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Yeah don't use Tamyia thinner with other brands of paints, the results will be unpredictable and likely unwanted. Pure/filtered/distilled water is perfectly good for thinning regular hobby paints, especially Citadel paints. If you want to take it up a notch then use a mix of equal parts water and acrylic medium (any art supply shop will have it) with just a touch (less than 10%) of flow improver. I make it in batches and keep it in dropper bottles with my paints.
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Dec 16, 2023 08:46
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Regular-assed tap water is fine for thinning regular-assed hobby acrylics. If the water is going to be sitting for a while (eg in a wet palette) then there is an arguement for using distilled/deionised (to try and prevent mould on the sponge), but if you are just thinning down paint on a hard palette regular water is entirely fine, unless its coming out the tap a funny colour (in which case I feel thinning paints is the least of your problems). Obviously thin speed paints/contrast paints with their relevant medium. Once you get a grip on thinning paints with water to a consistency you like by eye/feel you can start loving with acrylic mediums/flow improvers. I've personally got a dropper of dilute acrylic matte medium and another of flow improver sitting on my paint desk, but in all honesty water still does 99% of my thinning unless I'm aiming for a wash or glaze.
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Dec 16, 2023 11:54
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I've been thinking about using seltzer water for the thrill of it.
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Dec 16, 2023 12:30
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I think that'd mainly just make the paint angry.
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Dec 16, 2023 12:36
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I'm looking for models of deranged-looking fantasy townsfolk. Preferably ones that look a bit aristocratic or like they're at a masquerade, but I'm not exactly that picky. STLs or physical models, either way. I'm doing a Flesh-Eater Courts army for Age of Sigmar - They're ghouls and vampires who are afflicted by a delusion that they're fancy aristocrats and their serfs, and I want my ghouls to be newly afflicted, and not entirely transformed into full nasty little Gollum looking guys. Just a bunch of folks dressed in their finest going around eating people.
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Dec 16, 2023 13:42
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Geisladisk posted:I'm looking for models of deranged-looking fantasy townsfolk. Preferably ones that look a bit aristocratic or like they're at a masquerade, but I'm not exactly that picky. STLs or physical models, either way. TT combat has a game called Carnevale that looks like what you're after: https://www.nobleknight.com/P/21477...twaAsxJEALw_wcB It also has terrain that's pretty neat: https://ttcombat.com/collections/streets-of-venice
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Dec 16, 2023 14:45
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10mm battle pilgrims finished   close ups       now i finally have a proper peasant horde 
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Dec 16, 2023 20:24
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Your peasants are revolting.
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Dec 16, 2023 20:30
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 Some Sea Fox reinforcements arrived.
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Dec 16, 2023 21:40
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Nebalebadingdong posted:10mm battle pilgrims finished goddamn. wonderful
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Dec 16, 2023 22:13
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Nebalebadingdong posted:10mm battle pilgrims finished Do you do metallic paint or is that all nmm?
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Dec 17, 2023 00:19
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they make metallic paint!? (it's all nmm)
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Dec 17, 2023 00:30
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Geisladisk posted:I'm looking for models of deranged-looking fantasy townsfolk. Preferably ones that look a bit aristocratic or like they're at a masquerade, but I'm not exactly that picky. STLs or physical models, either way. Anvil just started doing Aristocratic civilians https://anvilindustry.co.uk/3d-printed-gothic-civilians-male-6-miniatures https://anvilindustry.co.uk/3d-printed-female-gothic-civilians
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Dec 17, 2023 00:56
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Nebalebadingdong posted:10mm battle pilgrims finished Awesome as usual, you bastard
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Dec 17, 2023 01:02
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Nebalebadingdong posted:10mm battle pilgrims finished Amazing, I will never paint with anything like that level of skill. But I have painted something I think is tabletop-adequate, with much appreciation to the tips from this thread:   Edit: Also I think my issues with contrast paints were indeed likely due to me loving up the priming, as several of you said.  On the left is a newly-primed turret done in the way this thread recommended with Wraithbone spray, in the middle is brush-primed with Vallejo Grey, and the right is brush-primed with Army Painter brush primer, which is a very deep muddy grey. Imperial Fist yellow contrast paint was applied the same way to each. It turned out very even and bright over the Wraithbone spray, bright but slightly uneven over the Vallejo (which I noticed was kind of uneven after brushing it on), and even but dull-colored over the much darker Army Painter primer. Kylaer fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Dec 17, 2023 |
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Dec 17, 2023 02:07
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Saint Celestine posted:
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Dec 17, 2023 05:48
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 Had some painter's block for the past few weeks but was able to sit down and knock out the front Warp Talon here, happy with how these are coming out for how long I'm spending on each
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Dec 17, 2023 06:26
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Kylaer posted:I've been thinning with Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinner, is that the right product to be using? I would not use X-20A to thin. It's basically 66% Isopropyl Alcohol. Fine for airbrushing and works very well with Tamiya paints, but it can mess around with the acrylic binder in other paints (notably Vallejo) which will make them go gloopy rather than thinning properly. As a side note Tamiya paints are designed for airbrushing (and they are very good for that). Trying to hand paint with them is going to be a misery. They do not cover properly and don't dilute correctly with water despite them being acrylic like GW. Water is fine for most thinning. If you want to be fancy there's acrylic flow improver (buy from an art shop) and mix in with your water to break surface tension. If you want to thin heavily to make glazes or washes some acrylic medium (glaze, retarder, matte, gloss) will stop the paint from splitting. The ultimate thinning medium I've found is Lahmian Medium. It's spectacularly expensive but there's nothing else like it. It just works. I use it for sparingly for special models or if some paint is misbehaving particularly badly. I have a concoction of flow improver, water, matte medium and a touch of IPA but it's nowhere near as good. Efb but Kylaer posted:Amazing, I will never paint with anything like that level of skill. Looks great, just hit it with a sepia wash of your choice (Seraphim Sepia, AP Light Tone, Chestnut Wash etc) and it'll be 
Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Dec 17, 2023 |
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Dec 17, 2023 20:40
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I have failed. I painted something too large to put a penny next to =( 
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Dec 17, 2023 21:57
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These are still in my first 12 models ever painted but its going ok for me. Going to hit them with a wash later. Also make sure to paint the base while still on the sprue.
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Dec 17, 2023 22:43
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Hey folks. Anyone with experience when it comes to brush-painting Vallejo acryilic matt varnish? I do have a recurring issue with it that I'm trying to figure out. Pretty much everytime when I'm done with a batch of painted things and brush a layer of matte varnish on them, I find a few small white specks on a couple of my pieces after I left them to dry overnight. It's really just a tiny white dot or two, where no white paint has ever been involved. At first I thought it might be some dust particles that get swirled around while I move about in my flat. So I placed a batch of drying pieces in another room than usually and shut the door until the next day. Still had the same issue. Now after thinking about this for a while I might have come to the reason but It's just a theory of mine that I would like to run by folks who have knowledge. I assume it could be because I'm brushing the varnish too thin and there isn't enough moisture around to fully dissolve the matt pigments. Is that a thing or am I crazy? Like when the varnish dries and the matt pigments can't dissolve fully then it would make sense to me that leftover pigment would dry as a small white speck. If anyone knows about this specific issue then I'd be very happy to hear about it!
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Dec 17, 2023 22:48
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Z the IVth posted:Looks great, just hit it with a sepia wash of your choice (Seraphim Sepia, AP Light Tone, Chestnut Wash etc) and it'll be Thank you! I will get a sepia wash, I bought some Nuln Oil but haven't used it yet. You apply the washes evenly, right, you don't dab them in specific areas? They also make rust effect paints, I believe, and I was thinking about dotting it with some of that.
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Dec 17, 2023 23:41
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Tin Tim posted:Hey folks. Anyone with experience when it comes to brush-painting Vallejo acryilic matt varnish? I do have a recurring issue with it that I'm trying to figure out. I use that exact varnish and brush it on very thin. I've never experienced that problem. Maybe get a picture or two? Are the white dots raised?
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Dec 17, 2023 23:58
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Virtual Russian posted:I use that exact varnish and brush it on very thin. I've never experienced that problem. Maybe get a picture or two? Are the white dots raised?
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Dec 18, 2023 00:10
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Kylaer posted:Thank you! I will get a sepia wash, I bought some Nuln Oil but haven't used it yet. You apply the washes evenly, right, you don't dab them in specific areas? You can also use washes to recess shade (often called a pin wash) where you're much more selective about where you put the wash itself, ideally directly into the recesses using capillary action. Getting the wash to easily apply through capillary action will depend heavily on the finish of the surface under the wash and applying either paints or varnish with a satin or gloss finish will make the wash move much easier.
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Dec 18, 2023 00:18
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Virtual Russian posted:I use that exact varnish and brush it on very thin. I've never experienced that problem. Maybe get a picture or two? Are the white dots raised? hoiyes posted:Yeah, I went through two bottles off Vallejo Matt before I started using testors spray and never noticed that. I wasnt thinning much either, just loading the brush with water first.
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Dec 18, 2023 00:23
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Byron always goings into detail about how he does washes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXkiCJ_xfus&t=215s There's some brush techniques that you can use besides simply slopping it on.
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Dec 18, 2023 00:27
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Kylaer posted:Also I think my issues with contrast paints were indeed likely due to me loving up the priming, as several of you said. Yeah, brush primer isn't really meant to have even coverage; if you plan to brush prime again it's best to put on a basecoat of something first, then contrast it.
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Dec 18, 2023 01:27
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Tin Tim posted:Thanks for chiming in! I touched up some varnished pieces today so I'll coat them again tomorrow evening and then try to get a good pic if it happens. I suspect your bottle has gone bad and partly cured inside. Vallejo paint does have a habit of doing that and landing you with paint that has particles of half cured goop floating in it. Quite a lot of my Vallejo bottles have issues with this. Kylaer posted:Thank you! I will get a sepia wash, I bought some Nuln Oil but haven't used it yet. You apply the washes evenly, right, you don't dab them in specific areas? With washes the basic method is just to slop it on everywhere and let it run into the recesses while tinting the surfaces slightly. GW have changed their formulation recently so their new washes tint less. This will give you a more grungy look. If you want to keep the surfaces bright and clean then you can do a pin wash where you apply the wash directly to the crevices - it's like drawing lines all over. Sometimes the crevice is just right and you can get the wash to capillary action through it to save you the hassle. I wouldn't worry about rust effects at this scale, especially not with a yellow model. If you have a model that's majority metal like a titan then you can consider it. There's a chance it will look off scale since any rust on a non-ork military vehicle should be minimal* If you want to try some advanced techniques for these yellow models specifically I would recommend you to try some paint chipping or applying some weathering pigments. Paint chipping would be taking some sponge, ripping a bit away and using that to dab irregular chips onto parts of the model. Works really well with a dark brown-black against yellow. The other trick is to get some weathering pigments and apply them across the bottom of the mini to give you some shade across it so it doesn't look completely banana yellow.   I've done both on my land raiders though the pigment effect is fairly restrained. The Storm Eagle has some chipping and streaking on the wings which were done with enamels.
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Dec 18, 2023 01:35
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I do want to make them look less clean, so sloshing it on sounds like the trick, thank you. And weathering effects, that's the term I was looking for, I'll see if I can find some of that at the local nerd store.
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Dec 18, 2023 02:03
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Kylaer posted:I do want to make them look less clean, so sloshing it on sounds like the trick, thank you. And weathering effects, that's the term I was looking for, I'll see if I can find some of that at the local nerd store. btw if the people who run it know their stuff, feel free to ask, because "weathering" includes a staggering variety of stuff. however, almost all of it is applicable to warhammer one way or another key terms that cross hobbies: epic scale is 5mm/6mm, ZZ scale, or micro armor regular warhams is 25mm/28mm scale, 1:60 scale, or S scale Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Dec 18, 2023 |
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Dec 18, 2023 02:08
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Kylaer posted:I do want to make them look less clean, so sloshing it on sounds like the trick, thank you. And weathering effects, that's the term I was looking for, I'll see if I can find some of that at the local nerd store. Get some pigment powder and go ham. If you can't get modelling pigment art pastels or makeup powder could probably work.
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Dec 18, 2023 02:40
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Keep in mind you have to be particular when choosing pigment powders, many of them have special handling considerations such as needing very good ventilation or a respirator of some kind, possible heavy metals, and other issues like this. They have some really cool uses but like many oil paints or stuff like enamels , there are some health and safety factors to weigh first.
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Dec 18, 2023 04:05
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Mederlock posted:Keep in mind you have to be particular when choosing pigment powders, many of them have special handling considerations such as needing very good ventilation or a respirator of some kind, possible heavy metals, and other issues like this. They have some really cool uses but like many oil paints or stuff like enamels , there are some health and safety factors to weigh first. I wish specific health risks and handling requirements were required to be more forward on packaging. I have some super toxic oil paint, major respiratory risk enamels and pigments and you'd never know if you were some kid picking stuff up for the first time without being told. I just checked and the enamels are the only one with a warning and it's just a combustion indication.
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Dec 18, 2023 04:19
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Harvey Mantaco posted:I wish specific health risks and handling requirements were required to be more forward on packaging. I have some super toxic oil paint, major respiratory risk enamels and pigments and you'd never know if you were some kid picking stuff up for the first time without being told. I just checked and the enamels are the only one with a warning and it's just a combustion indication. Yeah it's kind of sickening to me that in workplace health and safety it's an ironclad requirement for manufacturers and distributors to label their products with all the potential hazards, the employer has a duty to inform and train and provide appropriate PPE/mitigations, etc., and yet in the consumer products world there is next to 0 indications whatsoever of the stuff they put in products. Probably was deemed " harmful to business interests and sales" to be forthright about the health risks and appropriate safety precautions on consumer goods and so they lobbied the governments to not have the same strict requirements to label as they would for a commercial customer.
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Dec 18, 2023 04:31
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Mederlock posted:Yeah it's kind of sickening to me that in workplace health and safety it's an ironclad requirement for manufacturers and distributors to label their products with all the potential hazards, the employer has a duty to inform and train and provide appropriate PPE/mitigations, etc., and yet in the consumer products world there is next to 0 indications whatsoever of the stuff they put in products. You can't sell a scalpel to kids but cadmium red paint? Go ahead. It's really tasty! I suspect the risk in a hobby context is somewhat overblown, particularly with occasional products like pigments. For paints you'll probably use them often enough that it becomes a factor (particularly if you like brush licking) but unless you mix your weathering powder and Colombian weathering powder up you aren't going to get enough into you using it on and off to make a significant difference. Ofc if you're a professional artist and not just a dabbler hobbying 3 hours a week it is a different issue. Much like how soap is fine for the public but it becomes utterly hazardous to healthcare professionals due to overuse.
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Dec 18, 2023 11:21
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Lumpy posted:I have failed. I painted something too large to put a penny next to =( I want you to know that this is a fantastic idea and excellent execution.
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Dec 18, 2023 12:13
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Can we talk a little bit about posture and table/chair setup for mini painting? I'm starting to think the cheap table I bought is not doing my neck any favors and I should have gone with a standup desk. Do you sit or stand while painting? Are you leaned in heavily or are you able to keep a straight posture throughout the whole process?
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Dec 18, 2023 16:15
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Z the IVth posted:You can't sell a scalpel to kids but cadmium red paint? Go ahead. It's really tasty! It always matters. We don't know what someone does with the rest of their time, so it is best not to assume. I work in ceramics, so I get very touchy about this stuff, I know way too many people that got seriously hurt while saying "it's just a little bit, no worries" to themselves for a decade or more. Especially because those same people often pass their relaxed attitude onto others, who then think it is normal. It is especially an issue when someone who learned a relaxed safety attitude in their hobby decides to go full time. I recently ran into a guy who did just that, and was spraying and handling soluble cobalt without any PPE at all. I can't even imagine how hosed he is. A good friend had to take time off work because she was poisoned by cheap cosmetics she was buying. She couldn't work because she could be exposed to the same elements at work. Eva Hesse, an artist, died of a massive brain tumor in her 30s because she was working with resin in her home, it took less than 10 years to go from healthy to dead. Her work was continuously off-gassing fumes into her home, which she would have breathed every single day. The biggest problem with slow exposures is that by the time you notice symptoms it is too late. How many people have 3-D printers at home right now? These materials will hurt you if you let them. Heavy metals are very difficult to get out of your body, so even a tiny exposure adds up over the years. You can develop horrible sensitivities to solvents and other materials if you get exposed to small amounts regularly. All that said, protecting yourself is usually very easy, but you have to be aware of the risks and research everything. We all owe it to ourselves to know what we are bringing into our homes. Most hobby paints are totally safe, but as you move into more traditional art supplies you've got to be cautious.
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Dec 18, 2023 16:43
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Cardboard Fox posted:Can we talk a little bit about posture and table/chair setup for mini painting? I'm starting to think the cheap table I bought is not doing my neck any favors and I should have gone with a standup desk. Do you sit or stand while painting? Are you leaned in heavily or are you able to keep a straight posture throughout the whole process? I recently tweaked my back and had a hell of a time painting as I was hunched over constantly. I realised that the problem was the chair was too high (I was using a dining chair) I swapped it for a adjustable office chair and set it all the way down and my back is thanking me for it. I rest my elbows on the table to paint and i adjusted to keep my eyes are level with my hands while still sat upright. It's a little lower than comfortable for eating/writing/typing as the table should be at/slightly below the level of the elbows and my best painting height has my elbows below the level of the table. Virtual Russian posted:It always matters. We don't know what someone does with the rest of their time, so it is best not to assume. I work in ceramics, so I get very touchy about this stuff, I know way too many people that got seriously hurt while saying "it's just a little bit, no worries" to themselves for a decade or more. Especially because those same people often pass their relaxed attitude onto others, who then think it is normal. It is especially an issue when someone who learned a relaxed safety attitude in their hobby decides to go full time. I recently ran into a guy who did just that, and was spraying and handling soluble cobalt without any PPE at all. I can't even imagine how hosed he is. I don't disagree at all with what you've said but my point is there are levels of risk. The biggest risk I see hobby wise is 3D printers proliferating everywhere with all sorts of weird and wonderful resins and filaments outgassing all day long. The risks from that are significant as the exposure is constant and unavoidable and would mimic occupational levels of exposure. For the average hobbyist dabbling with oils - even if they licked their cadmium coated brush once a month it'd still take a while to build up to toxic levels and there's every chance they'd get bored long before that happened. Ultimately with some of these reactions it can really be a crapshoot and the best you can do is to try and avoid exposure. You could handle paint all day long and not have a problem through your working life or you could start painting and pack it up a few months later after you become sensitive to the same paint. Allergy is by definition an abnormal reaction to a substance at otherwise harmless levels of exposure. Heavy metals is a different story as they're dose dependent and will definitely affect you but allergic reactions are more difficult to predict. Suspect your friend with the cheap cosmetics was unlucky unless she literally went for the arsenic and mercury laced stuff. Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Dec 18, 2023 |
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Dec 18, 2023 16:49
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