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Grizzled Patriarch
Mar 27, 2014

These dentures won't stop me from tearing out jugulars in Thunderdome.



I've never gotten a fake, but I have gotten 2 Raphael brushes just thrown in a giant rear end box with zero protection other than the plastic cap, which will 100% fall off in transit. Dunno if it was from their actual storefront or not though, so hopefully they pack their own stuff better. Rosemary and Co. are very careful with their packaging, definitely been happy with the stuff I've ordered from them.

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Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]
Using glazing to layer 3 different colors to form a nice transition when I watch it on youtube: "Oh, that looks so easy. He created the gradient effect in 5 minutes"

Using glazing to layer 3 different colors to form a nice transition when I do it:

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Cardboard Fox posted:

Using glazing to layer 3 different colors to form a nice transition when I watch it on youtube: "Oh, that looks so easy. He created the gradient effect in 5 minutes"

Using glazing to layer 3 different colors to form a nice transition when I do it:


Be lazy like me and do wet blending. Thin the paint and mix the colours on the model!

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Cardboard Fox posted:

Using glazing to layer 3 different colors to form a nice transition when I watch it on youtube: "Oh, that looks so easy. He created the gradient effect in 5 minutes"

Using glazing to layer 3 different colors to form a nice transition when I do it:


The metal looks really nice there fyi

For your glazing, something on there looks like it wasn't thinned enough I think, but not the glazes, the base coat. The glazes look like they were thinned with a bit too much water, the pigment pools. A thinning medium will help with that, but you also should apply far less glaze. It works well to apply very thin coats, building up pigmentation in layers. It is slower, but at the end it looks great.

What did you do for the metal? It looks so tarnished and worn.

Cardboard Fox
Feb 8, 2009

[Tentatively Excited]

Eej posted:

Be lazy like me and do wet blending. Thin the paint and mix the colours on the model!

Yeah, that's another technique I have on my list to try. I'm hearing it's even possible to wet blend contrast paint.

Virtual Russian posted:

The metal looks really nice there fyi

For your glazing, something on there looks like it wasn't thinned enough I think, but not the glazes, the base coat. The glazes look like they were thinned with a bit too much water, the pigment pools. A thinning medium will help with that, but you also should apply far less glaze. It works well to apply very thin coats, building up pigmentation in layers. It is slower, but at the end it looks great.

What did you do for the metal? It looks so tarnished and worn.

Thanks. It's the one technique I think I was able to execute on.

It's just dry brushing Retributor Armor over an Adadon Black base coat. Took 2 minutes and honestly feels like cheating. I wish I could get half of this effect with any of the other techniques I've tried.

Here's something similar I did with a silver metalic:


Washed with Nuln Oil after drybrushing. Next time I won't use the wash all over the shield. You can't really see it in that picture, but there's a bit of pooling on the flat surface.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Cardboard Fox posted:

Yeah, that's another technique I have on my list to try. I'm hearing it's even possible to wet blend contrast paint.

Thanks. It's the one technique I think I was able to execute on.

It's just dry brushing Retributor Armor over an Adadon Black base coat. Took 2 minutes and honestly feels like cheating. I wish I could get half of this effect with any of the other techniques I've tried.

Here's something similar I did with a silver metalic:


Washed with Nuln Oil after drybrushing. Next time I won't use the wash all over the shield. You can't really see it in that picture, but there's a bit of pooling on the flat surface.

It's way easy to blend with contrast paint because it takes longer for it to dry than regular acrylic paint

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

It may be a little counter-intuitive, but paint dries faster the more thinned down it is. So if you want to wet blend, your best bet is almost unthinned paint.

I know there's the stigma of using unthinned paint, but that's because there's a temptation to load too much on the brush, leading to texture build-up and glooping and all the other problems associated with unthinned paint. So as long as you have enough to lay down your base layer but no more, wet blending is super easy and a great, fast way to build up a relatively smooth transition that you can then refine with glazes.

Here's an example of what I mean:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1n6m4ruJipE

Dreamerdeceiver52
Nov 11, 2007

My last mini painted in 2023 - pretty happy with how he turned out:

NinjaDebugger
Apr 22, 2008


First finish of 2024. Started this back before my surgery at the end of 2023.



My post about it, including link to mini.

poop chute
Nov 16, 2023

by Athanatos
Girlfriends bought an Infinity starter yesterday, and none of us have worked with metal minis since 2017 at the latest. What do we do to prep these things? Soap and water to remove release agent? Do they need a light pass with a sanding stick to create roughage for primer? What's the deal?

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Regarding the advice on airbrushes, I can’t seem to find any of the H&S 2023 ultras, but the 2024 seems to be about £80 is that right? I did look at the Iwata eclipse HPCS but they start at about 150, which seems like a massive amount of money for essentially is just something to put down bass coats and rudimentary weathering on vehicles?

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

poop chute posted:

Girlfriends bought an Infinity starter yesterday, and none of us have worked with metal minis since 2017 at the latest. What do we do to prep these things? Soap and water to remove release agent? Do they need a light pass with a sanding stick to create roughage for primer? What's the deal?

Soap and water probably isnt necessary, but cant hurt so do that. Other than that, clean the mould lines and dont try to use plastic glue. No need to rough up the surface, primer should stick to it well enough (which is the point of the primer).

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

poop chute posted:

Girlfriends bought an Infinity starter yesterday, and none of us have worked with metal minis since 2017 at the latest. What do we do to prep these things? Soap and water to remove release agent? Do they need a light pass with a sanding stick to create roughage for primer? What's the deal?

none of these things

mold lines need a bit more effort to scrape/sand if there are any. (corvus belli has pretty great casting so this isn't usually a big deal.) you may want green stuff for mold lines and part gaps on older models, or if you're not fitting parts together tightly. you may want to drill and pin joints on some of the larger or ganglier models, like TAGs.

Issaries
Sep 15, 2008

"At the end of the day
We are all human beings
My father once told me that
The world has no borders"

Just paint.

Infinity miniatures are awesome.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Awesome but way too spindly to be metal.

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry
My girlfriend finished the red gobbo she got for Christmas and I'm super proud of her. This is her third model ever, and the most complicated by far- I think she did great!



Probably took around 15 hours, so she definitely took her time. Came home from work one day and found her watching a Duncan Rhodes tutorial on youtube, with a warhammer lore video open in another tab- I almost shed a tear~

Match for scale, so the normal people at her work can understand just how tiny it is.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Bohemian Nights posted:

My girlfriend finished the red gobbo she got for Christmas and I'm super proud of her. This is her third model ever, and the most complicated by far- I think she did great!



Probably took around 15 hours, so she definitely took her time. Came home from work one day and found her watching a Duncan Rhodes tutorial on youtube, with a warhammer lore video open in another tab- I almost shed a tear~

Match for scale, so the normal people at her work can understand just how tiny it is.

I'm trying to not be miffed about how your girlfriend's third mini looks comperable to my 320th+ give or take model.

Anyways, she did a really good job and she should be proud

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

grassy gnoll posted:

Rosemarys are a little easier to come by now that there's slightly less covid, and I think they compare favorably to the Raphaels I've got.

I loved Raphaels but then I realised there's about a 50% chance of you getting a dud brush each time.

This is not a good statistic when the brushes are £15 each. Rosemary cost £5-7 and they could fail at the same rate and be acceptable.

The belly on the Rosemarys is much slimmer so it's more prone to overloading compared to a Raphael but the Raphaels are pretty much an outlier for having fat as gently caress brushes. The tips are pretty much indistinguishable.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Definitely having a problem with small Rosemary&Co brushes overloading. The Da Vinci maestro is nice but too big to get into the nooks and cranies. However Winsor & Newton series 7 is the most satisfying brush I've used but it's a size 2 and not at all usable for tight areas with capes or weapons being held close to the chest.

DAD LOST MY IPOD
Feb 3, 2012

Fats Dominar is on the case






Along the shore the cloud waves break
The twin suns sink behind the lake
The shadows lengthen
In Carcosa





Strange is the night where black stars rise
And strange moons circle through the skies
But stranger still is
Lost Carcosa





Songs that the Hyades shall sing
Where flap the tatters of the King
Must die unheard in
Dim Carcosa





Song of my soul, my voice is dead
Die thou, unsung, as tears unshed
Shall dry and die in
Lost Carcosa





The scalloped tatters of the King in Yellow must hide Yhtill forever

I don’t know how apparent it is in these photos but everyone who’s not a member of the Yhtill royal family (Camilla, Cassilda, eventually others maybe), or the King himself, is a marionette. So they all have marionette strings made of narrow gauge wire. Still working on the King.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


This is still a WIP, I need to do a tiny amount of tidying then add the weathering, but it's almost a shame to dirty it up.



The freehand chain was a proof of concept, going to expand on it on the next one.



owns, but I think the photography is washing out the white "skin", it looks unshaded but I'm pretty sure it isn't

Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Jan 7, 2024

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?


This model is going to literally kill me

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

ancient games-workshop wisdom

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

Our Lovely Wang
Crossposting from the Specialist Games thread. Did some Titans.





Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
WIP of my first model of the year.



Wrapped up the Hearthkin Salvagers and Kroot Kill Teams at the end of the year, but haven't gotten around to taking pictures of them yet.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
Oh woooow that's nice

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001
I really like that shield. All the subtle colours in the metal really make it pop.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008


Spent the entire weekend on this and I'm not sure I even accomplished anything.



Really tempted to slap some heads and bases on and call it done.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Lostconfused posted:


Really tempted to slap some heads and bases on and call it done.

If you're getting frustrated with them, then there's no reason not to call them done. You can take all the learning you've done and apply it to the next project, as well as get the satisfaction of knowing you've got a completed unit.

Prawned
Oct 25, 2010

Lostconfused posted:

Spent the entire weekend on this and I'm not sure I even accomplished anything.



Really tempted to slap some heads and bases on and call it done.

You're a bugger cause this was p much the exact colour scheme I was going to try for the marines that came in the leviathan box, but they are looking pretty good.

Paragon8
Feb 19, 2007

Southern Heel posted:

Regarding the advice on airbrushes, I can’t seem to find any of the H&S 2023 ultras, but the 2024 seems to be about £80 is that right? I did look at the Iwata eclipse HPCS but they start at about 150, which seems like a massive amount of money for essentially is just something to put down bass coats and rudimentary weathering on vehicles?

truly get one of the chinese airbrushes

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fengda-Airbrush-All-Purpose-Precision-Dual-Action/dp/B01984HJ48/

for base coats and varnishing, I've found it really great.

sixth and maimed
Mar 20, 2012

Fun Shoe
Started the new year by trying out airbrushing for the first time. Setup needs getting used to and tweaking, found myself one short a few times. Other than that, it worked pretty sweet. I practiced on paper first, using Squidmar's airbrushing template. When that went well and I started feeling comfortable (probably too comfortable), I grabbed a hobgrot I had lying around and basecoated it (Hobgrot hide). And then I did the other 21! :) Doing those by hand would have been very tedious and time consuming!

Pretty happy with the tools and result. I know I still have a long road ahead and many things to learn but I was amazed at how quickly I was able to get basic stuff done.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Lostconfused posted:

Spent the entire weekend on this and I'm not sure I even accomplished anything.

You're too close to the work. They look great, and I can see the difference between the before and after. You'll be a lot happier with them when the heads and bases are done.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!

Lostconfused posted:


Really tempted to slap some heads and bases on and call it done.

Don't slap some heads on and call it done, leave the heads off and call it done :evilbuddy:

Or put some completely unrelated heads on them, like goblins.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Lostconfused posted:

Definitely having a problem with small Rosemary&Co brushes overloading. The Da Vinci maestro is nice but too big to get into the nooks and cranies. However Winsor & Newton series 7 is the most satisfying brush I've used but it's a size 2 and not at all usable for tight areas with capes or weapons being held close to the chest.

Use the Size 2 of the Series 33. The 8404s are like 1 size bigger than the 33s. I think they also do a shorter version if you need to get into nooks and crannies but that's probably going to overload a lot. The Rosemarys are a bit softer I've found so it takes a little bit to get used to them coming from the stiffer 8404s and S7s.

I used to use S7s but after switching to 8404s I realised them being short and slim made them incredibly prone to overload.

NinjaDebugger
Apr 22, 2008


Lostconfused posted:

Spent the entire weekend on this and I'm not sure I even accomplished anything.



Really tempted to slap some heads and bases on and call it done.

Nothing has helped me improve and keep moving more than the combination of pottery class experiment and attitude of the knife. Cut it off here and say "now it's done, because I ended it here", and move on to your next interesting thing. Obsessing over trying to get one perfect thing done on this go will literally hurt you in the long run.

poop chute
Nov 16, 2023

by Athanatos

sixth and maimed posted:

Started the new year by trying out airbrushing for the first time. Setup needs getting used to and tweaking, found myself one short a few times. Other than that, it worked pretty sweet. I practiced on paper first, using Squidmar's airbrushing template. When that went well and I started feeling comfortable (probably too comfortable), I grabbed a hobgrot I had lying around and basecoated it (Hobgrot hide). And then I did the other 21! :) Doing those by hand would have been very tedious and time consuming!

Pretty happy with the tools and result. I know I still have a long road ahead and many things to learn but I was amazed at how quickly I was able to get basic stuff done.



Big fan of that painting box, just don't accidentally set the filter on fire like my girlfriend did.

No I don't know how.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

NinjaDebugger posted:

Nothing has helped me improve and keep moving more than the combination of pottery class experiment and attitude of the knife. Cut it off here and say "now it's done, because I ended it here", and move on to your next interesting thing. Obsessing over trying to get one perfect thing done on this go will literally hurt you in the long run.

This is some of the best mini painting advice there is.

rantmo
Jul 30, 2003

A smile better suits a hero



Speaking of that airbrush hood, how often ought one change the filter on that and, also, where does one acquire more filters?

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Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Depending on the airbrush booth some of them use standard air filters that you can pick up in a home hardware store.

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