of danger”. You can move or slow down. Yes I have ridden on western/southwestern highways where people are going 75-95. In fact, adding speed statistically makes things more fatal. If accelerating is your only exit, you failed in your planning on where you should be placing yourself. People get too reliant on the throttle.

People definitely exaggerate how much speed you need to safely use a highway, often to justify a bigger bike purchase. But if you're struggling to hold 65mph that pretty much relegates you to the right-hand lane, which is fine on open road but in urban areas when traffic gets dense and everyone is tailgating it can become an absolute poo poo show with all the cars diving for exits and traffic entering at a dozen different speeds. Last Monday I had the right lane go from 50 to zero so fast that I ended up stopped alongside the car in front of me while the guy behind me slammed on his brakes and aimed for the shoulder, I'm still unclear if he would've hit me had I done a full panic stop instead of aiming for the hole first. The fast lane has higher stakes but there are definitely times when it's the least sketchy option, especially if you're using it to maximize your time between pockets of cars and moving over when you see a maniac or a tailgater catching up. When I'm not on the little bike I usually head straight for the fast lane, not because it's faster but because it's perversely way less hectic.

RightClickSaveAs
Mar 1, 2001

Tiny animals under glass... Smaller than sand...


I've gotten an itch to pick up a cheap mini bike I can use to play around with to get more comfortable with grip and leaning the bike over and dropping a lot in parking lots. I did a school a while back that had Yamaha TT-R125s (I think that's the model) that were a blast to practice with, I've been trying to keep an eye on anything used that pops up but haven't seen much, what else would be good to look for that is meant to fall over a lot? I don't know dirt bikes at all. The ones at the school had street tires but I think you could do a lot of the slow speed practice stuff with dirt tires too?

Found this TT-R125 that seems to have carb issues, not sure if I'm up for fiddling with that but might be a good learning experience, or does that path lead to madness especially for someone who hasn't owned a carbed bike
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/mcy/d/phoenix-2002-yamaha-tt-125l/7692682711.html


Here's professional hooligan Stefano Mesa at the school showing me how easy it should be

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

You'd struggle to do low speed stuff with dirt tyres because they can't lean anywhere near as far, you just fall the gently caress over when you get it up on the edge knobs + you can't really brake and turn at all even with the rear tire

The big skinny front + small wide rear rim combo on dirt bikes is also suboptimal on pavement even with street tyres

Any kind of slow, small dirt bike with sump wheels would do what you want

RightClickSaveAs
Mar 1, 2001

Tiny animals under glass... Smaller than sand...


Ohh makes sense, never been on anything with knobbies I don't think.

Next question, what are sump wheels? Searching just gives me engine oil sump bits.

bizwank
Oct 4, 2002

Pretty sure he meant sumo aka. supermoto

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

You could go the Grom/Z125 route too. I've been having a blast on mine doing parking lot practice and kart track.

RightClickSaveAs
Mar 1, 2001

Tiny animals under glass... Smaller than sand...


bizwank posted:

Pretty sure he meant sumo aka. supermoto
Ah that makes more sense

opengl posted:

You could go the Grom/Z125 route too. I've been having a blast on mine doing parking lot practice and kart track.
How droppable are those? That's definitely an option, and I would love to find one that's already a bit scuffed and hasn't been stretched/farkled/UpGrAded

e: lol the first Z125 I can find on Craigslist has a full exhaust and they added a NOS tank. And knobbed tires. At least they're "only" asking $2400

https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/mcy/d/las-vegas-2020-kawasaki-z125-pro-must/7691852695.html

RightClickSaveAs fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Dec 1, 2023

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Those swingarm extensions never not make me shudder with revulsion

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

RightClickSaveAs posted:

How droppable are those? That's definitely an option, and I would love to find one that's already a bit scuffed and hasn't been stretched/farkled/UpGrAded

I haven't dumped mine yet but I understand they both take to it pretty well. Even without sliders at low speeds I think the only thing that will touch down are the bar ends and maybe the ends of the shift/brake pedals.

There are plenty of crash cages out there for both if you want to drop it all day, since so many people stunt these little bikes.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


opengl posted:

I haven't dumped mine yet but I understand they both take to it pretty well. Even without sliders at low speeds I think the only thing that will touch down are the bar ends and maybe the ends of the shift/brake pedals.

There are plenty of crash cages out there for both if you want to drop it all day, since so many people stunt these little bikes.

Beware though, because breaking off shifters and bar ends is what sets you down the path of the anodized aluminum aftermarket, and once you start down that road, you'll inevitably have a Bilbo Baggins "after all, why shouldn't I" moment, and that's how you end up with the extended swingarm parts catalog monstrosities you've seen posted in other threads.

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


Browsing local Craigslist, found two maybe good deals what do y’all think:

https://tucson.craigslist.org/mcy/d/tucson-2021-dirtbike-klx-300-dual-sport/7687280351.html

Would be fun for some off-roading, but I’m a little in that situation where I have to ride 30-60+ minutes to actually get to any sort of trails and maybe that would suck enough that I never do it.

Or this older BMW that could be a good (if porky) adventure bike:


https://tucson.craigslist.org/mcy/d/vail-ultimate-dual-purpose-like-new-bmw/7689500885.html

Milton
Jan 3, 2005

...but then they switched from the 1911 to the beretta but I kept my 1911 because it didn't bind up as much and I kept the rounds for the 1911...
Help please: I am looking for an around-town runabout. Something that can deal with light errands and is fun to ride on 55mph country roads around me while running those errands. I’d like to be able to get on the freeway, but don’t need to go more than a couple exits.

Previous bike was a tiger 800xrx. Sold it only because I was moving, don’t really motorcycle tour anymore and didn’t need it for commuting any longer.

I like the look of the Honda CRF300LS but there are hardly any to be found. Dealership I dropped by today had a KLX300SM which seemed alright. They also had a DRZ400SM. Both seem like contenders as well. The 400 was right at the edge of too tall so I’d probably want a lower seat. I would also generally consider a zero fxe but I’m worried about getting parts.

I like the 300LS for lower cost, ABS, fuel injection and excellent gas mileage. Should I hold out for one to appear? Or should I spend more for the 400 and commit to at least some mods and accept lower fuel efficiency? Or get the Kawasaki because it’s pretty close to Honda?

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


The klx300, either dual sport or sumo model, has actually good suspension not set up for a 100lb person so that’s the biiiig pro against the Honda 300 which has hilariously soft suspension stock. KLX has all the modern stuff, I think it’ll be perfect for backing it in around town.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Klx no contest

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Russian Bear posted:

The klx300, either dual sport or sumo model, has actually good suspension not set up for a 100lb person so that’s the biiiig pro against the Honda 300 which has hilariously soft suspension stock. KLX has all the modern stuff, I think it’ll be perfect for backing it in around town.

Seconding this. The honda has a klr650 esque monoshock filled with essentially cooking oil. It's as if harbor-freight made bike suspensions.

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Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
The KLX isn't sold in Europe and this makes me sad :(

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