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TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Following up on my kitchen light with the knob&tube wiring: since opening it up, I've left the breaker that controls that circuit unpowered. That breaker controls overhead lighting for the entire house, so that's kind of irritating in the evenings. As far as I can tell, the wiring to the switch is still in good condition; do you think there'd be any harm in re-powering the circuit breaker if I just disconnect the "on" side of the switch? That way it couldn't pass any power through to the fixture's box.

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FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams

devicenull posted:

Did you check with your utility if they'll even give you a second drop? Around here, they really don't want to do this for any reason. (Especially if your garage is attached)

It had never even occurred to me to check with the utility, based on the confidence with which my electrician suggested it, until someone mentioned the same thing in the EV thread. I haven't checked explicitly that they would be willing to give me another service to my (detached) garage. But they do list a second service as one of their ev pricing options, so between that and the electrician's confidence I'm reasonably sure they're fine with it.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Following up on my kitchen light with the knob&tube wiring: since opening it up, I've left the breaker that controls that circuit unpowered. That breaker controls overhead lighting for the entire house, so that's kind of irritating in the evenings. As far as I can tell, the wiring to the switch is still in good condition; do you think there'd be any harm in re-powering the circuit breaker if I just disconnect the "on" side of the switch? That way it couldn't pass any power through to the fixture's box.

There would not be harm in disconnecting the wire from the switch. Just to be safe, cap any wire ends; just spin a wire nut on the bare wire. Don't want to see any exposed conductor. If the breaker trips for any reason, investigate that before resetting the breaker.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

babyeatingpsychopath posted:

There would not be harm in disconnecting the wire from the switch. Just to be safe, cap any wire ends; just spin a wire nut on the bare wire. Don't want to see any exposed conductor. If the breaker trips for any reason, investigate that before resetting the breaker.

Will do, thanks!

null_pointer
Nov 9, 2004

Center in, pull back. Stop. Track 45 right. Stop. Center and stop.

Welp, I'm back. Got that wireless relay for that switch in an awkward position, pulled the cover off and found this. What the hell am I looking at?



Full disclosure, I have absolutely zero knowledge of wiring, so I have no idea what to do here. Can someone give me some guidance on how to wire this up?

The existing switch seems to be running off of black, which I assume is just live. The relay wants "live", "load", and ground. I have no idea what colors on the relay should go to what colors in the box.

If these questions are so basic that the danger of me killing myself is high, please say so.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Interesting, I got and installed this one

TacoHavoc posted:

There's also the Lutron option:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-...WS-WH/314328501

You don't need to use a hub with these if you don't want to.

(thanks taco, by the way), and it's completely different. Maybe that one doesn't use neutral? I was also surprised at how minimal the instructions are. Like, a paragraph warning about don't swallow the cr2032, but nothing about how to use a wire nut, or even that it's important to use them correctly.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

null_pointer posted:


If these questions are so basic that the danger of me killing myself is high, please say so.

This is a very standard box and switch install and if that's throwing you you should hire a pro or do a lot of studying and videos before you proceed.

Sudden Loud Noise
Feb 18, 2007

Is there an "easy" way to diagnose/monitor intermittent circuit problems? I've got a circuit for two bathrooms and one bedroom lighting on it, that trips maybe twice a week under very specfic conditions (but not all the time under those conditions.)

Circuit contains:
AFCI breaker
Bedroom Lights 1 and 2
Bathroom 1 Lights 1 and 2 and Fan
Bathroom 2 Lights 1 and 2 and Fan

To reproduce the issue:
Must be morning or night, has never reproducible in the middle of the day.
Bathroom 1 Light 1 must be on.
Bathroom 2 Light 2 gets turned on.
AFCI breaker trips.

No other variable makes any difference.

My initial thought is just a sensitive AFCI breaker, but the fact that only certain load configurations are producing the issue make me think otherwise.

I live in an apartment and my panel doesn't have a main breaker so I'd like to do as much diagnosing as possible before having to hire an electrician to come and just replace a breaker and say "Pay me to come again if it happens again."

Which I guess leads to a secondary question, How bad of an idea is it to not shut off the main before replacing a breaker? I've done panel work at previous places I've lived, but always had the main breaker flipped off to keep myself safe.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Sudden Loud Noise posted:

My initial thought is just a sensitive AFCI breaker, but the fact that only certain load configurations are producing the issue make me think otherwise.

I'd be looking at light fixtures and how they are attached (i.e. poor connections under wire nuts) first and switches second.

Sudden Loud Noise posted:

Which I guess leads to a secondary question, How bad of an idea is it to not shut off the main before replacing a breaker?

This is something that is done every day all day. It's a fine idea if you know how to do it. If you have to ask you likely don't, and it's something you should learn in person from someone who knows what they are doing.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


What happens if you put a different type of bulb in the lights, like an incandescent/halogen or a different brand LED?

Or can you recreate the issue at any time by sticking the bulbs in the refrigerator for a while? I wonder if they have an odd current draw waveform when cold.

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

Sudden Loud Noise posted:

I live in an apartment

Call your landlord.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

SouthShoreSamurai posted:

Call your landlord.

I always miss this because in my pocket of the northeast that doesn't always mean you're renting. But yes, call your landlord if you're renting.

Sudden Loud Noise
Feb 18, 2007

Motronic posted:

I always miss this because in my pocket of the northeast that doesn't always mean you're renting. But yes, call your landlord if you're renting.

Yeah, I should have clarified, not renting. So technically a condo.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Sudden Loud Noise posted:

Yeah, I should have clarified, not renting. So technically a condo.

Well lucky you, homeownership/money pit ownership is grand.

Anyway, yeah.....bulbs and fixtures. Don't jump to the most expensive things first.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

null_pointer posted:

Welp, I'm back. Got that wireless relay for that switch in an awkward position, pulled the cover off and found this. What the hell am I looking at?



Full disclosure, I have absolutely zero knowledge of wiring, so I have no idea what to do here. Can someone give me some guidance on how to wire this up?

The existing switch seems to be running off of black, which I assume is just live. The relay wants "live", "load", and ground. I have no idea what colors on the relay should go to what colors in the box.

If these questions are so basic that the danger of me killing myself is high, please say so.

"Live" is the power in to the switch.
"load" is to go to the light fixture or whatever the switch is controlling.
"Ground" should be connected to the other ground wires in the box.

Blackbeer
Aug 13, 2007

well, well, well

Sudden Loud Noise posted:

Is there an "easy" way to diagnose/monitor intermittent circuit problems? I've got a circuit for two bathrooms and one bedroom lighting on it, that trips maybe twice a week under very specfic conditions (but not all the time under those conditions.)


I live in an apartment and my panel doesn't have a main breaker so I'd like to do as much diagnosing as possible before having to hire an electrician to come and just replace a breaker and say "Pay me to come again if it happens again."

Which I guess leads to a secondary question, How bad of an idea is it to not shut off the main before replacing a breaker? I've done panel work at previous places I've lived, but always had the main breaker flipped off to keep myself safe.

Are they LED? I've had a bad LED fixture intermittently trip off an afci breaker (can light replacement type). I'd check connections like Motronic posted; if that doesn't work disconnect the light in bath2 and see if you can reproduce the trip. I too think I'd leave the af breaker for last, though if you have another af breaker in the panel the same size you could switch loads and see if it still trips intermittently.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I have been posting bout Hawk's House Of Horrors (mostly Gary The Electrician) in home zone but this seemed too uh, Gary, not to share here. To set the stage, we knew there was a Zinsco panel and 2 aluminum 240V/50A circuits because the 70's were a different time. The kitchen had been remodeled, and I found out the 2-gang quad outlet with a GFCI duplex in it protected... that GFCI. Not even its friend in the same box. Part of my base scope with the electricians was new panel and R&R the aluminum with copper.

Ripping up the subfloor on the 2nd story to install a hood vent uncovered:

H110Hawk posted:

I ran by the other day to have a peak. It's so dumb. I only had a minute and didn't want to walk along the now railing-free subfloor-missing area to get more pictures. Basically this in seemingly every other joist bay:




I want whatever this handyman was on, the electricians started fixing this up as well as pulling new circuits to the kitchen. That fat wire in the above picture is what we call foreshadowing. It's 8/3 aluminum, there were two of them going to the kitchen - one for the double oven, one for the previous electric cooktop which is now gas. All on 50A Zinsco breakers remember.

What have we here?


You can basically play name the violation. This was a splice not in a box, sealed in a wall, #8 AL tied to #12 CU using cu-only nuts, no gel, wrong overcurrent protection (50A remember!), and I think wrong-size nuts.This particular splice was powering the microwave off one leg, the other leg was capped off which is somehow the safest thing they've found. There was another hack job they found which tied the double oven copper hardwire power cord to the other aluminum run. All the same problems as above except it's at least #8 end to end on 50A. They didn't even put the oven splice in a box - there was probably a box there previously but it got ripped out for the new cabinetry. Strangely none of the nuts have been loose, but many were basically crushed on there. And then liberal use of electrical tape to compensate for over-stripping (or it's the ground - I didn't look closely enough because it sort of didn't matter.)

Anyways, this poo poo is all in a pile on the floor now and I told them to keep cutting inspection holes until they are confident they've found all the splices. Good thing there was a uncapped T&M line on the bid. :shepspends:

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
UM.

holy loving poo poo

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




:yikes:

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
professional as hell, lmao

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)


Cocaine is a nasty drug.

Found a lot of similar poo poo in a 70s house I lived in. One splice had gotten so loose that you had to slam the bathroom door and hit the wall a couple of times to get the bathroom lights to come on.

Powerful Two-Hander
Mar 10, 2004

Mods please change my name to "Tooter Skeleton" TIA.


Here's a wiring adjacent question; due to a miscommunication on my wife's part when fitting a new bathroom the fitters/tilers didn't refit the low level lighting that was in the original tiles. All the wiring is still there in the eaves so can be attached to replacement lights, but the old tiles were just a skirting and now go full height around so it's not as easy as just fitting into the plasterboard and the tiles haven't got back to us yet on whether they'll drill holes now they're fitted.

It is possible to fit them into either the gap between the tiles and the start of the roof slope (room is in the roof so is sloped on two sides), or potentially in the roof slope itself if I remove the insulation, drill and refit (these are very low wattage accent lights with separate drivers so I'm not worried about overheating here).

Problem is, they'd then be close to eyeline so I'm wondering if anyone's used "eyelid" lights and what the actual angle is/whether they are still too bright if you look dead on? If they work the way they look then they'd either take it out of the eyeline if I put them in the vertical, or work like downlighter if in the sloped ceiling.

Note; this may end up with what is essentially an illuminated toilet.

e: I'm talking about these here, about 20mm diameter

Powerful Two-Hander fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Dec 3, 2023

Powerful Two-Hander
Mar 10, 2004

Mods please change my name to "Tooter Skeleton" TIA.


Nevermind this is completely academic because after going into the space in the eaves again,there's no access to the ceiling or upper part of the wall from the parts in that room. Rip.

I guess what I could get done is to have a new spur put in off the switch and have them in the wall above the wall cabinet (whole place needs decorating so not a problem to cut through to run it, or put a cheap rechargeable pir strip under the sink unit.

This is a lot of effort to avoid having to put the light on to go to the toilet in the night

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Just stumble around in the dark and sit for your midnight piss, yw

Powerful Two-Hander
Mar 10, 2004

Mods please change my name to "Tooter Skeleton" TIA.


Bad Munki posted:

Just stumble around in the dark and sit for your midnight piss, yw

I told my wife that because this is her fault I am just going to try and aim in the dark and let things fall where they may.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer
Here you go.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

randomidiot posted:

Cocaine is a nasty drug.

Found a lot of similar poo poo in a 70s house I lived in. One splice had gotten so loose that you had to slam the bathroom door and hit the wall a couple of times to get the bathroom lights to come on.

And this is why we can't have nice things/are required to have AFCI breakers now.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'



Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Ah, the benefits of a high-tritium diet.

dms666
Oct 17, 2005

It's Playoff Beard Time! Go Pens!
Is there a switch that exists for this situation?

I bought a set of gas logs that came with a remote, but the remote box died. Instead of paying $100+ for a new receiver/remote combo, I figured I could just have it on a switch for hopefully a lot less.

I had a battery pack sitting around (4-AAs) the same as the receiver took. If I connect the red and black from the battery pack to the red and black coming off of the logs, it turns them on. It only shuts off if I reverse the wires. Just looking for a switch that would perform this. I think I might need some sort of 6-pole toggle switch, but wasn't sure if that would actually work, or if they're all even the same.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


If you aren't into holy poo poo, try this wall-mounted light. I have one in the hallway to the bathroom, one on the stairs, and one in the first-floor hallway. They've lasted a couple of years, with a couple of battery changes.

Powerful Two-Hander
Mar 10, 2004

Mods please change my name to "Tooter Skeleton" TIA.


Arsenic Lupin posted:

If you aren't into holy poo poo, try this wall-mounted light. I have one in the hallway to the bathroom, one on the stairs, and one in the first-floor hallway. They've lasted a couple of years, with a couple of battery changes.

Those actually look pretty good, I might try them out if it turns out to be an issue!

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
I have some small red LEDs that are similar to the product that Arsenic Lupin linked, except they just plug into an outlet. Gives enough light for you to do your business in the middle of the night, without waking you up.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


dms666 posted:

Is there a switch that exists for this situation?

I bought a set of gas logs that came with a remote, but the remote box died. Instead of paying $100+ for a new receiver/remote combo, I figured I could just have it on a switch for hopefully a lot less.

I had a battery pack sitting around (4-AAs) the same as the receiver took. If I connect the red and black from the battery pack to the red and black coming off of the logs, it turns them on. It only shuts off if I reverse the wires. Just looking for a switch that would perform this. I think I might need some sort of 6-pole toggle switch, but wasn't sure if that would actually work, or if they're all even the same.

Sounds like a DPDT momentary switch would work. Terminals are typically like this:
pre:
1 2 NO1
3 4 COM
5 6 NO2
You'd connect COM red and black to 3 and 4. Your battery red would go to 1 and 6 and black to 2 and 5. When you push the switch UP, then 3 connects to 1 and 4 connects to 2 so red to red and black to black. Logs come on. Push switch DOWN and 3 connects to 5 and 4 connects to 6. Red to black, black to red, logs go off.
https://www.quora.com/How-do-you-wire-a-6-pin-toggle-switch

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

dms666 posted:

Is there a switch that exists for this situation?

I bought a set of gas logs that came with a remote, but the remote box died. Instead of paying $100+ for a new receiver/remote combo, I figured I could just have it on a switch for hopefully a lot less.

I had a battery pack sitting around (4-AAs) the same as the receiver took. If I connect the red and black from the battery pack to the red and black coming off of the logs, it turns them on. It only shuts off if I reverse the wires. Just looking for a switch that would perform this. I think I might need some sort of 6-pole toggle switch, but wasn't sure if that would actually work, or if they're all even the same.

Just use an on-off-on DPDT switch.

e: beaten, that's what i get for not refreshing.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

I installed this switch in my bathroom maybe 3 weeks ago and tonight it seems like it failed. I tested the wires and they’re still hot. No breaker is tripped because the outlets in the bathroom still work. Not a gfci issue.

The only thing I didn’t check since it’s 9 pm was removing the switch and putting in the old switch to verify it’s a bad switch.

Does a faulty switch seem likely or could I be missing something else?

Model #002-DHD05-1LW


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...5-1LW/322925920

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


nwin posted:

I installed this switch in my bathroom maybe 3 weeks ago and tonight it seems like it failed. I tested the wires and they’re still hot. No breaker is tripped because the outlets in the bathroom still work. Not a gfci issue.

The only thing I didn’t check since it’s 9 pm was removing the switch and putting in the old switch to verify it’s a bad switch.

Does a faulty switch seem likely or could I be missing something else?

Model #002-DHD05-1LW


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...5-1LW/322925920

I have the same switch. Installed it about six weeks ago and mine failed, too. Yesterday. Report it to home depot. May be a recall! Maybe we can get our money back or something.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
And if home depot won't take it back leviton has a 5yr warranty on it. That sucks, but probably needs a recall.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

babyeatingpsychopath posted:

I have the same switch. Installed it about six weeks ago and mine failed, too. Yesterday. Report it to home depot. May be a recall! Maybe we can get our money back or something.

drat. Good thing I kept the old switch.

I bought another one off Amazon because it would get here faster, but I’m going to take this back to Home Depot since it’s within 30 days.

I emailed Leviton.

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dms666
Oct 17, 2005

It's Playoff Beard Time! Go Pens!

babyeatingpsychopath posted:

Sounds like a DPDT momentary switch would work. Terminals are typically like this:
pre:
1 2 NO1
3 4 COM
5 6 NO2
You'd connect COM red and black to 3 and 4. Your battery red would go to 1 and 6 and black to 2 and 5. When you push the switch UP, then 3 connects to 1 and 4 connects to 2 so red to red and black to black. Logs come on. Push switch DOWN and 3 connects to 5 and 4 connects to 6. Red to black, black to red, logs go off.
https://www.quora.com/How-do-you-wire-a-6-pin-toggle-switch

Thanks!

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