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vikingstrike posted:Yep and tubulars aren’t very common these days except in things like CX racing. This surprises me, I thought tubulars were particularly vulnerable to punctures and would've been supplanted by tubeless for things like that
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Dec 1, 2023 18:17
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Slavvy posted:This surprises me, I thought tubulars were particularly vulnerable to punctures and would've been supplanted by tubeless for things like that Sewups are better for off-camber because they can't burp like a tubeless tire. You can also run sealant in them for the same puncture resistance. I will say, in the US I think even for CX it's a dwindling number of folks running on sewups - it's either folks who have been doing it for long enough that they've already got wheels for it so why replace em, or folks who have a mechanic taking care of that for them. bicievino fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Dec 2, 2023 |
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Dec 1, 2023 23:57
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On the tire hole question you can "boot" a big hole as a field repair with a dollar bill. The fibers are strong enough to prevent the tube pushing through. The other benefit to tubulars is that you can ride on them even when they're flat, hence the use in racing when the team car/pit is far away.
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Dec 2, 2023 03:31
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Ok, so how dumb of an idea would it be to get cheap tubular wheels for my early 90's project bike and fill them with sealer? They look like a nightmare to fit right on the first try
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Dec 2, 2023 07:53
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Slavvy posted:Ok, so how dumb of an idea would it be to get cheap tubular wheels for my early 90's project bike and fill them with sealer? They look like a nightmare to fit right on the first try Insanely. Gluing up a tub correctly takes skill, it’s messy, smelly, and when you inevitably mess up your first attempt and take it to a shop to fix it’ll cost way more. That’s assuming the shop even wants to deal with tubs. I don’t know what you use this specific bike for but if it’s anything beyond a closed course (cross) or where you have a support vehicle, something you can easily repair roadside is way more important.
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Dec 2, 2023 10:24
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Righto, definitely not worth it then
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Dec 2, 2023 10:32
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Insanely. Gluing up a tub correctly takes skill, it’s messy, smelly, and when you inevitably mess up your first attempt and take it to a shop to fix it’ll cost way more. That’s assuming the shop even wants to deal with tubs. I didn't have too hard a time learning to glue them up and getting them on nice and straight. The whole process is stupid and sucks a ton though
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Dec 2, 2023 12:25
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Using sewups for anything besides racing has been stupid for as long as I've been riding, which is a long time. It's not actually that hard to glue them on at home when you've got plenty of time, but doing it on the side of the road in the pissin rain because you got a puncture too big to seal sucks. Not being able to do it and having to call a cab to get home because you didn't carry an entire spare tire with you is even worse.
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Dec 2, 2023 16:16
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I put new pads in the front caliper of my gravel bike (it has Rival AXS) and it seems like there's just not enough clearance. There's a lot of rubbing even after pushing the pistons in as far as they'll go and almost no travel at the lever. The SRAM road bleed block does just about fit in between the pistons too, so I would think that means there should be enough right? Maybe I just have quite thick pads or something. I guess I'll just have to work a bit harder and it'll wear off after a ride?
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Dec 3, 2023 20:05
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Heliosicle posted:I put new pads in the front caliper of my gravel bike (it has Rival AXS) and it seems like there's just not enough clearance. There's a lot of rubbing even after pushing the pistons in as far as they'll go and almost no travel at the lever. Are you able to adjust them off a bit at the lever? I'm not familiar with those brakes but sometimes there is the ability to adjust pad contact offset at the lever.
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Dec 4, 2023 01:04
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VelociBacon posted:Are you able to adjust them off a bit at the lever? I'm not familiar with those brakes but sometimes there is the ability to adjust pad contact offset at the lever. These only have reach adjustment unfortunately, not contact point. Will try pushing the pistons in a bit more which might gain me half a mm
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Dec 4, 2023 18:34
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Heliosicle posted:I put new pads in the front caliper of my gravel bike (it has Rival AXS) and it seems like there's just not enough clearance. There's a lot of rubbing even after pushing the pistons in as far as they'll go and almost no travel at the lever. Whoever bled your brakes probably did so with worn pads+wheels in or pads+spacer in instead of using a bleed block. For me the only way to correct an overfilled bleed was to connect a syringe / bleed cup to the lever and push the pistons back out. You could technically open the caliper end instead, but it’s a little more likely to introduce air bubbles unless you have a way to hold the syringe right side up (extra hands, a strap/clip, etc.) TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Dec 4, 2023 |
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Dec 4, 2023 22:00
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And sometimes sram pistons just don't like to reset even if they have been bled with a bleed block. every time i change my mtb pads with guide rscs the pistons don't want to retract and i have to crack open the bleed screw on the lever and hook up a syringe. Although maybe last time i figured out that if i dialed the contact adjust all the way out it helped? One of my winter projects for that bike is going to be a full brake overhaul- lever rebuilds, caliper rebuilds, new pads, new rotors.
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Dec 5, 2023 00:16
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jamal posted:And sometimes sram pistons just don't like to reset even if they have been bled with a bleed block. every time i change my mtb pads with guide rscs the pistons don't want to retract and i have to crack open the bleed screw on the lever and hook up a syringe. Although maybe last time i figured out that if i dialed the contact adjust all the way out it helped? One of my winter projects for that bike is going to be a full brake overhaul- lever rebuilds, caliper rebuilds, new pads, new rotors. Better than Shimano calipers with ceramic pistons that love to shatter if you push them back in unevenly and they don't sell replacements of...
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Dec 5, 2023 08:09
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I was re-seating a tyre with a dynaplug already in it this morning and I was too slow shutting the air off after the last ping from the tyre bead. Heard a sound like a gun shot and was afraid that I'd blown out the rim or something, but it was the plug shooting across the room. No idea where it is now. Not something I'd considered happening before, but definitely going to be more careful in future lol, rip your eye if that hit you
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Dec 9, 2023 09:13
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Possibly dumb question: is there anything I should do to pedals if I’m taking them off and storing them for a bit (say until spring)? I cleaned and degreased them before storing them away but then realized maybe I should put on a thin layer of grease on the threads or something similar? They are shimano SPD pedals if that matters. But I guess same question for flats when I store them as well?
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Dec 11, 2023 05:40
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Voodoofly posted:Possibly dumb question: is there anything I should do to pedals if I’m taking them off and storing them for a bit (say until spring)? I cleaned and degreased them before storing them away but then realized maybe I should put on a thin layer of grease on the threads or something similar? Don't worry about it, a wipedown is fine and they don't need protecting unless you're burying them in a bog to keep them safe from rampaging hordes
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Dec 11, 2023 05:55
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Don’t store them in like your oxidizer cabinet or pool shed. Other than that they’ll be fine.
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Dec 11, 2023 05:58
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Cool thanks. Always down for less work.
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Dec 11, 2023 06:22
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Hey yall, wanted a quick sanity check on something. I've been idly thinking of converting my flat bar bike to drops. I think in this case it should be reasonably straightforward? I have this Brodie Circuit which is the flat bar version of this touring bike from them (same frame/fork/stem). Based I what I've read I should be able to use these Microshift R8 3x8 brifters with this group set just fine? Which would mean that basically all I'm looking at is the handle bar itself + the brifters, does this sound right? Anything I'm missing there?
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Dec 16, 2023 07:50
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The neverending nightmare of bar tape
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Dec 16, 2023 08:06
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leftist heap posted:Hey yall, wanted a quick sanity check on something. I've been idly thinking of converting my flat bar bike to drops. I think in this case it should be reasonably straightforward? I have this Brodie Circuit which is the flat bar version of this touring bike from them (same frame/fork/stem). Based I what I've read I should be able to use these Microshift R8 3x8 brifters with this group set just fine? Which would mean that basically all I'm looking at is the handle bar itself + the brifters, does this sound right? Anything I'm missing there? The brifters have a wrong cable pull for the brakes of your bike and won't work with them. It has Hayes MX-5s which need a V-brake lever and V-brake brifters don't really exist (except Gevenalles but I think they're silly). If you want to put brifters on that bike the easiest solution would be to also replace the brakes with something that uses a road pull. There's some mechanical Shimano ones at least that are okay and pretty cheap. Otherwise they should work though the front derailler on that bike is nominally an MTB one and the brifters might need a road one but this is really hard to say before hand.
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Dec 16, 2023 13:14
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Havana Affair posted:The brifters have a wrong cable pull for the brakes of your bike and won't work with them. It has Hayes MX-5s which need a V-brake lever and V-brake brifters don't really exist (except Gevenalles but I think they're silly). If you want to put brifters on that bike the easiest solution would be to also replace the brakes with something that uses a road pull. There's some mechanical Shimano ones at least that are okay and pretty cheap. Otherwise they should work though the front derailler on that bike is nominally an MTB one and the brifters might need a road one but this is really hard to say before hand. Cool, thank you. Did not realize the brake pull part. Not totally sure I wanna go down that road, but we'll see.
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Dec 16, 2023 16:43
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V-brake road levers do exist, and with bar-end shifters it's a simpler swap. Switching handlebar types isn't usually simple though, and the reach will be longer with road bars which you may or may not like.
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Dec 16, 2023 18:10
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Slavvy posted:The neverending nightmare of bar tape
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Dec 16, 2023 20:36
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SimonSays posted:V-brake road levers do exist, and with bar-end shifters it's a simpler swap. Switching handlebar types isn't usually simple though, and the reach will be longer with road bars which you may or may not like. I've recently done exactly this. I used Tektro 520 brake levers, Ritchey Venturemax flared handlebars and Diacompe ENE bar-end shifters. I specifically chose a smaller frame size for the used hybrid bike (Giant Escape) that I bought, to make sure that the reach wouldn't be too long. It works perfectly fine, and I'm actually really enjoying how the bar-end shifters work.
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Dec 16, 2023 21:23
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Bar end shifters could work but TBH I've never really used them before
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Dec 16, 2023 21:54
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leftist heap posted:Bar end shifters could work but TBH I've never really used them before They shift. If you like indexed get Microshift, everything else is their factory seconds. If you like friction get Dia-Compe. You can maybe find some indexed Dura-Aces somewhere too. Tektro and Dia-Compe make v-brake drop-bar brake levers. Otherwise get a pair of brifters and replace the V-brakes with low-profile cantilevers but you might need extra cable stops for those someplace on the bike.
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Dec 16, 2023 22:56
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SimonSays posted:They shift. If you like indexed get Microshift, everything else is their factory seconds. Which brands?
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Dec 17, 2023 01:24
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kimbo305 posted:Which brands? Sunrace is the one I had in mind, same build but much sloppier tolerances and function. Microshift does good QC before their name goes on something.
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Dec 17, 2023 03:02
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evil_bunnY posted:I got some thick rear end Pro (the shimano brand) tape with silicone backer instead of adhesive and I just don't understand why anyone uses adhesive tape. I've cleaned and re-wrapped this tape like 4 times, my kids grab onto them with their dirty hands/gloves, and it's held up perfectly. The 2,5mm pro with a faux leather texture is my absolute favorite bar tape. Stretchy so it's easy to install, the silicone is great, thickness just right for me and seems to last a while.
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Dec 17, 2023 07:44
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Going through an extremely messy break-up, luckily my therapy is portable Balancing my toolbox on the bars prevented it from flipping backwards It was only a kilometre and I had fifteen minutes, don't @ me about how I secured it all
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Dec 25, 2023 23:37
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Slavvy posted:Going through an extremely messy break-up, luckily my therapy is portable I've seen worse. And hopefully your break-up won't be that messy. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you.
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Dec 28, 2023 10:56
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So I have this old cargo bike where the front wheel is flung way out in front of the box. I retrofitted it with hydraulic discs years ago, but I've never been happy with the feel of the front brake, I simply can't get it to feel firm. I'm thinking this might be because of the really long brake hose flexing, so I want to try to replace a bunch of hose with hard brakeline. I can borrow a tool for flaring automotive brake line, but I assume without having verified that car stuff and bike stuff use different hydraulic fittings. Does anyone know if I'm wrong, or know of or can think of a good way to mate bike brake hose with hard brakelines?
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Jan 10, 2024 19:03
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I just put a hydraulic brake on the rear of a tandem, I don't think the length of hose is your problem, more likely it's difficult bleeding all the air out of the system because of the roeuting and length of the hose.
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Jan 10, 2024 20:06
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It's not impossible there's air left in there I guess, but it's unlikely. I've chased bubbles in all the ways I could think of, including removing hose and caliper from the bike and orienting it in a way that would allow bubbles to float upward to the caliper, flushing copious amounts of oil through it, way past the point I would be satisfied there's nothing left to bleed on any other brake I've successfully bled. Maybe it's just lovely hose. The only hose long enough I could find at the time was from Jagwire (which I think is a Brand) but it should be possible to just go to the LBS and ask them for what I need from their big 50 meter reel.
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Jan 10, 2024 20:17
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Invalido posted:It's not impossible there's air left in there I guess, but it's unlikely. I've chased bubbles in all the ways I could think of, including removing hose and caliper from the bike and orienting it in a way that would allow bubbles to float upward to the caliper, flushing copious amounts of oil through it, way past the point I would be satisfied there's nothing left to bleed on any other brake I've successfully bled. Maybe it's just lovely hose. The only hose long enough I could find at the time was from Jagwire (which I think is a Brand) but it should be possible to just go to the LBS and ask them for what I need from their big 50 meter reel. It's not your hose. It's not bled properly. Jagwire is totally fine. It's possible your lever is damaged or something but it's 99% more likely not bled correctly. Sorry! What's the model of brake? Some are just trash even after being bled.
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Jan 10, 2024 20:19
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It's some deore XT model or other both caliper and lever. The caliper has started leaking and needs replacing so I thought this was a good time to fix whatever needs fixing to get this to work right finally. I guess I'll give the long hose another shot and do a very thorough bleeding procedure. Again.
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Jan 10, 2024 20:30
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If liquid is coming out air is going in, so that leaky caliper is probably related. You just replaced it before the last bleed?
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Jan 10, 2024 21:25
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nah, the leak is a recent development (front brake has been suboptimal since I installed it, but way better that what was before the mod which was no front brake at all), and it's still a very small leak. Doesn't take much to lubricate a set of pads enough to make them not work right though and it's only gonna get worse. There's copious amounts of road salt here in the winter and it's not kind to hydraulic calipers, among many, many other things. I replaced both calipers on my main commuter last year and I guess it's time for the box bike too.
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Jan 10, 2024 21:41
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