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Urethane posted:Either the primer was a bad batch or maybe something went wrong when you sprayed it on. I forget if layers that are too thick and dry slowly can get more of a glossy finish. Posting some pictures might help us diagnose So here is a picture of a model I just did a few strokes on, with Ultramarine Blue contrast on one side and Black Templar contrast on the other, over Wraithbone primer  It beaded up and then got streaky. There's some Army Painter metallic on the back of the gun that seemed to stick a little better. Here's a tiny thing I primed and then sloshed with Space Wolf Grey contrast and some Army Painter metallic for the gun barrel. The metallic I'm satisfied with and the grey is...okay, good enough I guess, but it doesn't look right.  I did see when I looked online that some images of the Wraithbone spray specify that it's a contrast undercoat on the can, and some don't. The can I have doesn't say Contrast Undercoat, does that mean it's an old formula and isn't appropriate? I also have absolutely no idea how thick is the right thickness to spray primer on, is it supposed to be just a vague dusting or is it supposed to coat it fully? Is there a brush-on alternative primer? I'm willing to spend extra time versus a spray primer in order to eliminate a variable that's messing me up.
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Dec 10, 2023 16:35
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Kylaer posted:So here is a picture of a model I just did a few strokes on, with Ultramarine Blue contrast on one side and Black Templar contrast on the other, over Wraithbone primer Probably not related to the poor adhesion but your primer has gone on funny - there's lots of weird texture on the armour plates that shouldn't be there. Wraithbone is meant to be slightly "smooth" to encourage the contrast paint to flow (much like a gloss coat and oil washes) but the paint shouldn't bead up like that at all. The ultramarine blue looks like it's behaving properly though. Did you shake the black contrast thoroughly before use?
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Dec 10, 2023 16:46
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Electric Hobo posted:I forgot to varnish after applying Dirty Down Rust effect. Turns out that putting GSW Frost effect on top of it gives a very heavy layered look to it. drat, that looks gnarly in the best possible way.
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Dec 10, 2023 16:47
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It looks like you're priming from slightly too far away so some of the primer is drying in the air and then getting stuck to the wet primer on the mini, forming raised bumps. Either that or it's really dusty. You don't want to be too close, but if you're priming in a low humidity environment that paint can dry out fast.
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Dec 10, 2023 16:57
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i know it is slower, but I'd honestly recommend brush priming. It isn't foolproof, but it is so much easier to get consistent and trouble free results. Most people will want to spray, it is quicker, but if you are just learning it might help to have a less technical initial step. It is very hard to learn to paint if you have an incorrectly primed mini. Take this with a big grain of salt, spray priming is what the vast majority do, and they all figured it out, it isn't that hard.
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Dec 10, 2023 17:32
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Virtual Russian posted:i know it is slower, but I'd honestly recommend brush priming. It isn't foolproof, but it is so much easier to get consistent and trouble free results.  12 year old me had no sprays and brush priming did a better job trying to dissuade me from the hobby than my parents ever did.I wonder if OP is spraying too heavily and the weird texture is orange peeling. Try multiple thin coats?
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Dec 10, 2023 17:48
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Spraying from too far away is a definite possibility, I didn't hold a ruler up to measure how far away I was. Is there a brand of brush primer that's equivalent to the spray Wraithbone? I'll give it a shot alternating with retrying the spray.
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Dec 10, 2023 17:56
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I've never had those kind of issues with Wraithbone primer so something's weird there for sure.
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Dec 10, 2023 18:30
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Another possibility: If you start spraying directly at the mini you could be picking up paint that's pre-drying in the nozzle. If you're not already, try starting your spray away from the mini and sweep the path of the paint onto it.
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Dec 10, 2023 18:34
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PoptartsNinja posted:Another possibility: If you start spraying directly at the mini you could be picking up paint that's pre-drying in the nozzle. I am spraying right at the model so this is definitely something I'll try differently. I've been aiming, firing a short spray, then moving to another angle and firing another short spray, all directly at the model. Gravitas Shortfall posted:I've never had those kind of issues with Wraithbone primer so something's weird there for sure. This is a stupid question, but does your can have the "Contrast Undercoat" icon on it?  Mine doesn't, and I'm wondering if it's an actual different formula and that's why it isn't working.
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Dec 10, 2023 19:02
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I think that's just an "ad" for their contrast paints "use this before using your contrast paints!"
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Dec 10, 2023 19:23
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Kylaer posted:I am spraying right at the model so this is definitely something I'll try differently. I've been aiming, firing a short spray, then moving to another angle and firing another short spray, all directly at the model. It does yeah, I bought it a while back though. I don't know if newer cans have that icon
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Dec 10, 2023 19:30
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Does gloss varnish have any minor adhesive properties? Going to try to do some saliva effects using glass microbeads, but I'm not sure if I can place them in a little puddle of gloss varnish and have them stay in place or if I'd need to use some water effects or something. Superglue would cloud up, but maybe PVA glue could work instead as an alternative?
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Dec 10, 2023 20:48
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Water effects would be the best option out of that list for sure. Also that UV cured version so you could set it instantly while you hold the object in it.
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Dec 10, 2023 20:52
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After a month of messing around with miniatures, I'm not a big fan of the Citadel spray can primer. The chaos black I got goes on real nice and easy but it doesn't hold the paint as well as I would like. Several of my painted miniatures had paint rub off as I was working on them with the black primer layer showing through the base coat. Hopefully Vallejo does a better job.
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Dec 10, 2023 21:59
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Does gloss varnish have any minor adhesive properties? Going to try to do some saliva effects using glass microbeads, but I'm not sure if I can place them in a little puddle of gloss varnish and have them stay in place or if I'd need to use some water effects or something. Superglue would cloud up, but maybe PVA glue could work instead as an alternative? If you don't need a lot of body to the liquid then gloss varnish would be sticky enough to hold some lightweight objects in place. If you want more control then UV resin or water effect resin.
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Dec 10, 2023 22:49
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Kylaer posted:I am spraying right at the model so this is definitely something I'll try differently. I've been aiming, firing a short spray, then moving to another angle and firing another short spray, all directly at the model. Yeah you don't want to aim and fire, you should be pressing the nozzle pointed to the side of the mini and sweeping the spray over it. You can repeat this a couple times but if the paint gets too thick it will dry in a weird way like your example with the texture formed by paint crackle. This is one example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rdv9ShcapT4 I usually do two or three relatively thin coats off spray primer, but some people spray it on pretty thick. What's the temperature outside where you are spraying? If it's super cold or humid that could be interfering too. There's no different formula, the original wraithbone spray came out at the same time as contrast paints and was intended to be used as an undercoat. I doubt the formula has changed but the marketing words have.
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Dec 10, 2023 23:21
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 Finished the last ogroid  All the lads
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Dec 11, 2023 00:09
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that banner is sick
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Dec 11, 2023 00:10
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Virtual Russian posted:that banner is sick Thanks! This is the first time I freehand and I have zero experience with any 2d art so hearing that is great.
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Dec 11, 2023 00:32
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Urethane posted:Yeah you don't want to aim and fire, you should be pressing the nozzle pointed to the side of the mini and sweeping the spray over it. You can repeat this a couple times but if the paint gets too thick it will dry in a weird way like your example with the texture formed by paint crackle. Thank you, I'll try this. The day I primed these was sunny and cool (about 60F), I think that should be okay?
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Dec 11, 2023 00:48
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Kylaer posted:I am spraying right at the model so this is definitely something I'll try differently. I've been aiming, firing a short spray, then moving to another angle and firing another short spray, all directly at the model. The contrast undercoat is just part of marketing. Realistically, contrast paint should flow and apply over any standard primer from most companies. It just won't look good over anything much darker than wraithbone. Krylon and Rustoleum have primers that work for minis, so primer does not need to be specific for minis. When the paint beads up like that it typically means the surface repels water, hence why contrast beaded and the metallic applied better. Typically this is because of a rain proof or water resistant propert or sheen. Did you spray anything over the primer? The coat on the model looks a bit odd, making me wonder if the can is off somehow. I might strip the model and try with a different can or brand.
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Dec 11, 2023 08:24
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Lostconfused posted:After a month of messing around with miniatures, I'm not a big fan of the Citadel spray can primer. Krylon Camouflage is my favorite, though their color selection is limited. I’m going to grab a can of Sand for my Death Guard.
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Dec 11, 2023 11:59
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IncredibleIgloo posted:The contrast undercoat is just part of marketing. Realistically, contrast paint should flow and apply over any standard primer from most companies. It just won't look good over anything much darker than wraithbone. Krylon and Rustoleum have primers that work for minis, so primer does not need to be specific for minis. When the paint beads up like that it typically means the surface repels water, hence why contrast beaded and the metallic applied better. Typically this is because of a rain proof or water resistant propert or sheen. Did you spray anything over the primer? The coat on the model looks a bit odd, making me wonder if the can is off somehow. I might strip the model and try with a different can or brand. It's probably because I sprayed from too far away and/or because I started spraying aimed directly at the model. I'm going to try again but might not be able to for a while, it's going to be cold and wet here all week. I do appreciate the feedback and I'll update as soon as I can.
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Dec 11, 2023 12:08
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Kylaer posted:It's probably because I sprayed from too far away and/or because I started spraying aimed directly at the model. I'm going to try again but might not be able to for a while, it's going to be cold and wet here all week. I do appreciate the feedback and I'll update as soon as I can. Spray light coats. It's very easy to apply Wraithbone too thickly which will clog detail in addition to everything else. 2-3 thin coats is better than one thick coat. You won't get 100% coverage with 1 coat and if you try for it you will lay it on too thick
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Dec 11, 2023 12:37
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Getting back into regularly painting after a pretty long period where I'd paint <1 model per year with some Grey Knights. Started with a strike squad, and they aren't perfect but I tried to push a lot & learned a lot as a result.  Termies are still in early stages of base coating. I think they're going to turn out better overall & I'm getting a 'process' sorted out.  I argued with myself over whether to include the shields & quartering was scary but I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out.
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Dec 11, 2023 15:55
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Geisladisk posted:
Those are amazing. Also those models just need an upright bass, a microphone instead of an axe and they’d be an awesome jazz band.
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Dec 11, 2023 16:37
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Quick little review. If anyone is looking to brighten their work area, I bought the below set of two 2ft LED lights, and they are very good. Nice neutral color, very bright. You wouldn't be able to use them to light your entire hobby area, but if you want to increase the light of an airbrush booth or hung underneath a shelf to light your assembly area, they'd work perfectly. Nice and cheap too! https://www.amazon.com/Barrina-Fixt...148&sr=8-5&th=1 
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Dec 12, 2023 01:49
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  My first mini! I spent way more time on him than remotely makes sense for a basic infantry guy, but it's a learning experience, and dammit he looks cool to me. 
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Dec 12, 2023 05:04
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As long as you're having fun is what matters. I bought a combat patrol box more than a month ago and I'm still painting those miniatures.
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Dec 12, 2023 05:23
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The Lord of Hats posted:
He looks awesome! And especially for your first mini, those eyes are really good.
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Dec 12, 2023 05:37
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The Lord of Hats posted:
Gotta agree with Arcturas, those eyes are crazy for someone doing their first mini. That's a good job, and you should feel good for doing it. As for me, I finished my first Sister of Silence, for my Custodes kill team I'd posted here before.    I ended up going with a deep green for the tassels on the sides of the legs, on the recommendations of a couple of my coworkers, and I gotta say I like it better than the white they were before. Also went with a white sand base, hearkening back to Prospero's white sands, with the White Sand Desert of New Mexico as inspiration. It was honestly simple enough, with some light brown Vallejo thick mud, layer of Screaming Skull, Apothecary White all over, then drybrushed with White Scar. Even popped off my previously painted Custodes and changed the color of their bases as well. Probably could've just gotten away with some rough white pumice paste, but with the holidays and all I just didn't want to have something else to wait to get shipped, so  
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Dec 12, 2023 05:56
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The Lord of Hats posted:
That looks fresh! I like the eyes. Those are very hard for me.
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Dec 12, 2023 06:01
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The Lord of Hats posted:
This looks fantastic and you should be proud.
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Dec 12, 2023 06:50
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I just found the best rocks on my morning walk. They're tree debris of some kind, and conveniently chopped at the bottom so they stand nice and flat. So excited to use these in a diorama!
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Dec 12, 2023 07:19
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Radiation Cow posted:I just found the best rocks on my morning walk. They're tree debris of some kind, and conveniently chopped at the bottom so they stand nice and flat. So excited to use these in a diorama! Those are great! I’m not a wood working expert, but could you dry those out and then hit them with some varnish to keep them looking good?
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Dec 12, 2023 14:56
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They're already pretty dry. So the plan is to bake them on a low heat to kill all gribblies. Then hit them with some watered-down PVA to seal them and keep them intact. Once sealed, I can prime and paint them, or leave them as-is.
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Dec 12, 2023 15:06
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Are they proper stone pieces of petrified wood, or are they just super weathered and dried out chunks of dead wood?
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Dec 12, 2023 15:17
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I would just leave them as is
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Dec 12, 2023 15:17
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I've painted about twenty "retro Ultramarines" so far and I was hoping to get advice on a few things. The process I've settled on so far is:
Here's a few problems I'm having: Unlike the yellow, I don't have a shade for the red. I tried Drakenhoff but it looked like the guns were just stained, should I maybe go buy Caroburg Crimson? Or something else? Similarly, when trying to edge highlight the gun casings in orange I find it's not really noticable? Like I paint the edge, then I'm sitting there turning the models under the light, trying to even notice it. I want big, punchy highlights, almost garish. I want these models to "read" at table top distances, I'm not going for subtleties. The speed painter green is OK on the seals but the crusader flesh sucks, it never covers and always looked bad. I have Seraphim Sepia and Agrax Earth shade, maybe I should just base coat the seals in some peach color then give them a wash in Agrax? Similarly, with faces, I'm also struggling to get Guilliman Flesh to look at all right over white, am I using it wrong? Does it need to go over a peach? I'd really like a simple single coat contrast paint for the dark gun bits that should read as black; I tried speed painter grey and it's sort of adequate but I'd like something much darker and richer. I've tried black legion contrast and found it alternated between a too light grey and a gooped on mess, maybe that's just an execution error? Anytime I tried painting them a conventional black I struggled to edge highlight in grey without it looking too harsh. Maybe I need an off black and then hit it with Nuln Oil?
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Dec 12, 2023 15:59
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