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Depending on how long your line set is you might also have to buy refrigerant. The model I was looking at buying for example had refrigerant for 25ft worth of line and you'd have to add more if you went longer than 25ft.
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Jan 3, 2024 21:58
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I thought you couldn't buy the refrigerant that mini splits use unless you were licensed? I saw some discussion of that while reading r/hvac threads.
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Jan 3, 2024 22:16
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I thought you couldn't buy the refrigerant that mini splits use unless you were licensed? I saw some discussion of that while reading r/hvac threads. It might also depend on where you live because some states are changing their refrigerant laws. I used to be able to buy r134 to recharge my cars for like ... $3 a can? Now they've switched to a new refrigerant in the state of washington and its like ... $70? My friends who installed their mini splits used the same manifold guages and vacuum pump they used on their cars. My one friend has a 2 head system with one being in his house to cool the house and supplement the furnace, and the other to condition his massive 4 car garage. Working in a 68º garage in the middle of winter is absolutely incredible.
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Jan 3, 2024 22:19
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So the plumbers came out to fix my sinks. All four got new pipes, toilets got reseated, water line to fridge hooked up and the kitchen sink plumbing completely redone because *none* of it was up to code. The disposal drain was incorrect and it was improperly wired. There was corrugated pipe and because the old homeowners put in a new *deep* sink and counter when they were selling... All of the plumbing was *below* the height of the external drain. Jesus. $1000 after parts and taxes but cheaper than me loving it up. But here's the thing... What's the average life expectancy of a plumber? They use the PVC glue and primer on three or four sinks... And that stuff was so strong. I couldn't take more than 20 minutes of just being near it before I had open every window and go wait outside for the entire rest of the time. My VOC monitor was off the charts. And they were just joking about "you get used to it". They had no PPE. I mean my chest and tongue feel weird after just that limited exposure lol. Doing that for years? Cancer rates have to be sky high?!
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Jan 3, 2024 22:35
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The Wonder Weapon posted:The grand total of the special tools you would need to purchase are a flaring kit for the lines, a vacuum pump, and a manifold gauge. That sound mostly correct? I know that's not literally every step, but I'm trying to identify what tools I'd need to make use of in order to properly install one myself. Because if it's just the flaring kit, pump, and manifold gauge, that's like $200 maybe, which is a lot cheaper than a $2000 installation, and very doable. Correct. If you need more refrigerant you can spend $22 on getting your very own EPA 609 certification (online: https://ww2.epatest.com/epa-609-mvac/) so you too can buy refrigerant in the quantities necessary if the refrigerant your unit uses and your state even require that. Depending on how you unit it supposed to be charged you may need a couple of thermometers along with your manifold gauge to calculate superheat/subcooling but more likely they will just say "put in X ounces additional for every Y feet of line set over Z feet." In which case you can use a parcel scale or even a kitchen scale if buying small cans to weigh in the rest of the charge. This stuff isn't rocket science. Diagnostics is harder than install. Install is being detail oriented, keeping clean, following the steps. The only thing you missed is a dryer. You're going to want a suction line dryer and you can buy one that is threaded so that you can use your flares/flaring tool to add it in without the need to braze. A Sporlan catch-all of the correct type and size for your system would do nicely: https://www.parker.com/content/dam/Parker-com/Literature/Sporlan/Sporlan-pdf-files/Sporlan-pdf-040/40-10-Catch-All-Filter-Driers.pdf Motronic fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Jan 3, 2024 |
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Jan 3, 2024 22:41
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BonoMan posted:But here's the thing... What's the average life expectancy of a plumber? They use the PVC glue and primer on three or four sinks... And that stuff was so strong. I couldn't take more than 20 minutes of just being near it before I had open every window and go wait outside for the entire rest of the time. My VOC monitor was off the charts. And they were just joking about "you get used to it". They had no PPE. I recently saw a medical file that said: Family History Mother: Hypertension Father: Cancer on palms of both hands My assumption is something work related but ??!!
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Jan 3, 2024 23:11
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BonoMan posted:But here's the thing... What's the average life expectancy of a plumber? They use the PVC glue and primer on three or four sinks... And that stuff was so strong. I couldn't take more than 20 minutes of just being near it before I had open every window and go wait outside for the entire rest of the time. My VOC monitor was off the charts. And they were just joking about "you get used to it". They had no PPE. I've never heard of PVC glue/primer being a major risk or talk of using PPE around it as a DIYer. It could actually be real nasty for all I know, but I do feel like you may have an unordinary sensitivity to it though as well. I've used it for various DIY projects and it definitely has a smell but nothing nearly that extreme and it doesn't linger in my experience like you get with paint and wood finishes where you're using a lot more of the product.
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Jan 4, 2024 08:36
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So, we found a dead rat in our basement. We go down there relatively frequently, at least a few times a week (we have a chest freezer down there), so it hadn't been there for long. The home inspector had mentioned that there were signs of previous rodent problems, but nothing that looked recent. My first instinct is to get an exterminator out here to take a look; would we be better off setting out some traps instead? Assuming we should follow my first instinct and hire an exterminator, what is the best way to find a good one (we're in Seattle, if that matters)?
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Jan 4, 2024 09:10
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First thing to do is go around the entire perimeter of your house and look for somewhere that they could be getting in. Any obvious holes, loose siding, etc. Seal it up with caulk, expanding foam, steel wool, etc. If you have a crawl space or deck check under there too.
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Jan 4, 2024 10:15
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All exterminators will do is set some traps out and look for potential entry points so you might as well just save the money and do it yourself.
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Jan 4, 2024 13:28
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Elem7 posted:I've never heard of PVC glue/primer being a major risk or talk of using PPE around it as a DIYer. It could actually be real nasty for all I know, but I do feel like you may have an unordinary sensitivity to it though as well. I've used it for various DIY projects and it definitely has a smell but nothing nearly that extreme and it doesn't linger in my experience like you get with paint and wood finishes where you're using a lot more of the product. Possibly but I mean it was so strong it physically hurt my chest and my tongue was tingling. My VOC meter on my air quality device pegged near instant to 100 and stayed there for a while so it was definitely Not Good. Seems like you'd def want a mask of some sort if you used that often.
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Jan 4, 2024 14:08
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I get migraines from scents!!
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Jan 4, 2024 15:21
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Elem7 posted:I've never heard of PVC glue/primer being a major risk or talk of using PPE around it as a DIYer. It could actually be real nasty for all I know, but I do feel like you may have an unordinary sensitivity to it though as well. I've used it for various DIY projects and it definitely has a smell but nothing nearly that extreme and it doesn't linger in my experience like you get with paint and wood finishes where you're using a lot more of the product. I believe it’s not controversial that inhaling solvents for any amount of time is detrimental to your health. I’m sure I can find some studies to support the idea that you should protect yourself from stuff like that if needed. However, nearly everyone I know seems to have had their understanding of risk… updated so that that they no longer fear inhaling a pathogen (that requires BSL-3 precautions to work with) everywhere they go, so I don’t really think their perception of necessary precautions is accurate.
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Jan 4, 2024 15:26
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Any long term exposure to chemicals is probably not good for you but since it’s not continuous, it’s probably hard to correlate it to a shorter lifespan.
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Jan 4, 2024 15:28
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BonoMan posted:But here's the thing... What's the average life expectancy of a plumber? They use the PVC glue and primer on three or four sinks... And that stuff was so strong. I couldn't take more than 20 minutes of just being near it before I had open every window and go wait outside for the entire rest of the time. My VOC monitor was off the charts. And they were just joking about "you get used to it". They had no PPE.
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Jan 4, 2024 17:06
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Invalid Validation posted:All exterminators will do is set some traps out and look for potential entry points so you might as well just save the money and do it yourself. Sorta depends on the exterminator. Years back I had a rodent problem that resulted in a lot of flex duct damage. I had a company come in and clean everything up, replace ducts, disinfect and deodorize, as well as seal all entry points. A much better job than I could have done, and they provided an extended guarantee (any more rodents and they’d come back for free within some amount of time, a year? Multiple years? I can’t recall). Supposedly the cleanup step is important as more rodents are attracted to your house if you don’t.
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Jan 4, 2024 17:16
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:PVC cement isn't great for you, but I think you must be abnormally sensitive to it. MEK is the main bad chemical and it's...not great, has a very strong odor, probably/possibly carcinogenic with long-term exposure, but not super harmful except at fairly high doses. You can buy it by the jug in the paint department. Cyclohexanone is non-carcinogenic but does have a strong smell and is also moderately toxic at higher doses. Tetrahydrofuran is possibly carcinogenic long term and about as toxic as acetone, which is to say, slightly with high exposure. Again, all not great especially with high lifetime exposure, but plumbers aren't usually sniffing PVC glue all day-sticking all that stuff together is the fast part. It's funny b/c my daughter - who takes more after me genetically - was complaining about the smell when they got home and even this morning. My son - who takes more after his mom genetically - couldn't smell it and neither could she except barely. As far as plumbers go, I just figured the amount of exposure over a career would be enough to do anything but I am also not a scientist (and really my "life span" comment was more of a lead in to complaining about the smell than a real inquiry)
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Jan 4, 2024 18:39
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BonoMan posted:So the plumbers came out to fix my sinks. All four got new pipes, toilets got reseated, water line to fridge hooked up and the kitchen sink plumbing completely redone because *none* of it was up to code. The disposal drain was incorrect and it was improperly wired. There was corrugated pipe and because the old homeowners put in a new *deep* sink and counter when they were selling... All of the plumbing was *below* the height of the external drain. Jesus. $1000? You got a real bargain assuming it's all now done right. Hang on to that business card. Different people have sensitivities to different VOCs and such. It's one reason we try to lower them in various products where possible. Anyway, you are probably just hyper sensitive to that particular one. If you are going to use it in the future consider a VOC cartridge on a half-mask respirator, and definitely run the bathroom fan until it all sets etc. There is one specific formulation of common household spray cleaner that lights my lungs on fire like I'm inhaling chlorine gas, such to the point I actually stripped out every cleaning product under the sink and made sure it wasn't actually possible for an ammonia based one to have mixed with it when it first happened. My wife? Unphased entirely. She thought I had lost my mind when she came in to me emptying the cabinet of cleaning stuff and sorting it. Anecdotes etc but we just don't buy that one anymore if we remember. Trying to google which specific VOCs are likely in PVC solvent/glue actually came up with this thing from SCAQMD (my region's air management.) Just amused me, nothing specifically relevant other than some PPM numbers. https://weldon.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/VOC-White-paper.pdf
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Jan 4, 2024 19:41
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:PVC cement isn't great for you, but I think you must be abnormally sensitive to it. MEK is the main bad chemical and it's...not great, has a very strong odor, probably/possibly carcinogenic with long-term exposure, but not super harmful except at fairly high doses. You can buy it by the jug in the paint department. Cyclohexanone is non-carcinogenic but does have a strong smell and is also moderately toxic at higher doses. Tetrahydrofuran is possibly carcinogenic long term and about as toxic as acetone, which is to say, slightly with high exposure. Again, all not great especially with high lifetime exposure, but plumbers aren't usually sniffing PVC glue all day-sticking all that stuff together is the fast part. Where are you getting this info? Last I checked MEK (I assume we're talking about methyl ethyl ketone?) wasn't known to be carcinogenic. It does have a very strong odor and can be quite irritating. It seems that chronic exposure can cause neurotoxic effects, although as always that depends on the dose.
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Jan 4, 2024 21:00
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HappyHippo posted:Where are you getting this info? Last I checked MEK (I assume we're talking about methyl ethyl ketone?) wasn't known to be carcinogenic. It does have a very strong odor and can be quite irritating. It seems that chronic exposure can cause neurotoxic effects, although as always that depends on the dose.
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Jan 4, 2024 21:42
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There’s also the precautionary principle. If there’s even a little chance that this thing could gently caress up my life, and it’s possible to mitigate for that possibility, it’s probably worth doing imo. Call me crazy but it’s not like the companies producing these compounds are studying all the ways they interact with your body, including any medications you may be taking, weird genes and damage you have, or other chemicals you may ingest throughout your time working with the substance in question. In the case of these solvents, the relevant PPE isn’t expensive or hard to get, and the possible issues are definitely worth avoiding.
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Jan 4, 2024 22:09
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Steve French posted:Sorta depends on the exterminator. Years back I had a rodent problem that resulted in a lot of flex duct damage. I had a company come in and clean everything up, replace ducts, disinfect and deodorize, as well as seal all entry points. A much better job than I could have done, and they provided an extended guarantee (any more rodents and they’d come back for free within some amount of time, a year? Multiple years? I can’t recall). Supposedly the cleanup step is important as more rodents are attracted to your house if you don’t. I think this is the difference between something you'd probably call exterminators, that mostly just use chemicals to kill and prevent, and a more wildlife control type place that will trap and release (probably not for rats) whatever is in your walls or attic as well as some minor construction to seal up paths of entry with materials that animals can't chew through (metal).
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Jan 4, 2024 22:42
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tuyop posted:There’s also the precautionary principle. If there’s even a little chance that this thing could gently caress up my life, and it’s possible to mitigate for that possibility, it’s probably worth doing imo. I think the only thing you’ve ever touched that might have an MSDS sheet is keyboard cleaner lol
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Jan 4, 2024 22:58
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right arm posted:I think the only thing you’ve ever touched that might have an MSDS sheet is keyboard cleaner lol 
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Jan 4, 2024 22:59
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Prop 65 warning: posting causes cancer in the state of California.
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Jan 4, 2024 23:00
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tuyop posted:There’s also the precautionary principle. If there’s even a little chance that this thing could gently caress up my life, and it’s possible to mitigate for that possibility, it’s probably worth doing imo. I'm not saying don't wear PPE around solvents, I guess I just get annoyed by the assumption that everything causes cancer. I also once worked with it (MEK) in a lab for a few months once so I was also genuinely interested to know if the science had changed since I last had a look. Given that it exists in small amounts in the body anyway, and that our metabolisms are already designed to handle ketones, I would actually be surprised to find out it was cancerous. HappyHippo fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jan 4, 2024 |
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Jan 4, 2024 23:37
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FISHMANPET posted:I think this is the difference between something you'd probably call exterminators, that mostly just use chemicals to kill and prevent, and a more wildlife control type place that will trap and release (probably not for rats) whatever is in your walls or attic as well as some minor construction to seal up paths of entry with materials that animals can't chew through (metal). Yeah perhaps. But in the context of “I found a dead rat, what should I do?” I figured it might be useful info. This is who I used: https://alleycatusa.com/
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Jan 5, 2024 02:29
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HappyHippo posted:I'm not saying don't wear PPE around solvents, I guess I just get annoyed by the assumption that everything causes cancer. I also once worked with it (MEK) in a lab for a few months once so I was also genuinely interested to know if the science had changed since I last had a look.
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Jan 5, 2024 04:14
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The basement was good for a nice contact high last week when the contractors moved my hvac and water heater intake/exhausts as part of our patio remodel. Took an hour after turning the furnace back on to clear the fumes. I'm glad I've been a homeowner for long enough to know how poo poo is supposed to work because they really hosed up the main furnace exhaust line. They managed to put such a large V dip in the pipe that the accumulated condensation was enough to block the exhaust entirely, causing the furnace to fire up and stop after the exhaust check. No possible way for for the water to drain back to the condensate trap. I drilled some holes to let the water drain into buckets then called the contractor and told him exactly how his crew hosed up and how he was going to fix it. To his credit, he had it fixed properly the very next afternoon. This has been the first big miss during the entire project, everything else has been minor cosmetic stuff that they fixed exactly how we wanted them to. Even good contractors have their off days, gotta watch e'm all.
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Jan 5, 2024 18:04
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https://elcolighting.com/printpdf/products/4-round-led-reflector-inserts-5-cct-switch (it's a pdf) Looking at can lights for my wife's art room. These are what they've been installing but I am not sure how to know if it will be fine for an art space. We would want accurate color rendering without spending a zillion dollars a light. We aren't doing video post production or anything. Says cri 90 and tunable color but I'm not good at this part. Thoughts? Better ideas?
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Jan 5, 2024 18:27
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H110Hawk posted:https://elcolighting.com/printpdf/products/4-round-led-reflector-inserts-5-cct-switch (it's a pdf) I personally would want warmer than 2700K light (2500K is what I like to exist in) but that probably depends alot on what kind of art stuff will actually be happening in there. Being able to have accurate color rendering and full color daylight when needed but also be able to switch to a warmer light would be my ideal. for Having enough light and few shadows (i.e. multiple light sources from multiple directions) is just as important as color temp/CRI imo. I've been very happy with these: https://www.usa.lighting.philips.com/consumer/p/smart-led-bulb-88w--eq.60w--a19-e26/046677562700 and at 2500K they feel the most like an incandescent of any LED I have used. They make a can but it looks like they only go down to 2700K" https://www.usa.lighting.philips.com/consumer/p/smart-wi-fi-led-5-6-inch-retrofit-downlight-83w/046677555627/specifications. They also make bulbs for traditional cans: https://www.usa.lighting.philips.com/consumer/p/smart-led-reflector-72w--eq.65w--br30-e26/046677562724 https://www.usa.lighting.philips.com/consumer/p/smart-led-spot-49w--eq.50w--par16-gu10/046677562533 that do go down to 2200K. All have a CRI of 90. Personally I would go with normal cans + smart bulbs but only because I hate the idea of having to replace an entire fixture if one dies., but if there are space limitations above the room then LED's may be the only option.
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Jan 5, 2024 19:09
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Personally I would go with smart bulbs You just tell me to go gently caress myself? 
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Jan 5, 2024 19:29
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I personally would want warmer than 2700K light (2500K is what I like to exist in) but that probably depends alot on what kind of art stuff will actually be happening in there. Being able to have accurate color rendering and full color daylight when needed but also be able to switch to a warmer light would be my ideal. for Having enough light and few shadows (i.e. multiple light sources from multiple directions) is just as important as color temp/CRI imo. Yeah I think 2700K feels high for day to day use. I wonder how easy they are to switch even? Regardless she does have like a ring light for photographing/videos (which is like $20 off amazon, CRI of "sure"), a large window for natural light, and can get lamps and stuff. This is largely just bulk light for working in the evenings and such. They're probably fine. All of their bulbs bottom out at 2700K though, which is odd. Note they are spec'ing the bulb there, it has a 120V clip that goes into the fixture itself, seen on page 2. It's a bit easier to see on this now that I'm not posting from the park. I believe it's going in a housing like the one below but I don't have the cutsheet in front of me. Bulb: https://elcolighting.com/products/4-round-led-reflector-inserts-5-cct-switch Housing: https://elcolighting.com/products/4-new-construction-ic-airtight-housing Either way, the holes aren't cut and the wires aren't run yet so everything is on the table. I will not be installing WiFi(tm) controlled lights though. No way, no how. z-wave/zigbee perhaps, but I don't have anything else yet.
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Jan 5, 2024 19:40
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H110Hawk posted:Yeah I think 2700K feels high for day to day use. I wonder how easy they are to switch even? Regardless she does have like a ring light for photographing/videos (which is like $20 off amazon, CRI of "sure"), a large window for natural light, and can get lamps and stuff. This is largely just bulk light for working in the evenings and such. They're probably fine. All of their bulbs bottom out at 2700K though, which is odd. I disagree based on what the intended use of the room is. I did Google an article about this which confirmed my suspicions. https://www.northluxlighting.com/blogs/articles/what-color-temperature-is-best-for-an-art-studio I love my warm light in the house for being cozy and comfortable, and cool or neutral and bright as hell for any work space. The goal should be to see the workspace clearly, and the article above has detail on color rendering that I feel is important. Of course I'm assuming art as in painting, I'm sure that doesn't matter as much for ceramics or fiber arts.
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Jan 5, 2024 19:59
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So I want to add a window to my house. From talking to other people, seems the best thing to do is source the window first and then get the contractor to size the opening to that and install it. Clearly I'll want to talk to several contractors for a project like this (I've got some recommendations already). But I find the whole thing intimidating. What should I be asking these contractors? What parts of the process should I know ahead of time to discuss it intelligently with them? What kinds of things could go wrong? What's the time frame on this sort of thing (I'm in southern Ontario, if that helps)? I'll probably wait until at least the spring before starting this, how early should I try to get the contractor booked? Any info at all is appreciated.
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Jan 5, 2024 20:00
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Indirect water heaters-thoughts? Estimated costs? I’ve got an oil fired boiler with a tankless coil and three heating zones for baseboard heat. During the summer, things work fine. Except if I try to run two things at once (shower and the washer means I’m getting a lukewarm shower, for example). If I run two baths back to back, the second bath runs a little cooler. I ran this by my service tech last summer when he was out and he said everything looks fine and just adjusted my hot water temp a bit higher. It didn’t really help that much. We just had our first cold snap (20 degrees F) in Connecticut and had the baseboards running during the day in the house while we were home. My wife went to take a shower and even with the hot water cranked all the way, it was lukewarm from the start. I googled it and an episode of this old house said an indirect water heater could be a good solution. I’m going to call for some quotes and stuff, but any ideas on if this is a feasible solution? When I first moved in here 1.5 years ago, I freaked out about a 35 year old single stage boiler (you all have since talked me off that ledge-thanks) and got quotes for a new high efficiency one and the hvac people never suggested an indirect water heater as a potential solution, though I never mentioned it as a problem. They were more focused on selling me a new high efficiency oil boiler for $13k. I feel like an indirect water heater could solve my problems based on what I’ve read so far, but happy for any other opinions.
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Jan 6, 2024 02:34
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HappyHippo posted:So I want to add a window to my house. From talking to other people, seems the best thing to do is source the window first and then get the contractor to size the opening to that and install it. Clearly I'll want to talk to several contractors for a project like this (I've got some recommendations already). But I find the whole thing intimidating. What should I be asking these contractors? What parts of the process should I know ahead of time to discuss it intelligently with them? What kinds of things could go wrong? What's the time frame on this sort of thing (I'm in southern Ontario, if that helps)? I'll probably wait until at least the spring before starting this, how early should I try to get the contractor booked? I mean this nicely, but if you are asking these questions, do not buy a window before talking to the contractor you'll be using to install it. There may be reasons that aren't apparent to you that could constrain the window size/shape/placement. I'm not sure why you want to source the window yourself, unless there's external factors I'm not aware of here. I think you're deeply overthinking this. Call contractors, this is a relatively small job so you may get few responses and it may take some work. Tell them "I'd like to put a window roughly X by X in this location" and see what they say. Call now to start the process, because depending on what type and construction of window you want, there may be a significant lead time.
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Jan 6, 2024 03:24
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TacoHavoc posted:I mean this nicely, but if you are asking these questions, do not buy a window before talking to the contractor you'll be using to install it. There may be reasons that aren't apparent to you that could constrain the window size/shape/placement. I'm not sure why you want to source the window yourself, unless there's external factors I'm not aware of here. I had no intention of buying it before talking to the contractor, sorry if that wasn't clear. We had some friends who did a larger reno and they basically suggested that it's cheaper if you get the window yourself rather than go through the contractor. Ok I guess I'll just ask around. I guess adding a hole in the side of your house seems like a bigger deal than it is.
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Jan 6, 2024 05:05
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HappyHippo posted:So I want to add a window to my house. From talking to other people, seems the best thing to do is source the window first and then get the contractor to size the opening to that and install it. Clearly I'll want to talk to several contractors for a project like this (I've got some recommendations already). But I find the whole thing intimidating. What should I be asking these contractors? What parts of the process should I know ahead of time to discuss it intelligently with them? What kinds of things could go wrong? What's the time frame on this sort of thing (I'm in southern Ontario, if that helps)? I'll probably wait until at least the spring before starting this, how early should I try to get the contractor booked? I recently had a sliding patio door put in where only a window was previously. I went to a local window and door showroom and talked with a sales guy, picked out the door I wanted and had one of their installers come by to give me a quote for install. After I signed the contract they drew up plans to send to the city to pull the permits, then cut the hole in the side of the house and installed the new door. It only took the guy two days to do the install after the door came in ~8 weeks after I signed the contract.
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Jan 6, 2024 05:19
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ran a gas line out to my shed for my generator. works perfectly under load and with the furnace going so that’s nice. won’t have to bug the utility about my meter  next weekend I’ll be running a 20amp circuit out there for a battery tender and my milwaukee charger and a light. also wiring a 50amp inlet to feed the house next time the power goes out (probably in 10yr now that I purchased this thing lol) also gonna run a 15amp circuit to the front of my property for a wifi extender to run a level bolt at the gate at the bridge over the creek in my front yard I expect this weekend project to run until march lol
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Jan 7, 2024 04:09
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