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spectralent posted:That in mind: Is there a visible difference between voltiguers and line infantry, or are both equipped the same and differ in tactics and deployment? In the BRIEFEST of terms* Voltigeurs had yellow trim:  * Napoleonic uniforms are staggeringly complex; every time you make a statement like "French Voltigeurs had yellow on their shakos" you'll find a dozen exceptions, like units that had yellow and green plumes, or didn't use the trim, or had their shakos replaced in 1809, etc, etc. Uniforms changed constantly, different regiments had different uniforms, you name it. Because there are so many exceptions it's nearly impossible to make one-size-fits-all figures. Instead I find it's best to pick a very specific and narrow example that you have good references for and model that. For example, my Russians are the 3rd Division (Konovitsin), part of Tutchkov's Corps as they appeared at Leipzig. I picked this because I've got couple of good references that I can copy to figure out what colors and insignia they wore. If you have a specific army/battle in mind I can probably recommend references. Waterloo is particularly well documented; if you want to spend some time looking through an excellent resource on uniforms look here: https://centjours.mont-saint-jean.com/index.php
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Nov 30, 2023 20:52
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ChubbyChecker posted:could you post what the 15 minutes minis look like up close and at gaming distance, i'd be very interested in seeing them So these ones are actually 12mm but a lot of the principles are the same:    I had to use the light box since I don't have an actual table set up in my house at the moment, but I hope it illustrates what you're looking for. I do these guys in batches of about 15-20 and it takes a few hours including drying times.
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Dec 1, 2023 03:31
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spectralent posted:I've ended up picking up some napoleonic figures because of black friday deals. I've never really had much previous interest in the period from a historical point of view, but I'm interested in it's gaming opportunities, so I really should stress: I know gently caress all about the uniforms and stuff. Welcome to Napoleonics, and to the best Napoleonic army! Adding to cessna's points, the big thing you need to look out for is that voltigeurs also (usually) carried a small sabre, called a briquet. They would also have the shoulder pads with frills (epaulettes). Their cartouche box would have a hunting horn on it (which is moulded on some kits). Finally, they would have different plumes (either tall plumes earlier on or "pineapple" looking ones later with a ball with a small tuft on tip. So if you have a plastic kit, there are a few things to look out for: Check that you choose a body with two straps crossing the body. Fusiliers would have only a single strap, holding the cartouche box, while volitgeurs would have two, one for the cartouche box and one for the sabre. Check that you choose arms with epaulettes on them. Fusiliers would not have them. Check if the cartouche box has a moulded on button. Typicallly, the voltigeurs would be a horn, voltigeurs a N, and grenadiers, well, a grenade. Check the shako. Is there a round ball on it? Then it's for a fusilier. Is there a tall plume or a round ball with a tuft on it? Then you're probably safe. As for tactics, and assuming we're looking at the second half or so of the Napoleonics war. Voltigeurs existed in both the line and light infantry. Each battallion would, after the post-Austerlitz reforms, switch to a six company structure, where each company was on paper 140 men. So you'd have about 800 men in a battalion, divided in six companies. The 140 biggest toughest veterans formed one flank company, the grenadiers (or carabiniers in light infantry). Their role was to both anchor the batallion and keep the rest from fleeing, but also to be the battering ram during assaults. The 140 veterans smallest, nimblest and best shots formed the other flank company, the voltigeurs. They were the skirmish specialists, tasked with forming a screen to cover the batallion, to keep enemy troops under pressure at long range, and other such duties. Typically a third of the voltigeur company would be out skirmishing, with the rest standing in the line with the other companies. This so that they could rotate the skirmishers, as skirmish duty was very tiring, dangerous and quickly ate up the mens' ammunition. With that said, one thing that made the French army so different (and one of the reasons for their success) early on was that EVERYONE could skirmish to a certain degree. The whole batallion could be dispersed into a cloud of skirmishers, which armies of the time was not prepared for. This tactic got less and less used as the quality of the troops declined and the French battle tactics changed. Voltigeurs could also be assigned to completely independent actions, such as raiding across a river or doing an ambush, where their skills at independent action and initiative was important. For example, in the campaigns on the Danube, you'd regularly hear of a few dozen or more voltigeurs crossing the rivers with boats to sabotage, surprise or scout out positions. The difference between light (legere) infantry and line (ligne) infantry was initially that the light infantry was expected to be a bit tougher and better trained, and more often were supposed to lead assaults. The quality difference between the types generally decreased over the period, to where it was more or less just the same at the end. If you just think of it as them as an excuse to paint very slightly different uniforms, you're not far off. So a typical 28mm wargaming batallion in a lot of games, from 1807 or so and later (don't have the exact date in my brain), would have both voltigeurs standing with the rest of the minis in line and a handful of voltigeurs that are operating ahead of the battalion. In some games, and at smaller scales, they skirmishers are abstracted completely. And as Cessna mentions, it helps to choose a specific part of the period you like, either a campaign you find interesting or a specific uniform. My 28mm French are loosely based on the 1st corps in 1812, marching into Russia. But I have a bunch of uniforms that are wrong (did you know that the Perry "1812-1815" box is WRONG for 1812? Neither did I when I started! :P). But typically, nobody will ever care about the level of detail of your army more than you. And most non-French players will not know enough to differentiate a 1809 chasseur from a 1813 chasseur. And even then, a lot of uniforms were "wrong" in that it took time for implementation of new regulations, old stocks were used up before switching, etc. A significant part of the army at Waterloo would have completely outdated uniforms, so mixing and matching a bit, within reason, is probably even more historically correct than slavishly sticking to what the reforms would say for that specific year. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Dec 1, 2023 |
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Dec 1, 2023 09:28
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All I know is that from watching the historical documentary series Sharpe, the Voltigeurs were nowhere near as effective skirmishers as the rifle regiments
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Dec 1, 2023 09:46
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Personally I’m on a crusade for french military units called “légère” to stop being translated as “light.” The connotation is completely different from english. There’s no armaments sacrificed for speed or mobility or anything. The connotation is that they are skilled in forward scouting and skirmishing missions, can move faster and harder than average even in rough terrain, without sacrificing size or firepower like an english “light” unit would. That’s why they’re generally considered elite. See: the 1 and 2 Mechanized Light Divisions of WW2 crashing into two panzer divisions in the woods of Belgium, and winning. This rant brought to you by my undying love for the Somua 35, prettiest tank, and french, prettiest language
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Dec 1, 2023 10:14
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Edgar Allen Ho posted:Personally I’m on a crusade for french military units called “légère” to stop being translated as “light.” I understand your point but it is slightly less relevant for Napoleonics, I think. At least to some degree. After all, the British "light" companies attached to battalions were also not sacrificing anything when it comes to gear or armament to be faster, while the difference might have been bigger when fighting as an entire light division, though I'm not that well read into it. So yeah the correct thing is to just call them "legere" but the word literally means light. So you could get into a slippery slope where a lot of terms are not 100% correct to translate. But I agree, legere also sounds cooler. And I think there's a danger in coupling "legere = elite", especially later on, as most sources I've read seems to agree that they were not really all that different on the battlefield, at least later on. With that said, I believe that the distinction between light and line might also have been the least important in the 19th century, where they kind of blur into each other in both equipment and training. It seems to me that there was a bigger difference before (where skirmishing was an odd thing that special people did) and WW1-WW2 (when everyone skirmish but infantry regiments start to get heavier equipment, and there's actually a difference in tactics between light and line troops again). lilljonas fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Dec 1, 2023 |
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Dec 1, 2023 10:36
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SpaceViking posted:So these ones are actually 12mm but a lot of the principles are the same: it does, thank you. and they look great!
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Dec 1, 2023 11:03
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NTRabbit posted:All I know is that from watching the historical documentary series Sharpe, the Voltigeurs were nowhere near as effective skirmishers as the rifle regiments lmao same, I'm doing an AWI project as an xmas gift for my in-law and I'm watching the Patriot and Turn for visual inspiration because goddamn figuring out who looked like what in this ragtag army of terrorists is such a pain in the rear end. Also I don't give a gently caress if they played a minor role, I'm painting cavalry.
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Dec 1, 2023 13:31
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Springfield Fatts posted:lmao same, I'm doing an AWI project as an xmas gift for my in-law and I'm watching the Patriot and Turn for visual inspiration because goddamn figuring out who looked like what in this ragtag army of terrorists is such a pain in the rear end. Also I don't give a gently caress if they played a minor role, I'm painting cavalry. I can give you a whole bunch of information if there are units you want to know about. The Patriot is fine for material culture, but Turn is total rear end and shouldn't be used for anything.
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Dec 1, 2023 15:36
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lilljonas posted:My 28mm French are loosely based on the 1st corps in 1812, marching into Russia. I want to put my Russians against your French - somehow.
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Dec 1, 2023 19:32
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Cessna posted:I want to put my Russians against your French - somehow. It'd be awesome but I'm already at the point where it's starting to be a logistical nightmare to move mine, even just across town.The disadvantage of 28mm, especially metals. I haven't painted a napoleonic mini in all of 2023. I need to correct this horrible faux pas in next year. I feel like Davout is looking down at me, going "tsk tsk".
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Dec 1, 2023 23:19
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Edgar Allen Ho posted:Personally I’m on a crusade for french military units called “légère” to stop being translated as “light.” This was really informative, but that tank looks like someone dressed a Sherman up to look like a Char-B.
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Dec 2, 2023 02:37
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Thanks for both of these, guys! It's for sharp practice and notionally pensinsular purely based on Sharpe being the only piece of genre media I really have familiarity with - I'm not sure if that's a good or bad thing for the uniforms.
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Dec 2, 2023 08:00
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I watched napoleon recently and now I think I'd like to play a wargame of the napoleonic wars. from my understanding this is one of the most well covered topics in wargaming history. However this makes entering somewhat intimidating, and I figure who better to ask than goons? I'm looking for a system(preferablly 6mm or smaller) that can be played with "budget-oriented" figures of the napoleonic era. I have some wargame experience(40K) but never a historical wargame. Where should I start my research?
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Dec 2, 2023 21:17
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LurchinTard posted:I watched napoleon recently and now I think I'd like to play a wargame of the napoleonic wars. from my understanding this is one of the most well covered topics in wargaming history. However this makes entering somewhat intimidating, and I figure who better to ask than goons? I guess the first thing is that for the most part historical miniatures are system-agnostic, so you can use most figures with any rules-set. This is a big benefit compared to 40k because as long as you have figures you like you can just keep trying different rules until you gel with some. If you're interested in 6mm, Baccus is probably the go to for minis, then you just need to pair them up with some rules. I think Irregular are meant to be ok as well, as are Heroics and Ros if they're more available. 6mm will probably have you looking at large-scale games, as opposed to something like 28mm where you would be looking at skirmish games more akin to 40k to get started. Black Powder are a decent starting point I think for mass battles, although you need a lot of figures. There is a starter set offered by Warlord with their own weirdly scaled (13mm?) minis (Epic Black Powder I think it's called) if you just want an easy way in. I'm a fan of the Lasalle rules which are completely scale agnostic and available as a reasonably priced pdf. I play in 3mm but unfortunately the distributor where I live (UK) has recently shut down. Would be no problem playing in 6mm though. Table size is also relatively small which can be a help! The other way to get started is to have a look for any local historical gaming groups and see what they play. Chances are good that if you have one they do at least some Napoleonics. My group for example plays a lot of General d'Armee, which is pretty good but quite fiddly and expecting a second edition soon. It might be worth investigating DBN as well. I haven't played it but I believe it can be played with very small forces so will fit your "budget" requirement quite well.
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Dec 2, 2023 21:35
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Do not buy from Irregular Miniatures. They warn you right there in the title. I recently threw away my Italian Wars armies I bought from them because I just could not stand to look at them anymore (and I was moving). No amount of paint makes them look good.
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Dec 2, 2023 23:03
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INinja132 posted:I guess the first thing is that for the most part historical miniatures are system-agnostic, so you can use most figures with any rules-set. This is a big benefit compared to 40k because as long as you have figures you like you can just keep trying different rules until you gel with some. splendid. thank you for the advice. I think finding a local group is probably my best bet because then I can figure out what people are playing, tap on local knowledge for painting and sources, etc. Where does one typically find these groups, local facebooks? Virtual Russian posted:Do not buy from Irregular Miniatures. They warn you right there in the title.
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Dec 2, 2023 23:17
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DBN is great for a stripped down experience. It's cheap to get into as you only ever need 12 'elements' (or stands of infantry, cavalry or cannons) per side. Designed to be played on a 2x2' game space. I would also throw in Blucher, which you can play with unit cards and fill those in with minis as you grow your collection. If 3d printing is an option or you know someone with a printer then check out Henry Turner's stuff, he has basically anything you could need. Edit: Should probably note DBN stands for De Bellis Napoleonics
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Dec 2, 2023 23:21
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There's also Sharpe Practice, Muskets & Tomahawk and some other rulesets for skirmish level stuff if you want large individual models fighting small battles
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Dec 3, 2023 00:29
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I'm yet to play Blucher, but it looks to me to be one of the better representations of Napoleonic warfare. I might just print up cards and force the girlfriend to play a game with me. I was about to say I'm not allowed to buy anything new until we save enough for a house, but I think I've got a kilo or two of Naps from Grumbler Minis and Baccus in a box somewhere. I have a problem.
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Dec 3, 2023 00:33
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What's the elevator pitch on how Blucher models Napoleonic warfare better than something like Black Powder or LaSalle or whatever? I'd assume that being able to make use of formations and such would be a big part of why the black powder era stuff "feels" that way, and you don't have that in Blucher right?
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Dec 3, 2023 00:54
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Blucher and Lasalle are different scales, fwiw. I think one of the things that's worth noting is that depending on the level of command represented, some kinds of formation decision make more or less sense - I'm vastly more familiar with other eras, but it's kind of like, for instance, a shield wall. Sure, for a smallish game, the decision of when to form up is significant - but for a game on the scale of armies, you'd assume your kinsmen with personal command are deciding that, and you'd be far more worried about where all the banners are going. I imagine it's the same for Napoleonics - you don't decide when to form a square as the general d'armee, you have to assume your captains (or whatever the rank for it is) are paying attention and doing that when it's appropriate.
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Dec 3, 2023 01:06
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That's pretty accurate, including the point that Bucher has an integrated campaign system representing movement between detachments of even larger forces.
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Dec 3, 2023 02:10
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Springfield Fatts posted:That's pretty accurate, including the point that Bucher has an integrated campaign system representing movement between detachments of even larger forces. I really like the minigame before the game that determines deployment and reserves. I don't know the system well, so I'm not the one to describe it. My understanding is before the game proper, you play a much smaller very fast game that essentially mimics your armies marching towards each other and getting into position before the battle.
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Dec 3, 2023 02:48
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The best idea is to try and find a local club (try Facebook) and play whatever rules they have - there will always be someone who can loan you an army to play around with. Much better to learn the rules that way too. Just be prepared to learn a lot and possibly be defeated until you understand how everything works - it's a lot different from 40K. But you can also play historical battles and just try and do better than history! You've got a scale that goes from skirmish like a 40k game, to battalions, divisions and corps. It's Impossible to recommend a rule system unless you know the scale of the game. Warlord Games just released 15mm epic scale that is one army in a box and looks very nice with also being easy to paint. 15mm is typically for battalion/division games so it can do either. So long as everyone's bases are the same, it shouldn't really matter which rules you use. A multiplayer game can refight the big historical battles too. Everyone will tell you the best rules to play are they ones they use, so seeing what games you can actually get an opponent for is useful. So I re-fought The Battle of Austerlitz today. 3 players a side playing the new Glory is Fleeting Rules. I got there and asked who is the CinC? I got told it was me. 5 hours to play and we got a conclusion, though it was a close run thing with both sides winning and losing in separate parts of the battle. The Allies (my side) won. Napoleon arrived at the head of the Imperial Guard at the decisive moment of the battle but was unable to stop enough French units from routing on the left and in the centre. One more turn and he might well have done it as the Russian right flank started to collapse. I stayed on the Pratzen Heights and moved down off them only once we knew what the French plan was and the fog had cleared. The French attempted to lure us left, but lost one of the key towns on the left that meant their centre attack was unhinged, and unhistoricaly, failed to take it back. If they'd kept trying to retake the left flank villages I think they would have defeated my centre force, whether I was on the heights or not. The Russian Imperial Guard was torn to pieces by French Skirmishes on the right but held out long enough for the French right to fall back and the centre to be broken. The French Imperial Guard was committed too late and could only cover the retreat. No Austrian units attempted to flee over thin ice.
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Dec 3, 2023 08:30
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I'm also a fan of Lasalle for bigger games of napoleonics. General de Brigade/General d'Armee are also played around my are but I never got around to try it. I just wanted to mention that aside from Baccus, Adler has traditionally been the second big 6mm napoleonics brand. Generally speaking, Adler is a bit more "heroic scale" and a bit more exaggerated. The plus side though is that their poses are much more animated and interesting. It is most notable for the cavalry, I find Baccus cavalry to look really dull and so I like the mix of Baccus infantry and Adler cavalry. That said, a few years ago Grumbler Miniatures made a splash by making some very very good looking 6mm napoleonics. Their range is a lot less extensive and I believe them to be more expensive (I haven't compared recently), but they just look great if you want to splurge on a few really nice looking units. https://www.grumblerminiatures.com/ They do suffer the curse of a small one man operation and I think he was pretty much on the verge of giving up at one time. So a lot of "out of stock" stuff still. E: cool to hear about the Austerlitz refight, good job on keeping it all together in the centre! 
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Dec 3, 2023 22:37
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Count Thrashula posted:What's the elevator pitch on how Blucher models Napoleonic warfare better than something like Black Powder or LaSalle or whatever? I'd assume that being able to make use of formations and such would be a big part of why the black powder era stuff "feels" that way, and you don't have that in Blucher right? Yeah I'd second the addition of the Sharnhorst campaign system to Blucher is what makes me curious to try it even though I like Lasalle. Basically having a pre-game tagged on that creates the scenario based on how you move your forces on a map, with the option to start a battle when enough troops are close enough to each other. This means that battles are not "bing bong scenario says you both start on each long table edge, 1/3 of your army arrives at point A in turn 3 as reinforcements", but instead "oh you dumb gently caress you really fell for your opponents obvious ruse and now your cavalry is off loving around half a day's march to the south to collect victory points, and your marching order was dumb so so was your opponents so now you're both in poo poo positions. Good luck". So kinda like actual historical napoleonic battles. We tried a similar system for Sharp Practice 2 and it was great.
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Dec 3, 2023 22:48
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:15 mm painters. whats your paint time per figure like? wargame standard, preferably. im planning a big painting operation and i think mine is something like 15 mins/fig? but thats painting like 8 or 12 at a time. think if i did 36 or 72 at a time (1-2 full units for this project) i could maybe get down to 10 mins/fig? results of my latest batch - 6.8 hours for 39 mans which is 1 unit. 10.5 mins per fig. pretty good
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Dec 3, 2023 23:11
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lilljonas posted:Yeah I'd second the addition of the Sharnhorst campaign system to Blucher is what makes me curious to try it even though I like Lasalle. Basically having a pre-game tagged on that creates the scenario based on how you move your forces on a map, with the option to start a battle when enough troops are close enough to each other. This means that battles are not "bing bong scenario says you both start on each long table edge, 1/3 of your army arrives at point A in turn 3 as reinforcements", but instead "oh you dumb gently caress you really fell for your opponents obvious ruse and now your cavalry is off loving around half a day's march to the south to collect victory points, and your marching order was dumb so so was your opponents so now you're both in poo poo positions. Good luck". So kinda like actual historical napoleonic battles. This was exactly my experience, where the dickhead I was playing against was better at keeping his detachments within support of itself, meaning I was constantly chasing him down only to be at risk of getting overwhelmed in later scenarios or as in one game he had a flood of reinforcements able to arrive mid-game. It also emphasizes the realism of keeping the idea of preserving your forces in the back of your mind because you know you're going to have to go back to that big map after the current game ends.
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Dec 3, 2023 23:54
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Springfield Fatts posted:This was exactly my experience, where the dickhead I was playing against was better at keeping his detachments within support of itself, meaning I was constantly chasing him down only to be at risk of getting overwhelmed in later scenarios or as in one game he had a flood of reinforcements able to arrive mid-game. It also emphasizes the realism of keeping the idea of preserving your forces in the back of your mind because you know you're going to have to go back to that big map after the current game ends. Indeed I can not overemphasize how different a campaign with fog of war and a GM is. You get a lot more respect for real generals at the time. When you don’t know where your enemy is they are both everywhere and nowhere at all times. It fucks up your mind and you can get a sliver of an idea how it would be by playing a gm-led campaign.
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Dec 4, 2023 00:38
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Henry Turner's next mini range is AWI, previews posted on his Facebook  
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Dec 4, 2023 01:09
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lilljonas posted:I'm also a fan of Lasalle for bigger games of napoleonics. General de Brigade/General d'Armee are also played around my are but I never got around to try it. Grumbler is amazing quality, absurdly detailed too. They are traditionally sculpted and have beautiful naturalistic poses, leagues ahead of the 3D printed stuff you see. The Old Guard is particularly good. I think I might have been his second customer based on my invoice number.
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Dec 4, 2023 01:19
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I feel stupid right now but what is everyone playing nowadays for modern day? I saw on the first page the game Ambush Alley, but going to their website, I can't find where to buy the miniatures, and was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction please?
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Dec 4, 2023 08:38
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So the thing about historicals is, you can play them with any period-appropriate models so many game publishers don’t even bother making their own miniatures. Some do, like Warlord and I forget the Flmes of War company, but lots of people play those games with other minis. I have some Empress Minitures modern US Marines that are pretty nice. I don’t really play games with them so can’t recommend any rules. Iirc Force on Force was cool, but I hear you should pick up a book of scenarios to go with it, it's not written for pick up gaming.
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Dec 4, 2023 09:14
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To be fair having recently gone looking moderns can be a little awkward, depending on what you're after. Empress and Eureka do some, and Spectre Miniatures have a range. A lot of moderns guys have moved over to 3D printing.
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Dec 4, 2023 10:59
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lilljonas posted:It'd be awesome but I'm already at the point where it's starting to be a logistical nightmare to move mine, even just across town.The disadvantage of 28mm, especially metals. It's just an idle idea. The core of my army is one of those Wargames Foundry "Grand Army Deals" that they used to run. When it arrived it was 35 pounds of metal. I have since added Cossacks and Opolchenie to harass my friend's "Retreat from Moscow" French. I don't have a practical way to transport the army as a whole. lilljonas posted:I haven't painted a napoleonic mini in all of 2023. I need to correct this horrible faux pas in next year. I feel like Davout is looking down at me, going "tsk tsk". I understand that feeling. LurchinTard posted:I watched napoleon recently and now I think I'd like to play a wargame of the napoleonic wars. from my understanding this is one of the most well covered topics in wargaming history. However this makes entering somewhat intimidating, and I figure who better to ask than goons? I know you specified 6mm, but I'll pitch giving 28mm skirmish gaming a try since you mentioned "budget." Consider that you can probably get a working starter army out of a single box of Victrix or Perry plastics, like for example this one:  That's 56 guys (Two with flags, two with drums, two leaders on horses, and 48 regular infantry). That's enough to get you going in skirmish gaming; maybe add a small unit of cavalry or a cannon later if you want some variety. The best part is that those are good figures and the whole box costs $30. Yes, thirty bucks. If you're used to 40K prices this is cheap. System wise, Muskets and Tomahawks has been mentioned, it's a very good system. There's a book for Napoleonic armies (Shakos and Bayonets) that has all of the lists you'll need. Count Thrashula posted:Henry Turner's next mini range is AWI, previews posted on his Facebook Oh, crap, 15mm AWI? I have some. What system is he using? Some of mine: 
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Dec 4, 2023 16:05
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I said come in! posted:I feel stupid right now but what is everyone playing nowadays for modern day? I saw on the first page the game Ambush Alley, but going to their website, I can't find where to buy the miniatures, and was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction please? Skirmish Sangin is a decent core, but needs some house rules to really 'fit' for what we wanted. Spectre just came out with a new system that seems pretty decent, but haven't had a chance to play yet-hopefully by the beginning of next year. If you really liked the previous version of Spectre, there is a new ruleset called Asymmetric Warfare that is essentially Spectre third edition with a new name/publisher. Black Powder Red Earth is getting some traction and has some interesting mechanics, but I get a real dog whistle vibe from them, so YMMV. As far as minis go, it feels like everyone is printing stuff now. Everyone wants their own particular combination of rattle and weapons, so trying to do that in a physical line would be a nightmare. Personally, I have a bit of a backlog of Mongrel Miniatures MENA insurgents and some Hasslefree Modern Adventurers that I am wanting to finish up. I hope that is all I need as both ranges are pretty much dead at this point. I sold my Tiny Terrain Chechens a while back to a buddy that was looking for them and couldn't get 'em since that line is dead as well. My next moderns project is probably going to be something like a LA bank heist/cartel/GTA-ish thing and I am thinking those will likely be prints.
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Dec 4, 2023 17:44
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Ambush Alley is now Force on Force, but I can't recommend it; It's written from a very Black Rifle Coffee and Oakleys perspective, and has predictable baked-in biases that really hurt the game.
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Dec 4, 2023 19:26
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guys guys guys guys guys
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Dec 6, 2023 18:51
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| # ? May 26, 2024 00:13 |
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spectralent posted:guys guys guys guys guys excellent.
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Dec 6, 2023 18:57
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