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Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008


That's a very fine point.

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S.J.
May 19, 2008

Just who the hell do you think we are?

Harvey Mantaco posted:

On the topic of painting with sticks, found this guy on TT that only paints with a whittled down toothpick. Stephen Windsor: https://www.tiktok.com/@toothpickarts?_t=8iiQLlsnbsb&_r=1











I dunno what my problem is but my first thought was just "wow this guy's an rear end in a top hat" but that's just the insane, otherworldly jealousy bubbling up at how amazingly talented this dude is

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

what the gently caress lol

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

S.J. posted:

I dunno what my problem is but my first thought was just "wow this guy's an rear end in a top hat" but that's just the insane, otherworldly jealousy bubbling up at how amazingly talented this dude is

Seriously though, somebody let that very talented guy know there are a lot of really good paintbrushes out there now of various sizes and that he doesn't need to use a fuckin toothpick.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

AndyElusive posted:

Seriously though, somebody let that very talented guy know there are a lot of really good paintbrushes out there now of various sizes and that he doesn't need to use a fuckin toothpick.

I did. He struggles with brushes, he really does prefer toothpicks...

Slyphic
Oct 12, 2021

All we do is walk around believing birds!

Harvey Mantaco posted:

He struggles with brushes, he really does prefer toothpicks...
How does one struggle with brushes but thrive with toothpicks?

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
takes all kinds

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

This took me on a short rabbit hole in regards to painting crafts with toothpicks.

From what I understand most all toothpicks are made from birch wood and the capillary action is minimal so it lets you load a tip up with globs of opaque acrylic medium and then apply it to surfaces while maintaining a high degree of control. Especially when it comes to stippling.

So I can see why it helps when painting minis at the submolecular level.

bird.
Jun 20, 2010

First, take up a breathing practice for 15 years to get monk-like steady hands

Then, use a whiddled toothpick to apply 25-micron lines of paint at a time

Ezpz

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Harvey Mantaco posted:

New year, new army I guess.
Trying some shark recipes.





I love this scheme, but can't imagine painting a full army with it.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Radiation Cow posted:

I love this scheme, but can't imagine painting a full army with it.

what if a full army is nine sharks and a turtle

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Radiation Cow posted:

I love this scheme, but can't imagine painting a full army with it.

This is essentially the kind of style that GW does for Tyranids tho

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte
I recently bought 100 synthetic miniature brushes from Amazon for $9 Aus, and that is firmly in the territory of ‘throw out after using oils’

Which I thought was super wasteful, but then also thought I couldn’t buy enough white spirit to clean 100 brushes for that.

:psyduck:

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Harvey Mantaco posted:

On the topic of painting with sticks, found this guy on TT that only paints with a whittled down toothpick. Stephen Windsor:

Windsor? so much for nominative determinism I guess

yes I know it's Winsor

sixth and maimed
Mar 20, 2012

Fun Shoe
Quick question for the thread about basing and varnishing. I recently bought an airbrush to help with priming, basecoating and varnishing. Can I just varnish my finished bases together with the model, or are there some elements that are better added after the varnishing? I'm not looking to do anything crazy with the bases, just texture paints and grass.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




sixth and maimed posted:

Quick question for the thread about basing and varnishing. I recently bought an airbrush to help with priming, basecoating and varnishing. Can I just varnish my finished bases together with the model, or are there some elements that are better added after the varnishing? I'm not looking to do anything crazy with the bases, just texture paints and grass.

You will often want to do varnishing in layers. Paint your mini, but then if you want to do decals or pin washes, put on a layer of gloss varnish. When you're done, finish with a matt or satin varnish. And you don't have to do the whole thing gloss, just the areas you'll be doing things that benefit from a really smooth, sick surface.

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry

Hedningen posted:

Is that bird freehanded? Because it looks pretty great if it is.

I wish! It's just a nicely sculpted armor piece from the raven guard upgrade pack, I simply drybrushed a few layers over it

Southern Heel posted:

Where's da zoggin Painboy when you need him?



3D renditions of the cardboard dread from the 2nd Edition boxed set printed up in 15mm. They're a bit on the small side for Orks, but since I'm playing RT-era they're Gretchin piloted anyway!

These friggen rule

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Hedningen posted:

Is that bird freehanded? Because it looks pretty great if it is.

Is the corollary to this that if it was a pre printed decal it would be pretty bad?

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

sixth and maimed posted:

Quick question for the thread about basing and varnishing. I recently bought an airbrush to help with priming, basecoating and varnishing. Can I just varnish my finished bases together with the model, or are there some elements that are better added after the varnishing? I'm not looking to do anything crazy with the bases, just texture paints and grass.

Generally yes, you can varnish the whole thing together, and giving it all the same finish does help to integrate the model into its base. There are a couple of caveats, but they are super minor; You have to be slightly careful with static grass, make sure you arent blowing it off the base and that you arent getting large droplets of varnish drying in globs on the grass. Honestly hard to gently caress it up too badly, but worth mentioning. Some effects paints should be done after the varnish as their glossiness/mattness is part of their effect (Blood for the Blood God being the main one, but I also personally prefer Dirty Down Rust as a post-varnish final step). And I've only ever put down water effects post varnish, I dont know for sure that a varnish would mist up the surface but I dont want to take the chance it would.

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?
Hi guess who got a lightbox with his Christmas voucher money!




Oh also I upgraded this guy



He got his hip flask!

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

sixth and maimed posted:

Quick question for the thread about basing and varnishing. I recently bought an airbrush to help with priming, basecoating and varnishing. Can I just varnish my finished bases together with the model, or are there some elements that are better added after the varnishing? I'm not looking to do anything crazy with the bases, just texture paints and grass.

Honestly if I’m worried that varnishing will screw up whatever basing material I’m using like pigments or grass or whatever I’ll varnish the mini with the airbrush before I base anything and then afterwards just brush varnish the base rim.

Hedningen
May 4, 2013

Enough sideburns to last a lifetime.

Eej posted:

Is the corollary to this that if it was a pre printed decal it would be pretty bad?

Of course not - if it was a decal, it would have been very cleanly applied.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

sixth and maimed posted:

Quick question for the thread about basing and varnishing. I recently bought an airbrush to help with priming, basecoating and varnishing. Can I just varnish my finished bases together with the model, or are there some elements that are better added after the varnishing? I'm not looking to do anything crazy with the bases, just texture paints and grass.

On minis, I basically do everything except add grass, do one final varnish coat then add some grass tufts. I don't think the final matte varnish would actually mess up on the grass, but eh, I haven't felt the need to test it.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
I varnish my bases, including static grass, it's never been a problem. I do apply liquid effects, water, blood and slime/vomit after applying a matte coat so they remain glossy.

If you're worried about it you could just give it a try, use an extra base, apply your materials and then varnish and see how it looks.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Tried to do some air brushing yesterday, and it didn't go as well as I would've liked.

I was using regular vallejo game color paints and they're pretty thick, so I've thinned it 50/50.

Thinning with flow improver turned out to be a lot better than thinning with thinner, the paint didn't clog or dry out as much in the airbrush with majority flow improver mixture.

But I think the main problem was I was using an airbrush with a nozzle that was too small and base coating infantry, and using a rather white color to do it. Probably made things really difficult for myself here.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Lostconfused posted:

Tried to do some air brushing yesterday, and it didn't go as well as I would've liked.

I was using regular vallejo game color paints and they're pretty thick, so I've thinned it 50/50.

Thinning with flow improver turned out to be a lot better than thinning with thinner, the paint didn't clog or dry out as much in the airbrush with majority flow improver mixture.

But I think the main problem was I was using an airbrush with a nozzle that was too small and base coating infantry, and using a rather white color to do it. Probably made things really difficult for myself here.

Mess with your air pressure too. If your regulator is on the tank (like most setups) don’t even get too worried about “correct” ranges, the hose is going to mess with the volume of air anyways. Smaller nozzle and thicker paint can be doable with more airflow. Similarly I find I like glazing really thinned down inks with the pressure loooooowww.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Cthulu Carl posted:

On minis, I basically do everything except add grass, do one final varnish coat then add some grass tufts. I don't think the final matte varnish would actually mess up on the grass, but eh, I haven't felt the need to test it.

Can confirm Winsor and Newton matte through an airbrush will not gently caress up grass tufts.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008


This explains so much



Truly a tome of endless wisdom.

poop chute
Nov 16, 2023

by Athanatos
Finished my *checks notes* second full unit since I started in, lets see here, fall of 2022.





Three whole guys.

I'm mostly happy wtih them. I'm painting for tabletop, not display, which helps assuage some of my irritation about those goddamn fuel tanks and hoses being miserable to get all the nooks and crannies on, because they largely won't be visible at table range, but overall I'm pleased.

First picture is a bad angle, can't see the contrast yellow over white that I did for the eyes, but I love that effect. Next time my partners and I go to the nerd store, I'll pick up some AK texture paste to do like a volcanic ash thing for the base.

Next project is going to be the redemptor dread I've had sitting around for a year.

poop chute fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Jan 3, 2024

Ominous Jazz
Jun 15, 2011

Big D is chillin' over here
Wasteland style
They look like little Zaku from Gundam that's good

sixth and maimed
Mar 20, 2012

Fun Shoe
Thanks for the feedback and advice, everybody. Also, I'll do as Bucnasti says and do a test base first, see how that comes out.

poop chute posted:

Finished my *checks notes* second full unit since I started in, lets see here, fall of 2022.





Three whole guys.

I'm mostly happy wtih them. I'm painting for tabletop, not display, which helps assuage some of my irritation about those goddamn fuel tanks and hoses being miserable to get all the nooks and crannies on, because they largely won't be visible at table range, but overall I'm pleased.

First picture is a bad angle, can't see the contrast yellow over white that I did for the eyes, but I love that effect. Next time my partners and I go to the nerd store, I'll pick up some AK texture paste to do like a volcanic ash thing for the base.

Next project is going to be the redemptor dread I've had sitting around for a year.

Those look clean, well done!

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Finding out about the joys of painting large amounts of metallic gold.

paperface
Apr 20, 2005

My name's paperface, and I'm the Biggest Idiot Ever!

Did a test base of LI marines this afternoon. Quite pleased at how quickly these little guys paint up, I might actually finish a whole army project!

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Tau Darkstrider

sixth and maimed
Mar 20, 2012

Fun Shoe

Lostconfused posted:

Finding out about the joys of painting large amounts of metallic gold.

When I had to paint a whole bunch of Stormcast Eternals from the Dominion box, I bought a spray can of Retributor Armor and basecoated them with that. Saved me a ton of time (I'm a really slow painter, only just bought an airbrush)!

sixth and maimed
Mar 20, 2012

Fun Shoe

paperface posted:

Did a test base of LI marines this afternoon. Quite pleased at how quickly these little guys paint up, I might actually finish a whole army project!


28-32 mm mini's are already taxing my eyesight (with magnifying lens) and ability to steady my hands, I can't even imagine doing these!

Assessor of Maat
Nov 20, 2019

eh, it's not as bad as you may think, my hands shake terribly and I have no problem painting this stuff. there's a lot you can get away without at this scale



really if I wanted to be super quick about it I could've skipped half of what I did with these and stopped with only a white drybrush over primer + base colours + wash, and it would not look much different at arm's length. as it is most of my time was spent on the freehand for the HQ stand

Bored Online
May 25, 2009

We don't need Rome telling us what to do.
The 8mm models have been great for learning free hand also, because it is easier to achieve a good initial result. Legions Imperialis taught me how to paint hazard stripes and lightning bolts.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

I realise I never actually took any photos of my 10mm English Civil War armies when they're substantially complete, so here they are:



Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 11:20 on Jan 5, 2024

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poop chute
Nov 16, 2023

by Athanatos

Lostconfused posted:

Finding out about the joys of painting large amounts of metallic gold.

I swear by the Two Thin Coats gold, I’ve been struggling to paint the imperialis on salamanders off and on for a year and it’s the only thing that isn’t terrible.

edit: In the spirit of keeping some momentum going, here's WIP of the Redemptor I've been working on the last couple nights while I watch stuff with my girlfriend.




Primed, then airbrushed with Army Painter Greenskin because gently caress base coating by hand, the metallics with Sir Coates Silver from TTC, and then touched up where I made a mess of the green/didn't get a thorough enough coat with the airbrush (I was still learning to use it at the time). Still have the little detail work, hoses and whatnot, and his gun, and I forgot to paint his fingers, but he's coming right along. I'm thinking of doing Army Painter Rough Iron for his plasma gun with blue for the coils, just to make it stand out more against an army that's all green and black.

Pay no attention to my awful workspace, I'm working on a better one.

poop chute fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Jan 5, 2024

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