Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

IncredibleIgloo posted:

What does [a metallic Speedpaint] do or work like then? I have not had a chance to use them.

regular paint. i'm not really sure what the difference even is

Prawned posted:

I have an army painter skeleton bone primer spraycan, and I thought I was just using it wrong somehow cause it mostly gives dusty/grainy results, whereas the normal hardware store stuff and citadel sprays haven't given me any issues.

Good to know I should just throw it out rather than committing to bumpy miniatures.

quote:

lots of other complaints about army painter spray primer

contact AP, they recalled a bunch of their spray paints

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Mine are from years ago and honestly a couple of them corroded to where the paint formed a tumor trying to leak out of the can.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

I still think it's funny that army painter started out just selling relabeled cans of minwax polyshades during the dipping craze of the mid 2000s and grew into an industry behemoth

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
Vincey V did a video about Speedpaint metallics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2A6Uq78huwE. tl;dr: he likes them quite a bit.

Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]
Comparison is the thief of joy, but boy do I love comparing my models to the ones done by professionals with decades of experience....

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

That mean's you're not looking closely enough to notice the flaws, or looking at your own a bit too closely.

Also you don't know exactly how much time and effort went into making them look like that.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
It seems like more of a mental thing where you're too quick to observe your own flaws rather than see what they did well and take those ideas for your own

Chill la Chill
Jul 2, 2007

Don't lose your gay


Silhouette posted:

I still think it's funny that army painter started out just selling relabeled cans of minwax polyshades during the dipping craze of the mid 2000s and grew into an industry behemoth

I think this is why I've always been wary of army painter and I have vague memories this was the case but good to have some confirmation. I recall their first versions of their "real" items like paint were littered with problems since they actually had to make their own stuff. But otherwise it always felt like they're just reselling already existing items but that might just seem like the case since they've been playing "catch up" with selling more and different kind of hobby items.

I do buy their mixing balls since it's the kind of item where I've had problems with a couple brands before and I'm just sticking to it unless something major changes.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Chill la Chill posted:

But otherwise it always felt like they're just reselling already existing items

it's just a shitpost, wood stain is an entirely different thing

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Cease to Hope posted:

it's just a shitpost, wood stain is an entirely different thing

Weren't the AP dips in the tins actual wood stain (or some form of polyurethane varnish)? The Strong Tone in a tin and Strong Tone in a dropper aren't the same thing. The dropper was a conventional acrylic wash.

I remember the AP dip tins giving a super glossy finish, just like if you'd used wood stain.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Chill la Chill posted:

I think this is why I've always been wary of army painter and I have vague memories this was the case but good to have some confirmation. I recall their first versions of their "real" items like paint were littered with problems since they actually had to make their own stuff. But otherwise it always felt like they're just reselling already existing items but that might just seem like the case since they've been playing "catch up" with selling more and different kind of hobby items.

I do buy their mixing balls since it's the kind of item where I've had problems with a couple brands before and I'm just sticking to it unless something major changes.

Army painter has really good tools and accessories, their hobby drill, wet palette, tufts, and scenery stuff are great. Really like them and never had a problem. Their Air Paints are great too, really like them. Their metallic colors are a lot of fun as well. Have not tried their speedpaints, but their new paint line, the fanatic, might be really good. Will have to try them out.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Z the IVth posted:

Weren't the AP dips in the tins actual wood stain (or some form of polyurethane varnish)? The Strong Tone in a tin and Strong Tone in a dropper aren't the same thing. The dropper was a conventional acrylic wash.

I remember the AP dip tins giving a super glossy finish, just like if you'd used wood stain.

they're both oil-based polyurethane mediums but wood stains use an oil that will migrate into wood to color it, either with the natural color of the oil or by carrying a pigment into the wood grain. they naturally have a yellowish cast. they also generally have additional plasticizers that make a tougher coat.

the dips are just solvent-based polyurethane with pigments in a clear medium. it's thinner, stickier, faster-drying, and considerably cheaper at the industrial level.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte
The only armypainter product I use is their washes, and like a lot of other people find them to be pretty great, they were made to ape the older style of citadel washes and accidentally made an arguably better product.

They are the “budget” supplier to the hobby tho, so it’s not really surprising their other lines are either bad to ok.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Speed paints are awesome with a pretty gnarly “but”

Use a separate palette and try to put down your normal acrylic colors first and that “but” goes away.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
I picked up some cheap artists drybrush set at a discount from a youtube link. Got them, they work well, and in a really nice case which includes a moistening pad and some brush cleaner. Using them for a month though I'm noticing some odd bristles coming loose, and one nasty surprise: they smell loving awful! I thought my dog had crapped in the room but it turned out to be the 13.5 size brush. When I told my wife she smelled it and immediately knew "Yeah, that's horse." So on the one hand yep it's natural hair, but on the other I had to bleach them because my painting desk smelled like a drat barn when I use them. Just a warning to all brush lickers out there.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
I am brand new to painting and I am clearly doing it wrong. I read about Citadel contrast paints and they sounded more beginner-friendly than regular ones (not needing to be thinned, getting stuff covered in one step) so I got some of those. I am painting some Adeptus Titanicus titans and I sprayed them with Citadel Wraithbone primer, and it looks like they have a good coat, but when I brush them with the contrast paint it kind of beads up like water on glass, and doesn't spread smoothly. I've used blue and black contrast paint and both have behaved similarly. I shook the primer a whole lot before spraying and I shook the paint before brushing it on. Any idea what I'm doing wrong here?

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
How long did you wait after you spray primed?

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!

Spanish Manlove posted:

How long did you wait after you spray primed?

Half an hour, 45 minutes maybe, on the initial attempt? But I tried again after a few hours and it did the same thing.

Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]
That sometimes happens to small parts of my models as well, same primer, and also using contrast paints. I just keep brushing away? The beads eventually begin to spread out and form a normal layer.

I think it's due to a much stronger primer coat that becomes too sleek for paint to set? Maybe someone more knowledgeable can explain.

Springfield Fatts posted:

I picked up some cheap artists drybrush set at a discount from a youtube link. Got them, they work well, and in a really nice case which includes a moistening pad and some brush cleaner. Using them for a month though I'm noticing some odd bristles coming loose, and one nasty surprise: they smell loving awful! I thought my dog had crapped in the room but it turned out to be the 13.5 size brush. When I told my wife she smelled it and immediately knew "Yeah, that's horse." So on the one hand yep it's natural hair, but on the other I had to bleach them because my painting desk smelled like a drat barn when I use them. Just a warning to all brush lickers out there.

Interesting. I've been using my Army Painter dry brush set and didn't notice any smell after a few hours of use, at least so far. I think mine are made out of goat hair.

Can anyone with goats and horses confirm?

Cardboard Fox fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Dec 9, 2023

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Glossy finishes give you a surface that's too smooth for paint to get any grip onto. Think water beading up on a raincoat.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
So did I get the wrong primer? I thought Wraithbone was what GW recommended for use with contrast paint. If the beading is normal and I just need to keep brushing at it until it smooths out, I can do that, but since I'm totally ignorant of all this stuff I figured better to ask.

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
Rules I was taught for spray priming:

shake hard for 3 minutes

make sure can is warm

don't do it in high humidity

let it dry for 24 hours

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Either the primer was a bad batch or maybe something went wrong when you sprayed it on. I forget if layers that are too thick and dry slowly can get more of a glossy finish. Posting some pictures might help us diagnose

Ominous Jazz
Jun 15, 2011

Big D is chillin' over here
Wasteland style

Ominous Jazz posted:

i will update this thread with what i do!!!



I started with this mini because I liked his details and personality. I'm real happy with it! i've been learning to control the speed painters paint better. (i intend to get away from speed painters paint)



I still need to give him a little base. I've been experimenting with basing with some mixed success




besides, a snowy environment doesn't really fit him.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Ominous Jazz posted:

I started with this mini because I liked his details and personality. I'm real happy with it! i've been learning to control the speed painters paint better. (i intend to get away from speed painters paint)



besides, a snowy environment doesn't really fit him.

He is looking great!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

That snowy base is awesome!

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Is it me or does the Vallejo grey primer look white?

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Lostconfused posted:

Is it me or does the Vallejo grey primer look white?

Yeah, I would say their grey primer is closer to grey seer as opposed to mechanics standard .

thin blue whine
Feb 21, 2004
PLEASE SEE POLICY


Soiled Meat
I'm sorry if I have a dumb question but I have a bit of space now and I want to start painting but not sure how I should store my spray paint cans. It's too hot in the summer to store them in the garage. Is it okay to keep them in a bin in my room at a reasonable temperature without worrying about giving myself (more) brain damage?

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

thin blue whine posted:

I'm sorry if I have a dumb question but I have a bit of space now and I want to start painting but not sure how I should store my spray paint cans. It's too hot in the summer to store them in the garage. Is it okay to keep them in a bin in my room at a reasonable temperature without worrying about giving myself (more) brain damage?

yea, its 100% safe to store aerosol cans anywhere inside that isnt inside of/next to/on top of a heat source.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
or somewhere they're likely to be punctured

they don't offgas or anything like that, though. I can't think of anything in the hobby that is a danger in a sealed container other than flammability/explosive risks

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

How do I get the paint thin enough for glazing without it pooling into a single drop when it leaves the brush.

Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

Lostconfused posted:

How do I get the paint thin enough for glazing without it pooling into a single drop when it leaves the brush.

Vallejo glaze medium. Hands down the best poo poo for this kind of application.

thin blue whine
Feb 21, 2004
PLEASE SEE POLICY


Soiled Meat

My Spirit Otter posted:

yea, its 100% safe to store aerosol cans anywhere inside that isnt inside of/next to/on top of a heat source.


Cease to Hope posted:

or somewhere they're likely to be punctured

they don't offgas or anything like that, though. I can't think of anything in the hobby that is a danger in a sealed container other than flammability/explosive risks

cool thanks

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Lostconfused posted:

How do I get the paint thin enough for glazing without it pooling into a single drop when it leaves the brush.

I thin exclusively with water, and the trick for controlling the glaze is to wick the majority off onto a paper towel before applying to the mini. It's all about having a controllable amount to work with on your brush.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

Radiation Cow posted:

I thin exclusively with water, and the trick for controlling the glaze is to wick the majority off onto a paper towel before applying to the mini. It's all about having a controllable amount to work with on your brush.

This was the huge eye opener for me when I learnt to glaze, you’re putting on the smallest amount of thinned paint with each pass, if it’s pooling or being thick in any way, you need to remove more off your brush.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

I think it applies to all paint consistencies. Having the bare minimum of paint on your brush is one of the ways of fast-tracking brush control, because you're not fighting paint splooging everywhere. And then you can focus on brush pressure, tip placement and all that other good stuff.

But yeah, if your paint is pooling during glazing, you need less paint. Applying a very thin, controllable layer also means that it dries super-quickly, so you can put on multiple layers relatively quickly without the need for a hair dryer or anything.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Lostconfused posted:

How do I get the paint thin enough for glazing without it pooling into a single drop when it leaves the brush.

Lahmian medium imo is superior to vallejo glaze (though pricier). Also like others have said, you really only need the bare minimum of paintf if you're glazing. Your brush shouldn't look "filled" at all.

If you're mixing paint and medium/water, wash your brush and re-load after you're done mixing. Resist the urge to use the leftovers on your brush on the model.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Lostconfused posted:

How do I get the paint thin enough for glazing without it pooling into a single drop when it leaves the brush.

The same way you do everything in this hobby: You watch Vince Venturella's incredibly detailed 20 minute video about it that answers all your questions and then you do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEcDL8mLZzo

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008


Grimey Drawer
I forgot to varnish after applying Dirty Down Rust effect. Turns out that putting GSW Frost effect on top of it gives a very heavy layered look to it.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply