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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Do you necessarily have to fix this? If it's a rare enough issue, I'd be considering whether I can fob it off on the next owner. Like, this isn't a structural defect, right? The water should go away once the rest of the neighborhood has a chance to dry out a bit. Obviously it's the correct thing to do, long-term, but my understanding was that basements flooding is a semi-common event in many parts of the world, and only really needs to be fixed if it's causing structural or mold issues, or if there's stuff in the basement that you don't want getting wet.
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Dec 14, 2023 03:12
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The shop vac might be a temporary solution. I dunno how much wear and tear you put on one by using it to move water around, but it's probably a lot. As someone who once had to use shop vacs to clean the clogged drain of a theater concession stand (the smell), they don't like that for long. Also, they're loud as hell. I would strongly recommend at the very least switching to a pump designed to move water - something like a Wayne Water Bug will plug in, hook up to a garden hose, and will move a surprising amount of water quickly without making a racket.
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Dec 14, 2023 03:25
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Inzombiac posted:Not sure what downstream means in this context.
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Dec 14, 2023 06:21
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Slugworth posted:Downstream would mean being fed power from a GFCI outlet, which may have tripped, but if this outlet is feet from the panel, then that's not likely your issue. Was hoping I'd have an easy fix for you. Oh, like one outlet whose powerline is chained to another? No, it stands alone. The two contractors are hashing out who is responsible and I should hear something soon. One was using a generator and the other tripped the breaker a dozen times using a cement saw, so it's pretty easy to guess is at fault.
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Dec 14, 2023 21:57
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I found a dead rat in my basement after the telltale smell. he wasn't very large, and we get occasional mice that the cats either kill or chase away, which is fine considering we live in a very small rural town. Rat seems to be an escalation though, and I know that where there is one there are usually more. My basement is unfinished and the house is about 120 years old. It's got the original ancient cement floor, but the walls below ground have since been just spray-foamed in along with the rest of the house when the renovation was completed a few years ago. The spray foam stops shy of the floor by a few inches in a couple of the corners, and those corners are where I can follow a small trail of rat droppings back to. Will it be worthwhile to go ham with a can of consumer spray foam and seal up those gaps? There's nothing to eat down there which is why that dumb rear end in a top hat died. I understand that all rodents will gnaw through stuff to get to food and that with winter coming, the warmth is also attractive.
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Dec 14, 2023 23:22
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Things coming along well! https://x.com/formerlyfiz/status/1735427173555552712?s=46&t=JBd6ZXmGQ3LmWL-ineTnAA
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Dec 14, 2023 23:52
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Flipperwaldt posted:Oh, all that is being considered, I'm sure. Heavy structural damage seems unlikely in the short term. But it's also a pain to be forced in some sort of time table wrt selling that depends on the weather. It could rain like this for the next two years, who knows anymore. Just the goddamn helplessness of having water come in your house is awful. It doesn't belong. Maybe with some quotes in hand, it will feel more like there are options beyond despair. This stuff is all pretty normal "so you built part of a house where the earth should be" stuff, and if it's just concrete block basement without stuff to get damaged then it's not a "fix this yesterday" probablem. Do get setup with a little transfer pump and some hose to get it as far away from the house as feasible in the next week or so. Don't rush to take the first bid or even the most expensive bid. You want the one that the person talks about how your specific house sits in the geography and why the water should go where it's going etc. And if it's never going to stop raining (global warming!) this will solve it for a good long time. Since you live in dutchland - how far from major bodies of water are you? Canals and such. If you are close then this could indicate other issues if those are supposed to be keeping the water in the canal and otherwise haven't had their water rise. But ground water rising is a thing. Recently some town east of me up in the mountains had water percolating out of the ground across a whole block due to the extreme rainfall and snowpack. It was nuts.
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Dec 15, 2023 03:32
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Problem: 21 year old Liftmaster 1200 Professional 1/3 HP garage door opener, after a long life, is acting flaky. It works perfectly from the wall switch, but it seems to have lost the ability to maintain a connection to the remotes. (I have two remotes, both with fresh batteries.) The opener stops responding to the remotes. If I do a "relearn" for the remotes, they immediately work again--for 1-3 days, then they stop working again. A relearn seems to always restore them to operation, but only temporarily. Especially bizarre is that they were working yesterday (after a relearn on Tuesday), did not work at all this morning, but were magically working again this evening. I don't think it's interference as I have no new wireless devices or LED lights nearby. And when the remotes aren't working, bringing them closer to the drive unit/antenna does not help--I can click them right under the antenna and get no response. I think being so close to the antenna would override just about any interference from the general area. When the remotes ARE working, they are fine from ~20 feet away. The door safety sensors are working fine (if they weren't, the hardwired wall switch would not work). I've also tried unplugging the unit for a while, and erasing all codes, but I just can't seem to get it to work reliably. I'm down to thinking it must be the logic board or receiver hardware, which doesn't seem worth replacing on such an old unit. I just hate to scrap it when it is otherwise working well, mechanically.
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Dec 15, 2023 08:10
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 Had somebody running ethernet cable in my house and they brought this to my attention. A ~4” hole at the top of my roof. It was too high for to get a good look at, but light’s coming through so it may only be the soffit on the other side. If that’s the case, what would be a good way to cover this up to prevent any small animals from getting in? I was thinking of bringing a ladder with some wood to brace it (all insulation up there), and using some expanding foam gap filler. Probably stapling some fine mesh across the gap first so the foam has more to adhere to.
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Dec 15, 2023 15:52
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Number_6 posted:Problem: 21 year old Liftmaster 1200 Professional 1/3 HP garage door opener, after a long life, is acting flaky. It works perfectly from the wall switch, but it seems to have lost the ability to maintain a connection to the remotes. (I have two remotes, both with fresh batteries.) The opener stops responding to the remotes. If I do a "relearn" for the remotes, they immediately work again--for 1-3 days, then they stop working again. A relearn seems to always restore them to operation, but only temporarily. Especially bizarre is that they were working yesterday (after a relearn on Tuesday), did not work at all this morning, but were magically working again this evening. It’s probably the logic board. They’re cheap(ish) and easier to replace than the whole unit.
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Dec 15, 2023 16:00
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H110Hawk posted:Since you live in dutchland - how far from major bodies of water are you? Canals and such. If you are close then this could indicate other issues if those are supposed to be keeping the water in the canal and otherwise haven't had their water rise. But ground water rising is a thing. Recently some town east of me up in the mountains had water percolating out of the ground across a whole block due to the extreme rainfall and snowpack. It was nuts.
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Dec 15, 2023 16:30
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Diplomat posted:
If it isn't already covered: from the outside, I'd slap a piece of screen mesh, then a gable vent cover over it to keep critters out. Having openings to the ambient in an unfinished attic space is a good thing, you need as much air circulation as possible.
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Dec 15, 2023 18:47
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Dr. Lunchables posted:It’s probably the logic board. They’re cheap(ish) and easier to replace than the whole unit. There are also standalone outboard remotes and receiver combos that you wire to the push-button terminals. I used one of those for quite a while when the receiver decided it no longer wished to do so on *my* 20-odd year old Liftmaster (it would no longer relearn remotes, and none worked. I fugure either the radio itself died, or the freq drifted enough that it wouldn't talk to the remotes any more.) I finally replaced the whole thing when it decided it couldn't sense the door moving any longer, and refused to open or close (there's a geared sensor that counts revolutions when the screw is, well, screwing. It might have been that, or it might have been the system board.) Final straw was when the case plastic started to just crumble when I was looking at the issue. Punted and got a new Genie with an app and internet connection.
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Dec 15, 2023 19:50
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PainterofCrap posted:If it isn't already covered: from the outside, I'd slap a piece of screen mesh, then a gable vent cover over it to keep critters out. Having openings to the ambient in an unfinished attic space is a good thing, you need as much air circulation as possible. I didn't consider air circulation, I'll go with your solution. Thanks.
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Dec 15, 2023 20:33
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Belt drive garage door openers are fantastic because they are so quiet. Every chain or screw drive one I've used has screamed like a banshee for 95% of its life.
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Dec 15, 2023 22:04
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Gunshow Poophole posted:I found a dead rat in my basement after the telltale smell. he wasn't very large, and we get occasional mice that the cats either kill or chase away, which is fine considering we live in a very small rural town. Rat seems to be an escalation though, and I know that where there is one there are usually more. If you look back a few pages I think there's some specific recommendations around this, but the general consensus was steel wool and spray foam. They don't like chewing on steel wool, and the spray foam keeps other smaller things out as well as holding the steel wool in place.
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Dec 16, 2023 01:13
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Darchangel posted:There are also standalone outboard remotes and receiver combos that you wire to the push-button terminals. I used one of those for quite a while when the receiver decided it no longer wished to do so on *my* 20-odd year old Liftmaster (it would no longer relearn remotes, and none worked. I fugure either the radio itself died, or the freq drifted enough that it wouldn't talk to the remotes any more.) I'm split between doing this or just getting a proper BT or Ethernet controller that actually wires up to my opener. I have a Genie belt-drive and added the Chamberlain MyQ gateway to it - which acts like a wireless remote when interacting with the opener. Problem is that the Genie has decided it only listens to remotes to open - MyQ, Homelink, and Genie remotes all open it 99.9% of the time. The only one that will close it is the wall button, even though the IR beam at the base of the door checks out fine.
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Dec 16, 2023 05:58
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Alright, I'm confused. The 120v 20A outlet that normally handles my clothes washer has stopped working. The breaker is fine, I've tested the wire and the outlet and they all read as outputting power but nothing actually gets juice. There's no other outlet that could be interfering with it, it's a dedicated outlet. I've hit the reset button and all that and nothing seems to work. I can replace the outlet no problem but am I missing something obvious?
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Dec 16, 2023 07:47
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By testing the outlet, you put a multimeter to the wires and into the outlet and got 120v?
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Dec 16, 2023 09:13
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GFCIs can stop working, especially if it’s an older kind with moving parts. If the outlet was working previously and all other signs indicate the circuit is energized, replace the outlet and see if that fixes the issue.
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Dec 16, 2023 12:32
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Are you sure its the outlet and not the washer?
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Dec 16, 2023 14:38
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Yeah, the whole reason GFCIs have test and reset buttons is that they can fail. Just had to replace one the other day that I personally installed as a brand new circuit a year or two ago. I will say I appreciate the newer Leviton GFCIs that have a status LED plainly visible, removes a lot of the guesswork. They're also set up to disable themselves if a test fails.
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Dec 16, 2023 15:07
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Well, that's annoying but better that they fail than catch fire! The contractors were using that outlet for a cement saw and tripped the breaker about a dozen times. I could imagine the outlet giving up the ghost first. Thankfully replacing outlets is easy, if a bit stressful.
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Dec 16, 2023 17:13
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go home and perform an hours worth of domestic labor  (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Dec 16, 2023 18:41
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GFCIs protect mostly against water, which is why they are usually located in wet environments like outside areas, bathrooms, and kitchens.
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Dec 16, 2023 20:54
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Can confirm that it was a dead outlet. Everything is up and running again and I somehow didn't electrocute myself. I'm so happy to live near a dozen hardware stores.
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Dec 16, 2023 21:54
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Inzombiac posted:Can confirm that it was a dead outlet. Everything is up and running again and I somehow didn't electrocute myself. 
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Dec 16, 2023 21:56
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Inzombiac posted:Can confirm that it was a dead outlet. Everything is up and running again and I somehow didn't electrocute myself. 
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Dec 17, 2023 00:56
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Lock Chat I want to modify a Weslock Colonial 1400 entry handleset to use a high-security cylinder like a bilock, abloy protec, or even an older medeco or assa cylinder. I do not actually need very high security, though it would be nice to have something bump-proof. Mostly I just want an upgrade from whatever garbage lock is probably in there right now (though if weslock is actually awesome, please tell me). And approximately 50% of my motivation is to have a weird and unusual key, so please take that into consideration. The detail that makes it fun: the condo association mandates this specific weslock handleset (it's a big condo complex, not a house). So I can't just upgrade it to something modern and good. Lots of people have installed separate deadbolts, which I guess I could do. Kinda don't want to, though. I would prefer to modify the Weslock Colonial 1400 to accept a different cylinder. There's a lot of room inside the handleset, and I think the weslock cylinder is larger than most. I am willing to design and fabricate custom metal parts, including machining the weslock handleset itself. This project is still in the research/evaluation phase. If there is a simple/normal way to put a different brand cylinder into this handleset, that would be best. I don't want to make custom parts unless I need to. (and please point me to the lock thread, if there is one)
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Dec 17, 2023 07:44
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ryanrs posted:Lock Chat There’s a picking thread, they tend to be pretty knowledgeable in general: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=4032748
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Dec 17, 2023 15:21
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ryanrs posted:Lock Chat You're going to hate your life if you replace your lock with a patented keyway which is how your question it worded. $20/key plus call out. Buy a rekey kit w/ security pins and it will be not bumpable anymore. A spool or serrated or 3 will give you double the security of all your neighbors. Which keyway is it? Kw1? (look on your key)
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Dec 17, 2023 18:15
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The Weslock cylinders are available in Kwikset and Schlage keyways. If I want to stick with Weslock cylinders, I would probably buy a new one with a Schlage keyway (SC1). The existing Weslock cylinder is a totally beat to poo poo KW1 that is decades old. e: I've installed and been on the signature card of a schlage primus system on a commercial building. I know what to expect and how to not get bitten, heh. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Dec 17, 2023 |
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Dec 17, 2023 19:56
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ryanrs posted:If I want to stick with Weslock cylinders, I would probably buy a new one with a Schlage keyway (SC1) Do this. Don't go patented.
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Dec 17, 2023 20:04
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ryanrs posted:approximately 50% of my motivation is to have a weird and unusual key, so please take that into consideration. I wasn't kidding about this. I think it would be amusing as hell to somehow install a Medeco Biaxial or Assa Twin, for example. Something with a big, meaty key. No electronics, magnets, or dimples, please.
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Dec 17, 2023 20:32
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ryanrs posted:I wasn't kidding about this. Then just call your local ASSA or Medeco dealer and tell them you want that. Make sure you get as many keys as you can stomach.
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Dec 17, 2023 20:56
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One day I will remember that the reason I don’t have a wrench that works in the space for my sewer trap is that you aren’t supposed to open it with a wrench, but today is not that day
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Dec 17, 2023 22:40
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An original Abloy design is unbumpable, unzippable, unzippable, unrakable, uncombable, and unpickable with lockpicks. And also decades out of patent! Of course if you get the weirdest burglar in the country who has the required tool with them, it's not going to do much. (You won't.)
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Dec 17, 2023 22:47
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Sounds like they want a funky looking key on their keychain as the primary thing, the increase in lock cylinder security is a secondary concern. It's their money so 
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Dec 17, 2023 23:03
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Does being out of patent mean I can actually order keys cut to code, or is it just theoretical? I'm worried the authorized locksmiths would still be bound by contract, and non-dealer locksmiths likely won't have the specialized key cutting machine for some old patented system. But even if buying all-new patented poo poo, 1 cylinder + 6 keys should be in the neighborhood of $200 or so, yeah?
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Dec 17, 2023 23:07
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I hope this is the right thread for this question I have this old lamp.  I think it was probably bought in the 1950s. Should I be doing anything to take care of this? I'm not sure what kind of metal it's made out of
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Dec 17, 2023 23:31
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