What did you do to your car today? My car isn't fast, it's only 10s in the 1/4 mile

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > What did you do to your car today? My car isn't fast, it's only 10s in the 1/4 mile

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WTFBEES: Apr 21, 2005; butt

This is only car adjacent, but I lubricated the slides on my old toolbox today. The recommended service interval on that is once every 20 years, right? :ohdear:

# ? Jan 1, 2024 22:49

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# ? May 27, 2024 17:18

His Divine Shadow: Aug 7, 2000; I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Been working on brackets for the fog lights while I got the bumper off, mostly I am just figuring it out as I go. Everything is tacked together at the moment but I feel I might need to adjust the angle a bit yet.

Don't look too closely on the yellow film I applied over the foglight glass... that stuff is difficult to deal with even when using a hairdryer to warm it.

Also noticed two small pools of coolant on either side of the radiator, great...

# ? Jan 2, 2024 05:52

Darchangel: Feb 12, 2009; Tell him about the blower!

Lazily quoting my personal thread:

Darchangel posted:

A few new things!

The high beams on my aftermarket headlights on the Crown Vic suck, I discovered coming home from my aunt and uncle's house in rural TX Christmas night. I could o[em tem up and install a high-low projector (which I wish the headlight manufacturer had done, instead a low-beam projector and a useless separate "flood" high beam. It throws like 6'. Pitiful.
So, I bought these:

Decent hardware and mounts. Hardware appears to be stainless steel.

Not installed, but just propping the bar on the core support looks promising:
Before:

After:

And this is one of the smaller ones aimed sort of middle:

The bar will go behind the grill, and the little guys *might* fit in th lower bumper openings:

I'd have to build custom brackets, though - they're too tall with the original mounts, at first blush. I'll have to take a closer look later.

But first, the Outback needed some attention. The headlights were starting to get cloudy (goon former owner polished them right before I bought it, but they were never coated. Actually, I may have applied the Philips wipe-on coating once - I forget.)

Not useless, but getting there:

I bought this kit on the strength of reviews and videos, and completeness:

It includes treated de-oxidizing wipes, 2000 and 300 grit sandpaper, a sander for the sandpaper, the ceramic coating, and 2 sets of gloves to use during the chemical processes.

Driver's side, begin:

First step, 4 de-ox wipes:

(It actually gets a bit cloudy after you wash off the residue for the next step.)
Contrast:

Wipes definitely doing something:

We have reached the "WTF have I done?" stage, i.e.: after sanding for 2-3 minutes with 2000 grit:

While I was at it, I decided to clean up the cracks in the rear lights. I sealed these with super glue, but I got a little rambunctious with it, and it's glooped on there.

Passenger side is better:

I smoothed those with 480 grit (just something I had handy,) then used the 2000 on them, including the entire rear panel.

Back on the headlights, 3000 grit:

And then...
Driver's side only coated:

Dang. That worked pretty well, I'd say.

Taillights, same:

The cracks are hardly invisible, but they're better. As long as they don't let moisture in, that's the main thing.

While I was messing with the headlights, I decided a bit more oomph might be a good thing.

They attempt to make the light emit at the same location as the halogen.

The bulb is keyed so that the two LEDs are at 3 and 9 o'clock in the housing.
There's a little tiny fan in the end, too. Sealight seems to be well regarded for budget LED lights.

Color temp difference is noticeable, natch, but there doesn't seem to be any more glare than the halogen.

Halogen still in left side, LED on right:

Both LEDS:

Interestingly, today, before I wrote this up, my wife let me know that the passenger headlight had gone out.
Sure enough:

I was about to pack them up an return them, when I noted a harness adapter in the box under the foam. No mention was made of this in the instructions...

So look again closely at the terminal for the bulb:

Note the metal shielding down by the blade? Turns out they are not intended to ground through the housing like halogen H1 bulbs? The adapter grabs that "shield" and has a negative lead. No pictures because I was problem-solving, and now it's raining outside. They both worked perfectly after I installed that. Weird, but OK. Not sure why they initially worked grounding the "normal" way (and the driver's side still did...)
There were also cotton gloves in the box to help you not touch the bulbs, which I though was nice, even though I didn't use them.

# ? Jan 3, 2024 00:43

Powershift: Nov 23, 2009

Those lights came out really nice. They almost look new.

# ? Jan 3, 2024 00:50

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Those cleaned up really well. Still really weird seeing a 2nd gen Outback with the tow hook cover and fog light grills intact - my bumper was too deformed to get a cover on (the fogs were aimed about 2' in front of the car thanks to the bumper sag). Still have the grills I bought somewhere, the tabs wound up being broken off of the fog housings.

The headlights on my Outback went from "are these drat things even on?" to "who the gently caress turned on the daystar?!" after a good polish + aim (the saggy butt on mine wasn't helping things either). Even the JDM HID factory lights I had didn't do as good, though I suspect that was partly because the lenses were pitted/cracking on the inside (I guess the HIDs threw a lot more UV than the covers were designed for? still have them in the garage wired up to a PC PSU, I'll fire them up when I need a lot of diffused light).

Those taillights will always be an issue, they flat out don't age well - every time I went to the junkyard, I tried to find a set that wasn't full of water/moisture. I found one outer that was in somewhat better shape, but still not fantastic. Did find a center section that didn't completely fill up every time it rained. Yours look like they're in a lot better shape than mine were, but it probably wouldn't help to add a drain hole anyway.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jan 3, 2024

# ? Jan 3, 2024 01:13

Darchangel: Feb 12, 2009; Tell him about the blower!

Powershift posted:

Those lights came out really nice. They almost look new.

I was pretty impressed myself. It wasn't a lot of work, and the Cerakote kit promises a long lifespan. We'll see.
I was just going to get an Avalon King (or whomever) ceramic coating kit and do the headlights (and trim) along with the paint, but I thought I'd see what that complete kit did. Videos and reviews were promising, and amazingly not bullshit.

Regarding the taillights: they already have wee drain holes at the bottom.

Regarding saggy butt: new springs and struts shortly after we got it. It doesn't sag, but I am supremely unhappy with how much the rear end bounces (off of the bump stops) on, say the George Bush Tollway. Or really, any road in Irving. (For those not in DFW - Irving is known for lots of, um, unevenness in it's roads. Lots of whoop-de-doos on the highway.)
I'm probably going to get a Rallitek spring kit. They can be had in stock height, but I think I'll bump it up to the 2" kit - my wife want's it taller to make it easier to get in/out (she has a bad back.) $1299, but cheaper than the Kia Soul she wants (which will probably happen eventually anyway...)

# ? Jan 4, 2024 00:42

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Check the bushings in the rear - there's one in the middle that rots out and drops the rear a bit, which also results in it whacking the bumpstops. Usually causes a bit of odd camber too though.

Mine definitely had saggy butt as a result of that. Bushing had completely left the chat, yet somehow didn't cause any rattling or clunking.

# ? Jan 4, 2024 01:23

NitroSpazzz: Dec 9, 2006; You don't need style when you've got strength!

Truck hasn't been running right for a couple weeks now but it's only used for trash runs and taking the dog to the park so didn't worry about it too much. Have this week off so I pulled it into the garage to let it warm up before diving in. It took a half hour to pull it ahead ~10ft, do a 5 point turn and pull into the garage. Was thinking maybe it was the duraspark unit or something on the carb but decided to check the plugs after I saw checking for a stuck float wasn't going to be a quick/easy job. Plugs were a little crusty.

Working on truck while short isn't fun

I'm surprised it ran as well as it had been. New plugs and it fired up on first crank and idled better than it has in years.

# ? Jan 4, 2024 11:46

chrisgt: Sep 6, 2011

NitroSpazzz posted:

Truck hasn't been running right for a couple weeks now but it's only used for trash runs and taking the dog to the park so didn't worry about it too much. Have this week off so I pulled it into the garage to let it warm up before diving in. It took a half hour to pull it ahead ~10ft, do a 5 point turn and pull into the garage. Was thinking maybe it was the duraspark unit or something on the carb but decided to check the plugs after I saw checking for a stuck float wasn't going to be a quick/easy job. Plugs were a little crusty.

Working on truck while short isn't fun

I'm surprised it ran as well as it had been. New plugs and it fired up on first crank and idled better than it has in years.

I have to use a ladder to work on my K30 and i'm 6ft tall.

I kind of want one of these, i just don't want to store it.

# ? Jan 4, 2024 11:54

NitroSpazzz: Dec 9, 2006; You don't need style when you've got strength!

chrisgt posted:

I have to use a ladder to work on my K30 and i'm 6ft tall.

I kind of want one of these, i just don't want to store it.

Hmm my also short brother works on Land Rovers, maybe I'll see if I can get Dad to go in on one of those with me for his birthday.

# ? Jan 4, 2024 12:00

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

NitroSpazzz posted:

Truck hasn't been running right for a couple weeks now but it's only used for trash runs and taking the dog to the park so didn't worry about it too much. Have this week off so I pulled it into the garage to let it warm up before diving in. It took a half hour to pull it ahead ~10ft, do a 5 point turn and pull into the garage. Was thinking maybe it was the duraspark unit or something on the carb but decided to check the plugs after I saw checking for a stuck float wasn't going to be a quick/easy job. Plugs were a little crusty.

Working on truck while short isn't fun

I'm surprised it ran as well as it had been. New plugs and it fired up on first crank and idled better than it has in years.

Bah, you can just climb into the engine bay and sit on the fender - that's what I did at 5'7 when I had my 80. :v:

And the DuraSpark II system either works or doesn't in my experience - it goes from running fine to "why did the engine die?". Mine would crap when it got hot, but opening the hood and letting it cool off for half an hour was usually enough to get it to restart and run for a little longer. It was an OEM module, though likely not original. Mine had spots to bolt down two modules, so I left that one there and mounted an aftermarket one next to it (think it was a Borg Warner unit from Checker, now known as O'Reillys). At least that way worst case, I could switch to the other if one took a poo poo and limp it home.

Those plugs were disgusting - looks like it's running pig rich, so you probably do have something going on with the carb, or it's not getting warmed up enough for the choke to pull off.

Checking for a stuck float is easy on the 2 barrel Autolite - it turns into a little gasoline fountain. :v:

Dunno about the 4 though.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:30 on Jan 4, 2024

# ? Jan 4, 2024 12:26

chrisgt: Sep 6, 2011

randomidiot posted:

Bah, you can just climb into the engine bay and sit on the fender - that's what I did at 5'7 when I had my 80. And the DuraSpark II system either works or doesn't in my experience - it goes from running fine to "why did the engine die?". Mine would crap when it got hot, but opening the hood and letting it cool off for half an hour was usually enough to get it to restart and run for a little longer. It was an OEM module, though likely not original. Mine had spots to bolt down two modules, so I left that one there and mounted an aftermarket one next to it (think it was a Borg Warner unit from Checker, now known as O'Reillys). At least that way worst case, I could switch to the other if one took a poo poo and limp it home.

Those plugs were disgusting - looks like it's running pig rich, so you probably do have something going on with the carb, or it's not getting warmed up enough for the choke to pull off.

Checking for a stuck float is easy on the 2 barrel Autolite - it turns into a little gasoline fountain. Dunno about the 4 though.

yea at least ford had the forethought to put the duraspark box external to the distributor. Chevy, in their infinite wisdom, put the loving hei module under the rotor and it always dies at night in the rain. Also chevy put the distrtibutor in a terrible spot to reach....

# ? Jan 4, 2024 13:22

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Clearly, GM Optispark was better than HEI, especially on higher mile vehicles, or stuff that didn't get driven regularly.

...............

I can't keep a straight face after saying that. :laffo:

# ? Jan 4, 2024 14:44

Imperador do Brasil: Nov 18, 2005; Rotor-rific

Just got a delivery for the 911

It�s got the LN Engineering extended oil pan so it takes 12 quarts

It doesn�t need an oil change til spring, but better to be prepared�

# ? Jan 4, 2024 23:29

Darchangel: Feb 12, 2009; Tell him about the blower!

randomidiot posted:

Check the bushings in the rear - there's one in the middle that rots out and drops the rear a bit, which also results in it whacking the bumpstops. Usually causes a bit of odd camber too though.

Mine definitely had saggy butt as a result of that. Bushing had completely left the chat, yet somehow didn't cause any rattling or clunking.

Already replaced the upper control arm bushings. They were toast. It helped a little, but not a lot.
I feel like maybe the wagon springs are different OEM from the sedan, but the aftermarket just slaps one part number on for both. I imagine the wagon's rear end weighs more with all the glass back there.
Not really sure, though.

# ? Jan 5, 2024 01:02

jink: May 8, 2002; Drop it like it's Hot.; Taco Defender

Imperador do Brasil posted:

Just got a delivery for the 911

It�s got the LN Engineering extended oil pan so it takes 12 quarts

It doesn�t need an oil change til spring, but better to be prepared�

I hate you and your awesome car so much.

# ? Jan 5, 2024 01:14

His Divine Shadow: Aug 7, 2000; I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

I finished the brackets (still need painting and the wiring needs to be done, probably should get shorter bolts).

Yeah one chrome strip is gone, I got replacement strips.

# ? Jan 5, 2024 05:35

randomidiot: May 12, 2006; by Fluffdaddy
(and can't post for 11 years!)

Darchangel posted:

Already replaced the upper control arm bushings. They were toast. It helped a little, but not a lot.
I feel like maybe the wagon springs are different OEM from the sedan, but the aftermarket just slaps one part number on for both. I imagine the wagon's rear end weighs more with all the glass back there.
Not really sure, though.

It looks like the springs are sill available from Subaru for roughly $75/ea (MSRP, you can find them lower once you have the part number, may be a little higher at some dealers). But I just checked, you're correct - wagon and sedan get different rear springs from the factory. You'd think the wagon weighs a lot more, but it looks like on the highest optioned models, there's just under a 100 pound difference. :confused:

Still enough of a difference that Subaru has different springs for the wagon.

Oddly, there's 3 different part numbers listed, all shown as fitting 01-04 LL Bean wagons in the rear - 20380AE21A, 20380AE23A, 20380AE39A. The last is also listed as fitting the base model, the other 2 are only listed for the higher trims (one is specified as also fitting "cold weather" models, I'm gonna guess they're the same springs with some kind of coating? every 03-04 Outback had heated seats/windshield/mirrors, even the base model, so "cold weather" didn't really add anything except a block heater AFAIK). You can probably narrow it down by using the VIN on parts.subaru.com.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Jan 5, 2024

# ? Jan 5, 2024 12:30

NitroSpazzz: Dec 9, 2006; You don't need style when you've got strength!

Imperador do Brasil posted:

Just got a delivery for the 911

It�s got the LN Engineering extended oil pan so it takes 12 quarts

It doesn�t need an oil change til spring, but better to be prepared�

Did the same on the Cayman, extended sump and skid plate. Driving around our garbage roads and occasional gravel section the skid plate has paid for itself. Running the same oil, expensive but that's p-cars.

# ? Jan 5, 2024 15:13

Imperador do Brasil: Nov 18, 2005; Rotor-rific

NitroSpazzz posted:

Did the same on the Cayman, extended sump and skid plate. Driving around our garbage roads and occasional gravel section the skid plate has paid for itself. Running the same oil, expensive but that's p-cars.

The other option was the Mobil1 Euro 5w-40, but for the price difference on one oil change per year, the Driven is cheap insurance.

# ? Jan 5, 2024 15:54

Darchangel: Feb 12, 2009; Tell him about the blower!

randomidiot posted:

It looks like the springs are sill available from Subaru for roughly $75/ea (MSRP, you can find them lower once you have the part number, may be a little higher at some dealers). But I just checked, you're correct - wagon and sedan get different rear springs from the factory. You'd think the wagon weighs a lot more, but it looks like on the highest optioned models, there's just under a 100 pound difference. Still enough of a difference that Subaru has different springs for the wagon.

Oddly, there's 3 different part numbers listed, all shown as fitting 01-04 LL Bean wagons in the rear - 20380AE21A, 20380AE23A, 20380AE39A. The last is also listed as fitting the base model, the other 2 are only listed for the higher trims (one is specified as also fitting "cold weather" models, I'm gonna guess they're the same springs with some kind of coating? every 03-04 Outback had heated seats/windshield/mirrors, even the base model, so "cold weather" didn't really add anything except a block heater AFAIK). You can probably narrow it down by using the VIN on parts.subaru.com.

Rallitek claims their springs are 355 lb/in in the rear, 30% stiffer than stock (they also have 460 lb/in) for $231. In which page they mention the "dreaded Subaru sagginess", so I guess it's just a thing. Interestingly, those are 0.4" lift springs. They offer 0" lift springs for the front, but not for the rear.

I'd probably be happy with the 0 lift, but I know it being a bit taller would appeal to my wife. And hey, then I could stick some slightly larger mud & snow tires on it, right?

oooooooooooo, BFG K02s white letter out...

Darchangel fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jan 5, 2024

# ? Jan 5, 2024 18:14

IOwnCalculus: Apr 2, 2003

chrisgt posted:

I have to use a ladder to work on my K30 and i'm 6ft tall.

I kind of want one of these, i just don't want to store it.

I like how they showcase this on a lowered C10, absolutely not a truck that has the problem this is meant to solve.

# ? Jan 5, 2024 20:08

chrisgt: Sep 6, 2011

IOwnCalculus posted:

I like how they showcase this on a lowered C10, absolutely not a truck that has the problem this is meant to solve.

Yeah if you actually tried to use it on this truck you would hit your head on the hood latch. If they want to send me one I'll take a nice picture with my lifted k30

# ? Jan 5, 2024 21:56

Mcqueen: Feb 26, 2007; 'HEY MOM, I'M DONE WITH MY SEGMENT!'; Soiled Meat

The best part about buying old poo poo boxes is the fun things you find long buried under the carpets. Personally, I am loving the thought of some little rear end in a top hat who (poorly) installed a subwoofer into a 1980's Saab 900.

I also replaced the motor mount, changed the oil, fixed the sunroof and used that cerakote headlight restoration product on my 9-3 Aero AWD.

Cool of GM to put the mounts on top of the motor...we love 30 minute jobs!

# ? Jan 6, 2024 03:50

Darchangel: Feb 12, 2009; Tell him about the blower!

I�ve installed stereo equipment in literally every car I�ve ever owned. I�m that little rear end in a top hat.
So much that I did it professionally for a few years, as it happens.
Thankfully, my own mild OCD made sure most of my installs were reasonably decent, once I figured out how stuff was supposed to work.

# ? Jan 6, 2024 04:19

bird with big dick: Oct 21, 2015

LMAO at Jensen, that stuff was such trash.

Best system I had I shoehorned into an AW11. Alpine head unit and that badass half DIN alpine EQ, 2 precision power amps, 10� sub behind the passenger seat that nearly made the seat unusable. Can�t remember what I replaced the factory speakers with. Maybe Focal.

# ? Jan 6, 2024 15:30

Imperador do Brasil: Nov 18, 2005; Rotor-rific

Had a little tear in the stock vinyl shift boot on the FiST

So I replaced it with a Redline Goods leather boot

# ? Jan 6, 2024 19:47

opengl: Sep 16, 2010

Looks good, I put one of their boots in my C5 when I swapped to a C6 Z06 shifter, I was happy with it.

# ? Jan 6, 2024 20:32

welcome 2 Clown Town: Aug 1, 2006; GALAXY'S #2 SCULL*!

*scrunt skull

I was doing the spark plugs on my 2015 Toyota Prius v and as I was tightening down the ignition coil bolts I was wondering why the second one wasn't getting to 10 foot pounds when it suddenly told me by shearing off just above the threads. Fortunately I was able to attach some pliers to it and get the remaining part of the stud out of the valve cover, but now I have to wait several days until the right bolt shows up in the mail.

# ? Jan 6, 2024 23:38

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

Where do you live that you can't get standard metric hardware like an M6 bolt from a hardware store nearby?

# ? Jan 6, 2024 23:48

welcome 2 Clown Town: Aug 1, 2006; GALAXY'S #2 SCULL*!

*scrunt skull

I was able to get a four pack of Toyota OEM bolts for a dollar each with free shipping, I just have to wait which doesn't bother me. It's our second car and I already hadn't driven it in a few days anyway.

I'm assuming at some point in the past it was way over torqued or something because it never even got close to clicking the torque wrench and just shore itself off.

# ? Jan 7, 2024 01:34

Suburban Dad: Jan 10, 2007; Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself

Motronic posted:

Where do you live that you can't get standard metric hardware like an M6 bolt from a hardware store nearby?

Superior Japanese fasteners.

Yeah you could have probably got them from your local ace hardware or equivalent but that also works. "Numbers matching... coil bolts."

# ? Jan 7, 2024 01:44

Powershift: Nov 23, 2009

His Divine Shadow posted:

I finished the brackets (still need painting and the wiring needs to be done, probably should get shorter bolts).

Yeah one chrome strip is gone, I got replacement strips.

I configured some mounts for my own, too.

I've got a second set of mounts to go lower on the bumperettes but they have to at least be loosened for that.

I'm on the fence about buying 4 motorcycle headlights off aliexpress. 2 clear for the top inside, 2 amber for the lower outside.

# ? Jan 7, 2024 03:13

McTinkerson: Jul 5, 2007; Dreaming of Shock Diamonds

It's ignition system maintenance day.
Shameless cross post from the anxiety inducing project thread.

As usual, Pelican Parts has a pretty good DIY article.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...Replacement.htm

Off comes the drivers side coil pack cover. Which on the turbo engines also requires removal of the air box lid due to clearance issues.

Drivers side was super simple and straight forward. Nothing was stuck, snapped or stripped.
All plugs could be threaded back in by hand.

Passenger side also requires removal of something just like the drivers side. Specifically the torque brace. Both bushings looked good too.

Zero issues with coil and plugs on this side as well.

That being said, six of the eight coil packs had cracks the length of the body. One was so bad that the body was two pieces.

There were zero misfire codes present. Not even pending. The M48.51 is a stout engine, I'll give Porsche that.
It does idle and rev significantly smoother now though.

# ? Jan 7, 2024 19:37

Mcqueen: Feb 26, 2007; 'HEY MOM, I'M DONE WITH MY SEGMENT!'; Soiled Meat

Mcqueen posted:

The best part about buying old poo poo boxes is the fun things you find long buried under the carpets. Personally, I am loving the thought of some little rear end in a top hat who (poorly) installed a subwoofer into a 1980's Saab 900.

What's cooler than one amp buried in a old shitbox? Two amps buried in a poo poo box!

You know whats less cool than multi-amps? Cancer on all 4 corners from some rear end in a top hat who put jackstands where they shouldn't be.

This is totally my fault for not being more careful, and the truth is I don't want to take the time to learn how to or spend time fixing this and the rusted through wheel arches. I'll probably end up taking the cool poo poo off this car (interior, louvers, SPG wheels) and sending this to the scrap yard. Incredibly frustrating day...

# ? Jan 8, 2024 01:54

heffray: Sep 18, 2010

I'm several posts behind on this with ongoing projects, but a partial update:

Sound deadening! I thought this car sat at 89dB at highway cruise, and then I learned that my phone sound meter app calls anything loud "89dB". I would rather add 30lb to the car than have it be that loud as I drive it several hours to track events, or on other road trips, or around town. So, Resonix stuff. CLD on broad fiberglass strips that seemed ringy, with more coverage on the few steel panels. Fibermat over the rear wheelwells, in the headliner, and on the torque tube/exhaust tunnel.

Trunk got some CLD, with more coverage and Fibermat over the wheels.

Behind-seat bulkhead is reportedly a major noise source and is steel, so it got more coverage (CLD, and a Fibermat layer under the carpet).

Headliner is also a big noise source, so CLD and Fibermat here again. The foam layers in the OEM headliner are flaking, but I can just add a bunch of 3m weatherstripping glue and get it mostly secured (new headliners are $850).

Doors weren't too bad: there's a lot of depth to work with, and noise issues seem more attached to sealing than noise through the door. Still, it's a good place for CLD, tying the crash bar to the door panel with butyl rope, and a Fibermat layer on each side of the crash bar. I also owe a caliper measurement to Crutchfield about their Metra door speaker adapter plates being too large to actually fit in a door, but that's waiting for me to pull the door panel again.

The torque tube (and exhaust) tunnel is a source of noise and heat, so this got more CLD and Fibermat (replacing the stock recycled fabric and cardboard layer):

Also did Redline Goods boots on the shifter and e-brake, since the boots had holes in them and my MGW Flat Stick shifter is shorter than stock. They're nice, but not showing up in my USPS queue while requiring a signature meant I had to go to the post office.

Brakes! EBC SR11 pads in stock sizes, Raybestos $50 front rotors with cool looking slots (that are going to fill up with pad material due to negative rotor wear), ACDelco rear rotors, Powerstop SS lines with a sweet red coating. Currently on Ate Typ 200 fluid while I chase out bubbles, with 2qt of SRF waiting to swap in. I'll probably look at a fixed 6 piston caliper after this set of pads, but want to see how they work as-is. This also fits under 17" stock front wheels, and not buying more wheels is nice.

I grabbed a C7 Z51 brake (control arm) cooling scoop kit for 2x :10bux:

and will try to adapt those on, to catch the air the stock ducting is throwing in the direction of the wheels.

Front spring "lowering" bolts: C5 front ride adjusters are a bolt with a big rubber bushing, and the bushing is 21 years old. The replacement part includes a new front spring, and is no longer available because base C5 owners bought all the Z06 parts. I'm trying to stick with stock ride height: the C5 doesn't have much travel, it already scrapes on things, and the fender design means it's never going to "tuck tire" anyway. So, VMS "lowering bolts" that are shorter than stock by replacing the rubber bushing with Delrin.I have not noticed any ride quality reductions from this, but my rubber bushings were shot anyway.

Replaced a $50 extension harness on the Corvette attached to a wheel speed sensor. The pins on these loosen over time due to vibration, the sensors don't actually go bad (except for the one I cooked because it was inside a failing wheel bearing, but that's a freebie because it's part of the wheel bearing part). Losing one of these disables stability & traction control and ABS. The car is on stock-ish tires with fairly aggressive brake pads, and the pads want me to do 3-5 90-20mph stops as rapidly as possible, so ABS would be good to have. I'm also not sure I have all of the air out of the brake lines after swapping to stainless lines (along with pads and rotors), and I can't do the ABS auto-bleed from the scan tool with a current trouble code.

Added 5lb of left over CLD to the trunk of the SS, as a first step in making that car less noisy. Focused on the rear seat bulkhead and fender area, didn't touch the aluminum trunk lid or plastic spare tire tub.

# ? Jan 8, 2024 10:12

Darchangel: Feb 12, 2009; Tell him about the blower!

Motronic posted:

Where do you live that you can't get standard metric hardware like an M6 bolt from a hardware store nearby?

AMERICA

...yeah, you can get them, but they won't be the correct washer head bolts. Hardware store has the most basic garbage for Metric, despite every car, appliance, toy, and most furniture made in the las 20 years at least being metric.
Just :psyduck:

Powershift posted:

I configured some mounts for my own, too.

I've got a second set of mounts to go lower on the bumperettes but they have to at least be loosened for that.

I'm on the fence about buying 4 motorcycle headlights off aliexpress. 2 clear for the top inside, 2 amber for the lower outside.

gently caress. Yes.

McTinkerson posted:

That being said, six of the eight coil packs had cracks the length of the body. One was so bad that the body was two pieces.

Your numbering on the coil packs is triggering me.

Mcqueen posted:

What's cooler than one amp buried in a old shitbox? Two amps buried in a poo poo box!

You know whats less cool than multi-amps? Cancer on all 4 corners from some rear end in a top hat who put jackstands where they shouldn't be.

This is totally my fault for not being more careful, and the truth is I don't want to take the time to learn how to or spend time fixing this and the rusted through wheel arches. I'll probably end up taking the cool poo poo off this car (interior, louvers, SPG wheels) and sending this to the scrap yard. Incredibly frustrating day...

Oof.
FWIW, the Alpine amp install looks half decent?

# ? Jan 10, 2024 17:26

WTFBEES: Apr 21, 2005; butt

heffray posted:

Corvette loud

I haven't tried this personally, but I've heard good things about this kind of trunk separator and reducing road noise by blocking off the big cavern sitting behind you.

https://www.amazon.com/Corvette-Compartment-Divider-Partition-Embroidered/dp/B086QLNQB8

I plan to give it a try if I can find a plain, non-Boomered out version.

# ? Jan 10, 2024 19:29

Suburban Dad: Jan 10, 2007; Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself

WTFBEES posted:

I plan to give it a try if I can find a plain, non-Boomered out version.

Sir, I'd like to take this chance to remind you that you bought a Corvette and that the are no other versions.

Amazing the amount of gaudy things you can find out there. That cover could be way worse at least.

# ? Jan 10, 2024 20:20

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# ? May 27, 2024 17:18

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

Is J.C. Whitney still as thing? They used to have the most epic sized section of their catalog dedicated to stick on chrome for every generation of vette.

# ? Jan 10, 2024 20:47

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > What did you do to your car today? My car isn't fast, it's only 10s in the 1/4 mile

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