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Neddy Seagoon posted:Please, please let it happen. Don't tease me with the knowledge people want a MEGAS Moderoid as much as I do. Well, you dig giant robots. And I dig giant robots too. We all dig giant robots.
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Dec 12, 2023 14:22
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Nuebot posted:Big Duo is a really rad design.
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Dec 12, 2023 16:18
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Big Duo is the coolest loving design in a show with a lot of cool loving designs. I'm sure this question has been asked and answered a million times already, so forgive me for being obnoxious here, but how do moderoids rank vis a vis a bandai mastergrade? My guess is that they'll look worse unpainted and might need some sanding and such, but is there anything else? Like, is the plastic quality noticeably worse?
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Dec 12, 2023 17:23
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So yeah, I've had a busy couple weeks, and I'm catching up. :-) Foglet posted:I finally gave in this November and ordered both the RG Epyon and the RG Hi-Nu. I'm doomed. May plastic gods have mercy on my poor plastic loving soul. You made good decisions here. Tin Tim posted:Yeah doing an old kit like that sure is an experience. I'm currently finishing a kit that was molded in the 80s and I can absolutely feel what you are describing. Especially when it comes to joints and weird little assemblies. I have some bandai "models". And... yeah. The 1997 MG GP-01 I have here is pretty.. weedy? I mean it's a good attempt at a Gundam, but definitely not what I'd expect of a MG now days. I think I have a few macross models that are bandai in origin, and ... boy they're tough to build. kirbysuperstar posted:i built a datsun bluebird 1600 kit and it w*snip* Nuebot posted:Man, I want that Crossbone X-2 kit. Nuebot posted:Over all I really liked the build. I imagine it's very similar to most zaku/gouf style things. I honestly haven't built that many, beyond some old gouf custom and gouf flight type kits (which still owned). The stickers kind of blow and not unlike the nightingale, there's a minor problem of the soft plastic clear bits of the heat blades being slightly curved which I think is just packaging issue, I know a few other kits I've had, have had slightly curved beam sabers and stuff too. Stickers aside I think it looks really neat and if they ever like, just released an updated kit I'd buy it in a heartbeat. Hmmpf, two quotes in a row? *shakes head* So... this is why I keep paint pens around. Those edge stickers are really awful, and even if you do them perfectly they always seem to want to back off. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HLQFQ5F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are amazing, I love them. But you can do a lot of other things. Digihazard posted:Back from the ~best holiday ever~ and now that everything's stacked up and not across a few suitcases, I think I might have a problem That RG unicorn, is the same one I built. I ended up needing to rebuild a few parts like.. three times.. becasue the special bit of it, is mostly a color swap. Pay really close attention when doing the backpack. Also, exercise the arm joints before you put to much armor on them. ... I have the full armor RG unicorn in my backlog. I'm excited to give it a try. Deviant posted:i asked a question in r/gunpla basically consisting of "are there any gotchas i should be aware of before i start my PGU RX-78?" Jackasses. You could always try watching Adam Savages video? I'm starting my MGEX tonight, and i'm using Mecha Gaitzoku's video as my guide.
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Dec 12, 2023 17:40
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Nerobro posted:Jackasses. Yeah, he gets a lot of help from gunpla experts cutting etc, i didn't see anything too weird though.
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Dec 12, 2023 17:56
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Deviant posted:i asked a question in r/gunpla basically consisting of "are there any gotchas i should be aware of before i start my PGU RX-78?" There's nothing to worry about before starting the PGU RX-78-2. It's a fantastic kit that works perfectly. The metal sticker things on mine didn't come off the backing very well, so I had to scrape off some green stuff before putting them on. Don't know if that's universal. It comes with sticker decals, so it might be a good idea to buy third part water slides for it.
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Dec 12, 2023 18:02
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Schwarzwald posted:Big Duo is the coolest loving design in a show with a lot of cool loving designs. I can only speak for the Big O kit, but it's between HG and MG in complexity. No internal frame, but more involved than a standard HG. Color separation isn't as good, but some come with pre-painted parts. Size is also comparable to a MG (or bigger). Plastic quality is on par with Ban Dai's. I had a better time building it than the few Kotobykiya kits I've built if that means anything.
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Dec 12, 2023 21:35
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Skrillmub posted:There's nothing to worry about before starting the PGU RX-78-2. It's a fantastic kit that works perfectly. I hate doing water slides, so I'm going to pass on that, but good to know otherwise. meanwhile, i love my large adult son: 
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Dec 12, 2023 22:36
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Deviant posted:I hate doing water slides, so I'm going to pass on that, but good to know otherwise. Man... I was in the exact same boat. But, I think I finally figured them out. My whole life I was convinced I had to soak them in water then slide them off. Now? I get them wet, then lay the sheet of paper on paper towels, and I can use tweezers to get the decals off. I was only able to do one decal at a time. Now I can do.. dozens.
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Dec 12, 2023 22:50
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Nerobro posted:Man... I was in the exact same boat. But, I think I finally figured them out. My whole life I was convinced I had to soak them in water then slide them off. Now? I get them wet, then lay the sheet of paper on paper towels, and I can use tweezers to get the decals off. i always saw it as cutting it out, letting it float in water, and then it'd slide off naturally but they frustrated me as a kid and i'm not sure i'm ready to love again that said, i did all of Goldy's silver bits with a paint marker and that was loving life changing Deviant fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Dec 12, 2023 |
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Dec 12, 2023 22:51
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Nerobro posted:Scalemates has made my life so much better... Looking for models made since like.. 2000 makes a huge difference. Not that there weren't good models made in the 1970's or even 60's, but they were few and far between. And many of them, if they're still around today, are in horrifically worn out shape. Oh that is very handy! https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hasegawa-20651-datsun-bluebird-1600-sss-custom-wheel--1487286/timeline Sadly the Hasegawa 1600 seems to have been first made in 2020 so I think they're just loving incompetent lol
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Dec 12, 2023 22:58
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I finished cutting, filing, and dry snap fitting all of the parts of the MG Epyon today to prepare for painting. I have painted 40k models and on canvas, wood panel, and paper before plenty, but never a gundam. Painting in sub-assembly is how I roll with space marines, but never on this level. I have an Iwata Eclipse airbrush and tank already. I am getting a spray booth and PPE this or next week. I've been trying to learn what I can about Mr. Color paints. I want to paint the wine red parts in a metallic dark red and likely the black pieces in a dark gunmetal and the skeleton in a dull metallic color. Is Mr. Color just that far and above what Tamiya equivalent paints are? And are there colors out of the pot that would satisfy my needs?
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Dec 12, 2023 23:06
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I thought I'd hate doing slides but yeah, realizing you only have to dip them for a couple seconds, then I just rest the tweezer with the slide on the plastic the sheet came in while I applied an initial bit of mark set, and in another couple seconds, it just slides off with a toothpick. I actually ended up really enjoying the process, and it's actually a bit easier to deal with than stickers because you can move them around on the model for a bit before it sets.
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Dec 12, 2023 23:13
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Star Man posted:I finished cutting, filing, and dry snap fitting all of the parts of the MG Epyon today to prepare for painting. I have painted 40k models and on canvas, wood panel, and paper before plenty, but never a gundam. Painting in sub-assembly is how I roll with space marines, but never on this level. Mr Color has a massive range of shades. Just from your description, theres a few options. Mr Metallic Color GX Bloody Red GX215 Mr. Color 78 Gloss Metallic Black Mr Color Steel Mr Color 28 Metallic Steel
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Dec 12, 2023 23:15
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Waffleman_ posted:I thought I'd hate doing slides but yeah, realizing you only have to dip them for a couple seconds, then I just rest the tweezer with the slide on the plastic the sheet came in while I applied an initial bit of mark set, and in another couple seconds, it just slides off with a toothpick. I actually ended up really enjoying the process, and it's actually a bit easier to deal with than stickers because you can move them around on the model for a bit before it sets. So what's the process then? - cut the decal out of the sheet - dip in water for a few seconds to soak into the water - set onto a piece of scrap plastic - verify the decal is moving on its backing sheet - transfer the decal from the sheet to the model, adjust placement - gently cotton swab the excess water out without moving the decal
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Dec 12, 2023 23:22
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Mr Metal Color is way better than Tamiya metallics if you ask me, but it's really hard for either of those to beat Vallejo Metal Color. The thing I love about Mr Metal Color is you have to polish it, and anything you don't polish leaves behind a kind of matte residue that looks like grime/oil/shadow/etc. It's like instant weathering.
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Dec 12, 2023 23:27
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kirbysuperstar posted:Oh that is very handy! Woof. poo poo kits are still made today. I do ~models~ as well as Gunpla. And they're completely different things. Nearly as big of a difference as building ARF model airplanes and from sticks. Deviant posted:i always saw it as cutting it out, letting it float in water, and then it'd slide off naturally That's exactly how I saw it. And how I was doing it until just a few weeks ago. And, I totally get not wanting to be "there" again, but we might as well give you the tools so you're ready when you are. Paint pens are top tier magic. I have mentioned it before, but I'll say it again, with some paint pens, the HG Kyrios gives the MG a run for it's money.. with just paint pens. Silver stickers on joints and stuff on gunpla? That's a job for the metallic silver markers. It's great! Deviant posted:So what's the process then? Pretty close! First, decide what decals need to be left on paper. BIG ones should be cut out. Small ones leave them as groups, or big groups. - Soak decal(s) for a little bit - Move decal to a wet folded paper towel, this keeps things wet so you have time to work. (This, seriously, is life changing) - Apply decal solution to where you want decal Small decals: - Use tweezers to pick it up, and lay it down on the damp surface - Use "something" to move the decal and press it down. Stiff bristle brush works, or cotton swab.. but I have trouble with swabs moving things. Pressing down makes the glue kinda.. stick.. - Roll cotton swab over stuck decal to roll the water and set solution out from under it. Big decals: - Use a paintbrush to push the decal from the backing paper into ~about the right place~ - Adjust and press down the decal so it sticks. - Roll the cotton swab. Once the decal has set in place, I'll paint over once or twice with some softening solution, which makes the backing film dissolve and the decal will sit on almost anything at that point. ... and it goes remarkably quickly! Like I can sit down and do a whole "face" of a model in one go. Where I used to have to get the surface wet, place the decal, carefully mess around with the decal floating on liquids and settling down... It was a royal pain in the butt, and I could never figure out why my decal jobs took days. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Dec 13, 2023 |
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Dec 12, 2023 23:58
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Deviant posted:So what's the process then? -Cut the decal out -Dip it in water for a few seconds -Set onto scrap plastic -Brush a bit of Mark Setter on where I want to place the decal -Verify the decal is moving -Push the decal onto the model and adjust with a toothpick -I press the cotton swab onto the side and hold it there to naturally soak up the excess water without needing to rub the decal too much -Put another light coat of Mark Setter on top to further soften the decal's edges and let it sit for a bit -Swab off excess
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Dec 13, 2023 00:31
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Speaking of Mark Setter, do I only need to break out Mark Softer for extra-troublesome decals? I got a bottle of it alongside Setter and I'm about to start building the Zeta ver Ka.
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Dec 13, 2023 01:14
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Ibblebibble posted:Speaking of Mark Setter, do I only need to break out Mark Softer for extra-troublesome decals? I got a bottle of it alongside Setter and I'm about to start building the Zeta ver Ka. That's not as necessary, but it's good to use once the decal is in position if there are panel lines or 'steppes' to get everything flush with the surface
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Dec 13, 2023 01:20
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I got my Hasegawa Queadluun-Rau assembled!   It's a pretty nice kit, but this is gonna need a good deal of work, there are pretty severe seams on the backpack, shins and forearms. I've got to keep in mind that Hasegawa came from making vehicle scale models and have to treat this with that kind of care. The proportions are really good and it's definitely hitting all of the design elements of the DYRL? Queadluun.    I've got my old-as-hell resin kit, I kind of wish the Hasegawa kit was a bit more round/organic looking in places. Also, the backpack feels a tad too small. But that's my view on the original design.  Gonna paint this in Max's colors once I'm on vacation, even got the paint while I was in Tokyo in October! EDIT- Demi for scale 
Queadlunn fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Dec 13, 2023 |
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Dec 13, 2023 01:23
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 I put together a robit
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Dec 13, 2023 03:35
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Is the rear horse torso (horso?) detachable?
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Dec 13, 2023 03:40
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Managed to work up the courage and found the time to build that 30 MM Sponatio Knight    Lessons Learned: taking off/clipping the numbs after taking a piece off a runner. I tried scrapping with the knife or using a sand file but it never came out good. Not sure if I need specific clippers or file for that. The pauldrons are also a little loose Overall I’m happy though. It took a couple of hours the last two nights to put together. I kind of want to start Valimar next, but I might have to get paint for the pieces and paint them before clipping them off, as well as learning a better way to file down nubs without messing with the piece SgtSteel91 fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Dec 13, 2023 |
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Dec 13, 2023 03:50
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Arc Hammer posted:Is the rear horse torso (horso?) detachable? Basically. It's pretty much a barbatos with its head up another barbatos's rear end
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Dec 13, 2023 04:01
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SgtSteel91 posted:Not sure if I need specific clippers or file for that. the kind of clippers you want are specifically "side cutters". the blades should be tapered on only one side and flat on the other, like this:  most wirecutters etc you'll have laying around the house are center-cut instead, meaning both edges of the blade are tapered. this makes it worse for jobs like cutting off nubs because you can't get the cutting edge flush with the surface. but if you bought any kind of hobby nippers you probably already have the right kind. the file I use is this one and it works perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FFDLFYX but if you have sandpaper around you can use that as well, you'll want grits from about ~600-800ish to 2000. if the file you already have is scratching up the surface, doing a once-over with high grit sandpaper to polish it up again can work fine too. also congrats on your first build!
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Dec 13, 2023 04:17
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Thanks! I bought this tool kit so I'm pretty sure I have the right kind of side cutters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LB1T5D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 But I'll definitely buy that file you linked
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Dec 13, 2023 04:22
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SgtSteel91 posted:Thanks! Time for us to improve your modeling life. Those nippers.. are.. wire cutters. They have steep angles on them designed to be durable cutting metal. They retail for $2-3. You can do a good job with them, but you don't clip "the model" you clip the runner, then you clip close to the model, then you file it. It's a process... and I wouldn't wish that on anyone. They also crack. Buy one of these: $7.50 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RW8VTSX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 IGAN-330 These are sharp, strong, and will last your modeling lifetime. $17.50 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0894TVBYN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Stedi MS-100 These are what I gift people I care about. They are good enough. They are as much better than the IGAN as the IGAN are better than the noname wire cutters. $25.50 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BF4JKZDK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Stedi MS-106 These will let you get away without sanding or finishing nubs in most cases. I run the backside of a knife blade over a nub and then it's no longer a thought for me.
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Dec 13, 2023 04:48
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Nerobro posted:Time for us to improve your modeling life. Those nippers.. are.. wire cutters. They have steep angles on them designed to be durable cutting metal. They retail for $2-3. You can do a good job with them, but you don't clip "the model" you clip the runner, then you clip close to the model, then you file it. It's a process... and I wouldn't wish that on anyone. They also crack. Good to know, thank you!
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Dec 13, 2023 04:52
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Queadlunn posted:I got my Hasegawa Queadluun-Rau assembled! Thanks for posting it! Looks like a great chonker of a kit.
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Dec 13, 2023 04:57
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Trying to fit X-mas gifts into the closet where I keep my backlog has made me make an early New Years Resolution: no more buying kits until I finish the backlog. Between P-Bandai and Suruga-ya free shipping weekends, I've amassed an unhealthy 64 kits in my backlog with another 17 on pre-order. I simply cannot build fast enough to outpace pre-orders arriving, and I don't want to be one of those folks with a room-sized backlog. Even the closet is too much. FOMO is a helluva thing that I just have to get over, especially since even P-Bandai stuff gets reprinted these days. Sorry for the somewhat seriouspost, but now I finally understand the true meaning of "plastic crack" in toy-collecting circles. At least I don't have anything arriving past April 
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Dec 13, 2023 05:06
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SgtSteel91 posted:Overall I’m happy though. It took a couple of hours the last two nights to put together. I kind of want to start Valimar next, but I might have to get paint for the pieces and paint them before clipping them off, as well as learning a better way to file down nubs without messing with the piece You definitely want to paint Valimar on the runners, it has some small pieces with tiny filigree. Paint also works well to hide shallow nubs. 
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Dec 13, 2023 05:33
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What specific paint should I get for it? Bout to give myself an early Christmas gift
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Dec 13, 2023 05:43
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Nerobro posted:I think.. I have the RG clear edition. It's built, but not decaled... PM me? It's yours. I'm good, I'm probably going to buy one of the kits off of suruga-ya eventually, the prices weren't too bad at least. But who knows, maybe p-bandai will surprise me by bringing it back before I get around to it. Thanks for the recommendation though, I actually should check some of those markers out one day because I really, really, do hate edge stickers especially for exactly the reasons you listed! I can't imagine myself getting full on into painting or anything any time soon, but being able to cut out the pain in the rear end of stickers would be nice. Deviant posted:I hate doing water slides, so I'm going to pass on that, but good to know otherwise. Hell yeah, now they need to make kits for the rest of the GGG.
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Dec 13, 2023 06:26
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okay so i need some mark setter and...softener?
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Dec 13, 2023 06:41
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Or similar. Mr Mark Setter and Softer are basically the best at making sure it stays put and melts flat. for me I've been using Vallejo's equivalents because I cant find any mark setter online or in store here unless I do overseas orders lmao
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Dec 13, 2023 08:31
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Antoine Silvere posted:gotta save room for all those loving secret santa posts Whoa, the shading on the Lfrith Ur looks amazing! And the collar on the Michaelis is clean, impressive work.
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Dec 13, 2023 10:41
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Deviant posted:okay so i need some mark setter and...softener? I like micro set and micro sol. They're about $4.50 a bottle, and.. are american? It feels good to put money back into the hobby market here. Nuebot posted:Thanks for the recommendation though, I actually should check some of those markers out one day because I really, really, do hate edge stickers especially for exactly the reasons you listed! I can't imagine myself getting full on into painting or anything any time soon, but being able to cut out the pain in the rear end of stickers would be nice. And you'll find reasons to use them all the time. Insides of boosters, "panel lining" things in strong colors. I should dig out my MG GP-01, I did a bunch of color correction on it with pens and it really made it better. You really don't need the variety of color, but it's ~really nice~ to have it.
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Dec 13, 2023 16:14
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I also wouldn't say you need it but it's not too expensive and nice to have Also even with the optimal methods, a waterslide session can still be pretty time consuming and not super stimulating, so have like a podcast or some Netflix on or something
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Dec 13, 2023 16:24
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Nuebot posted:Thanks for the recommendation though, I actually should check some of those markers out one day because I really, really, do hate edge stickers especially for exactly the reasons you listed! I can't imagine myself getting full on into painting or anything any time soon, but being able to cut out the pain in the rear end of stickers would be nice. *Laughs in over a dozen metallic markers*
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Dec 13, 2023 17:29
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