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AKA Pseudonym
May 16, 2004

A dashing and sophisticated young man
Doctor Rope

Branch Nvidian posted:

I'm confused how you think a 3060 is causing a 13700K to be a bottleneck, unless the 13700K is what you've ordered to get around the bottleneck in which case I was asking what CPU/board/RAM you already had so we could make an upgrade recommendation. Build doesn't suck. Recommend getting 6000 MHz CL30 or CL32 memory.

The 13700K is new. Current CPU is a I5-7600K.

Current motherboard is whatever generic HP one came with this thing.

Put in the RTX 3060 and it started causing problems. To fix this, and just generally improve everything, I'm upgrading everything but the GPU (the RTX 3060), HD (Crucial MX 500 2 TB), and power supply (EVGA 650W).

My plan right now is just to put everything together with my current HD and boot it up. Seems like that ought to work, but I've just never upgraded that many components at once, or ever upgraded a motherboard. I'm just wondering if there's anything I should consider before proceeding.

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Rocko Bonaparte
Mar 12, 2002

Every day is Friday!

AKA Pseudonym posted:

I recently upgraded my GPU which bottlenecked my CPU. So now, to upgrade my CPU I need to upgrade my motherboard, and I might as well upgrade my RAM while I'm doing that. So I'll be upgrading three components (Motherboard, CPU, and RAM) all at once. I've never upgraded more than one component at once. Anything I need to consider before I put it all together and power it on?

Assuming you're running Windows, you'll probably invalidate your license when you upgrade the motherboard. I think if it's an OEM license then it's tied directly to it, and if it's not, the combination of all the devices changing from replacing the motherboard could still trip it.

Sanitary Naptime
May 29, 2006

MIWK!


I’m currently sat with a 2700x on a b450 elite v2 board which can’t handle anything better than 3200 mhz ddr4 (and even then it was a loving struggle getting it to run at that speed).

I’m probably a ways off being able to afford any decent proper upgrade that’ll replace the motherboard, ram and cpu - probably at least another year - is there any appreciable jump in performance I’d really get from upgrading the 2700x on that motherboard or should I just wait off until I’m in a position to replace the motherboard and have a crisis over AMD vs Intel?

bawfuls
Oct 28, 2009

After pulling the trigger on a system upgrade this weekend for the first time in probably 8 years, now I'm contemplating replacing this 16 year old case with something a little prettier.

I'd love something like the Fractal Design North, but it's too tall for my space. Their Terra is also very nice but I just bought an mATX board and it only accepts mITX.

Are there other cases with that vaguely mid-century aesthetic that might fit the bill? This isn't an urgent need so maybe Fractal Design will come out with another one in between those two aimed at mATX next year or something.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Sanitary Naptime posted:

I’m currently sat with a 2700x on a b450 elite v2 board which can’t handle anything better than 3200 mhz ddr4 (and even then it was a loving struggle getting it to run at that speed).

I’m probably a ways off being able to afford any decent proper upgrade that’ll replace the motherboard, ram and cpu - probably at least another year - is there any appreciable jump in performance I’d really get from upgrading the 2700x on that motherboard or should I just wait off until I’m in a position to replace the motherboard and have a crisis over AMD vs Intel?

Check the BIOS versions, but that motherboard should be capable of running the 5000 series chips, which would be massive upgrades. Particularly if you can find a 5800x3d or 5600x3d. Enough of a performance jump that you should be able to put off upgrading the motherboard and RAM for another 2-3 years.

e: with that said, RAM is pretty darn cheap right now, so if you don't have but want to upgrade to 32 GB of RAM, now is as good a time as any!

Kibner fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Nov 26, 2023

Kintamarama
Oct 3, 2013

Sanitary Naptime posted:

I’m currently sat with a 2700x on a b450 elite v2 board which can’t handle anything better than 3200 mhz ddr4 (and even then it was a loving struggle getting it to run at that speed).

I’m probably a ways off being able to afford any decent proper upgrade that’ll replace the motherboard, ram and cpu - probably at least another year - is there any appreciable jump in performance I’d really get from upgrading the 2700x on that motherboard or should I just wait off until I’m in a position to replace the motherboard and have a crisis over AMD vs Intel?

I'm pretty sure the memory controller in on the CPU itself. Is the kit you have supposed to run over 3200Mhz? If so, upgrading to a 5000 series Ryzen would probably sort that out.

Branch Nvidian
Nov 29, 2012



bawfuls posted:

After pulling the trigger on a system upgrade this weekend for the first time in probably 8 years, now I'm contemplating replacing this 16 year old case with something a little prettier.

I'd love something like the Fractal Design North, but it's too tall for my space. Their Terra is also very nice but I just bought an mATX board and it only accepts mITX.

Are there other cases with that vaguely mid-century aesthetic that might fit the bill? This isn't an urgent need so maybe Fractal Design will come out with another one in between those two aimed at mATX next year or something.

There is a wood front panel for the Corsair 4000D Airflow that you can get on Drop.com https://drop.com/buy/corsair-4000-series-wooden-pc-case-front-panel?searchId=997b1df2acfe8ef14a98b576d0dcf52a
Though I'm not sure off hand how much smaller the 4000D is than the Fractal North, if at all.

bawfuls
Oct 28, 2009

Branch Nvidian posted:

There is a wood front panel for the Corsair 4000D Airflow that you can get on Drop.com https://drop.com/buy/corsair-4000-series-wooden-pc-case-front-panel?searchId=997b1df2acfe8ef14a98b576d0dcf52a
Though I'm not sure off hand how much smaller the 4000D is than the Fractal North, if at all.
Looks like it’s a bit over 18” tall just like the North. I’ll have to keep an eye out for new stuff I suppose.

SpaceDrake
Dec 22, 2006

I can't avoid filling a game with awful memes, even if I want to. It's in my bones...!
Meanwhile, Game Jesus has his 2023 CPU cooler roundup posted. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ow0crBSKIXw

TLDR: The Peerless Assassin cleans up, the NH-P1 passive cooler is amazing for its niche, and the DeepCool Assassin IV is nifty, but I'm not sure it'd get a thread recommendation due to its price.

Sanitary Naptime
May 29, 2006

MIWK!


Kibner posted:

Check the BIOS versions, but that motherboard should be capable of running the 5000 series chips, which would be massive upgrades. Particularly if you can find a 5800x3d or 5600x3d. Enough of a performance jump that you should be able to put off upgrading the motherboard and RAM for another 2-3 years.

e: with that said, RAM is pretty darn cheap right now, so if you don't have but want to upgrade to 32 GB of RAM, now is as good a time as any!

Thanks for the suggestions! I can see the 5800x3d is on the supported list for the motherboard so I’ll keep an eye out for that!

Kintamarama posted:

I'm pretty sure the memory controller in on the CPU itself. Is the kit you have supposed to run over 3200Mhz? If so, upgrading to a 5000 series Ryzen would probably sort that out.

The current ram I have is rated for 3200, and says as much on the motherboard qvl (because I learned that lesson after the first set I bought wasn’t on the qvl :gibs: ) but it still only runs at that speed with adjustments in the bios (and honestly I had enough problems with that, that if I go to turn it on just now and see it’s been booted down to 2333 at some point i wouldn’t be surprised, the XMP settings never played nicely with it)

If it turns out to just be down to the ram not getting on with the 2700x then I’d be v happy upgrading just that for now.

Twerk from Home
Jan 17, 2009

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

SpaceDrake posted:

Meanwhile, Game Jesus has his 2023 CPU cooler roundup posted. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ow0crBSKIXw

TLDR: The Peerless Assassin cleans up, the NH-P1 passive cooler is amazing for its niche, and the DeepCool Assassin IV is nifty, but I'm not sure it'd get a thread recommendation due to its price.

I am the kind of weirdo who should be very interested in the NH-P1, it's still difficult to do an entire system fanless now that SSDs of all things are hot as hell and need airflow. DDR5 at high clocks is hot too. What kind of system would use an NH-P1 well? Some case where you've got a giant slow fan moving air gently through the whole case? What's the biggest fan in a widely available case?

Branch Nvidian
Nov 29, 2012



Twerk from Home posted:

I am the kind of weirdo who should be very interested in the NH-P1, it's still difficult to do an entire system fanless now that SSDs of all things are hot as hell and need airflow. DDR5 at high clocks is hot too. What kind of system would use an NH-P1 well? Some case where you've got a giant slow fan moving air gently through the whole case? What's the biggest fan in a widely available case?

180mm or 200mm on some Fractal, Thermaltake, and Cooler Master cases. There is also the Streacom DB4 for the true :sickos: https://streacom.com/products/db4-fanless-mini-itx-case/

WattsvilleBlues
Jan 25, 2005

Every demon wants his pound of flesh
Maybe not the correct thread but I got a USB fingerprint sensor for my desktop PC. The front panel USB port detects it no problem but in Device Manager it says the sensor couldn't be started, or words to that effect.

Plugging it into a rear I/O port works, and it works as expected on my ancient laptop. I uninstalled it several times and downloaded the drivers but I keep getting the same error. The front USB port works for all my flash drives so I'm baffled as to what's affecting it.

Any ideas?

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Welp, I hadn't planned on upgrading yet, but I guess it is time. 7800X3D on the way. Hate how hard it is to find a decent motherboard that has optical out.

power crystals
Jun 6, 2007

Who wants a belly rub??


My guess is either some really weird USB version conflict, or the front panel isn't supplying enough power, but both of those shouldn't ever happen. If you have a hub and put it between the front panel and the device, does it work? What motherboard? And are the front panel ports USB 2 or 3?

Branch Nvidian
Nov 29, 2012



Wibla posted:

Welp, I hadn't planned on upgrading yet, but I guess it is time. 7800X3D on the way. Hate how hard it is to find a decent motherboard that has optical out.

SalTheBard posted:

This is probably super niche, but are there any B650 boards with spdif on it? I have a soundbar that I use for computer speakers that connects via digital, I'm only seeing spdif connectors on X670E boards, I'm not opposed to getting a X670E board, but if I can get a B650 board with a digital audio out connector I would be interested.

Branch Nvidian posted:

Assuming you mean TOSLINK/Optical then ASRock B650 LiveMixer, B650E Taichi, B650E Taichi Lite, B650E Steel Legend, ASUS ProArt B650 Creator, Gigabyte B650M AORUS Elite AX, B650M AORUS Elite (Rev. 1.3), and B650M AORUS ELITE AX (rev. 1.2) all have one. Probably others I didn't look at have them too.

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

ASRock B650 Live Mixer. The colors may be garish, but it has a great set of features for the price. There's also the B650E Steel Legend and Taichi Light from ASRock, but they cost over $200.

Or there's the Gigabyte B650 Aero G for $160, which is another great deal and comes in a much more neutral white/silver colorway.

edit: wasn't aware those gigabyte mATX boards come with SPIDF. The full ATX versions don't, so that's weird. The Aero G is the clear best value from Gigabyte anyway.

Badger of Basra
Jul 26, 2007

Is there a difference between the peerless assassin and the peerless assassin SE?

Branch Nvidian
Nov 29, 2012



Badger of Basra posted:

Is there a difference between the peerless assassin and the peerless assassin SE?

I think the SE is a second edition or a revision but GN reviewed the non-SE and gave it high marks. The SE, from everything else I've seen, does just as well as the non-SE, so get whichever one is available or cheaper.

SpaceDrake
Dec 22, 2006

I can't avoid filling a game with awful memes, even if I want to. It's in my bones...!

Wibla posted:

Welp, I hadn't planned on upgrading yet, but I guess it is time. 7800X3D on the way. Hate how hard it is to find a decent motherboard that has optical out.

I would recommend the ASRock B650 LiveMixer, but all the negative reviews and the weirdly long-lasting big discount really makes you suspicious about the quality of that board. Weird, since the Intel-based LiveMixer seems really well-received and the other ASRock B650 boards have reviewed well, both with fans and reviewers. The Taichi Lite might be your speed? :shrug: https://www.newegg.com/asrock-b650e-taichi-lite/p/13-162-135 Still a good $250, though.



Speaking of "welp, the time has come", though. (:words: incoming.) Yesterday after much hemming and hawing, and worried that the Monday rush would obliterate stock everywhere, I finally made a decision and committed. And I sort of didn't follow my own advice.

I gave in, and I chased the shiny, only kind-of discounted processor. :negative:



Now, I also did this because, after a week of trying to finagle it into doing something decent, the Newegg Amazing Combo Deal Maker actually spit this out, making a combo of the B650M Pro RS, the 7800X3D, and that G.Skill RAM kit that has 30-38-38-96 timings, tested compatibility with the mobo on G.Skill's side and an EXPO profile built in. The effect of the combo price reduction was to make that kit essentially $80. Given how quickly RAM kits are getting backordered otherwise and how well-regarded the kit seems to be, that was enough of a deal to get me to commit. With the 7800 price not seeming likely to come down much, graphics cards not budging much on BFriday and the Pro RG having been discounted for a while and with a feature set I want, I ended up finishing off buying my full rebuild, which is either already here on en route.

THE FINAL REBUILD BUTCHER'S BILL:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($358.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B650M Pro RS WiFi Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($80.00 @ Newegg Amazing Combo Deal, Wowzers)
Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($88.99 @ Amazon that's taking a week+ to arrive)
Video Card: Zotac Twin Edge GeForce RTX 4070 12 GB Video Card ($514.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Pop Mini Air MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($89.97 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM750e (2023) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($96.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Retail - Download 64-bit ($20.00 @ Le Goone Shoppe)
Total: $1408.81

Not included here but included in the PCPP list (for wattage tracking and wiring checks) are the existing Blu-ray drive, WD Black 1TB SSD and 2TB spinning rust drive I plan to bring over from the current PC.

So I did manage to get under my $1500 target by a bit less than $100, though I'm still feeling a little bit of :negative: for picking the 7800X3D over the actually absurd deal that is the 12700KF right now. Ultimately, I was swayed by the rock-solid frametimes I saw presented in some games (like Elden Ring) and reports that the VCache allows for glass-smooth gameplay even in crowded FF14 environments, as well as the lure of a cheap life-extending upgrade to the 11800X3D or whatever the final part ends up being, in five to six years when that part is heavily discounted. (Planning on going DDR5 in any event also helped.) I managed some pretty decent discounts elsewhere, so ultimately I feel fairly good about what I've got coming, even if the deal-seeking part of my brain is spamming the negative man emote.

Anyway, thanks for putting up with my posting nonsense and providing good guidance, thread. :unsmith: Everything's still in the return window, so if anything seems terribly out of sorts, let me know.

(And yes, I now fully expect the monkey's paw to curl and for everything to go on steep discount in eight hours. You're welcome.)

Rocko Bonaparte
Mar 12, 2002

Every day is Friday!
I wouldn't worry about a super hot deals on computer components for Cyber Monday anymore. Now, if you were talking about air fryers, then they'll be WILD!

SpaceDrake
Dec 22, 2006

I can't avoid filling a game with awful memes, even if I want to. It's in my bones...!

Badger of Basra posted:

Is there a difference between the peerless assassin and the peerless assassin SE?

Nvidian was quick on the reply, but the Peerless Assassin, the PE SE, and the Phantom Spirit/PS SE are all basically the same thing. The Phantom Spirit has an additional heat pipe going up the fin stack, and the SE models have the pipe end caps protruding up past the stack a bit instead of fully capped off (thus I think they're a little shorter overall?), but they all do the same thing and perform roughly similarly to one another. Just pick whichever one has the best price/fastest delivery/most availability in your region.

Rocko Bonaparte posted:

I wouldn't worry about a super hot deals on computer components for Cyber Monday anymore. Now, if you were talking about air fryers, then they'll be WILD!

Yeah, the ~deals~ on the days themselves have been pretty anemic so far. I'm really not expecting much on Monday itself at this point, not with stock already shifting at the rate it is.

I can feel the monkey's paw curling.

Rocko Bonaparte
Mar 12, 2002

Every day is Friday!

SpaceDrake posted:

Yeah, the ~deals~ on the days themselves have been pretty anemic so far. I'm really not expecting much on Monday itself at this point, not with stock already shifting at the rate it is.

I can feel the monkey's paw curling.

It looks like I can't even use my employee discount on some stuff right now so I have little reason to even be looking into everything but a new video card right now. So chances are that I'll be asking you about cases in a year again hahaha. I'm still watching through to see if the Nvidia Super cards have any affect on GPU prices, but I'm not immediately being bogged down by this computer despite my RX 480 being obsolete, and am now more worried that something in it will just fail and require I build something new.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

SpaceDrake posted:

I would recommend the ASRock B650 LiveMixer, but all the negative reviews and the weirdly long-lasting big discount really makes you suspicious about the quality of that board. Weird, since the Intel-based LiveMixer seems really well-received and the other ASRock B650 boards have reviewed well, both with fans and reviewers. The Taichi Lite might be your speed? :shrug: https://www.newegg.com/asrock-b650e-taichi-lite/p/13-162-135 Still a good $250, though.

I wound up with the MSI PRO X670-P WiFi. It has a reasonable pci layout (I have a 10 gig card in my pc) and spdif. gently caress all USB ports though.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

SpaceDrake posted:

I would recommend the ASRock B650 LiveMixer, but all the negative reviews and the weirdly long-lasting big discount really makes you suspicious about the quality of that board. Weird, since the Intel-based LiveMixer seems really well-received and the other ASRock B650 boards have reviewed well, both with fans and reviewers.

It's not really all that weird. User reviews are extremely unreliable. Looking at the negative reviews on newegg, it's just the typical stuff that could be anything, and I doubt there's a higher failure rate on that specific board than the other asrock b650 boards (or their intel ones)

WattsvilleBlues
Jan 25, 2005

Every demon wants his pound of flesh

power crystals posted:

My guess is either some really weird USB version conflict, or the front panel isn't supplying enough power, but both of those shouldn't ever happen. If you have a hub and put it between the front panel and the device, does it work? What motherboard? And are the front panel ports USB 2 or 3?

USB 3, case is a be quiet 500dx with an MSI B550-A Pro motherboard with the latest BIOS. I don't have a USB hub unfortunately.

The only software thing I can think of is that I'm stuck on a Windows 11 insider channel that I thought I'd opted out of in time after 23H2 was released. Thinking out loud here, I'll dual boot with a release channel Windows 11 install and see if it's some software issue.

The laptop runs Windows 10 much better than the cheeky TPM-less Windows 11 install so I wonder if it's something that Windows 11 just doesn't like. It's probably the USB port, only one way to find out.

SalTheBard
Jan 26, 2005

I forgot to post my food for USPOL Thanksgiving but that's okay too!

Fallen Rib

Wibla posted:

Welp, I hadn't planned on upgrading yet, but I guess it is time. 7800X3D on the way. Hate how hard it is to find a decent motherboard that has optical out.

Huge problem for me too. The MSI b650 tomahawk is a great choice, the MSI B650 carbon is what I ended up with

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

SalTheBard posted:

Huge problem for me too. The MSI b650 tomahawk is a great choice, the MSI B650 carbon is what I ended up with

Both of those would have been fine - except I have a 10 gig card in my PC as well, so I need a >1x slot at the bottom of the motherboard. The PRO X670-P WIFI I wound up buying only has a 2x electrical slot there, but that should work well enough.

Branch Nvidian
Nov 29, 2012




:toot: enjoy your new PC, don't worry too much about whether you got the mega deal on a 1.25 generation old processor, :justpost:

Tom Tucker
Jul 19, 2003

I want to warn you fellers
And tell you one by one
What makes a gallows rope to swing
A woman and a gun

I think I might be due for an upgrade. Is my experience getting throttled by my RX 570 and / or my i5-6600k / motherboard at this point? Been quite a few years since I switched to these and they were already a year or so behind when I got them.

If I upgrade these would I be held back by my monitor at all? I've got a Dell P2419HC - LED Monitor 24". Should I then invest in something more designed for gaming?

Appreciate any thoughts! May try to get holiday deals on these.

Twerk from Home
Jan 17, 2009

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.

Tom Tucker posted:

I think I might be due for an upgrade. Is my experience getting throttled by my RX 570 and / or my i5-6600k / motherboard at this point? Been quite a few years since I switched to these and they were already a year or so behind when I got them.

If I upgrade these would I be held back by my monitor at all? I've got a Dell P2419HC - LED Monitor 24". Should I then invest in something more designed for gaming?

Appreciate any thoughts! May try to get holiday deals on these.

What resolution are you playing at, and what games? I'd get a GPU first and then see if that meets your needs or you want to refresh the rest too.

Best value GPUs right now are the RX 6700 XT at $299, or the RX 6600 / 7600 at under $240.

If you really want Nvidia, the 4060 at $299 and 4070 at $550 are fine.

Tom Tucker
Jul 19, 2003

I want to warn you fellers
And tell you one by one
What makes a gallows rope to swing
A woman and a gun

Twerk from Home posted:

What resolution are you playing at, and what games? I'd get a GPU first and then see if that meets your needs or you want to refresh the rest too.

Best value GPUs right now are the RX 6700 XT at $299, or the RX 6600 / 7600 at under $240.

If you really want Nvidia, the 4060 at $299 and 4070 at $550 are fine.

Not crazy resolutions I think just 1080, but I don't put much thought into it. For example I know Jedi Survivor was poorly optimized but I tried downloading that and playing and my computer just couldn't cut it, so I'd like to play a current-gen game at good settings. At the same time I'm really not sure whether I'd notice a step change in resolution, but having not really tried it I can't say!

DoombatINC
Apr 20, 2003

Here's the thing, I'm a feminist.





You might just wanna drop a 6650 XT or 7600 in your current box for a little more than $200 bucks and see how it goes, or you might want a total rebuild including a nicer monitor. The games you're interested in, your performance expectations and your overall budget would help some here.

edit: just saw the follow-up post, you might wanna consider a total rebuild sooner rather than later if you've got the budget but you might wanna start with just a $200-300 GPU drop-in upgrade to start

edit2: that inspired me to check and the Powercolor Hellhound 6650 XT is still in stock at $220, for people looking for affordable 1080p cards

DoombatINC fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Nov 27, 2023

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



I got a Black Friday 4 tb nvme gen 4. Is there any advantage or reason to reinstall windows to it or is it the same just to keep windows on my gen3 1 tb 970 pro and throw the new drive in the third and last m.2 slot I have left open

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
ASK ME ABOUT HOW HUMAN LIVES THAT MADE VIDEO GAME CONTROLLERS ARE WORTH MORE
Lipstick Apathy

ethanol posted:

I got a Black Friday 4 tb nvme gen 4. Is there any advantage or reason to reinstall windows to it or is it the same just to keep windows on my gen3 1 tb 970 pro and throw the new drive in the third and last m.2 slot I have left open

You could clone the old drive over to it (they often come with a free OEM copy of Acronis True Image or something like it to do so) and see if it is any improvement. It might slightly speed up reboot times. By leaving the cloned C:/Windows on there, you would have a second option to boot the PC if the first drive ever dies on you or gets some kind of file corruption/virus that prevents it from booting. My Windows 11 C:/Windows is 34GB so you're talking less than 1% of the 4TB drive to have a failsafe. Just make sure to change the desktop background so you notice if the BIOS ever boots off the wrong drive for some reason.

Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Nov 27, 2023

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



No need for me to clone or back up this pc ever. The pc is for gaming and basically just stores video games…in the random occurrence a drive might fail I just reinstall fresh. Any important stuff like documents I typically just keep on a different device or occasionally toss a copy of my docs on a different drive manually

But if there’s some improvement to windows I’ll put the system drive on the 4 tb. Even though it does feel against instinct to install to the largest drive there are I can’t figure any real concerns against that except for backing up

Edit: I’m just lazy and don’t want to bother moving the system drive if there’s no point
Edit2: I put this build together a few weeks ago if anybody has questions or is thinking about something similar. I didn't ask any questions here. there seems to be a lot of corsair in it.

CPU: 7800x3D ($399)
Cooler: Corsair H100i elite capellix XT ($154.99)
Motherboard: MSI Mag Tomahawk B650 ($219.99)
GPU: Gigabyte 4090 ($1,699)
RAM: 32 GB DDR5 Corsair (C40 because it's what they had on a bestbuy giftcard) ($104.99)
PSU: Corsair rm850x ($139.99, from old pc, seems to work just fine despite the 4090 claiming it needs 1000w)
Case: Corsair 4000D ($94.99, from old pc)
SSD: 1x SN850X ($220), 2x 970 pro (from old pc)
Total: ~$3030

ethanol fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Nov 27, 2023

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

There may be some minor improvement in specific areas, but in practical terms, you're unlikely to notice any real difference if your current drive is a 970 Pro. Maybe if you had a low-end Gen 3 drive, but the 970 Pro is one of the best on the market.

SpaceDrake
Dec 22, 2006

I can't avoid filling a game with awful memes, even if I want to. It's in my bones...!

Branch Nvidian posted:

:toot: enjoy your new PC, don't worry too much about whether you got the mega deal on a 1.25 generation old processor, :justpost:

Oh, I hardly need to be told to :justpost:. :v: But thank you!

Edit: Also, I've been getting some thumbdrives ready with a windows 11 install and with various tools, utilities and various things and essentials from the current machine I want to transfer over, and by "essentials" I mean that we run a comprehensive ship over here at the Casa Del SpaceDrake:



Tom Tucker posted:

I think I might be due for an upgrade. Is my experience getting throttled by my RX 570 and / or my i5-6600k / motherboard at this point? Been quite a few years since I switched to these and they were already a year or so behind when I got them.

If I upgrade these would I be held back by my monitor at all? I've got a Dell P2419HC - LED Monitor 24". Should I then invest in something more designed for gaming?

Appreciate any thoughts! May try to get holiday deals on these.

So, you are effectively in the same boat I currently am spec-wise, and the answer to that question is largely "yes". Your GPU was a 2017 budget model that is roughly equivalent in power to a Geforce GTX 970 (what I use right now), a decently high-range card from 2014. Your processor is a 2015 model that is overclockable, so you could fiddle with that a bit, but it's fundamentally a non-hyperthreaded model that was an iterative improvement on the 2011 Sandy Bridge" Core 2000 series. Those processors were good for an actual dog's age, but as we enter 2024, their time has officially Passed.

If you try to run something like Jedi Survivor, or Starfield (the one that got me), or Cyberpunk Phantom Liberty, or Baldur's Gate 3, or whatever else have you, essentially everything is going to throttle you sooner than later. While you can do a drop-in upgrade of a 6650XT and that alone will feel like a huge boost (it will double your VRAM capacity and effectively double or more your graphics processing ability) all your other components are going to create noticeable bottlenecks soon after, especially with a processor that lacks hyperthreading (which is now a bog-standard feature on 99% of processors released in the last 3-4 years). With your system core being about eight years old, it's time to consider a full system rebuild.

I agree with Doombat and Twerk in that the Hellhound 6650XT is probably your best immediate option if you want improved performance right now, but that money might be better used as the seed of a comprehensive rebuild if you begin saving/budgeting now and plan for a more full-throated GPU that will go along with the new build. That part's up to you and your needs, though.

SpaceDrake fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Nov 27, 2023

Tom Tucker
Jul 19, 2003

I want to warn you fellers
And tell you one by one
What makes a gallows rope to swing
A woman and a gun

Thanks a bunch folks! I think I may just do a rebuild and repurpose my current rig as a shared computer as my kid is getting towards homework age. I know the OP is a bit out of date but I imagine I can go back through the thread and find some good recommendations for a new build over the past few pages, but anything anyone wants to seriously recommend in the $1500 or $2000 range (or $2500 if it will save me a rebuild down the line) is of course welcome.

Thanks again!

bawfuls
Oct 28, 2009

If I plug my current Windows 10 system SSD into the new system I'm about to assemble (different CPU/mobo/RAM, same GPU) what will happen? Will Windows boot and tell me to pay for a fresh key? Will it force a reinstall or a Windows 11 upgrade? Do I need to make a fresh boot disk on a flash drive beforehand?

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Branch Nvidian
Nov 29, 2012



So, since people have made their Black Friday/Cyber Monday parts purchases and some people will likely be doing fresh Windows 11 installs, now is probably a good time to inform everyone about the forced Microsoft Account business when installing Windows 11 22H2 or newer and how to get around it.

When going through the installation process leave your Ethernet cable unplugged, you'll reach a point where it asks you to connect to a network or plug in your Ethernet. If you do this and continue it require that you sign in with a Microsoft account, or create one, without the option to create a local user account. Continuing with logging in with or creating the Microsoft account at this point will turn all of your local folders into cloud-based OneDrive folders, which you will then have to pay to increase storage on if you exceed the paltry storage amount they give to you for "free." The way around this is when prompted to connect to a network via WiFi or insert your Ethernet cable press:

quote:

Shift+F10

This will open up a command prompt, in that command prompt type:

quote:

OOBE\BYPASSNRO

Press enter.

This will cause the computer to reboot and begin the account set up procedure again where you'll select your region, keyboard layout, and when you get to the page about connecting to the internet you can click "I don't have internet," to create a local user account. Once this local user account is set up, if you have a digital license you need to tie to your system, or you otherwise just want a Microsoft Account, you can then go into Settings > Accounts and then sign in there. This will prevent Windows from turning your Desktop/Documents/Downloads/Pictures/Music/Videos folders into OneDrive stored folders.

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