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Lots of people have a commute and/or odd hours that make L2 charging a necessity.
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Jan 2, 2024 08:32
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Saukkis posted:Even in that scenario you only need L2 charging if you arrive home late at the evening with depleted battery and you need to go for another long drive in the morning. If you only have your normal commute or a grocery run in the morning, then L1 charging overnight will be enough. L1 is enough for 40-75% of the population, L2 is enough for probably 75-95% of the population, and the rest drive enough or have individual situations that make EVs not really viable at all.
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Jan 2, 2024 15:29
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I drove 60 miles during the day, while getting about 40 miles worth of charge back overnight on L1 charger, regular 15A wall outlet. Then it charged back to 100% over the weekend. It wasn't a big deal. I mean not a big deal because the car has a 64KW battery and it's good for 260 miles when fully charged. Definitely wouldn't risk it with a Leaf that has 43 miles of total range left in it. Nitrox fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Jan 2, 2024 |
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Jan 2, 2024 17:56
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I used an L1 for the first 3 months and it was fine but it did discourage me from taking it on longer drives unless I knew I can spend the next couple days topping it off. It's definitely nice having the L2 available because there's significantly less planning/worry involved and I'd absolutely push for one, especially if you don't need major electrical work.
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Jan 2, 2024 18:07
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L2 allows my wife to only have to plug in once every week or so. While its not exactly onerous to plug in, it makes it less of a hassle for her if she doesn't have to park a particular way and wrangle 3 kids that are under 3 years old in addition to plugging in every single day. She drives about 40 miles a day
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Jan 2, 2024 18:35
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I think L1 can work for most people. But I’ve always liked having L2 charging available. Especially since you get a federal tax credit for installing the charger/outlet. Also many power companies have incentives for installing a charger or discounted chargers. On my model 3 I got 5-6 mph on L1 but 32mph on L2 was so much quicker. On my RAV4 prime I do 3.3mph on L1 and about 17 mph on L2. With only 42 miles of range the L2 is good for staying on electric all day depending on my trips. Some mornings I drive 35 miles round trip returning in the afternoon. I then charge for a couple hours and head out in the evening. With L1 I wouldn’t have nearly as much charge. With a PHEV you’re just burning some gas but I still like to drive all electric whenever possible.
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Jan 2, 2024 19:17
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I couldn't imagine not having level 2 but on the weekends it's not uncommon for us to go on longer day trips both Sat and Sun so over night charging on the level 2 allows us to not worry about it
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Jan 2, 2024 19:34
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Took a hit at 80mph from a big chunk of tire on the highway yesterday   Hard to see in the pic but there is a nice 2" or so crack/break on the bottom, plus all the scratches/dents paint damage.  You can just about see the outline of the piece of tire that hit, it was probably a good 2' long. The fog light is basically just sitting there right now, the tabs it connect to are broken off, plus even more paint damage. Also it doesn't line up to the quarter panel anymore so it's probably dented pretty good as well. From what I've been reading a painted new bumper from Tesla runs anywhere from $1200-150 installed. I'll let insurance take a look at it and go from there. Not how I wanted to start 2024.
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Jan 2, 2024 19:46
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mattfl posted:Took a hit at 80mph from a big chunk of tire on the highway yesterday Oy, that sucks. Sorry.
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Jan 2, 2024 19:58
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Where can I read about / what do I need to know with respect to best practices for charging my new EV? I want to know more about things like whether I should regularly charge it to 80% or some other percentage, etc.
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Jan 2, 2024 22:16
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Chimp_On_Stilts posted:Where can I read about / what do I need to know with respect to best practices for charging my new EV? There is nerdlord stuff that you can google for, but in reality the only resource you really need is your owner's manual. You should routinely charge to whatever your owner's manual recommends, and that's probably going to be 80% or 90%. You should avoid frequently dipping below whatever your owner's manual says on the low end, if you can avoid it (but don't worry about it if you can't), that's probably 10%.
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Jan 2, 2024 22:20
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Oh yeah does anyone know if I should limit my phev charging to 80%? There is nothing in the Volvo manuals about that and no way to set a charge level. I kind of think because it is a fairly low draw smaller battery it probably doesn’t matter as much.
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Jan 2, 2024 22:26
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Chimp_On_Stilts posted:Where can I read about / what do I need to know with respect to best practices for charging my new EV? Avoid keeping the battery at 100% charge for prolonged periods of time and avoid discharging the battery to zero. Check in the user manual if you can set charge limiters to 70-80%. Be aware that battery capacity will temporarily lower if ambient temperature is below freezing and trying to drive with heavy regen/one pedal straight out in very low temps will degrade the battery over time. Just off the top of my head. priznat posted:Oh yeah does anyone know if I should limit my phev charging to 80%? There is nothing in the Volvo manuals about that and no way to set a charge level. I kind of think because it is a fairly low draw smaller battery it probably doesn’t matter as much. Your car isn't running the battery at max charge but has a design buffer to avoid cooking the battery, you can ignore it. It's a bigger issue on BEV. SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Jan 2, 2024 |
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Jan 2, 2024 22:30
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SlowBloke posted:Your car isn't running the battery at max charge but has a design buffer to avoid cooking the battery, you can ignore it. It's a bigger issue on BEV. Ah yeah that’s what I was thinking, it just shows me usable range with a buffer. Good to not have to worry about it!
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Jan 2, 2024 22:38
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priznat posted:Oh yeah does anyone know if I should limit my phev charging to 80%? There is nothing in the Volvo manuals about that and no way to set a charge level. I kind of think because it is a fairly low draw smaller battery it probably doesn’t matter as much. Volvo manuals I've seen for BEVs recommend "less than 100%", if your PHEV manual doesn't specify a value then I'd assume 90% is fine and 80% is overkill. In your PHEV I think you're right that it won't make any noticeable difference whether you routinely charge to 80% or 90%.
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Jan 2, 2024 22:58
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Is there any real argument against getting a 22my bolt with the branded title due to the buyback battery fix? Do the 2022 have dcdf?
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Jan 2, 2024 22:58
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OBAMNA PHONE posted:Is there any real argument against getting a 22my bolt with the branded title due to the buyback battery fix? Do the 2022 have dcdf? Supposedly actual battery replacements ended at 2020s, and anything newer is just software stuff since they didn't think the 21+ ones were particularly impacted.
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Jan 2, 2024 23:10
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QuarkJets posted:Volvo manuals I've seen for BEVs recommend "less than 100%", if your PHEV manual doesn't specify a value then I'd assume 90% is fine and 80% is overkill. In your PHEV I think you're right that it won't make any noticeable difference whether you routinely charge to 80% or 90%. I just let it go for 100% (not counting the hidden buffer), since there is no way to tell it to stop on its own at a certain percentage I imagine that should be fine. It does seem to drop to a slower rate once it gets above 90% but it’s max 3.7kW/h from the AC to DC so it’s not super speedy anyway.
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Jan 3, 2024 00:11
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priznat posted:Oh yeah does anyone know if I should limit my phev charging to 80%? There is nothing in the Volvo manuals about that and no way to set a charge level. I kind of think because it is a fairly low draw smaller battery it probably doesn’t matter as much. Here’s what I found on the internet: quote:I recently purchased CA Up-front for a 2018 EV/HB. I deal in Lithium cells and with knowledge of their construction and my handling of them can say, ( PH ) has 3 modes of charging, If you are wondering why distance is reduced during winter, it is because you loose 20% of the batteries power because of frigid temps that slows down the reaction for charge/discharge cycle. https://www.kianiroforum.com/threads/phev-battery-life-span.9987/ Does it answer your question? No. No it doesn’t. Edit: from what I can find that seems reputable is that HEV, PHEV and BEV batteries are designed with different charge cycles in mind. An HEV battery might be designed for 100k cycles since it will charge and discharge multiple times a day and a BEV might only be capable of 1000 full to 0 charge cycles and PHEVs are somewhere in the 4 to 8k range. So, 10 to 20 years if you charge it full once a day? Edit 2: Some of the difference in cycles is due to that an HEV has about 75% of its capacity reserved as buffer to reduce the resistance in the battery, a PHEV reserves about 25% and a BEV reserves about 10%. So limiting the amount you charge and deplete the battery is already build into the system. Which I guess implies that if you further reduce how wide your cycles are you would effectively be increasing your battery life? Murgos fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Jan 3, 2024 |
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Jan 3, 2024 00:52
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Murgos posted:Which I guess implies that if you further reduce how wide your cycles are you would effectively be increasing your battery life? Cool that works, I find I am almost empty on battery most days when I plug it in at night!
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Jan 3, 2024 01:53
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gwrtheyrn posted:Supposedly actual battery replacements ended at 2020s, and anything newer is just software stuff since they didn't think the 21+ ones were particularly impacted. It's variable, my 2022 has a new battery. OBAMNA PHONE posted:Is there any real argument against getting a 22my bolt with the branded title due to the buyback battery fix? Do the 2022 have dcdf? Having a branded title is weird, I guess it was lemon lawed? I'd make sure you're getting a steep discount for it. 2022 was the first model year where DCFC was standard equipment, so you should be good there.
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Jan 3, 2024 02:43
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Murgos posted:Here’s what I found on the internet: Lol, what the gently caress.
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Jan 3, 2024 02:45
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Elviscat posted:Having a branded title is weird, I guess it was lemon lawed? I'd make sure you're getting a steep discount for it. They're all lemon lawed. If you look around the seattle area dealers, there are a ton of MY19+ bolts that are lemon lawed. If you (and the dealer) were eligible for the used tax credits, there were some going for as low as like 14k or something silly for a vehicle with like 5k miles
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Jan 3, 2024 03:41
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gwrtheyrn posted:They're all lemon lawed. If you look around the seattle area dealers, there are a ton of MY19+ bolts that are lemon lawed. If you (and the dealer) were eligible for the used tax credits, there were some going for as low as like 14k or something silly for a vehicle with like 5k miles i'm lookin at a 2022 with 5k mi and its about 16k after the rebate, which is insanely good and almost a straight one to one if i sell the gti private party
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Jan 3, 2024 06:36
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OBAMNA PHONE posted:i'm lookin at a 2022 with 5k mi and its about 16k after the rebate, which is insanely good and almost a straight one to one if i sell the gti private party And here I thought I was a genius for finding basically that same deal. gently caress yeah I’ll take 12k miles on a two year old car for 10,000 holy poo poo.
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Jan 3, 2024 06:58
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OBAMNA PHONE posted:i'm lookin at a 2022 with 5k mi and its about 16k after the rebate, which is insanely good and almost a straight one to one if i sell the gti private party That is kind of awesome and I'm jealous
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Jan 3, 2024 07:10
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Murgos posted:Here’s what I found on the internet: Thank you for this valuable information, I will keep an eye out for JOE BIDEN and CHINA trying to degrade my battery and steal my warranty.
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Jan 3, 2024 07:42
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OBAMNA PHONE posted:i'm lookin at a 2022 with 5k mi and its about 16k after the rebate, which is insanely good and almost a straight one to one if i sell the gti private party I would buy my car again for just under half price, yeah, it's a fantastic car at that poetics point. Unless it's white, white Bolts shouldn't exist.
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Jan 3, 2024 08:21
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Elviscat posted:poetics point. If you're looking around for a car, And you don't need to drive it too far, My old '17 LEAF Is a hot hunk of beef And the state of health's still above par!
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Jan 3, 2024 15:50
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The CyberTruck can't use Tesla's CCS2 adapter. https://insideevs.com/news/703018/tesla-cybertruck-ccs-charging/  What a lovely thing.
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Jan 3, 2024 19:06
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Those bolt prices are insane. I’m seeing all colors, all model years, good options, and they’re like $15k. No sales tax in WA and a $4k tax rebate on top of that? $11k for a car with a new battery and ACC?? It’s madness. The battery warranty starts from the date of replacement, not the date of initial sale.
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Jan 3, 2024 20:13
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cruft posted:The CyberTruck can't use Tesla's CCS2 adapter. good
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Jan 3, 2024 20:34
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cruft posted:The CyberTruck can't use Tesla's CCS2 adapter. I remain absolutely convinced, even more so now that Tesla is going to engage in NACS fuckery and it is a huge mistake for automakers to adopt it. That should be just a physical adaptor as NACS talks CCS1 though a plug basically physically identical to a Tesla plug and the Cybertruck should speak CCS1 just fine. Or to summarize, if that Cybertruck isn't broken (  ), it does not support NACS.
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Jan 3, 2024 20:37
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Three Olives posted:Or to summarize, if that Cybertruck isn't broken ( Well, it supports NACS, because that's just a physical connector. But the article makes it sound like they didn't implement CCS, which is a strange decision. I think you meant to say that it doesn't support J3400. I know that's being pedantic, but I gotta be me. Maybe it'll come out with a future software update: selling prototypes and updating them later with software would be on-brand for Tesla. cruft fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Jan 3, 2024 |
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Jan 3, 2024 20:44
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Never mind
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Jan 3, 2024 20:45
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Why would anyone buy a non-NACS car!!!!!!!
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Jan 3, 2024 20:48
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pun pundit posted:Never mind Your point was also valid: the adapter doesn't physically fit either. But I guess somebody took the trim off to make it go in, and it wouldn't negotiate a CCS session. That suggests they're using a new controller board for the cybertruck, instead of re-using the Model Y or Model 3 logic board. I feel like needing to manufacture a whole new board, with new firmware, isn't a really smart idea from a manufacturing standpoint. But then I don't head up an auto manufacturing company, I'm just some jerk on the Internet.
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Jan 3, 2024 20:51
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cruft posted:Well, it supports NACS, because that's just a physical connector. But the article makes it sound like they didn't implement CCS, which is a strange decision. I think you meant to say that it doesn't support J3400. I know that's being pedantic, but I gotta be me. J3400 is the connector, which is physically compatible with the Tesla connector, NACS is CCS over J3400. So unless something is broken, the Cybertruck does not support CCS which means you wouldn't be able to plug in a NACS charger and have it charge, even though the connector itself fits. This is not the least bit surprising to me, it has seemed very obvious to me that Tesla has no interest in making NACS work well, it was always a federal subsidy cash grab.
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Jan 3, 2024 20:58
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cruft posted:That suggests they're using a new controller board for the cybertruck, instead of re-using the Model Y or Model 3 logic board. I feel like needing to manufacture a whole new board, with new firmware, isn't a really smart idea from a manufacturing standpoint. Also just a jerk on the internet but I don’t think it’s totally silly if they did - the cyberturk runs twice the HV system voltage of the 3/Y so there could have been some major component changes that made it easier to start from scratch. But lmao at still not including the industry standard signaling protocol in your design requirements
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Jan 3, 2024 20:58
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Cenodoxus posted:Why would anyone buy a non-NACS car!!!!!!! because its a bolt
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Jan 3, 2024 21:00
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