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MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

My dad has a generator attached to his well yeah.

I’m betting you could do the same.

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skybolt_1
Oct 21, 2010
Fun Shoe

Jenkl posted:

Homeowners thread: Our septic guy says he thinks it's highly unlikely we'll lose the house

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

GlyphGryph posted:

Apparently having a well means that losing power means losing water. That should have been obvious if I ever thought about it but I didnt. It is less than ideal. Not being able to flush for a day and a half is a real bummer during what is otherwise one of my favorite things.

Anyone know anything about getting a backup system installed? Because I dont even know where to start or how much I should be expected to pay for it. Can you attaching a camping genny to a house?

You'll have to be a lot more specific about your needs and potentially wants. This can be done with anything from a $600 portable generator and extension cord to a 5 figure whole house generator setup that automatically starts and runs for up to 3+ days off of a gigantic propane tank buried in your yard.

GlyphGryph
Jun 23, 2013

Down came the glitches and burned us in ditches and we slept after eating our dead.

Motronic posted:

You'll have to be a lot more specific about your needs and potentially wants. This can be done with anything from a $600 portable generator and extension cord to a 5 figure whole house generator setup that automatically starts and runs for up to 3+ days off of a gigantic propane tank buried in your yard.

All I really want is to be able to keep the well going so I have running water, although keeping the control system for the heat online would be a nice bonus. A portable generator would be preferable too, I guess, since I could use it for other things. I don't know what I need to actually make that happen, though - I guess that probably depends on how everything is hooked up?

Right now I'm basically in phase where I'm trying to figure out what questions I should even be asking to determine what I need to do next.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

GlyphGryph posted:

All I really want is to be able to keep the well going so I have running water, although keeping the control system for the heat online would be a nice bonus. A portable generator would be preferable too, I guess, since I could use it for other things. I don't know what I need to actually make that happen, though - I guess that probably depends on how everything is hooked up?

Right now I'm basically in phase where I'm trying to figure out what questions I should even be asking to determine what I need to do next.

Yeah and you’ll probably need an electrician to wire the generator hookup for you too since the well is probably directly wired in.

If the well is off on its own it wouldn’t be too bad.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Yeah, if you want a portable generator there are things than can be done to make this happen in an easier and less expensive way, like making your well and (I assume gas or oil) heater plug into an outlet rather than being directly hard wired. Then have alternate outlets next to them that go to an inlet on the outside of your house that you can plug your portable generator into. If the power goes out you swap the outlets these thing are attached to and fire up the generator.

You can also potentially go with a breaker interlock where your generator is fed to a breaker that can only be turned on when the main breaker is off. This will feed the entire house but you won't be able to run everything. Lights/TV/well/fossil heater/microwave/TVs/chargers/fridge/freezer work just fine on a 5k-7k generator. You aren't running your electric oven/dryer/water heater or the AC.

Then you get into more expensive solutions with separate panels for the generator to feed.

GlyphGryph
Jun 23, 2013

Down came the glitches and burned us in ditches and we slept after eating our dead.
Thanks, this has already been helpful on getting me started figuring out what to look for!

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




I missed water heater chat by a little bit but I've got a basic rear end question!

In our shower we don't have the most precise temperature control, in fact I usually have to turn it to scalding hot then back to ice cold, to get it to actually reach a happy medium. Is this something that flushing my water heater can help with? It's a gas water heater, I think installed in... 2020?

Pretend I know nothing about water heaters, because I don't.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Johnny Truant posted:

I missed water heater chat by a little bit but I've got a basic rear end question!

In our shower we don't have the most precise temperature control, in fact I usually have to turn it to scalding hot then back to ice cold, to get it to actually reach a happy medium. Is this something that flushing my water heater can help with? It's a gas water heater, I think installed in... 2020?

Pretend I know nothing about water heaters, because I don't.

Sounds like a typical (kohler) sticking pressure balancer and bad mixer cap. I'm sure other makes have similar issues.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




I can definitely report back the brand/model tonight - is that something I can reasonably fix myself?

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Jenkl posted:

Homeowners thread: Our septic guy says he thinks it's highly unlikely we'll lose the house
I'd like to thank the Academy and the hole in the ground that made this possible.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Johnny Truant posted:

I can definitely report back the brand/model tonight - is that something I can reasonably fix myself?

If it is or is like a Kohler it's $60 worth of parts that, providing nothing is super stuck because of crusty water, you can swap out in like 15 minutes with whater screwdriver/allen wrench you need to get the handle off (depends on the trim) an adjustable wrench (maybe), a #2-ish screw phillips driver to take off the valve and a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the balancer out after you've taken off the mixing valve. Put some silicone grease on the gaskets of the new parts and slam it all back together again.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Jenkl posted:

Homeowners thread: Our septic guy says he thinks it's highly unlikely we'll lose the house

:five: great job mods

TerminalSaint
Apr 21, 2007


Where must we go...

we who wander this Wasteland in search of our better selves?
When we'd lose power to the well pump at my family home we'd flush with a 5 gallon pail we filled from roof runoff if available, or one of the creeks on the property.

Baddog
May 12, 2001

TerminalSaint posted:

When we'd lose power to the well pump at my family home we'd flush with a 5 gallon pail we filled from roof runoff if available, or one of the creeks on the property.

Yep, and we also had a bunch of those kerosene lanterns.

Goddamn, my kid is gonna think I grew up in the 1800s.

And in the winter, it used to actually snow multiple feet at times! And I had to shovel my way 1/2 mile to the bus stop when it did! Gods honest truth!

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Motronic posted:

You can also potentially go with a breaker interlock where your generator is fed to a breaker that can only be turned on when the main breaker is off. This will feed the entire house but you won't be able to run everything. Lights/TV/well/fossil heater/microwave/TVs/chargers/fridge/freezer work just fine on a 5k-7k generator. You aren't running your electric oven/dryer/water heater or the AC.

Yep. We're doing this method and the peace of mind alone is worth it. My buddy still lives in Texas and worriedly sent me the article from a couple days ago, I guess someone sued the utility over the snowpocalypse and the judge said "yep they're not legally required to generate electricity". Fucker nearly froze to death in his own house, most of the pipes froze and burst.

Our generator (7500w continuous, 9500 peak) won't run the heater but it will at least run the Internet + microwave + standard 1800w space heater + TV laptops and phones for a couple of days. That ought to solve at least the 99th percentile of realistic prepper scenarios

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

There I fixed it no I didn't

There's a plastic... Drainage thing under there that is supposed to direct the water away from the house. The water just sort of was splashing off it with about half going back towards the house and then running down to the foundation. Now at least 98% of the water runs down the aluminum foil and ~36" away from the foundation

I'll go by the hardware store and get a proper fix tonight

skybolt_1
Oct 21, 2010
Fun Shoe

Motronic posted:

You can also potentially go with a breaker interlock where your generator is fed to a breaker that can only be turned on when the main breaker is off. This will feed the entire house but you won't be able to run everything. Lights/TV/well/fossil heater/microwave/TVs/chargers/fridge/freezer work just fine on a 5k-7k generator. You aren't running your electric oven/dryer/water heater or the AC.

I have done this at the past two houses I've owned using Reliance Transfer Switches and one house of a friends using a interlock kit and for my next house - assuming I don't go with a true whole-house unit - I would go with the interlock kit.

Yeah, you have to have a handful of functioning brain cells and know not to run your whole house AC and cooktop on it, you will have to brief your spouse on what not to do, but it is so much more convenient to have all the lights in the house work, and the well pump, and that one outlet that you plug your phone into, etc. rather than trying to guess ahead of time which circuits you must have protected.

Also, it's almost 2024 - buy an inverter generator when you do. I ended up with an Everlast because it was 1/4th the price of the Honda and offered a true 240v twist-lock hookup, but you can get smaller versions if you wanted to just power a single leg. The inverter makes such a difference with computers and other electronics.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

skybolt_1 posted:

Also, it's almost 2024 - buy an inverter generator when you do. I ended up with an Everlast because it was 1/4th the price of the Honda and offered a true 240v twist-lock hookup, but you can get smaller versions if you wanted to just power a single leg. The inverter makes such a difference with computers and other electronics.

Most non inverter generators that aren't the cheapest thing you can find do just fine as far as voltage/frequency/thd so I really wouldn't be concerned about that. The real trick of inverter generators is saving fuel and lower noise when, for the bulk of the time it's on, you aren't running at full RPMs which is pretty much the same noise level as full load. Those things will throttle down when you're just watching TV with the lights on or whatever and throttle up for the 45 seconds your well pump needs to run.

I guess my point is that it's great, but I wouldn't consider one necessary even if you're running electronics off of it. A mid level non inverter generac/briggs/honda is better than no generator because you can't afford a big enough inverter unit. Or a 2000 watt inverter that will stall if your fridge is running when the well pump turns on as opposed to the 7500 watt mid tier non-inverter you could get for the same price that will run all of those things and more.

skybolt_1
Oct 21, 2010
Fun Shoe

Motronic posted:

Most non inverter generators that aren't the cheapest thing you can find do just fine as far as voltage/frequency/thd so I really wouldn't be concerned about that. The real trick of inverter generators is saving fuel and lower noise when, for the bulk of the time it's on, you aren't running at full RPMs which is pretty much the same noise level as full load. Those things will throttle down when you're just watching TV with the lights on or whatever and throttle up for the 45 seconds your well pump needs to run.

I guess my point is that it's great, but I wouldn't consider one necessary even if you're running electronics off of it. A mid level non inverter generac/briggs/honda is better than no generator because you can't afford a big enough inverter unit. Or a 2000 watt inverter that will stall if your fridge is running when the well pump turns on as opposed to the 7500 watt mid tier non-inverter you could get for the same price that will run all of those things and more.

To be fair, my comparison was going from "balky, cantankerous 22 year old Coleman with a history of carb failures" to "brand new Champion inverter" so I am def. going to be biased. You are correct tho, for the money I could have gotten a generator that put out like 18kw and run my house plus my neighbors.

The throttle up / throttle down thing owns bones though.

GFBeach
Jul 6, 2005

Surrounded by wierdos
My front-loading, compact Samsung washing machine is making a ton of noise on the spin cycle to the point that it sounds like something is banging around. I'll call a technician soon but I'm steeling myself for the possibility of having to replace it outright. Because of size constraints, any replacement has to be compact, and it has be stackable. Is there a washing machine and dryer brand that doesn't suck these days?

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

skybolt_1 posted:

I have done this at the past two houses I've owned using Reliance Transfer Switches and one house of a friends using a interlock kit and for my next house - assuming I don't go with a true whole-house unit - I would go with the interlock kit.

Yeah, you have to have a handful of functioning brain cells and know not to run your whole house AC and cooktop on it, you will have to brief your spouse on what not to do, but it is so much more convenient to have all the lights in the house work, and the well pump, and that one outlet that you plug your phone into, etc. rather than trying to guess ahead of time which circuits you must have protected.

Also, it's almost 2024 - buy an inverter generator when you do. I ended up with an Everlast because it was 1/4th the price of the Honda and offered a true 240v twist-lock hookup, but you can get smaller versions if you wanted to just power a single leg. The inverter makes such a difference with computers and other electronics.

Alternatively if your utility allows it, this is an option too https://www.generlink.com/generlink.html

QuarkJets
Sep 8, 2008

GlyphGryph posted:

Apparently having a well means that losing power means losing water. That should have been obvious if I ever thought about it but I didnt. It is less than ideal. Not being able to flush for a day and a half is a real bummer during what is otherwise one of my favorite things.

Anyone know anything about getting a backup system installed? Because I dont even know where to start or how much I should be expected to pay for it. Can you attaching a camping genny to a house?

How is your well currently powered, is it hard-wired to your panel?

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
My parents are in a very rural area with a well and periodic power problems after storms. They went with a Powerwall instead of a replacement generator. Might be worth considering in place of the higher end generator options.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


skybolt_1 posted:

To be fair, my comparison was going from "balky, cantankerous 22 year old Coleman with a history of carb failures" to "brand new Champion inverter" so I am def. going to be biased. You are correct tho, for the money I could have gotten a generator that put out like 18kw and run my house plus my neighbors.

The throttle up / throttle down thing owns bones though.

Using the full range of variable speed can be an issue if you're running large inductive loads. At our old place we had a Generac 3kW inverter generator which was unable to start an older refrigerator when in Eco mode (the variable speed option) but had absolutely zero trouble when running at a higher RPM.

Additionally some inverter generators with electric start require an at least semi-charged battery to be present to run, even if you intend to pull start them. Some manufacturers rig the ignition system to be controlled by the inverter/engine controller, and I guess that the engine doesn't spin fast enough for long enough in a pull start to power up those circuits. A 12V jump pack for a car works just dandy though, and once the generator is running and producing power it will sustain itself without a battery.

Just some things to watch out for.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Which reminds me I should probably start and run the generator for the first time since summer

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



I should pull mine out and run it as well. It's been several years. It was run dry last time it was run, so it should be OK. Probably should change the oil.

I don't think I've put 24-hours on it since I bought it in 2002. Got it after a 4-day power outage here in NJ, I had to sleep in my car with an inverter & my CPAP.

PerniciousKnid
Sep 13, 2006

PainterofCrap posted:

I should pull mine out and run it as well. It's been several years. It was run dry last time it was run, so it should be OK. Probably should change the oil.

I don't think I've put 24-hours on it since I bought it in 2002. Got it after a 4-day power outage here in NJ, I had to sleep in my car with an inverter & my CPAP.

I was thinking about getting an inverter for emergency power from the car myself.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
Any recommendations for a small document safe that's as fireproof and waterproof as possible? It's to store our wills, which apparently have to exist as notarized physical copies and can't go into a safe deposit box in a bank - those apparently get locked if a bank sees a death notice and need a court order to open.

I figure if I put it in a basement corner it's as safe from fire as it gets, but floods are another question entirely.

skybolt_1
Oct 21, 2010
Fun Shoe

MJP posted:

Any recommendations for a small document safe that's as fireproof and waterproof as possible? It's to store our wills, which apparently have to exist as notarized physical copies and can't go into a safe deposit box in a bank - those apparently get locked if a bank sees a death notice and need a court order to open.

I figure if I put it in a basement corner it's as safe from fire as it gets, but floods are another question entirely.

IMO your best bet is to just use ziplock bags for the documents and any old fire safe that is rated to a level you feel comfortable. Most fire safes "require" that you open them periodically to dump humidity because of reasons, I solve this by just ziplocking everything so it doesn't get damp.

raggedphoto
May 10, 2008

I'd like to shoot you
Humidity is no joke inside safes, for a great example see the mold stains on my passport that caused raised eyebrows from customs.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

raggedphoto posted:

Humidity is no joke inside safes, for a great example see the mold stains on my passport that caused raised eyebrows from customs.

https://www.amazon.com/GoldenRod-Dehumidifier-Installation-Operation-Prevention/dp/B00D1WYXR0?th=1

Us TFR types have been using these things forever.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
My house has an indirect heating water tank as part of a boiler system for radiant heating in our house. I just took a look at our water heater because my wife wants to see if we can get the shower water hotter.

1. Water heater is set to 170 F (!)
2. Mixing valve is mixing it down to 110 F.

Is there any advantage to keeping the water heater that (what seems like insanely) high?

I should probably use the mixing valve to adjust the temperature up, right?

unknown
Nov 16, 2002
Ain't got no stinking title yet!


Yeah, 120f is what my hwt guy said to leave our system at, I was complaining and he said if that's not hot enough, I probably have an issue at the shower tap. (he was right, Moen cartridge was shot).

Edit, I've got a tankless system, 170f in your tank seems way high and is then mixed down? Almost sounds like they're compensating for a undersized tank.

unknown fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Dec 22, 2023

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
Keeping it hot and mixing down to not burning is to prevent build up of legionnaire's disease yeah? Also other bacteria because it's sitting at rapid pasteurization temps (though all you need for that is 15 seconds at 161ish tbh).

Yeah if you want hotter sink/shower water, adjust the mixing valve up a bit. Be careful if you have young kids.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

MJP posted:

Any recommendations for a small document safe that's as fireproof and waterproof as possible? It's to store our wills, which apparently have to exist as notarized physical copies and can't go into a safe deposit box in a bank - those apparently get locked if a bank sees a death notice and need a court order to open.

I figure if I put it in a basement corner it's as safe from fire as it gets, but floods are another question entirely.

Can’t you leave a copy on file with a lawyer for a pretty nominal fee?

QuarkJets
Sep 8, 2008

MJP posted:

Any recommendations for a small document safe that's as fireproof and waterproof as possible? It's to store our wills, which apparently have to exist as notarized physical copies and can't go into a safe deposit box in a bank - those apparently get locked if a bank sees a death notice and need a court order to open.

I figure if I put it in a basement corner it's as safe from fire as it gets, but floods are another question entirely.

I got a fire resistant bag, and inside that the papers are in a big ziploc bag. I put that on a tall shelf.

tumblr hype man
Jul 29, 2008

nice meltdown
Slippery Tilde

Cyrano4747 posted:

Can’t you leave a copy on file with a lawyer for a pretty nominal fee?

You can also see if your city/county/whatever jurisdiction has a will repository. The county I live in does, it’s like $20 to leave your will there and they’ll hold on to it.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

MJP posted:

those apparently get locked if a bank sees a death notice and need a court order to open.


This might not help you but that’s why my dad put me on the lockboxes so I can still access them.

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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



MJP posted:

Any recommendations for a small document safe that's as fireproof and waterproof as possible? It's to store our wills, which apparently have to exist as notarized physical copies and can't go into a safe deposit box in a bank - those apparently get locked if a bank sees a death notice and need a court order to open.

I figure if I put it in a basement corner it's as safe from fire as it gets, but floods are another question entirely.

I use a bog-standard firebox safe, about 14" cube. I keep it in the attic, locked at all times. You can ziploc your wills & keep them in one of these.

I have my notarized will in it. Everyone in my immediate family has a copy, it's in PDF and Word, on every hard drive & a couple of thumb drives, one also in the firebox.

I'm more worried about survivors getting my passwords, which are on an encrypted WORD document on a floppy disc, and one thumb drive. No one knows the password to open the WORD document but me, it's not written down anywhere.

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