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yeah the sandpaper gumminess is the killer. you'll have to change pads more often than you think and it's just a loving mess. just shave it off w a big knife  e: Meow Meow Meow posted:Yeah I've had much better luck getting finish off with an edge tool vs sandpaper. Card scraper, Stanley #80 cabinet scraper or a handplane do a nice job where sandpaper gets gummy. agreed im not convinced by the appearance it's solid wood but its only 2 pics and i don't know for sure
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Dec 9, 2023 04:28
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Hmm yeah. It definitely has 1/4 inch edge banding  I suppose it could be ply and veneered on both sides Here's the unstained side: 
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Dec 9, 2023 04:33
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If the banding is solid wood you're good to sand or plane, we are talking about more like the iron/glue on paper thin edge banding style stuff commonly used on plywood but that looks more like some sort of mitered, boring molding? someone else confirm im no expert. those pics make me lean more towards solid wood now
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Dec 9, 2023 04:42
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Vim Fuego posted:I'm thinking of making a record cabinet out of this old tabletop. E: oops didn’t see the new page. Yes that is absolutely cherry veneered plywood. The finish is some real crazed lacquer or poly or possibly conversion varnish, none of which are particularly pleasant to strip. If it’s plain old nitrocellulose lacquer, it won’t be too bad to strip chemically but poly or CV are a pain and will have to be stripped mechanically which leads us back to my original reply. Basically stripping this thing is going to be a fuckton of fairly miserable work to salvage a (damaged) $150 sheet of plywood. But maybe you think that sounds like a cool adventure or it’s sentimental or somethin! If so, get some lacquer thinner and pour a little on the table top and let it sit for a minute. If it softens the lacquer (or better yet, let’s you scrape it off) it shouldn’t be too bad to strip either with just straight lacquer thinner (smelly, kinda dangerous, slow, do it outside for sure) or with a stripper made for lacquer. I used to use Kutzit or stripeeze from savogran but they had to take the good stuff out of non-industrial stripper a few years ago and I haven’t tried them since, and and thankfully I don’t do refinishing anymore anyway. IF it’s lacquer and you can strip it chemically, that’s your best chance of not sanding through the face veneers, and there’s a good chance a lot of the color will come off too. If it’s colored with a dye (probably at least partly is) instead of a pigment, bleach or oxalic acid will usually remove that. BUT now you’re spending $75 in stripper, sandpaper, gloves, goggles, etc to save a $150 sheet of plywood. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Dec 9, 2023 |
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Dec 9, 2023 05:32
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Hah, not that married to this! Given it's not solid wood I'll just use it for scrap in projects. Maybe I can use a chunk of the unstained part for something. I'm glad I asked!
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Dec 9, 2023 09:19
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Me again, with a different wood-related project: Making a rain barrel for my MiL as a Christmas gift, she hates plastic stuff so bought a used spirits barrel on Marketplace to convert. My plan is pond liner on the inside, add a spigot on the bottom (and an overflow valve up top), plus a mesh screen to keep mozzies out. Since it's going to be outside I want to try and weatherproof the exterior wood as best I can, can anyone recommend a stain/sealant (and roughly how much I should look to buy)? It already seems to be a bit weathered, so techniques/products to help bring it back a bit would also be great to have some recommendations on! Was thinking from the Tool Library I'd want to grab an orbital sander for the wood and maybe a Dremel for polishing up the metal hoops. I do have some leftover urethane sealant, would that work on the metal?
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Dec 9, 2023 23:57
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so the way a traditional oak barrel is built is the wood is assembled slightly loose and the hoops are driven on, and when you fill it with liquid the wood swells a bit to tighten up and seal. There's no glue or anything holding the staves together. So you're right to get a liner, but I dunno how you'll protect the bit of wood under the hoops unless you remove the hoops, and if you do that you're rapidly going to have a pile of barrel staves. IMO just install it like it is and accept the natural weathering. If you really wanna, though, marine spar varnish is the best for preserving wood subject to lots of UV and wet. Second after that is I guess deck sealant, fence sealant, the stuff they sell in a gallon bucket at the home center for slapping all over your wood deck or fence. Since it's a lot of wood I would go that way rather than spending a ton on the amount of epifanes you'll need. If you sand it first that's fine but again I don't think you can sand beneath where the hoops are. I imagine it'd take a million years to polish those hoops with a dremel. I'd chuck a wire wheel into a drill and see how that goes. e. I am also interested in how you will get the liner inside. Are you planning to cut the barrel in half?
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Dec 10, 2023 00:09
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Does it need a liner? It’s purpose in life was to store liquid.
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Dec 10, 2023 10:16
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I don't think the liner was to protect the wood, but rather the collected rainwater from the wood. I bought a barrel that was used to store olives and converted it, and the water definitely smelled like olives for a long time. Still does a bit.
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Dec 10, 2023 16:39
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If it's a white oak barrel I can't imagine it needs any protection on the outside either, isn't it basically imputrescible?
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Dec 10, 2023 19:13
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I dunno, barrels can be a basis for fun projects. I've turned one into a nightstand, and another into a decorative waterfall/fountain thing for a friend, for example. Going off of those experiences, here's what I've got: 1) Maybe don't plan on using it for drinking? There is no universe in which the collected water won't taste weird, no matter what you do. Also potential for some fun exotic diseases. 2) It'll probably hold water just fine as-is, provided you seal up the bung hole (heh). It also might not, and a pond liner is going to be the most economical choice to keep it from leaking. 3) The efficient masochist knows to skip the Dremel, toss on some nipple clamps, and hit the hoops with a wire wheel and drill. Or just rub them with some wet-to-dry sandpaper if there's not a lot of schmutz. 4) If you pop a couple of hoops off, you can pry out the lid. Only remove half of the hoops at a time, and all on one side, or it will disintegrate. No, you will never get it back together right. Yes, even if you mark the staves in some kind of order. No, I don't know how coopers do it, either. 5) Once it's all back together and otherwise completely done, slap a bunch of spar urethane all over the outside, hoops and all. Untreated wooden barrels don't do great sitting outside in an uncontrolled environment, and it'll start looking pretty gross after the first rainy season. Post progress pictures! It might not be a bespoke cabinet with impossible marquetry, but it's still a cool project. Suntan Boy fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Dec 10, 2023 |
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Dec 10, 2023 19:43
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A neighbor/friend of mine just finished remodeling her kitchen and wanted a new dining table to go in it. She's not done much woodworking, but is a DIY type, so she asked if we could build one together. We just finished assembling it and got it into place this morning. It was fun teaching & getting to know each other better. We split the work about in half, I'd show her the technique, then let her work until her confidence waned or she wanted a break, and take over for a bit. She picked up on everything real quick, so it was a smooth & enjoyable project. I didn't think to take many pictures, but I put a few below. Pretty straightforward build: prep each board and glue them on one-by-one. Then cut the breadboard tenons and prep the mortise boards. Three dowels up through the bottom to hold it together. 6/4 red oak, breadboard ends. Four coats of shellac with a layer of clear paste wax on top. The base is metal and was purchased from Etsy (please don't judge; I've never done a pedestal or trestle table base, and she wanted it done before the heat death of the universe). Wood selection at the lumber yard:  Complete and awaiting finish:  All done:  
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Dec 10, 2023 19:45
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Nice work! That's a good table.
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Dec 10, 2023 19:47
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That's a nice & solid table. The base might be ehhh, but the lovely thing of these items is that you can always put a different one underneath at a later date.
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Dec 10, 2023 20:35
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Just Winging It posted:That's a nice & solid table. The base might be ehhh, but the lovely thing of these items is that you can always put a different one underneath at a later date. And work up some drawings, get the lumber and make it, get to know her even better....
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Dec 10, 2023 22:40
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Just wanted to show off a thing my dad made for us, based on a picture I took in Iceland  He gave me a legend of the wood types (it’s a lot) but I don’t know where it is atm
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Dec 11, 2023 01:25
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dupersaurus posted:Just wanted to show off a thing my dad made for us, based on a picture I took in Iceland Thats impressive as all hell. What a nice gift
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Dec 11, 2023 01:40
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dupersaurus posted:Just wanted to show off a thing my dad made for us, based on a picture I took in Iceland This is wild, what a cool gift. Does anyone have experience with benchtop bandsaws? My dad has had a full size one that’s been broken for probably fifteen years, and he’s accepted that he’s never going to get it fixed. He’s interested in the benchtop ones so he can cut various shapes out of wood that will probably max out at 2 inches thick, and usually be about an inch (not using it for milling or anything). Are they kinda like drill presses where they seem to all be the same machine from the same factory with maybe some tolerance differences? I’m thinking of getting him the Wen from Home Depot but want to hear if that’s a bad idea versus waiting for something to pop up on marketplace.
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Dec 11, 2023 04:33
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Schiavona posted:This is wild, what a cool gift. Good news for you and dad if you're in the US
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Dec 11, 2023 04:45
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Last night's project. Can't find our usual advent candle holder (a pretty cool looking porcelain one) so I threw this together from a piece of wood I had. Basically just planing/jointing, cutting and ripping. Then drilling and finally some handplaning before finishing with oil & wax. I tried to keep al the edges as sharp as I could. I bet that's not gonna last. Quick project though, less than an hour. Advent candles is a scandinavian tradition anyway starting the 4th sunday before christmas. Every sunday you light one more candle.
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Dec 11, 2023 10:12
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Schiavona posted:This is wild, what a cool gift. I think the general thread consensus (also my opinion) is that 3-wheel benchtop bandsaws are bad. Any idea what's ailing his old one? His Divine Shadow posted:Last night's project. Can't find our usual advent candle holder (a pretty cool looking porcelain one) so I threw this together from a piece of wood I had. Basically just planing/jointing, cutting and ripping. Then drilling and finally some handplaning before finishing with oil & wax. I tried to keep al the edges as sharp as I could. I bet that's not gonna last. Quick project though, less than an hour. That's really nice wood. Looks like teak to me.
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Dec 13, 2023 01:03
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Mr. Mambold posted:I think the general thread consensus (also my opinion) is that 3-wheel benchtop bandsaws are bad. Any idea what's ailing his old one. Three wheeled for sure, never heard anything about them that wasn't negative. There's plenty of two wheeled bench top bandsaws though that are probably ok for thinner stock but I can't spell much to them. For the price you'd pay for a decent bench top you can probably get an old 14" used if you keep your eyes peeled. To give you an idea I got a really nice Rikon 14" for $500 I want to say, and ran across a lot of listings for older ones cheaper than that. Unless space is a concern obviously. Definitely do wonder what's wrong with the old one though. If it's a generic stand up bandsaws there's not much to go wrong with them that can't be fixed.
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Dec 13, 2023 02:36
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I got a 10" Rikon for free, so for the price of a new blade and a new belt, it's great.
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Dec 13, 2023 04:11
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benchtop bandsaws tend to be bad because 1. the pulley system etc. take a fixed amount of space under the work area to do the job of a bandsaw, shrinking them way down and moving them up to the top of a table sacrifices a ton of performance for mostly just the illusion of space savings and 2. at a certain level of cheapness manufacturers start making actually important parts out of plastic, which will break in 3-4 years and you will have a hell of a time repairing or replacing. Jobsite table saws, say, have similar issues but at least the end result is portable enough that you can toss it in a truck and take it to a jobsite, I have never seen someone do this with a bandsaw. Three-wheels compound all the same problems by being overcomplicated to boot, and sometimes shrinking the pulleys past the point where they're shortening blade life. bandsaws tend to have a degree of parts commonality (mostly not down at the gimmick end ime, but half the 14" saws out there cribbed their consumables off the Delta-Rockwell 14") but they're not as standardized as drill presses, I wouldn't count on being able to find parts for an uncommon make. On the plus side most of the stuff on a bandsaw is low-impact enough that a decently handy person with a well-stocked shop could fabricate them A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Dec 13, 2023 |
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Dec 13, 2023 17:34
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milwaukee makes one that slays rear end. ive cut so much conduit and uchannel with this and its great
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Dec 13, 2023 20:44
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I just watched a video yesterday where a dude cut through like 6 inches of pecan with a benchtop rikon.
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Dec 13, 2023 20:49
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My Spirit Otter posted:milwaukee makes one that slays rear end. ive cut so much conduit and uchannel with this and its great those handheld ones do whip for metals
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Dec 13, 2023 21:30
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Some more progress on the darkbox: In hindsight I should have rotated the vertical pieces at the back 90 degrees so I wasn't using L-brackets for all the joins in the middle (I did this with the one I built previously but didn't think to do it this time), but it seems solid enough for my purposes. Had the thought several times that I really need to take some proper classes. I am hoping time and budget allow for a few next year when I get in-state residency. Too late now, but would dowels have been a good way to join this together or no? Going to Lowes later today and have a question about hinges: what do I want for one that goes a bit more than 180 degrees? It doesn't need to be much more, but due to the curvature of the hatch and height requirements of the silver tank, I'm having to use just a single piece of plywood for the lid sloping down at an angle. Suntan Boy posted:I dunno, barrels can be a basis for fun projects. I've turned one into a nightstand, and another into a decorative waterfall/fountain thing for a friend, for example. Going off of those experiences, here's what I've got: Will do on the project pics! Picked up a few odds and ends I needed at the Tool Library on Tuesday (wire wheel, chisel, crowbar, ratchet strap for keeping it together just in case) and going to start on it in the next few days.
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Dec 14, 2023 16:23
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I'm working on a dog pen rn. I can't remember if I posted about it before, but I'm in late stages now. The design is that it's going to be four frames, which attach or disassemble at the corners with half laps and carriage bolts (with home-made wooden knobs), and then the fence part is going to be metal cage panels which go into grooves in those frames with the same mechanism as a sliding panel door on a cabinet - a shallow groove at the bottom, deeper groove at the top, slide up, in, and down. Pretty much everything is built. I have a couple more grooves to do, but so far things fit nicely, and I'll probably start cutting the half laps and gluing things up this weekend. Anyway I've encountered a stupid, tiny problem in a later phase: I've found that the cage panels are a tiny bit more flexible than I'd like and doggy might just be able to headbutt them out if she's really persistent (she's big and goofy). I can probably mitigate this if I just have some kind of removable tab that I can set to keep the panel from popping out of place if the panel gets bent. If I really need to, I can do this with screws and aluminium tabs, or some other kind of hardware. The spaces between the cage bars are 1", and the grooves are 1/4 inch wide, and 3/8 deep at the bottom: I just need something to cover that gap, something which isn't too expensive or too much of a hassle to install a bunch of them. Given that I'm putting a lot of effort into making a nice wooden pen for my pretty doggy, I'd like these to be either wood, hard to notice, or nice to look at. I'd also like for them to be removed without tools. Suggestions?
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Dec 15, 2023 06:20
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CommonShore posted:Suggestions? Kind of hard to imagine exactly what you're describing without a picture or something, but can you not make the grooves deeper?
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Dec 15, 2023 16:16
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I think I get what he's saying. I'd probably try something like this https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Figure-Steel-Desk-Fastener/dp/B07QPT53W4. e: I missed the part about removing without tools, but I'm not sure why you would ever remove them?
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Dec 15, 2023 16:52
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Just banged out David Picciuto's wine bottle topper for a work 'rob your neighbor' holiday party. Super simple and quick! Took about an afternoon from making the template to finishing the final product (including throwing the first one across the shop in anger after my flush trim bit took a big bite out of it). 
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Dec 15, 2023 17:45
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I think I get what he's saying. Cleaning. Dogs can be gross. We learned this from the prototype. I'll make a diagram. Making the grooves deeper wouldn't solve the problem, I don't think. e.   Please forgive my messy shop I'm ashamed but that's the picture I have handy. That's just the picture I took when test fitting. CommonShore fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Dec 15, 2023 |
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Dec 15, 2023 18:06
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A C shaped clip that pops over the whole rail?
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Dec 15, 2023 20:36
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It looks like the grooves are only on the top and bottom pieces allowing the mesh panel to potentially bow out. You could reinforce it with vertical wooden strips attached to the fence grid. If you leave a gap at the top it could be removed with the fencing and just stay part of that panel.
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Dec 16, 2023 01:04
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Darkbox is coming along! (front panel was unscrewed so I could prop some pieces of wood under the lid to screw the piano hinge in place).  Basically a toy box right now, lol. The one I made out of a big plastic gear case back in Australia used a gas strut for the lid which in hindsight was a mistake (put stress on the whole thing when closed and eventually broke the admittedly flimsy plastic latches, despite picking the smallest one), so I used these simple folding metal support things which seem like they're going to work a lot better. We'll see if I've got the nerve to start the barrel this weekend. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Dec 16, 2023 |
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Dec 16, 2023 01:32
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Oh poo poo we have the same car in the same color. I dunno why I didn't realize that in other photos.
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Dec 16, 2023 02:27
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nostrata posted:It looks like the grooves are only on the top and bottom pieces allowing the mesh panel to potentially bow out. You could reinforce it with vertical wooden strips attached to the fence grid. If you leave a gap at the top it could be removed with the fencing and just stay part of that panel. Could also handle it like an inset panel cabinet door and put grooves on both sides instead of just one so that the vertical member can slide out like the mesh, though in both cases that probably changes the dimensions of the whole project.
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Dec 16, 2023 10:08
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Is there anything I can do to speed up offgassing from finished wood? I have a couple of small boxes that I put together today, which need to go into my luggage Monday evening. I've put one coat of urethane finish on, and will do another tomorrow morning, but my experience is that they'll still be pretty smelly by the time I have to pack.
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Dec 17, 2023 06:04
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It depends on the finish. If it's something oxygen hardening like linseed oil putting it in front of a fan to add "more" oxygen to it should speed it up. other ones cure faster w heat, UV light, etc. Or you could just use shellac when you need to stuff it in a suitcase. the world is your bug excrement urethane would probably cure faster w increased airflow
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Dec 17, 2023 06:06
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