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VelociBacon posted:I'm Canadian and don't know what Carmax is but if you paid for a warranty it makes sense to me that you should go through them. Why are they splitting the block to do camshaft seals? Those are in the head so it seems really strange to me, I'd assume it's basically like doing a timing chain since you have to remove the cam(s). CarMax is a US chain of used car dealerships. On one hand I bought the warranty, on the other hand I trust them about as far as I could throw them, but on the third hand I don't know if my mistrust is misplaced. I was wrong about splitting the block. I got that in my head from skimming a few nasioc threads to learn more about the issue.
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# ? Dec 12, 2023 08:44 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 09:34 |
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Safety Dance posted:CarMax is a US chain of used car dealerships. On one hand I bought the warranty, on the other hand I trust them about as far as I could throw them, but on the third hand I don't know if my mistrust is misplaced. Man really just use your Carmax warranty and be happy you bought it - this is a win for you!
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# ? Dec 12, 2023 09:25 |
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Safety Dance posted:CarMax is a US chain of used car dealerships. On one hand I bought the warranty, on the other hand I trust them about as far as I could throw them, but on the third hand I don't know if my mistrust is misplaced. I was under the impression that Carmax warranties are not dealt with in-house, in other words, they wouldn't be fixing your car personally. E.G. that one car blog guy that got the Land Rover or whatever with the Carmax warranty and kept getting it fixed at the LR dealership using his Carmax warranty. Also, you have multiple warranties on a new car. you have the common 3 year/36K mile bumper-to-bumper which covers everything, which waved bye to your car long ago. And you also have the drivetrain warranty, which for a Subaru covers the engine, transmission, and all-wheel drive and lasts for five years or 60,000 miles. The latter may easily apply to your car depending on what on the engine they cover, and when it was purchased.
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# ? Dec 12, 2023 13:11 |
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My brother why did you buy a warranty from a place you dont trust? What the hell? In what situation do you actually intend to use the warranty if not this one? If you want SoA to goodwill all or part of the repair (this is what the manufacture does when the car is just out of warranty and something breaks and they feel bad for you), you need to take it to a Subaru dealer. I would have a conversation with the dealer first before taking the car there. Since you bought the car used you dont really have a relationship with the local Subaru dealer so that will certainly not help you. Its worth a shot if for whatever reason you dont want to use the warranty you paid for.
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# ? Dec 12, 2023 14:26 |
Lama is correct, go here and put in your zip: https://repairpal.com/carmax At least in my area they have some decent shops
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# ? Dec 13, 2023 05:33 |
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Safety Dance posted:Additionally, I got suckered into buying the Carmax warranty when I bought the car. It seems more likely they could be persuaded to pay out, but I feel less than confident about whatever Carmax authorized service center doing engine-out work on my wife's car. Am I underestimating the average mechanic? CarMax MaxCare is just an off-the-shelf dealer warranty. You can use it at any shop that will work with a warranty company. It's very likely that even your local Subaru dealer will accept it. e: Just keep in mind it does have a lifetime max of around $15k, as well as a per-incident limit pegged to your trade-in value, like most extended warranties. But I doubt either of those are in play here. The bigger question is whether this falls under a covered failure (coverage on seals is complicated), and that's a question best answered by your contract/warranty company/mechanic after he calls the warranty company. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Dec 13, 2023 |
# ? Dec 13, 2023 17:19 |
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I have a 2019 Toyota Corolla that I bought new. It has a push button start, so no keyed ignition (my first car to have this feature). I had it in at the dealer a few months back for some factory recall or another, and they didn't find anything wrong with it at the time. However, since then, if my gas tank is under 1/4 tank, but not quite at the level where the "Get Gas, Idiot" light comes on, if I'm doing a big left turn, it seems to lose a bit of power until I straighten out and give it a little gas. Then it sounds and feels normal again. Twice, I have been at a similar low gas tank level, stop at a red light, and the engine just dies. I put it in park, hit the start button again, and everything is fine. It doesn't do this if I keep the tank above 1/4. I'm going to bring it in somewhere, but I was hoping to get some kind of idea of what this might be so I can be best prepared.
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# ? Dec 13, 2023 19:04 |
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Molten Llama posted:CarMax MaxCare is just an off-the-shelf dealer warranty. You can use it at any shop that will work with a warranty company. It's very likely that even your local Subaru dealer will accept it. theOctagon posted:Lama is correct, go here and put in your zip: https://repairpal.com/carmax Y'all are right, I'm worrying too hard about this. I'll start the process.
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# ? Dec 13, 2023 20:51 |
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I have a 2009 Ford Escape that seems to be suffering from a common issue where some part of the ignition lock housing wears out and doesn't consistently communicate you turning the key to the ignition switch on the other side of the steering wheel. I bought the replacement part, but it didn't come with the shear bolt (pictured in this image): I'm assuming the shear bolt is intended to make it harder to steal the car, but my car isn't particularly theft-worthy. Is there a downside to just finding a compatibly sized bolt and using that in place of a shear bolt? If I really need the shear bolt, is there a way to find the specification? The seller I got the replacement part from is being slow to respond, but they've offered a partial refund if I want to source the bolt myself.
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# ? Dec 13, 2023 23:22 |
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Danhenge posted:I have a 2009 Ford Escape that seems to be suffering from a common issue where some part of the ignition lock housing wears out and doesn't consistently communicate you turning the key to the ignition switch on the other side of the steering wheel. I bought the replacement part, but it didn't come with the shear bolt (pictured in this image): This I think is what you are looking for... https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/hardware-and-fasteners-71564-2/bolt-7820419-1 Part #: W302562S300
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# ? Dec 13, 2023 23:36 |
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CzarChasm posted:I have a 2019 Toyota Corolla that I bought new. It has a push button start, so no keyed ignition (my first car to have this feature). I had it in at the dealer a few months back for some factory recall or another, and they didn't find anything wrong with it at the time. However, since then, if my gas tank is under 1/4 tank, but not quite at the level where the "Get Gas, Idiot" light comes on, if I'm doing a big left turn, it seems to lose a bit of power until I straighten out and give it a little gas. Then it sounds and feels normal again. Twice, I have been at a similar low gas tank level, stop at a red light, and the engine just dies. I put it in park, hit the start button again, and everything is fine. It doesn't do this if I keep the tank above 1/4. What was the recall / did it involve your gas tank or fuel pump in any way? It sounds like fuel is sloshing away from the pickup in your tank. Or your level sensor is reading to high.
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# ? Dec 14, 2023 00:59 |
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Colostomy Bag posted:This I think is what you are looking for... Thank you!
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# ? Dec 14, 2023 03:08 |
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honda whisperer posted:What was the recall / did it involve your gas tank or fuel pump in any way? I didn't save the recall notice, so I had to look up previous recalls. Looking it up, there was a recall in 2020 for fuel systems/gas pumps on this make/model, but I don't think I was sitting on this for 2+ years. OTOH, pandemic conditions may have pushed things back. I'll call the service center I was at back and see if I can get some details. If my car was serviced for a fuel pump, and now I'm having this happen, something may have gone wrong. Thanks for the advice.
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# ? Dec 14, 2023 04:50 |
Stupid question for the stupid question thread - or maybe for the chat thread since its not a real car question. In Fury Road Furiosa calls the War Rig "2000HP of nitro boosted war machine" and yes it has two engines yada yada movie prop... But what would you actually choose as a base for a single engine that could run that sustained for minutes at a time? Some 9L big block? I am stuck with this invasive question while I'm at work.
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# ? Dec 14, 2023 17:32 |
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It would have to be a purpose built big block that's based on something like a gm, Ford or Chrysler motor. I'm pretty sure these days you can buy a whole "Chevy" engine that has absolutely zero parts produced by GM or any of its subsidiaries.
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# ? Dec 14, 2023 18:14 |
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GM bus engine
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# ? Dec 14, 2023 18:19 |
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M_Gargantua posted:Stupid question for the stupid question thread - or maybe for the chat thread since its not a real car question. A turbo-supercharged Allison V-1710? or maybe a Pratt and Whitney R-2800 if you have proper cooling.
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# ? Dec 14, 2023 19:26 |
DildenAnders posted:A turbo-supercharged Allison V-1710? or maybe a Pratt and Whitney R-2800 if you have proper cooling. That feels like a terrible idea though. While those motors were incredibly powerful in their era, they were designed with all the handicaps of an aircraft motor. Continuous stable RPM, continuous peak power, without a transmission, with awful cooling due to altitude, and while dealing with oiling and cooling during acrobatic manuevers, all while being robust enough for combat. They're closer to boat motors than automotive.
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# ? Dec 14, 2023 19:47 |
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Detroit diesel
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# ? Dec 14, 2023 19:48 |
Wrong thread.
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# ? Dec 14, 2023 21:10 |
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Why not something like a Caterpillar tugboat engine? Capable of bursts of immense power, and more than capable of putting out decent power for days at a time.
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# ? Dec 14, 2023 21:32 |
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M_Gargantua posted:Stupid question for the stupid question thread - or maybe for the chat thread since its not a real car question. Steve Morris billet SMX. Proven to hold 5,000hp it basically idles at 600hp as a NA. Otherwise a big rear end truck diesel? The really powerful Aussie road trains were/are running anywhere between 700-1000hp and I see they can at the very least least do over 8000hours so turn to boost up to have one go to 2000hp for minutes at a time is fesible Truck racing as far as I can find info on have 12 litre motors at "over" 1000hp and 6000NM and still are required to be fairly standard. Also Bandag Bullet is a twin motored truck that does over 3000hp for minutes while doing burnouts. Okay talked myself into 12+ litre truck motor for your hypothetical.
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# ? Dec 14, 2023 23:38 |
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DT466 and go. Or DT360/5.9 cummins. A DT466 can do 1200hp all day everyday with literally nothing but more turbo and some work to its P-pump. Twice that isn't really out of the question. It's been a while but over 100psi or boost or so will start to lift the head on those. Studding the engine, significant pump work, and compound turbos shoving 300psi makes it good for low-mid 4 figures worth of hp. If you want even more bore, drop the 530 sleeves/pistons in. They're a grand or two if you know where to look. They're a staple of most every class 4-6 box truck from the 70s into the early aughts. The DT360 is 5.9 sized but with wet sleeves making it personally more favorable than its Cummins counterpart.
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# ? Dec 15, 2023 02:02 |
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Detroit diesel This is my pick. 12v92T is probably my favorite engine of all time. This means: 2 stroke diesel 18 liters V12 92ci per cylinder Supercharger integral to the engine Also turbocharged 700 hp and 2100 ft lbs torque Will run on mud Dead reliable Mr. Wiggles fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Dec 15, 2023 |
# ? Dec 15, 2023 04:22 |
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M_Gargantua posted:That feels like a terrible idea though. While those motors were incredibly powerful in their era, they were designed with all the handicaps of an aircraft motor. Continuous stable RPM, continuous peak power, without a transmission, with awful cooling due to altitude, and while dealing with oiling and cooling during acrobatic manuevers, all while being robust enough for combat. They're closer to boat motors than automotive. You said "sustained for several minutes". Also, anything with a pressurized coolant system would be fine. Finding a transmission might be difficult, but you said engine. (Also it's a stupid answer to a stupid question, not sure what else you wanted.)
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# ? Dec 15, 2023 04:42 |
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You can definitely get a modern 13L diesel up there. If you got two of em you dont even need to turn up the boost that much.
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# ? Dec 15, 2023 12:43 |
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What's the proper way of beating yourself up when you finish an oil change and then realize you forgot to put the washer back on the drain plug? I think this is the second time I've done it, too.
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# ? Dec 16, 2023 18:58 |
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Switch to a Fumoto and never worry about washers again
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# ? Dec 16, 2023 19:28 |
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It's OK. I managed to incorrectly torque the drain plug bolt and had a nice large oil slick in the driveway. Got to panic a little as it takes super pooper fancy German oil which I didn't have much of so panic ordered extra and was able to verify that the vacuum cleaner in the fill tube trick works great to allow you to undo the drain and retighten to guttentight.
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# ? Dec 16, 2023 19:31 |
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Bought 2nd gen Prius a month ago with 205k miles on it. Two weeks ago, CEL came on for low catalytic converter efficiency. Cleared it and it came back a week or so and 160 miles later. Voltage on the O2 sensor appears nominal, but I could always check again. I saw from maintenance records they added some oil at a service last year, so I am guessing burning oil is fouling the cat. I hadn't really made much of the oil top up at the time of purchase because I've generally driven old beaters and adding a bit of oil every now and again was just a fact of life, but I guess the high efficiency cat on the Prius doesn't hold up well to the extra stuff in the exhaust? FWIW it passed emisisons no problem at the time of purchase. Guessing my next move is a couple oil changes 1k miles apart to see if that helps things. Not optimistic though. Assuming it doesn't, what's the go? I'm in an emissions area but my next inspection won't be for 2 years. Money is extremely tight, I have had rotten luck finding work since I got here midyear (and in general). Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Dec 17, 2023 |
# ? Dec 17, 2023 15:07 |
Those Prius cats usually last a long time because the engine isn't working half the time. If a fuel injector cleaning and oil changes don't help. I would look at an ebay or rockauto replacement catalytic converter, assuming those are sufficient for your state (CA/NY I think no)
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# ? Dec 17, 2023 18:19 |
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I need to get a fuse tap for 2014 Honda Civic so I can hard wire my A129 Duo Plus dashcam. Of these sizes, which ones are the ones I am looking for? If possible I just want to buy the right size fuse tap.
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# ? Dec 17, 2023 20:47 |
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Trickortreat posted:I need to get a fuse tap for 2014 Honda Civic so I can hard wire my A129 Duo Plus dashcam. Of these sizes, which ones are the ones I am looking for? If possible I just want to buy the right size fuse tap. I think you want the low profile mini fuses avoiding to what I'm seeing on RockAuto.
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# ? Dec 17, 2023 21:16 |
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Is Power Steering fluid (just a generic auto zone kind for Hondas) very toxic at all? I pumped out my reservoir to replace it with some newer fluid (and to check for a leak)... put aside the open lid container on a garage shelf and then promptly knocked it over pouring it all over everything and into the ground nearby. It was about 8-12 ounces at most (and some water I had used to flush the pump)
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# ? Dec 17, 2023 21:56 |
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BonoMan posted:Is Power Steering fluid (just a generic auto zone kind for Hondas) very toxic at all? I pumped out my reservoir to replace it with some newer fluid (and to check for a leak)... put aside the open lid container on a garage shelf and then promptly knocked it over pouring it all over everything and into the ground nearby. It was about 8-12 ounces at most (and some water I had used to flush the pump) It's surprisingly not terrible. https://www.conncoll.edu/media/website-media/offices/ehs/envhealthdocs/power_steering_fluid.pdf I would clean up any puddles, but if it seeped into the ground I wouldn't worry too much about it. Maybe don't make a habit of eating earthworms from right next to your garage.
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# ? Dec 17, 2023 22:39 |
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Safety Dance posted:Maybe don't make a habit of eating earthworms from right next to your garage. Communist! I'll do what I want.
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# ? Dec 17, 2023 22:57 |
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Bought 2nd gen Prius a month ago with 205k miles on it. Two weeks ago, CEL came on for low catalytic converter efficiency. Cleared it and it came back a week or so and 160 miles later. Voltage on the O2 sensor appears nominal, but I could always check again. Imo you're overthinking the oil thing, is it the original cat? Buying a hybrid with 205k miles on it is perhaps a masochistic choice when money is tight. Agree with the other poster that getting a universal cat welded in is maybe something to price out if it's the original currently. If the car is running well (how's the fuel economy) otherwise I wouldn't consider this something to prioritize if it's going to be very challenging to afford.
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# ? Dec 18, 2023 00:10 |
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Safety Dance posted:It's surprisingly not terrible. Good to know! I managed to put the worms back before I consumed any so I should be all good.
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# ? Dec 18, 2023 01:46 |
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VelociBacon posted:Imo you're overthinking the oil thing, is it the original cat? Buying a hybrid with 205k miles on it is perhaps a masochistic choice when money is tight. Agree with the other poster that getting a universal cat welded in is maybe something to price out if it's the original currently. If the car is running well (how's the fuel economy) otherwise I wouldn't consider this something to prioritize if it's going to be very challenging to afford. AFAIK it's the original cat, it's almost certainly OEM (the shop I bought it from doesn't really mess with any of the aftermarket stuff, they put a brand new Toyota hybrid battery in it last year). It's under a cat shield because Denver. The cheap aftermarket cats here don't pass emissions AFAIK. Re: masochism - there were no good choices in the current market. I had an absolutely awful time trying to buy something for weeks* and finally settled on the first non-basket case I found. It was the courtesy car for the local Toyota specialist, the price was within reason given the market and maintenance done on it, and I was aboslutely at the end of my rope (see below). The 2nd gen Prius was a good compromise between economy and reliability (although naturally as soon as I buy it gas comes down from ~$4/gal to ~$2.80). *Shady dealers pretending to be a private sale (cars also had big issues), private sellers who would lie about simple details like "do you have the emissions certificate/title" and think I'd not notice in person, private sellers who would tell me to come check out the car then sell it before I got there, etc. I got pepper sprayed on the bus going to look at one in Aurora, wasted a few afternoons biking 10+ miles to look at others. None of these were screaming deals either, you just get very little for your money these days. By contrast, I've watched the exact same beater Yaris with moon miles sell in an afternoon on Marketplace for double what mine lingered for back in Australia. Chunjee posted:Those Prius cats usually last a long time because the engine isn't working half the time. If a fuel injector cleaning and oil changes don't help. I would look at an ebay or rockauto replacement catalytic converter, assuming those are sufficient for your state (CA/NY I think no) I will try oil changes and seafoam and see how I go, as above I don't think an aftermarket cat is viable. Worst case, other than cooking the cat (and failing emissions in 2 years), what possible side effects would just clearing the code whenever it pops up be?
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# ? Dec 18, 2023 19:39 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 09:34 |
Ethics_Gradient posted:Worst case, other than cooking the cat (and failing emissions in 2 years), what possible side effects would just clearing the code whenever it pops up be? Probably very little if anything. In an extreme case the exhaust can clog but you would see misfire codes if that starts. In newer cars I think the computer will turn your A/C off to encourage you to fix. I don't think your year vehicle does that
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# ? Dec 18, 2023 22:51 |