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Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Bucnasti posted:

For hobby purposes on these modern compressors, a tank isn't necessary to maintain constant air pressure, but it's very useful as a second moisture trap.

I had one of those and found that it couldn't sustain more than 10 PSI constant air pressure, hence the need for a tank to act as a buffer.

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Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Radiation Cow posted:

I've unscrewed mine several times and no water has ever come out. Don't know if that means I'm in a bone-dry area, or that I don't use my airbrush enough.

Yeah it just means your air humidity is low. I also live in a dry area and I've never seen a single drop of water in my moisture trap, ever.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

jesus WEP posted:

this imo is the one big advantage citadel has, ive never really seen their paints out of stock. maybe on the day of a new box set release the local GW shop runs out of a colour or two but apart from that they’re super reliable

If you're in the UK it's likely you'll have a GW shop in town which like you said will almost always have the full selection of citadel. Compared to Vallejo or the other brands which are stocked very sparsely and have to be mail ordered. The cost means its very expensive if you just need a single bottle.

Geisladisk posted:

Yeah it just means your air humidity is low. I also live in a dry area and I've never seen a single drop of water in my moisture trap, ever.

Only time I've ever seen moisture in my brush was when I decided to try spraying with a propellant can. The pressure differential is a lot higher there which makes it go a whole lot colder and prone to condensation.

Bored Online
May 25, 2009

We don't need Rome telling us what to do.
Anyone have experience with vallejo xpress paints in the airbrush? Does the increased drying time make this a bad idea?

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Bored Online posted:

Anyone have experience with vallejo xpress paints in the airbrush? Does the increased drying time make this a bad idea?

I would have to assume the increased drying time, if anything, would prevent dry tip at the least, and potentially make cleaning easier. I have heard that the different application style can somewhat subdue the contrast effects, making it work more like a translucent paint shot through the airbrush. That could still be good and helpful, but potentially different than the look you are going for.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Extended drying time is only bad for airbrushing if you don't let the layers dry first. A quick google brings up Angel Giraldez using them (because he's sponsored I think) for airbrushing so if he can do it... I'm pretty sure it means the paints are usable for airbrush.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqiQKLmmklw

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Jonny Nox posted:

Late to Airbrush chat but I've been using the Paasche TG Talon and it's really good and I don't know why more people don't talk about them.

Great beginner airbrush because the hole from the paint pot to the tip is larger (because of stepped needle) and easier to clean.

edit: The kit I bought has a .25, .38 and .66mm needles that interchange really smartly (because of stepped needles)

That was my first airbrush and it's such a weirdly engineered piece of poo poo that I almost quit building models altogether. I hate literally everything about that brush and would end up spending about 5 minutes getting trash airbrushing results and then spending upwards of 30 minutes cleaning the thing. As a last ditch, I got a Badger 105 and it was night and day. gently caress Badger and all, but that thing is the most durable thing of all time. I once left it full of paint (accidentally) and went on vacation and came back to an absolute mess. less than 5 minutes later I was painting. Now I use an Eclipse for details and the 105 for priming/basecoating.

NinjaDebugger
Apr 22, 2008


EdsTeioh posted:

That was my first airbrush and it's such a weirdly engineered piece of poo poo that I almost quit building models altogether. I hate literally everything about that brush and would end up spending about 5 minutes getting trash airbrushing results and then spending upwards of 30 minutes cleaning the thing. As a last ditch, I got a Badger 105 and it was night and day. gently caress Badger and all, but that thing is the most durable thing of all time. I once left it full of paint (accidentally) and went on vacation and came back to an absolute mess. less than 5 minutes later I was painting. Now I use an Eclipse for details and the 105 for priming/basecoating.

I don't know how long ago you got yours but I got my 105 a year ago and it was kind of rubbish. I don't really use it for anything but prime, light map, and sometimes base coat though, so it is sufficient

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


NinjaDebugger posted:

I don't know how long ago you got yours but I got my 105 a year ago and it was kind of rubbish. I don't really use it for anything but prime, light map, and sometimes base coat though, so it is sufficient

Probably been 5 years at least. I really hate that Michael's stopped carrying parts for them because it was v handy to be able to grab needles and nozzles with a 40% off coupon and just keep them around for when I invariably need one.

EDIT: Badger lately though, since they started doing those birthday sales has apparently seen a massive dropoff in quality from what I hear.

NinjaDebugger
Apr 22, 2008


EdsTeioh posted:

Probably been 5 years at least. I really hate that Michael's stopped carrying parts for them because it was v handy to be able to grab needles and nozzles with a 40% off coupon and just keep them around for when I invariably need one.

EDIT: Badger lately though, since they started doing those birthday sales has apparently seen a massive dropoff in quality from what I hear.

Yeah, I'm thinking of ditching the 105s and moving to something high quality, but I'm not sure what at this point.

poop chute
Nov 16, 2023

by Athanatos

NinjaDebugger posted:

I don't know how long ago you got yours but I got my 105 a year ago and it was kind of rubbish. I don't really use it for anything but prime, light map, and sometimes base coat though, so it is sufficient

Oh thank god, it’s not just me. Mine clogs loving constantly, no matter how much I clean it. I have a Christmas present on hold until I can get some time to soak it in LA Totally Awesome Cleaner and then scrub it for an hour, thing is infuriating.

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

Eej posted:

Extended drying time is only bad for airbrushing if you don't let the layers dry first. A quick google brings up Angel Giraldez using them (because he's sponsored I think) for airbrushing so if he can do it... I'm pretty sure it means the paints are usable for airbrush.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqiQKLmmklw

Thanks for this, I was asking previously about Contrast paints (which I believe are interchangeable enough with Xpress Paint) through an airbrush to paint a tank to match my army painted with a Contrast colour (Sigvald Burgundy)

Because of the nature of the technique I'm not 100% sure, but it seems like the colour will be even and not really do the pooling you get when using a normal brush? Probably what makes it useful for vehicles but it will mean I'll need to do something to make it not look flat since this will be over a silver basecoat. Maybe the shade wash will sort it?

NinjaDebugger
Apr 22, 2008


poop chute posted:

Oh thank god, it’s not just me. Mine clogs loving constantly, no matter how much I clean it. I have a Christmas present on hold until I can get some time to soak it in LA Totally Awesome Cleaner and then scrub it for an hour, thing is infuriating.

I soak mine in a little paint container full of 99 percent ipa, a few hours in that, or overnight, then go at it with the cleaning brush and tiny makeup stick things

poop chute
Nov 16, 2023

by Athanatos

NinjaDebugger posted:

I soak mine in a little paint container full of 99 percent ipa, a few hours in that, or overnight, then go at it with the cleaning brush and tiny makeup stick things

That’s a good idea, I’ll give it a run.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

BizarroAzrael posted:

Thanks for this, I was asking previously about Contrast paints (which I believe are interchangeable enough with Xpress Paint) through an airbrush to paint a tank to match my army painted with a Contrast colour (Sigvald Burgundy)

Because of the nature of the technique I'm not 100% sure, but it seems like the colour will be even and not really do the pooling you get when using a normal brush? Probably what makes it useful for vehicles but it will mean I'll need to do something to make it not look flat since this will be over a silver basecoat. Maybe the shade wash will sort it?

I haven't tried it myself but from what I have watched in painting videos, contrast paints through an airbrush end up being very translucent almost like a filter. So yeah, you don't get the pooling but you may get a very even spraying of transparent colour, which might get you what you want anyway because the underlying white to black gradient will make it look lighter or darker.

Loden Taylor
Aug 11, 2003

BizarroAzrael posted:

Thanks for this, I was asking previously about Contrast paints (which I believe are interchangeable enough with Xpress Paint) through an airbrush to paint a tank to match my army painted with a Contrast colour (Sigvald Burgundy)

Because of the nature of the technique I'm not 100% sure, but it seems like the colour will be even and not really do the pooling you get when using a normal brush? Probably what makes it useful for vehicles but it will mean I'll need to do something to make it not look flat since this will be over a silver basecoat. Maybe the shade wash will sort it?

Instead of airbrushing contrast paints, you may want to use acrylic inks instead. It'll be the same effect, and you'll get about twice as much for the same price.

As far as creating depth, you can achieve that with your basecoat. Prime black, then do a zenithal using progressively brighter metallics. You can do that with either the airbrush or by drybrushing - airbrushing will be more even, but drybrushing will make edges pop more and will preserve the panel lines and dark recesses a bit better. When you lay your transparent color layer over it, you'll get a full range of color intensity and reflectiveness.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

NinjaDebugger posted:

Yeah, I'm thinking of ditching the 105s and moving to something high quality, but I'm not sure what at this point.

If you have the money in your hobby budget, the H&S Infinity is really, really nice.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte
The new H&S Evolution line releases in 2 weeks and looks incredible, by the way.

Bo-Pepper
Sep 9, 2002

Want some rye?
Course ya do!

Fun Shoe
Feeling pretty good about this guy! Still slowly working through my Ork combat patrol box. NO I WILL NOT OPEN THE KILL RIG BOX I GOT FOR MY BIRTHDAY

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

Loden Taylor posted:

Instead of airbrushing contrast paints, you may want to use acrylic inks instead. It'll be the same effect, and you'll get about twice as much for the same price.

As far as creating depth, you can achieve that with your basecoat. Prime black, then do a zenithal using progressively brighter metallics. You can do that with either the airbrush or by drybrushing - airbrushing will be more even, but drybrushing will make edges pop more and will preserve the panel lines and dark recesses a bit better. When you lay your transparent color layer over it, you'll get a full range of color intensity and reflectiveness.

Whole reason I'm looking into it is too colour match against what I'm using on my infantry. Will see about ordering more metalics.

Bo-Pepper
Sep 9, 2002

Want some rye?
Course ya do!

Fun Shoe
Some boyz!

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Yeast posted:

The new H&S Evolution line releases in 2 weeks and looks incredible, by the way.

Oh, snap, I didn't know about this. The reengineered components will still work with the rest of the standard H&S mounts and guts, right?

Bo-Pepper
Sep 9, 2002

Want some rye?
Course ya do!

Fun Shoe
I’m going to drill the bores. I’m well aware!

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

grassy gnoll posted:

Oh, snap, I didn't know about this. The reengineered components will still work with the rest of the standard H&S mounts and guts, right?

Yep!

I use an infinity and an Evolution, and the new Evolution looks genuinely exciting.

Easier to clean, on brush PSI control, physically smaller and lighter.

I’m curious to see about the new needle size changes- nothing dramatic but supposedly more resistant.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Bo-Pepper posted:

I’m going to drill the bores. I’m well aware!

it's not that important with orks

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!

Cease to Hope posted:

it's not that important with orks

It's important to drill them. It's not important to drill them on-center :hmmorks:

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Kylaer posted:

It's important to drill them. It's not important to drill them on-center :hmmorks:

any given ork gun could be a directed energy weapon

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!

Cease to Hope posted:

any given ork gun could be a directed energy weapon

Those are for weedy gits. A proper Ork needs more dakka :orks101:

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


NinjaDebugger posted:

Yeah, I'm thinking of ditching the 105s and moving to something high quality, but I'm not sure what at this point.

Iwata NEO is prob what I'd replace my 105 with if I ever needed to.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
If you're not going to drill your barrels, at least clean the mold line off the ends.

Other than that those are some fine lookin boyz.

Bo-Pepper
Sep 9, 2002

Want some rye?
Course ya do!

Fun Shoe
Yeah I need to find my dremel. It’s somewhere in the basement.

Still enjoying painting these dudes for these recent weeks after not doing it for .. 35 years?

NinjaDebugger
Apr 22, 2008


EdsTeioh posted:

Iwata NEO is prob what I'd replace my 105 with if I ever needed to.

This is probably slightly more likely for me, I'm a little sore at h&s over the gw master class thing at gencon before last

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

EdsTeioh posted:

Iwata NEO is prob what I'd replace my 105 with if I ever needed to.

Get an Eclipse if you can afford it. Doesn't cost that much more and is much nicer, particularly if you're already familiar with an airbrush and aren't going to break it.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Bo-Pepper posted:

Yeah I need to find my dremel. It’s somewhere in the basement.

you can do barrels with the point of an xacto pretty easily

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
One stand of knights down! One more to go for an 8-knight squadron.

Ominous Jazz
Jun 15, 2011

Big D is chillin' over here
Wasteland style

I have this monk figure and I wanna put him on this arm, like he's balancing on a golden Buddha statue. But I wanna make the have clouds like the statue is high on a mountain or something. I'm not sure how to get that across. Definitely biting off more than I can chew.

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
If you have an idea, try sketching it out. It can help you figure out how/where you're going to anchor things.



So, based on your description (golden arm and clouds) this probably doesn't need to actually be super tall. The arm just needs to be a bit above the base. You just need something to prop up the arm, so some spirals of green stuff that are offset towards the area where the arm's been cut off and leaving most of the arm unsupported is probably roughly what you want.

When you go to position / glue down the monk, try dipping his lower half in hot / boiled (but not boiling) water. Get his feet nice and soft, then glue them down and you can bend them a bit to conform to the arm, which might help make them look less flat.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Z the IVth posted:

Get an Eclipse if you can afford it. Doesn't cost that much more and is much nicer, particularly if you're already familiar with an airbrush and aren't going to break it.

It *IS* a much better brush since it's actually an Iwata whereas the NEO isn't actually made by them. Still, NEOs go for about $80 and I paid like $180 for my Eclipse on sale and wouldn't use it as a beater the way I do my 105 or a NEO.

NinjaDebugger posted:

This is probably slightly more likely for me, I'm a little sore at h&s over the gw master class thing at gencon before last

Spill the tea plz.

Ominous Jazz
Jun 15, 2011

Big D is chillin' over here
Wasteland style

PoptartsNinja posted:

If you have an idea, try sketching it out. It can help you figure out how/where you're going to anchor things.



So, based on your description (golden arm and clouds) this probably doesn't need to actually be super tall. The arm just needs to be a bit above the base. You just need something to prop up the arm, so some spirals of green stuff that are offset towards the area where the arm's been cut off and leaving most of the arm unsupported is probably roughly what you want.

When you go to position / glue down the monk, try dipping his lower half in hot / boiled (but not boiling) water. Get his feet nice and soft, then glue them down and you can bend them a bit to conform to the arm, which might help make them look less flat.

I couldn't find good cloud advice for minis but this is super useful and what I was thinking! I've used hot water to try and get a mini looser to pose.

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PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
The other option would be to hold it up with pins and use stretched cotton balls, which will look more like wispy clouds but will also be quite easily damaged. That works for a display piece, but isn't great for a piece you want to use for a game.

That's how I did this baby yoda:

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