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KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

obi_ant posted:

I have some money in a Vanguard brokerage account that I wanted to liquidate and place into something else in Vanguard. The fund is over a year old, how do I calculate the taxes I would owe?

Assuming you have not re-bought the fund or re-invested dividends, it will all be taxed as LTCG. You should have your cost basis and sell price, which allows you to calculate profit from sale. Then multiply that by 15% and that's how much you owe the government. (note that I'm assuming you make between $47K and $518K in MAGI, otherwise the 15% will be a different number)

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obi_ant
Apr 8, 2005

Thank you! Vanguard's UI is sometimes very non user friendly, but I was able to figure it out with the information you gave me.

Spacewolf
May 19, 2014
Does anyone have recs for an alternative to Mint for budgeting and money stuff?

Requirements:
Must work on web and Android.
Must be free to use.
Must have at least kinda the same features as Mint, such as the ability to categorize and sub-categorize expenses.

Now that intuit is killing Mint without Credit Karma able to do the same things.

Basically I need something that is mostly backward-looking, but where I can set a monthly budget (I'm on social security disability and have no other income) and see if I'm sticking to it.

drk
Jan 16, 2005
When this came up in the Long Term investing thread, a couple people mentioned Fidelity Full View. Its free if you have a Fidelity account, and should work on desktop and mobile. As far as having most of the Mint features you want, I cant comment on that since I haven't used either service.

Also, regarding Credit Karma, are you sure it doesnt support the features you need? This page makes it sound like it might: https://www.creditkarma.com/lp/mint-to-credit-karma-net-worth It doesnt have an explicit budgeting feature, but you can see your current months spending broken down by category.

vortmax
Sep 24, 2008

In meteorology, vorticity often refers to a measurement of the spin of horizontally flowing air about a vertical axis.
Okay y'all, so back in the summer of 2001 I worked for Walmart in Norman Oklahoma in the deli. I'm pretty sure I put money from each paycheck into the employee associate stock-buying program and maybe a matched retirement account. After I left I never followed up on that. (My mom was sick and I was having a mental breakdown for the next few years.)

How can I find out what happened with that?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

vortmax posted:

Okay y'all, so back in the summer of 2001 I worked for Walmart in Norman Oklahoma in the deli. I'm pretty sure I put money from each paycheck into the employee associate stock-buying program and maybe a matched retirement account. After I left I never followed up on that. (My mom was sick and I was having a mental breakdown for the next few years.)

How can I find out what happened with that?

The key word you're looking for is "unclaimed property" and it's a state level thing. Google tells me this is the right one for you: https://oklahoma.gov/treasurer/unclaimed-property.html

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Spacewolf posted:

Does anyone have recs for an alternative to Mint for budgeting and money stuff?
sorry if this is too obvious, but look around your bank’s website. My bank did zero of that stuff when I started using Mint, but I was surprised to find that their new app has everything I used Mint for

drk
Jan 16, 2005

vortmax posted:

Okay y'all, so back in the summer of 2001 I worked for Walmart in Norman Oklahoma in the deli. I'm pretty sure I put money from each paycheck into the employee associate stock-buying program and maybe a matched retirement account. After I left I never followed up on that. (My mom was sick and I was having a mental breakdown for the next few years.)

How can I find out what happened with that?

The stock plan is (currently) administered by computershare: https://www-us.computershare.com/employee/login/selectholdergroup.aspx

You might try going through the process there to set up or recover your account.

Magnetic North
Dec 15, 2008

Beware the Forest's Mushrooms
Regarding Roth conversions: If I understand it correctly, you pay taxes on the money now for the benefit of getting it into the Roth where it grows tax free. The downside is this can mean a hefty tax bill in the immediate. However, if you made less money in a certain year this can offset some of that because you may be in a lower tax bracket. So, for instance, if say I was unemployed for a big chunk of this year, that would be an opportunity to consider making the conversion from old 401ks that are in a Rollover IRA right now into my Roth, right? Also, I assume it's by calendar year so if I want to do this, it should be sooner rather than later?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

drk posted:

When this came up in the Long Term investing thread, a couple people mentioned Fidelity Full View.

I use this but it's not good for budgeting on any cadence faster than monthly. It's slow and only updates when you open it up. Think of it more like balancing a checkbook. I just peak at it quarterly or so because it's a fun number to look at.

Spacewolf
May 19, 2014

Anne Whateley posted:

sorry if this is too obvious, but look around your bank’s website. My bank did zero of that stuff when I started using Mint, but I was surprised to find that their new app has everything I used Mint for

Not too obvious at all - I just checked my credit union, hadn't been to their website directly in a while, and it seems to have something possibly similar. I'll say something here if it turns out not to have what I need.

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009
Grimey Drawer

Spacewolf posted:

Does anyone have recs for an alternative to Mint for budgeting and money stuff?

Requirements:
Must work on web and Android.
Must be free to use.
Must have at least kinda the same features as Mint, such as the ability to categorize and sub-categorize expenses.

Now that intuit is killing Mint without Credit Karma able to do the same things.

Basically I need something that is mostly backward-looking, but where I can set a monthly budget (I'm on social security disability and have no other income) and see if I'm sticking to it.

I use Personal Capital (now Empower Personal Capital).

You can set and monitor a monthly budget. It will show you how much under, or over you are the previous months spending. It will show you a breakdown by category, along with a chart showing spending over time. You can click into the category to see the spending over time of the category.

Granted, I don't really actively budget, so there might be better things out there for that purpose, but it's free and seems decently useful.

Jows
May 8, 2002

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

This is correct ($5,000 total between the two spouses) and it is pretty small but it beats $0

I don't think this limit has moved since the 80s, which is WILD.

balancedbias
May 2, 2009
$$$$$$$$$

Magnetic North posted:

Regarding Roth conversions: If I understand it correctly, you pay taxes on the money now for the benefit of getting it into the Roth where it grows tax free. The downside is this can mean a hefty tax bill in the immediate. However, if you made less money in a certain year this can offset some of that because you may be in a lower tax bracket. So, for instance, if say I was unemployed for a big chunk of this year, that would be an opportunity to consider making the conversion from old 401ks that are in a Rollover IRA right now into my Roth, right? Also, I assume it's by calendar year so if I want to do this, it should be sooner rather than later?

Yes, this year would be a good opportunity to do a conversion if you are in a low tax bracket for whatever reason.

Phanatic
Mar 13, 2007
Probation
Can't post for 2 hours!
During COVID my company paid out a bonus in the form of stock (not an option, an actual quantity of shares of stock in an account with my name on it), which I wasn't allowed to sell until this coming December.

If I sell it, is that taxed as income or as a capital gain? And if it's a capital gain, what's the cost basis? The stock price when I received the bonus or something else?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Phanatic posted:

During COVID my company paid out a bonus in the form of stock (not an option, an actual quantity of shares of stock in an account with my name on it), which I wasn't allowed to sell until this coming December.

If I sell it, is that taxed as income or as a capital gain? And if it's a capital gain, what's the cost basis? The stock price when I received the bonus or something else?

RSU's typically are taxed as ordinary income when the restrictions are lifted, then any spread from there to sale is cap gains (timer starts on the restriction lifting, so same day is stcg, 1 year later ltcg.) If you get em today at $100 and they tank to $50 before you can mash sell then you have $100 in income and $50 in short term loss per share.

Menacer
Nov 25, 2000
Failed Sega Accessory Ahoy!
When you are initially informed about the stock grant, they'll often say "we're giving you $n worth of stock, assuming each unit of stock costs $m". Or "we're giving you N stock units, regardless of the price." That is when you are informed. Some number of months later, you will be able to actually sell those stock units (however much they are worth at that time). This is stock vest time. The total cost of the stock units at that time is your cost basis -- how much money did they give you, because you could've sold it immediately and turned it into cash. You owe income taxes on this cost basis.

You can often choose to pay the tax on this grant in cash, i.e. you put some cash money into your account, they take the money to pay the taxes, and you then get all the promised stock units to do with what you will. Or you can choose to sell-to-cover: when your stock units become sellable, some of them will be sold to pay the income tax and you keep the remainder. If you sell-to-cover, the goal is that you sell enough stock units immediately to cover all the tax you owe. All the remaining stock units are yours to keep. If you choose to pay cash-to-cover the income tax, that's your responsibility, and you get to keep all the stock units the company promised you.

In some way, you've paid income tax on all the stock units you now own. If their value goes up and you sell these stock units within a year, you will be taxed short-term capital gains. You owe short-term capital gains tax on "whatever you sold them for" minus "whatever you owned post-income-tax from the previous two paragraphs". This is your sale price minus your cost basis. If you sell more than one year later, you owe long-term capital gains on the same amount.

A fun part will show up when your stock account reports taxes. Etrade (and I'd guess others?) will tell you that your cost basis was $0. You'll think you owe a lot of tax on the entire sale price. Then, later, there will be a separate form that they will send that shows your actual cost basis. I hosed this up for more than one tax filing season and double-paid on taxes. I paid both the income tax as vest time as well as the capital gains under the assumption that my stock were worthless at vest time. That was stupid, don't do that.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
My understanding is that the usual recommendation is that you sell all of your shares as soon as they vest. The logic is that you already are financially dependent on your employer continuing to do well; no need to compound that by owning a stake in the business. This logic changes if you have some noticeable power to affect the business' viability (i.e. you're a C-list executive or similar), but most people don't.

Hieronymous Alloy
Jan 30, 2009


Why! Why!! Why must you refuse to accept that Dr. Hieronymous Alloy's Genetically Enhanced Cream Corn Is Superior to the Leading Brand on the Market!?!




Morbid Hound
Is there a verdict on the best replacement for mint.com in terms of budgeting apps?

pmchem
Jan 22, 2010


i'm a big fan of budget.ods, budget.xlsx, or sheets.google.com

Hieronymous Alloy
Jan 30, 2009


Why! Why!! Why must you refuse to accept that Dr. Hieronymous Alloy's Genetically Enhanced Cream Corn Is Superior to the Leading Brand on the Market!?!




Morbid Hound

pmchem posted:

i'm a big fan of budget.ods, budget.xlsx, or sheets.google.com

that sounds like it would involve effort, possibly even math

drk
Jan 16, 2005
the pay yourself first budget works well for me: I put about 20-25% of my gross income into tax advantaged retirement accounts via automatic contributions, then dont stress about the rest

obviously, that wont work for everyone, but its nice to get there

Hieronymous Alloy
Jan 30, 2009


Why! Why!! Why must you refuse to accept that Dr. Hieronymous Alloy's Genetically Enhanced Cream Corn Is Superior to the Leading Brand on the Market!?!




Morbid Hound

drk posted:

the pay yourself first budget. . ..
obviously, that wont work for everyone,

the laissez-faire approach to budgeting has worked great for a while but now there's a BABY so I feel like I should sit down and develop a more organized plan here

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Hieronymous Alloy posted:

the laissez-faire approach to budgeting has worked great for a while but now there's a BABY so I feel like I should sit down and develop a more organized plan here

as far as I can tell the baby budget works as follows

:tif:

Natty Ninefingers
Feb 17, 2011
How the gently caress do I buy a car? Is it more sensible to try to get used, or is the market still do fucky that you might as well suck it up and get new.

Sorry, it’s late and I’ve been lucky enough to never have to really do this before.

Agggggggggh

edit:whoops found the car thread link in the general discussion. Still could use a hug.

Natty Ninefingers fucked around with this message at 08:29 on Dec 6, 2023

Baddog
May 12, 2001

Natty Ninefingers posted:

How the gently caress do I buy a car? Is it more sensible to try to get used, or is the market still do fucky that you might as well suck it up and get new.

Sorry, it’s late and I’ve been lucky enough to never have to really do this before.

Agggggggggh

edit:whoops found the car thread link in the general discussion. Still could use a hug.

It'll be ok! I'm kinda curious what the car thread link says, depending on the state the EV subsidies can be really drat nice. I think in colorado you can get up to ~17K off if you qualify for everything. 7.5K from federal, 5K from state, 5K from the utility if your income qualifies. I don't think the leaf qualifies for the whole federal subsidy anymore, but it *could* still be ~15K new. Kinda hard to beat.

daslog
Dec 10, 2008

#essereFerrari

Natty Ninefingers posted:

How the gently caress do I buy a car? Is it more sensible to try to get used, or is the market still do fucky that you might as well suck it up and get new.

Sorry, it’s late and I’ve been lucky enough to never have to really do this before.

Agggggggggh

edit:whoops found the car thread link in the general discussion. Still could use a hug.

It's not too bad. Search for 2012 Toyota Camry to figure out how much to save and don't take out car loans because that puts you on the wrong path. New car prices are insane and EVs are only for the wealthy.

Magnetic North
Dec 15, 2008

Beware the Forest's Mushrooms

Natty Ninefingers posted:

How the gently caress do I buy a car? Is it more sensible to try to get used, or is the market still do fucky that you might as well suck it up and get new.

Sorry, it’s late and I’ve been lucky enough to never have to really do this before.

Agggggggggh

edit:whoops found the car thread link in the general discussion. Still could use a hug.

I''m a meek, feckless coward and I found my experience at Carmax to be incredibly pleasant and low pressure. That was during the pandemic pre-vaccine so it's probably even more chill normally. You do pay a 'Carmax tax' to not haggle, but if you're me, you're paying that as rear end in a top hat tax anyway.

Serious_Cyclone
Oct 25, 2017

I appreciate your patience, this is a tricky maneuver
Not a lot to contribute to car talk, other than I only just recently learned in my middle-middle-age that when a dealer gets the financing for you, they often slap an additional 1+% onto the interest rate that they get from the lender and present it to you as if it was the lender's terms. Just straight up ripping you off. If you are financing (I won't get into fights about it), go to your own bank for financing and bring that information with you to a dealer, they probably won't be able to beat it because they aren't able to play their game.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Serious_Cyclone posted:

Not a lot to contribute to car talk, other than I only just recently learned in my middle-middle-age that when a dealer gets the financing for you, they often slap an additional 1+% onto the interest rate that they get from the lender and present it to you as if it was the lender's terms. Just straight up ripping you off. If you are financing (I won't get into fights about it), go to your own bank for financing and bring that information with you to a dealer, they probably won't be able to beat it because they aren't able to play their game.

And then the price of the car will be higher.

Dealers don't make money selling cars anymore. They make money on financing. If you're not financing with them you will pay more, full stop.

You're better off taking their finance offer (negotiate it of course) and then immediately scumbagging them by refinancing with your bank.

Serious_Cyclone
Oct 25, 2017

I appreciate your patience, this is a tricky maneuver

Motronic posted:

You're better off taking their finance offer (negotiate it of course) and then immediately scumbagging them by refinancing with your bank.

I'm not really that invested in this debate, but this is the first I've heard of this tactic and I don't immediately hate it.

tumblr hype man
Jul 29, 2008

nice meltdown
Slippery Tilde

Motronic posted:

And then the price of the car will be higher.

Dealers don't make money selling cars anymore. They make money on financing. If you're not financing with them you will pay more, full stop.

You're better off taking their finance offer (negotiate it of course) and then immediately scumbagging them by refinancing with your bank.

This is especially true if you’re financing an RV or boat. Last bank I worked at paid something like 1% of the financed amount for each 0.25% that the dealer marked up the rate above our indicated rate. This did have a cap, but it quickly becomes a huge source of cash for dealers.

daslog
Dec 10, 2008

#essereFerrari

Motronic posted:


Dealers don't make money selling cars anymore.

This isn't actually true, but they do make additional profit on the financing and the aftermarket products like extended warrantys.

Now that being said, if you are a really amazing negotiator you may be able negotiate a cash price first then negotiate an even lower price by doing the financing at the dealership after the the cash price is set. Many dealers won't do this because it's not worth the hassle for them but you can always try.

Source: Wife is the Financial Controller for a dealership chain.

daslog fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Dec 6, 2023

Natty Ninefingers
Feb 17, 2011

Baddog posted:

It'll be ok! I'm kinda curious what the car thread link says, depending on the state the EV subsidies can be really drat nice. I think in colorado you can get up to ~17K off if you qualify for everything. 7.5K from federal, 5K from state, 5K from the utility if your income qualifies. I don't think the leaf qualifies for the whole federal subsidy anymore, but it *could* still be ~15K new. Kinda hard to beat.

i will report back regarding what that thread says. For edification and enjoyment, and because part of it is in response to your post, here is what I just posted in the car buying thread using the form in that thread’s op

Proposed Budget: 20-30k
New or Used: Either, ugh, I don’t know
Body Style: 4 door suv or crossover
How will you be using the car?: Family of two adults for occasional in town trips during the week, no regular commute. The real big heavy use is weekend warrior expeditions to trailheads for hiking. Cargo space for car camping is also needed. We would like to get a dog.
What aspects are most important to you? reliability, ground clearance, awd.
Alas we are in a condo with one parking space and no convenient way to run a plug that isn’t a fifty foot extension cord, so chasing ev rebates doesn’t seem attractive
My personal dream car is probably something like a 4runner, in the form of a reliable 4wd that fears no forest road, but that is likely not an affordable dream.

Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer

Natty Ninefingers posted:

i will report back regarding what that thread says. For edification and enjoyment, and because part of it is in response to your post, here is what I just posted in the car buying thread using the form in that thread’s op

Proposed Budget: 20-30k
New or Used: Either, ugh, I don’t know
Body Style: 4 door suv or crossover
How will you be using the car?: Family of two adults for occasional in town trips during the week, no regular commute. The real big heavy use is weekend warrior expeditions to trailheads for hiking. Cargo space for car camping is also needed. We would like to get a dog.
What aspects are most important to you? reliability, ground clearance, awd.
Alas we are in a condo with one parking space and no convenient way to run a plug that isn’t a fifty foot extension cord, so chasing ev rebates doesn’t seem attractive
My personal dream car is probably something like a 4runner, in the form of a reliable 4wd that fears no forest road, but that is likely not an affordable dream.
If your primary use is weekend warrior poo poo, and finances are a concern, I would suggest taking a serious look at whether you actually need to buy a car or not. You can rent a car for $250 a weekend, which even if you did it 12 times a year, is only $3000. Take a look at the cost of car payments, parking (if you have to pay for it where you live), maintenance, insurance, registration, etc. If your space belongs to you, you may be able to rent that out since you're not using it as well. Do a count of how many times you actually went out and needed a car last year, factor in cost of rentals. You should definitely factor in convenience, but don't forget to also factor in Saturdays spent at the mechanic's shop or dealer's.

You can also just try it for a couple of months, go without a car, see how it goes; if you decide you want to buy a car after not having one for awhile, it's way easier to do than it is to get rid of a car if you decide you don't want one after buying it. I think people are inclined to just dismiss the idea out of hand, but I managed to save up my down payment on a house largely by just not having to pay for a car; the financial impact is really, really loving huge.

Natty Ninefingers
Feb 17, 2011

Ham Equity posted:

If your primary use is weekend warrior poo poo, and finances are a concern, I would suggest taking a serious look at whether you actually need to buy a car or not. You can rent a car for $250 a weekend, which even if you did it 12 times a year, is only $3000. Take a look at the cost of car payments, parking (if you have to pay for it where you live), maintenance, insurance, registration, etc. If your space belongs to you, you may be able to rent that out since you're not using it as well. Do a count of how many times you actually went out and needed a car last year, factor in cost of rentals. You should definitely factor in convenience, but don't forget to also factor in Saturdays spent at the mechanic's shop or dealer's.

You can also just try it for a couple of months, go without a car, see how it goes; if you decide you want to buy a car after not having one for awhile, it's way easier to do than it is to get rid of a car if you decide you don't want one after buying it. I think people are inclined to just dismiss the idea out of hand, but I managed to save up my down payment on a house largely by just not having to pay for a car; the financial impact is really, really loving huge.

250 every other weekend, if not more, including several long weekends, plus one full week a year does not nearly pencil out as well, I think. You also can’t chain a rental.

I do need to thank you for your ongoing Seattle transit evangelism. It is due to the efforts of sperging nutballs like you that my family has as much stable income as it does.

That being said, transit in Seattle is still not a replacement for having a car for everyone. The time sink involved with east west movement in particular would likely threaten the viability of several activities that we like.

I really should get granular with finances, though it is not my strong suit. Suffice it to say right now that even with new mortgage/tax/housing expenses we still have substantial savings built up while still saving about 1100 a month. That number will even increase slightly in about a month, retroactive a few months back. It’s a question of what balance of cash and finance we want to go with.

Antillie
Mar 14, 2015

Motronic posted:

And then the price of the car will be higher.

Dealers don't make money selling cars anymore. They make money on financing. If you're not financing with them you will pay more, full stop.

You're better off taking their finance offer (negotiate it of course) and then immediately scumbagging them by refinancing with your bank.

Now I really want to do this the next time I buy a car. Go in, get the best financed deal I can (with no pre payment penalty), then gently caress them over by paying off the loan a week later since I was really a cash buyer all along.

Antillie fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Dec 6, 2023

Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer

Antillie posted:

Now I really want to do this the next time I buy a car. Go in, get the best financed deal I can, then gently caress them over by paying off the loan a week later since I was really a cash buyer all along.

I've heard this is a good way to get hard hosed on dealer servicing.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Antillie posted:

Now I really want to do this the next time I buy a car. Go in, get the best financed deal I can, then gently caress them over by paying off the loan a week later since I was really a cash buyer all along.

That's what I did the last time I bought from a dealership. Some people still think going "I'm paying CASH" is some masterful negotiation tactic/bargaining position and it's just not.

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Antillie
Mar 14, 2015

Ham Equity posted:

I've heard this is a good way to get hard hosed on dealer servicing.

I have literally never taken a car to a dealer for servicing in the past 20 years.

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