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Nerobro posted:We traded leads on where to get it. I bought a half gallon.. and still have most of it. And it's where we developed the techniques for saving the alcohol. Using the sun, filtering, multiple baths, etc... Oh wow that's pretty interesting. I'm doing that stuff now and never really knew what gave people the idea to do so since it's common practice nowadays. Right now I'm doing 3 stage IPA baths for my parts (1st stage is a quick and dirty to get the bulk off, quick dip in hot water to soften supports, 2nd stage is giving parts a good scrubbing with a toothbrush after support removal, 3rd stage is wash station before drying then curing) to try and minimize overall waste and needing to filter IPA for reuse. I also have IPA in a multipurpose sprayer to help clean off the build plate and stuff I print. Once I start printing larger items like figures, I want to have a larger container for my 1st stage wash, hence the want for more alcohol to fill the larger volume, plus I like just having extra supplies.
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Dec 24, 2023 00:45
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An ultrasonic bath is awesome for resin. Fill the bath with water, use the wash station buckets on it, (displace the water, use something heavy to keep it under) also 3 stages. I also use flocculant to make the IPA last longer. Using buckets, Mason jars and zip lock bags on the ultrasonic bath means less wasted cleaning chemicals.
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Dec 24, 2023 01:26
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Unperson_47 posted:Y'all talking about buying gallons of alcohol made me think: what was it like during the height of COVID when alcohol was hard to come by? Just let your printers hibernate? Believe it or not, I actually got in touch with my barber. Barber supply shops were hurting, obviously, since their customer base was frozen but they sell IPA among all the other stuff. I told him to figure out a markup for a couple gallons as his middleman fee and we'd be square. Worked out well for both of us. I usually use denatured alcohol these days though.
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Dec 24, 2023 01:54
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Splode posted:Are there any situations where grid infill is better than gyroid? I had a print in ASA where grid was significantly more resistant to warping than gyroid.
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Dec 24, 2023 08:42
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The convenience + speed + quality factor that Bambu brings is just out of this world. Brought our mini to family Christmas but left the AMS at home and have been cranking stuff out, mostly just launching prints from Bambu Handy. So far have printed so many fidget toys, articulated many things, ornaments in dual extrusion, replacement balls for kid toys, and parts for board games (Hues and Cues scoring grid is a must-do-upgrade that prints in minutes).
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Dec 25, 2023 15:59
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Yeah, my parents visited this Christmas and really liked some of the golden stars + snowflake decorations I had on my tree, so I printed out a bunch for them while they were here. They'd seen my old CR-6, and thought that was kinda novel though slow, but they were really enthusiastic seeing a X1 just puke out stuff on demand.
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Dec 25, 2023 16:35
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Howdy folks. I ended up with a Ender 3 S1 for Christmas and am in the process of getting started with it. I've got some upgrades identified and am getting the software stack together for it, but was curious if there was any guidance on stuff like screw/bolt packs. Is my assumption that most things are m3 based more or less on the money?
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Dec 26, 2023 18:20
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I just grabbed a random rear end hardware set from Amazon with a bunch of different poo poo in it.
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Dec 26, 2023 18:24
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What little I’ve done so far has mostly M3 or M4.
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Dec 26, 2023 20:35
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I could use some advice. My current printer is an original CR-10 that I've had for a long time. I upgraded the board in it years ago and that's it. I still use it but I always have to tinker with it to get it to print decent. I'm looking at replacing it with some of the newer printers and am either looking at the Bambu A1 or the Ender 3 KE. Any pros or cons between the 2 other than price?
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Dec 26, 2023 20:42
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Reviews are generally quite good on that Ender 3 KE, and the Tinker Factor on most of these newer budget printers seems to have gone down pretty substantially compared to older models. If you'd rather not spend Bambu money right now then that'd probably be a pretty solid choice. Personally, I'd choose the A1 if the extra expenditure wasn't a concern, but I'm also a certified card-carrying fanboy. my fourth Bambu printer (an A1) was delivered today and is just waiting for me to get home from work
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Dec 26, 2023 21:18
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Acid Reflux posted:Reviews are generally quite good on that Ender 3 KE, and the Tinker Factor on most of these newer budget printers seems to have gone down pretty substantially compared to older models. If you'd rather not spend Bambu money right now then that'd probably be a pretty solid choice. I don't mind dropping money on a printer if it's worth it. I've gotten my fill of tinkering with my cr-10 over the years and just want something robust and somewhat reliable that is more of a set it and forget it kind of thing.
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Dec 26, 2023 21:31
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I've got a k1 max and honestly I'm loving it. The new gen of printers isn't quite 100% plug and play lob a model walk off and boom it's done, but it's leagues better than it used to be.
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Dec 26, 2023 21:38
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Ugh. I got a Revo 6 for my MK3S+ for Christmas. I installed it last night, flashed the firmware, calibrated the thermal model and PID, then noticed my filament sensor wasn't acting right. I think I must have nicked the wire enough to make the printer not recognize it reliably. It's odd though - if you look at the readout for the filament sensor it reads properly, but the printer refuses to use it for loading filament or anything. Now I have a replacement sensor and cable to troubleshoot, I'm not looking forward to tearing apart the entire hotend/extruder assembly and Einsy box to troubleshoot this one. I guess I can run without a filament sensor for a while.
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Dec 27, 2023 03:33
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smax posted:Ugh. Are you sure it has nothing to do with the firmware you flashed?
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Dec 27, 2023 06:19
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Prusa provides official Revo6 firmware now because the thermal model is different enough that the new code causes problems. So that's unlikely to be the cause.
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Dec 27, 2023 06:39
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Do3d has some free models for the next few days, one per day. Right now Captain Enoch and a Spiderman/venom variant are up for grabs. Check out their faypage for the codes and whatnot.
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Dec 27, 2023 08:47
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mrbass21 posted:Are you sure it has nothing to do with the firmware you flashed? I’ve tried several different versions at this point, none of them worked (including the version that worked before the install).
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Dec 27, 2023 12:59
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deimos posted:An ultrasonic bath is awesome for resin. Fill the bath with water, use the wash station buckets on it, (displace the water, use something heavy to keep it under) also 3 stages. I also use flocculant to make the IPA last longer. What flocculant works? I tried one that I can't even remember like a year ago and it was a horrible failure that made a huge mess and wasted everything I put in to it. I haven't tried again since then.
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Dec 27, 2023 14:23
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bird food bathtub posted:What flocculant works? I tried one that I can't even remember like a year ago and it was a horrible failure that made a huge mess and wasted everything I put in to it. I haven't tried again since then. I use aluminum sulfate. Basically I lined a box with a UV led strip, I pour the IPA into 2L bottles and give it a nice UV shower (at least 15 minutes, shaking every 5). I add a teaspoon of flocculant then shake. Let it settle at least overnight, decant the IPA through a filter back into the cleaning station container, throw the solids into a large disposable aluminum food tray with lid (can also use steam table pans), let the IPA evaporate then blast it with UV again, the tray stays around until it's full enough to dispose of. The important thing is that the IPA will still be hazy, that's fine. Still works. E: this is what works for me, I derived it from what I have available to me and what I have read, I do not know the science behind it.
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Dec 27, 2023 16:38
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Prusa has sent another response to my November 7 quote request:quote:About SLX - you can find some basic info on our article here: https://www.prusa3d.com/applications/prusa-pro-slx_236051/ Maybe they're only talking to the largest potential customers? I really thought that the Pro SLX was further along in development than this response seems to indicate
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Dec 27, 2023 17:29
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After enjoying tinkering with and using my ender 3 pro, and then seeing all the rave reviews of Bambu stuff here, I am really considering buying a p1s, as I'm now more interested in actually printing things than I am with just tinkering. Before I do that though, are there any negatives or things to look out for with that model? I just wanna know what I'm getting into besides "it's great!"
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Dec 27, 2023 17:59
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Snackmar posted:I really thought that the
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Dec 27, 2023 18:03
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hark posted:After enjoying tinkering with and using my ender 3 pro, and then seeing all the rave reviews of Bambu stuff here, I am really considering buying a p1s, as I'm now more interested in actually printing things than I am with just tinkering. I don't have one, but my understanding is that the biggest issue is that it's closed source. So you need to treat it as a lot more of a black box appliance than you're used to with your Ender 3 Pro. It should "just work" a lot faster than the ender, but if you do find that you want to tweak stuff your options will be more limited and more expensive. That said, I have two Ender 3 pros that I've heavily modified and that run great for me, and I still feel the Bambu draw pretty strongly. I would want one of the higher end models with the AMS though, because the printers I have already meet my needs so I would need some real solid upgrade features to make me feel like I was getting my money's worth. (Just printing a lot faster isn't a huge benefit to me, because I don't print that much stuff over all and so I don't care a whole lot about the long print times.)
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Dec 27, 2023 18:06
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deimos posted:I use aluminum sulfate. Basically I lined a box with a UV led strip, I pour the IPA into 2L bottles and give it a nice UV shower (at least 15 minutes, shaking every 5). I add a teaspoon of flocculant then shake. Let it settle at least overnight, decant the IPA through a filter back into the cleaning station container, throw the solids into a large disposable aluminum food tray with lid (can also use steam table pans), let the IPA evaporate then blast it with UV again, the tray stays around until it's full enough to dispose of. The important thing is that the IPA will still be hazy, that's fine. Still works. Looking at it that may be what I used last time. I remember it was mainly marketed as a fertilizer compound. Wonder what I did wrong? I ended up giving it to my neighbor for their garden.
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Dec 27, 2023 18:09
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hark posted:After enjoying tinkering with and using my ender 3 pro, and then seeing all the rave reviews of Bambu stuff here, I am really considering buying a p1s, as I'm now more interested in actually printing things than I am with just tinkering. I'll go through what I've experienced so far having both printers. I'm also going to only focus on the negatives of the P1S that have annoyed me. Love my P1S. Anything I care about goes to that printer. * The AMS sometimes has dumb retraction issues for no reason I can see * I'm worried about cardboard spools, so I respool to plastic, which has sometimes broken my (probably too moist) filament * The camera sucks. I mean. It's great to have one at all now, but it's like .5 FPS and the clients sometimes can't connect at all and I just stare at a black screen and reboot the software endlessly until I hope it works. It seems to have gotten more unreliable with the latest Bambu Studio update. * The build plate has to be _exactly_ laid down correctly on the magnetic base for prints to work * The waste on multi color prints is pretty excessive and despite ways to tune it down, it's still not great * Nozzle changes require replacing the whole hot end assembly. If you want to cheap out, new ones from Bambu are $12. You need to put thermal grease on the hot end and remove the thermistor assembly from the old hot end and place it on the new assembly. Same for the cooling fan. Alternatively, you can buy a complete assembly from bambu for like $35, then it's "Remove two screws and disconnect 2 cables attached to the old hot end. Replace with the new one and reconnect cables from the new hot end and screw back in place. * Probably not as much customization with third party parts as you're used to with an Ender. There's no way to PID tune a bambu, so depending on what third party part you try to install, you have have issues with offsets or heating. But likely you're wanting to get a bambu so you _don't_ have to tinker with the printer, and I've had great success with using the first party stuff. Additionally, I got a build plate from AlliExpress with some cool patterns and prints still stick really well and have come out great. That's all I can think of at this moment. I'll edit my post if I think of any others (or experience any). I still run my Ender pro all the time and I'm having fun with it. But the bambu is just chugging upstairs. I still have failed prints, but I did something dumb in a slicer setting. Not "Oh poo poo. I need to do a PID tune or mess with the drive belts or z screw" and I don't have to touch bed leveling at all. I guess that's true for all modern 3D printers, but gently caress me am I glad I don't have to dick with z offsets and warped beds. mrbass21 fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Dec 27, 2023 |
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Dec 27, 2023 18:56
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I swear there's a break-in process to the AMS. I was having endless retraction issues in slot 4 that eventually went away after a few weeks.
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Dec 27, 2023 19:12
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I have also suffered from dumb retraction issues that just went away. I'd add that the screen is vestigial and completely pointless to me. The camera is really only good to tell you if the print stuck to the bed, can't even see things like corner lift. The AMS is not perfect by any means and for me the main issue is you can't tell the printer you changed filament mid print, so if you are going to run out your options are to pause and reload only into that exact ams slot, or wait for it to run out. You can't preload another slot, cause you can't tell the printer you did this during a print. Edit: If I needed a new printer right now, I'd get the X1C so I could jailbreak it. Otherwise, I'd just get a P1S again.
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Dec 27, 2023 19:19
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Bondematt posted:I have also suffered from dumb retraction issues that just went away. Minor clarification on that last point. If you load filament and set it to the same type and color, you can set the AMS to automatically use identical filament in different slots if it runs out in one slot. I use cloud print and I think another user was using LAN only and they could not set that option. Edit: poo poo. Just reread your post and now understand what you are saying and you are correct. I’ll leave original text in case that’s helpful to anyone.
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Dec 27, 2023 19:22
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You can't tell it to use blue for layers 1-30 and red in layers 32-60, and both are coming from slot 3. I believe you can still just pause at layer 31 and manually swap the filament. Otoh, you can have up to 16 slots, so it's not that big a deal (slot 5 is the expensive one, needing the AMS hub and the AMS. 1-4, 9-12, and 13-16 are all just the AMS unit itself). The AMS cords are pretty short, too.
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Dec 27, 2023 19:36
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ilkhan posted:You can't tell it to use blue for layers 1-30 and red in layers 32-60, and both are coming from slot 3. I believe you can still just pause at layer 31 and manually swap the filament. Speaking of which. Are there longer ones available? Is it some standard type you need to get third party? I wonder how Bambu expects you to run 4 of these with the short cables they sell.
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Dec 27, 2023 19:42
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I had some issues with my X1C for a week after I first got it which can go into your negatives column but a combination of things eliminated any issues I had: 1. The textured PEI plate is just much better than the cool plate 95% of the time. Any under or over adhesion issues I had disappeared 2. Firmware/software updates can cause print issues. This is a commonly reported issue on the bambu forums that for some reason people have issues after software or firmware updates. I rolled back and many of my issues disappeared. 3. Orcaslicer might perform better if you are having issues. I’ve had more success with prints on orca slicer rather than bambu studio. Might be related to point #2. 4. Cold pull at least once a week. Crud in the nozzle can be an issue if you don’t. 5. Multicolor does create a lot of waste. It’s less Evan it looks like but still significant I’ve been running about 2 weeks straight with no failed prints of extrusion issues. Future
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Dec 27, 2023 19:44
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Saltpowered posted:1. The textured PEI plate is just much better than the cool plate 95% of the time. Any under or over adhesion issues I had disappeared Yeah, I never understood why the X1C comes with that plate when smooth & textured PEI exist and are both superior. Does the Engineering plate do something those don't?
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Dec 27, 2023 19:50
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It provides a better smooth finish but I don’t use it much. My wham bam smooth plate needs to be scuffed for adhesion and the scuffs transfer to the print surface.
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Dec 27, 2023 21:05
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Bondematt posted:Yeah, I never understood why the X1C comes with that plate when smooth & textured PEI exist and are both superior. The 'lidar' is still somewhat experimental with the PEI/textured sheet, that's the primary reason it only comes with smooth plates. It took around a year before they started rolling out experimental support for calibration and etc on the textured plate. Once that's a solved problem, the X2 will probably come with a textured PEI plate for PLA and etc. Saltpowered posted:4. Cold pull at least once a week. Crud in the nozzle can be an issue if you don’t. What. Are you printing something exceptionally exotic or what? I've had mine since April and have never needed to do one. SubNat fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Dec 27, 2023 |
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Dec 27, 2023 21:10
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bird food bathtub posted:Looking at it that may be what I used last time. I remember it was mainly marketed as a fertilizer compound. Wonder what I did wrong? I ended up giving it to my neighbor for their garden. Try using a pool flocculant, those seem to work fairly well and are liquid.
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Dec 27, 2023 21:19
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Is there a place where I can go that will list common 3d print failures and how to resolve them? I printed a little 💩 container out of PETG (first time) last night, and roughly 1/4th of the piece had mostly-unmelted filament -- all in the same area looking down from the top. I'm going to calibrate again and double-check my temperature settings, but I figured I'd cover all the bases. I've done a dozen PLA prints that were mostly perfect, except for humidity, and I've got a dehydrator box going now. Printer is an Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro.
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Dec 27, 2023 21:40
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This one's a bit out of date but may get you on the path to finding answers. https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/
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Dec 27, 2023 21:49
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Saltpowered posted:2. Firmware/software updates can cause print issues. This is a commonly reported issue on the bambu forums that for some reason people have issues after software or firmware updates. I rolled back and many of my issues disappeared. I haven't noticed these, or even thought about cleaning the nozzle I've only done ~200h of printing of PLA/ASA/TPU/PAHT-CF sofar, though.
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Dec 27, 2023 21:49
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BlackIronHeart posted:This one's a bit out of date but may get you on the path to finding answers. Thanks. None of these really fit, but it's a good resource to have regardless. Does bed temperature matter after a few layers have been printed? I'm thinking maybe that quadrant of the bed might just be a few degrees cooler than the rest and bumping the entire temperature would help. I set it to 80°C but I can go higher.
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Dec 27, 2023 22:09
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