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sharkytm posted:You rang? Thank you for your service, I will buy another angle grinder in your honor.
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Jan 1, 2024 04:19
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meatpimp posted:I didn't finish my deck this year, so I've got material stacked in my garage. It's made things very tight. Plus, the deck project used just about every tool that I have, and I haven't done the full tool clean / put away yet, so poo poo is strewn everywhere. Bambu A1 printer is no joke. It prints out real parts. The M18 batteries fit with a click and pull out like it was a factory part. Still have to print and modify some of the M18 tool mounts, the framing nailer in particular. But... progress... finally. And I have a little bit of clear space on my workbench. 
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Jan 1, 2024 16:26
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EVERYWHERE 
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God drat that looks good. Slatwall stuff seems much more handy than pegboard, too.
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Jan 1, 2024 17:07
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meatpimp posted:Bambu A1 printer is no joke. It prints out real parts. The M18 batteries fit with a click and pull out like it was a factory part. Still have to print and modify some of the M18 tool mounts, the framing nailer in particular. But... progress... finally. And I have a little bit of clear space on my workbench. Love the combo slatwall and battery tool organization! 100% agreed on the Bambu printers -- I picked up a P1S during their Black Friday sale, and you're not kidding, poo poo just *works*. This is my fourth 3d printer over the last ten years, and I've never experienced anything like it. Just open up a project, slice, print, and pop a perfect part off the PEI plate. Threaded parts screw together, prints don't just fail 3/4 of the way through because of extruder problems, clogged nozzles, cumulative z offset, belt tension issues, or weird cooling leading to stringing. I haven't had to dive down an endless rabbithole of tweaks, it just keeps churning out high speed, high quality prints. I'm speechless. Edit: Since I see you're screwing into parts, you might be interested in these threaded inserts from CNC kitchen: https://cnckitchen.store/collections/soldering-tips-and-sets Basically you pop an adapter into a soldering iron, put a threaded insert onto the adapter, and melt it into the part. Then you've got a solid metal threaded adapter to screw into! Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Jan 1, 2024 |
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Jan 1, 2024 17:28
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Catatron Prime posted:100% agreed on the Bambu printers A printer like that is the difference between having a 3d printer for your work/hobby vs. 3d printing being your hobby (janitoring a printer). I've always been the former (using a Prusa).
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Jan 1, 2024 17:41
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Speaking of grinders, I did some extremely quick and dirty mods to the grinder tree before the festive season. The PPE hooks are new and I added a few more sticks for grinder discs. I also whipped up a cable holding basket. The base plate is cast iron and didn't take well at all to the MIG but it seems to be holding.
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Jan 1, 2024 17:44
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the yeti posted:Slatwall stuff seems much more handy than pegboard, too. Depending... the section behind that workbench I got when I first moved to this house (and I had no money). It's just straight slatwall with black vinyl strips giving some color/finish to the slots. It's strong enough on its own, but now that you mentioned it, I may add one more support to that shelf. The real slatwall has aluminum channels in the slots. I got about 10 4x8 sheets of that from a big box store closing and that stuff is amazingly strong. I've got a couple hundred pounds of wood on a shelf attached to those and I have no concern about it... it's sturdy. Catatron Prime posted:Edit: Since I see you're screwing into parts, you might be interested in these threaded inserts from CNC kitchen: https://cnckitchen.store/collections/soldering-tips-and-sets Looking into that, thanks. That's fancy.
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Jan 1, 2024 19:29
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meatpimp posted:Depending... the section behind that workbench I got when I first moved to this house (and I had no money). It's just straight slatwall with black vinyl strips giving some color/finish to the slots. It's strong enough on its own, but now that you mentioned it, I may add one more support to that shelf. I'll +1 that insert tool. Not just for inserts, can also be used to sink nuts into undersized holes for a great fit. Their inserts are also superb.
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Jan 1, 2024 22:53
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Obviously a long shot but does anybody recognize what this logo could have been? It's a 10 or 20 ton long chassis floor jack.  I'm thinking maybe American Forge but they don't make grey stuff. The jack has greaseable castors on cast legs and probably outweighs a similar 10-ton Strongarm jack by 100lbs.  I got one good one that can get the front end of my pick-up in the air with just the foot pump, but this one pees on the floor.
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Jan 2, 2024 22:07
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Powershift posted:Obviously a long shot but does anybody recognize what this logo could have been? Weyland-Yutani, but with the wrong logo color.
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Jan 2, 2024 23:18
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Regardless of brand, is is going to be a dead nuts simple hydraulic cylinder with basic back ups/cups and o-rings. As long as the piston isn't screwed up, you can probably re-seal it for next to nothing as long as you take the time to size up what you need.
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Jan 3, 2024 00:34
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slidebite posted:Regardless of brand, is is going to be a dead nuts simple hydraulic cylinder with basic back ups/cups and o-rings. Yeah, i think i'm just going to have to set a camera up so i can see how it all goes back together and tear it right down. Another question, would there be any problem with storing these upright on the front wheels, like with the piston facing down? It would be nice to straighten the handle and flip them up against the wall.
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Jan 3, 2024 00:47
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Powershift posted:Obviously a long shot but does anybody recognize what this logo could have been? It's a 10 or 20 ton long chassis floor jack. I can't really tell from the sticker but I spent a while looking at google images for lots of jacks and the construction of the rear with the bolt placement, wheel placement, and the flat bar on the back make it look like an OTC or American Forge 20T jack. OTC makes blue jacks now but there's some reconditioned ones or older listings in silver. American Forge has the same or extremely similar designs sold in red. Current: https://www.otctools.com/products/20-ton-service-jack Reconditioned, presumably a slightly older style: https://www.phjjacks.com/merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=phj&Product_Code=OTC-1511+-+Recon&Category_Code= Older listings with a slightly different build but OTC, presumably new, silver color: https://www.toolsource.com/service-jacks-c-1401_388/hydraulic-service-jack-20-ton-p-129655.html https://www.garageautoequipment.com/OTC-OTC1512-p/otc1512.htm?Click=1016&utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm_medium=shoppingengine American Forge. Looks almost the same, could be made on the same line, but painted red: https://www.tillmantools.com/American-Forge-3140-20-Ton-Hydraulic-Service-Jack-p/aff3140.htm Anyway, none of these seem exactly right but the pictures were cropped kind of close. The OTC listings with silver paint seem pretty close. It could also be that someone slapped a sticker on, or maybe someone rebranded it to sell.
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Jan 3, 2024 00:56
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Thanks, that's about what i found, too. I can't find any with wheels/castors that beefy. I would imagine most come out of the same 3 factories, but with the strong-arm brand jacks the Japanese and Chinese built ones are quite a bit different. Rebuild kits have a crazy mark-up anyways, but they seem a little more idiot proof.
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Jan 3, 2024 01:05
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Powershift posted:Thanks, that's about what i found, too. I can't find any with wheels/castors that beefy. I would imagine most come out of the same 3 factories, but with the strong-arm brand jacks the Japanese and Chinese built ones are quite a bit different. Yeah, I'm gonna guess OTC 1512 due to the paint, but I see the Strongarm 030438 and the American Forge I linked are very similar parts with different colored paint. The angles on the caster supports and the angle on the bottom of the unit itself seem to match up although some pictures have a bend on the bottom of the sides and some don't. Might have been a revision. The sticker is a mystery!
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Jan 3, 2024 01:24
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They are almost certainly a bastard child of the Norco 71000 and AFF 3120. The leak is at the blue circle and I'm fairly sure i see a metal clad wiper which means Japanese pump.   I filled it up and tightened the packing nut a little bit at a time and jacked the car up, and got it down to just drops when pumping but i think the the rubber packing at #73 is probably toast. The parts are discontinued outside of the rebuild kit and I'm not sure i want to spend $250 on a free jack. I might just make the best Jack i can out of the two. and call it even. Powershift fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Jan 3, 2024 |
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Jan 3, 2024 05:22
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I finally put together the blasting cabinet i've had in the box for like 2 years. It sucked doing it alone but i could still just barely reach both sides of all the bolts. I've never seen such soft, malformed screws. I made a huge mess but it's sealed really well apart from the bottom hatch which isn't my fault. I rigged up a small filter so i could plug two compressors into it.    I was going to build a dust extractor, but just doing rusty metal with copper slag, there really isn't that much dust.
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Jan 7, 2024 03:07
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This has probably been asked before but what's a good tool for crimping these style of connectors, any ole cheap tool or are there better quality ones worth getting?  Also these types     His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 07:31 on Jan 9, 2024 |
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Jan 9, 2024 07:27
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a cheapish ratcheting one will probably be pretty decent. the first style are called "insulated terminals" and the second style are "open barrel terminals". the crimper for the former looks like this   and for the latter looks like this  looks like klein doesnt sell the open barrel as an assembled crimper, but you can put those dies in most ratcheting handles, including their own of course cheaper ones are mostly fine but sometimes the dies dont line up right, or have too much clearance, so don't go too cheap. i like the iwiss ones i got on aliexpress, but their heatshrink terminal crimper under-crimps for me. the amazon wirefy one ive tried seemed kind of sloppy but works ok (except also for the heatshrink terminals).
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Jan 9, 2024 08:07
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What Raluek said, except I use an Astro 9477 set for my RBY terminals (both insulated and heatshrink types) and an iwiss one for open barrel. You can get a fair number of dies for the 9477 because a bunch of companies have copied their design and it's a no tool die change which is nice.
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Jan 9, 2024 14:23
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kastein posted:What Raluek said, except I use an Astro 9477 set for my RBY terminals (both insulated and heatshrink types) and an iwiss one for open barrel. You can get a fair number of dies for the 9477 because a bunch of companies have copied their design and it's a no tool die change which is nice.
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Jan 9, 2024 18:11
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Iwiss (icrimp now) makes decent clones of pretty much every crimper in existence.
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Jan 9, 2024 18:38
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Raluek posted:ratcheting one deimos posted:Iwiss (icrimp now) makes decent clones of pretty much every crimper in existence. This is all you need to get perfect crimps. If you are not doing it for a living, icrimp or similarly priced will last a lifetime. Expanding on what Raluek said, you can actually get crimpers for non insulated spade terminals too. If the dies or crimper has painted colored dots, they are for insulated terminals.
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Jan 11, 2024 00:19
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I’m late to the party but I recently picked up the pictured Klein Tools ratcheting crimper and it’s great. The electrical stuff at my job, when it comes up, goes much smoother.
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Jan 11, 2024 01:57
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Speaking of work, another Ryobi oscillating tool and battery died today  Must be because we’re on hellpage
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Jan 11, 2024 01:59
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While I use AMP/Daniels etc at work, the Hozan P-707 has been a really nice universal uninsulated crimper for my home projects. https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Tools/tools.html
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Jan 11, 2024 06:45
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Posting on the 666 page to shill the Astro style shrimpers Kastein was plugging. Check out this Amazon listing with dies: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BV3FHKT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can get dies for FLAG TERMINALS! I have some of the universal Hozan style linked by Sgt Fox and basically never use them as I've just gotten specialty dies for my Astro for just about everything. I am kinda disappointment with the quality of the die surfaces (they are 100% servicable) compared to the Iwiss (icrimp) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BV3FHKT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They have EDM die cavities, super smooth and with really good alignment. Very good for small terminals.
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Jan 11, 2024 16:44
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Sgt Fox posted:While I use AMP/Daniels etc at work, the Hozan P-707 has been a really nice universal uninsulated crimper for my home projects. https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Tools/tools.html I have a Lista drawer full of Molex, JST, Daniels, Amphenol, and Samtec crimpers. It's probably $20k worth of application specific tooling, and that's just for my little product line. When I worked for a robotics company, their wall of crimpers was worth about $600k, not including the commonly used crimpers on every tech's work station.
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Jan 12, 2024 01:38
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Commodore_64 posted:Posting on the 666 page to shill the Astro style shrimpers Kastein was plugging. Check out this Amazon listing with dies: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BV3FHKT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can get em for Weatherpak, spark plug wires, amp superseal, and a few other things too. Some of the connectors I use require a pair of 600 dollar crimpers. One for each size of pin in the connector. Right now I'm using the wrong ones and testing carefully but eventually I'm going to need to buy the right ones. I've bothered Astro about making dies for them since there are only two options right now and each costs over 500 dollars (rennsteig makes one that does both sizes and "only" costs $535) but no news yet.
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Jan 12, 2024 03:01
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Hail Satan!Krakkles posted:That honestly looks identical to my BluePoint set, as well. Same, I picked up a used Bluepoint set on fleabay after realizing that hulking down with channellocks isn't quite the same as a good crimp Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Jan 12, 2024 |
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Jan 12, 2024 05:45
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  Catatron Prime posted:Hail Satan! the main thing is that you need a shitload of pressure. if you just crunch em with pliers, the ferrule just squishes out into an oval, rather than actually compressing the wire strands. the sides of the crimp die are almost as important as the top and bottom. a good crimp actually forms a cold weld. if you cut apart the crimp, everything should be squeezed into a solid-ish mass; if you have strands that fall out, the crimp was insufficient. you really can get away with a lot of bullshit and it'll mostly work, but man a good crimp with the fancy manufacturer-specified crimpers is just so slick i gotta find a way to keep my red heatshrink terminals from under-crimping and pulling out. i don't think any actual oem uses those shrink terminals, so there isn't really a "good" crimper for everyone to copy. molex makes one, 64016-0041, but it's just got those single-action oval dies that don't really constrain the barrel of the terminal side to side so i dont trust it. 
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Jan 12, 2024 09:45
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Commodore_64 posted:Posting on the 666 page to shill the Astro style shrimpers Kastein was plugging. Check out this Amazon listing with dies: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BV3FHKT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Commodore_64 posted:Posting on the 666 page to shill the Astro style shrimpers Kastein was plugging. Commodore_64 posted:shrimpers https://www.reddit.com/r/relationships/comments/czsyv5/my_youngman_gets_shrimpy_during_sex_is_this_normal/ 
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Jan 12, 2024 16:29
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kastein posted:You can get em for Weatherpak, spark plug wires, amp superseal, and a few other things too. How are you bugging Astro? Do they still have a rep on Garage Journal?
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Jan 12, 2024 17:13
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C-Bangin' it 
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I used the email form on their website since I don't have a garagejournal account (yet)
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Jan 12, 2024 22:50
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kastein posted:I used the email form on their website since I don't have a garagejournal account (yet) Yeah...on garage journal Astro_Pneumatic_Tools is the user. Recently active. Of course, your emails to Astrotools@astrotools.com may have gone to him but given companies are idiots on how they handle emails who knows. Astro likes to sniff around and get feedback on how to improve or develop a new product. They aren't perfect, but they give a poo poo.
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Jan 12, 2024 23:54
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Honestly even if they bitbucket 100% of my emails I'm already happier with them and their crimper than I am with basically any other crimper I've ever bought, so that's really saying something. As I recall my email was pretty much like "well I'd sure love to give you guys a bunch of money for a Molex CMC crimper die (set) that handles as many pin sizes and wire gauges as possible, oh and can you list all your dies as individual products on your website and maybe sell a blow mold case that is the same size as the main crimper one but holds nothing but dies please, let me give you all my money". But even just buying knockoff dies from random companies on Amazon that fit the terminals I need and Astro's crimper has gotten me pretty far. I'd rather give that money to them though.
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Jan 13, 2024 00:01
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 Anyone got a recommendation for a strut compressor? This thing looks alright for the price, but I have no idea if any of these are worth buying. i can put some anchors in the concrete in the garage and bolt it down, that's not an issue. https://cal-vantools.com/products/floor-mounted-2200-lbs-spring-compressor/ Looks like a combination of the threaded spring compressors I've got, just with a thing at the bottom that grabs the strut.
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Jan 13, 2024 01:36
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Thanks for all the tips about crimp tools. Looks like icrimp from amazon is gonna be the best deal. I did however by one of these tools because I needed something to crimp with ASAP and I was curious to try this style of wire stripper: I have one of these for years, it does not crimp though:  Now if you ask me, as a left handed person, the 2nd one is way better. It's also easier to get into tight confined with it I think. When I held it at the store I didn't really think about it, but when in actual usage I found it was always pointing so I couldn't see what was going on unless I went right handed. So not that happy with the tool, but it did crimp what I needed to get crimped for redoing my rear lights. I got some frustrating work waiting for me if I want to rewire a fuse to accept incoming power from another place. I don't want to remove the fuse panel entirely that would be too much of a hassle, not everything is disconnectable. So I have to lift up the fuse holder as much as I can and work in the little space now under it. But one wire then splice into another and make a new connection. I can just imagine the frustration already! I am not sure any of these tools would actually work that well in such a cramped space that I imagine I have to work in. I think maybe I'd be better off to try and do a T-splice like this guy instead of crimping, then tape with vulcanizing tape https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4b_gSciGIg
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Jan 13, 2024 09:50
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Crimping chat: I have a few hundred crimps to do for a project coming up, not looking forward to it. There are a couple of options in the cordless changeable-die crimpers, but they are $texas. Gonna try my luck with an ebay used Chinese clone of the Greenlee EK50ML ( the no brand EW-50X, straight rip off!) vs 
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Jan 13, 2024 15:50
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How is the knock-off still $350.
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Jan 13, 2024 17:21
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