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Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

GreenBuckanneer posted:

What's the best way to paint white without having to do multiple layers?

there isn't

getting a nice artist's titanium white will help, but pretty much it's just a matter of layering

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GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Cease to Hope posted:

there isn't

getting a nice artist's titanium white will help, but pretty much it's just a matter of layering

That's poopy mcpooperson.

iospace
Jan 19, 2038


GreenBuckanneer posted:

What's the best way to paint white without having to do multiple layers?

Start with white primer.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

GreenBuckanneer posted:

What's the best way to paint white without having to do multiple layers?

Get a better white paint that doesn’t need multiple layers.

Mercurius
May 4, 2004

Amp it up.

GreenBuckanneer posted:

What's the best way to paint white without having to do multiple layers?
Something like ProAcryl's Bold Titanium White will be better but you'll still probably need at least 2 thinned layers if you're painting anything larger than eyes.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

New Year New Space Marine!




Also I was gonna do a year in review yesterday but it would have just been Oops! All Deathwatch.

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

iospace posted:

Start with white primer.

Pretty sure it's this, followed by an appropriate contrast or shade wash.

Maybe if less than half the model is white you could just selectively paint white then do the above, but that will probably still need a coat oor two if it's pure white. Bone or grey base coat paints may go on in one go, depending on manufacturer.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

Mercurius posted:

Something like ProAcryl's Bold Titanium White will be better but you'll still probably need at least 2 thinned layers if you're painting anything larger than eyes.

This is the way and the truth.

Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]

That face looks life-like. Insane stuff.


Also, thanks to whoever posted that Erik Swinson link. I was watching the Orc he did in like 4 hours. Just absolutely mind-blowing how it looks at the end.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcF0zfmSwgE

I think I just need to bite the bullet and learn how to layer.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

GreenBuckanneer posted:

That's poopy mcpooperson.

tough poo poo. Also you shouldn't paint pure white, use an off white (which usually cover well) then layer up to a near white and then you can use pure white for highlights.

iospace
Jan 19, 2038


Yeast posted:

This is the way and the truth.

As someone who was painting white guard armor, yeah, it's fantastic.

Though I've shifted my main armor color to a white blue now and the fatigues to a darker gray. Leaning more into the coldness factor!

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

GreenBuckanneer posted:

What's the best way to paint white without having to do multiple layers?

Airbrush or start with a white rattlecan im afraid. Brush painting white is always going to be a bit of a pig.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Here's where I'm at so far, I don't have an airbrush and all the white rattlecans I've tried (which it's like 21F outside so probably not good to spray anyways) do that "spotty droplets" thing so I'm just doing brush work.

Looks like you don't wash this armor but "weather" it so I'll have to investigate what's a good way to easily weather tau armor that isn't tons of fiddling with the brush, I surmise a sponge probably.

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007
It was said earlier, but i think you will find it much better base coating in off white or better still pale grey. Your eye won’t be able to tell the difference, it will cover much better than pure white, and you can get depth by then highlighting in white.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Beffer posted:

It was said earlier, but i think you will find it much better base coating in off white or better still pale grey. Your eye won’t be able to tell the difference, it will cover much better than pure white, and you can get depth by then highlighting in white.

Yeah, that's what I'll do for the tau after this one

unfortunately the tau I assembled and primed a year ago were in black, so I'll have to figure out something

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

My go-to is Pro-Acryl titanium white mixed with a drop or two of Liquitex white ink. It helps it flow better and stops it from getting chalky, but you still need to apply several thin layers rather than one thick one.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Where's da zoggin Painboy when you need him?



3D renditions of the cardboard dread from the 2nd Edition boxed set printed up in 15mm. They're a bit on the small side for Orks, but since I'm playing RT-era they're Gretchin piloted anyway!

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Bohemian Nights posted:



.. but then I see mindblowing stuff like this (from @elminiaturista on IG) and I feel like I'm a particularly fat-fingered chimpanzee trying to make paint rollers work for miniature painting, I wouldn't even know where or how to begin to replicate something in this style:


It's really interesting to go back to what was considered "top tier" at different stages in time. New products, years of experience and, most of all, the extreme increase in availability of shared knowledge has made an enormous difference. Stuff that won Golden Daemons in the 90's and early 00's would often be considered nice but not outstanding today. And I've seen stuff that won Golden Daemons in the 80's and early 90's that I honestly think is below my "effort tabletop" level these days. It's crazy how the standard has increased.

If you think you're a mid painter at best, be comforted by the idea that your paint job would definitely blow away pretty much any club or shop back in the early 90's when I started Warhammer. If you use a wash at all your minis are 99% sure to look better than what we played with.

lilljonas fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Jan 2, 2024

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

GreenBuckanneer posted:

What's the best way to paint white without having to do multiple layers?

paint grey instead

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


I was impressed by how nice Grey Seer is as a base for white.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Warm white:
Khaki or Vallejo dark sea grey (it's a reddish grey) then ivory then white

Cold white:
Grey blue then wolf grey then ghost grey, maybe some white on top

None of these start with white. Don't actually basecoat white

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
i basecoat white and use washes with a heavy tint, gently caress the police

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN


This is still a work in progress but the white fur is Vallejo light sea green followed by pro-acryl blue-white then little touchups with liquitex gouache white. The sea green covers extremely well like all the other sea colors from Vallejo so I took a swing with it and I really like how it looks.

Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Jan 2, 2024

NinjaDebugger
Apr 22, 2008


I think we've waxed rhapsodic about it here before, but: N5 Neutral Gray, Payne's Gray, and Titan Buff are your best bases for whites IMO. (Technically n5 neutral gray + a tiny bit of payne's gray, for your cold grays, payne's gray is loving dark) All of these have ridiculously good coverage, are dirt cheap and high quality. Titan Green Pale will also work very well as a base for a cold white

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

When priming do you go for 100% coverage or "it looks mostly covered"?

Mainly asking because priming grey rustoleum on grey plastic and I can't loving tell without putting the miniature right in front of my face under bright light.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Lostconfused posted:

When priming do you go for 100% coverage or "it looks mostly covered"?

Mainly asking because priming grey rustoleum on grey plastic and I can't loving tell without putting the miniature right in front of my face under bright light.

I have the same problem and I just "spray and pray". All you need is something just enough for the paint to grab onto

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Lostconfused posted:

When priming do you go for 100% coverage or "it looks mostly covered"?

Mainly asking because priming grey rustoleum on grey plastic and I can't loving tell without putting the miniature right in front of my face under bright light.

I take a swig of white house paint and spit it on the models and whatever happens after that is up to fate

Nancy
Nov 23, 2005



Young Orc

Lostconfused posted:

When priming do you go for 100% coverage or "it looks mostly covered"?

Mainly asking because priming grey rustoleum on grey plastic and I can't loving tell without putting the miniature right in front of my face under bright light.

I've always gone with "mostly covered," the line between 100% and too much has always seemed really thin for me.

Re: painting white, I've been using Reaper paints & Earth Brown -> Skeleton Bone has been pretty good for painting white on top of other colors, though still takes a couple coats.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Lostconfused posted:

Mainly asking because priming grey rustoleum on grey plastic and I can't loving tell without putting the miniature right in front of my face under bright light.

Priming grey sounds like hell, I'd just prime white and hit it with a black wash then go from there.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Lostconfused posted:

When priming do you go for 100% coverage or "it looks mostly covered"?

Mainly asking because priming grey rustoleum on grey plastic and I can't loving tell without putting the miniature right in front of my face under bright light.

You don't really need complete 100% coverage, just enough to give your base layers enough tooth to adhere to.

Silhouette posted:

I take a swig of white house paint and spit it on the models and whatever happens after that is up to fate

Something Awful Masterclass.

Nazzadan
Jun 22, 2016



I go out into my garage that has a lovely light in it and hit it with the primer and make sure I give it a quick spray at an upward and downward angle to get the annoying nooks and crannies like just under the power pack and between the head/gorget. Then I get back inside and put it under my nice painting lights and see I missed a spot but it's in a place no one will notice anyways

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Southern Heel posted:

Where's da zoggin Painboy when you need him?



3D renditions of the cardboard dread from the 2nd Edition boxed set printed up in 15mm. They're a bit on the small side for Orks, but since I'm playing RT-era they're Gretchin piloted anyway!
Can you link the stl purchase location for the dread? That's cool!

Lostconfused posted:

When priming do you go for 100% coverage or "it looks mostly covered"?

Mainly asking because priming grey rustoleum on grey plastic and I can't loving tell without putting the miniature right in front of my face under bright light.
This is why I now prime black 100% and then do a "zenithal" spray of gray that ends up covering like 90% of the black, leaving the recesses in shadow.

Spanish Man love - phone posting so you don't get a quote too but I love that fur, might have to get some of those paints to add further variance to my fur painting options.

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry
Another birdy boy down





Experimented with some thinned down (with contrast medium) black templars contrast paint over drybrushing that absolutely did not work as intended, and had to go back and fix way more than I'd like. Still happy with him, especially the red detailing on the weapons that I started with on the last model- I think I'll keep that as a theme going forwards.

Taking pictures to share minis here and on IG is fun, but really getting the model up close is priceless for seeing where I've been sloppy, and all the places I've forgotten to add details. Two more to go, and then I can move onto the jetpack captain. Painting my first power sword should be fun!

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



I think it came out ok, i don't really have experience with freehand either

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
New year, new army I guess.
Trying some shark recipes.



Hedningen
May 4, 2013

Enough sideburns to last a lifetime.

Bohemian Nights posted:

Another birdy boy down




Is that bird freehanded? Because it looks pretty great if it is.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Harvey Mantaco posted:

New year, new army I guess.
Trying some shark recipes.





upcoming video? I'd like to see that.

Also, I tried your using q-tips for mixing oils recently and it's awesome, thanks. That being said I still use cheap-rear end brushes and at the end of each painting session my thought process always starts with "rather than cleaning up, what if I just threw out all my brushes?"

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Jonny Nox posted:

upcoming video? I'd like to see that.

Also, I tried your using q-tips for mixing oils recently and it's awesome, thanks. That being said I still use cheap-rear end brushes and at the end of each painting session my thought process always starts with "rather than cleaning up, what if I just threw out all my brushes?"

Painting minis with only Q-tips, sponges, my fingers and a funny stick I found on the sidewalk

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Jonny Nox posted:

upcoming video? I'd like to see that.

Also, I tried your using q-tips for mixing oils recently and it's awesome, thanks. That being said I still use cheap-rear end brushes and at the end of each painting session my thought process always starts with "rather than cleaning up, what if I just threw out all my brushes?"

I stopped cleaning my brushes for canvas oil painting, I have a container full of linseed oil and a little rack above it and I just hang the brushes with their tips in the oil. They never dry, and I separate my brushes by color so I don't need to clean them anyway.

I've been considering it with my miniatures oil brushes but I'm worried the linseed oil will get in and take forever to dry in a way that I don't care about with trad oil painting but would with minis. I'll let you know. Boldly going new places in the realm of "being as lazy as humanly possible".

Edit: (yes, editing. Just motivation low. Holiday fat.)

Also edit:

Eej posted:

Painting minis with only Q-tips, sponges, my fingers and a funny stick I found on the sidewalk

Lol I painted that green shark "skin" with a stick. Only used a brush for the base coating and some touch-ups.

Harvey Mantaco fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Jan 3, 2024

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Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
On the topic of painting with sticks, found this guy on TT that only paints with a whittled down toothpick. Stephen Windsor: https://www.tiktok.com/@toothpickarts?_t=8iiQLlsnbsb&_r=1









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