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I have a tankless heater located inside my garage that froze the last time the temperatures dipped. I know that it's good to open cabinet doors under sinks, so by this logic would removing the metal cover for the tankless heater have the same effect?
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Jan 12, 2024 20:52
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Trickortreat posted:I have a tankless heater located inside my garage that froze the last time the temperatures dipped. No. You open a cabinet indoors because the cabinet traps cold air. The garage is full of cold air, so opening the cabinet makes it worse. You could drain the water out of it and shut it off, or keep a faucet trickling warm water so it kicks on occasionally.
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Jan 12, 2024 20:57
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Insulate the cabinet and put a small space heater in it. Better yet, insulate the garage and put a larger space heater in that.
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Jan 12, 2024 21:02
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An important question imo would be how often does it get below freezing in the garage? If it's ~once a year, I'd just leave a faucet dripping to keep some water moving through it.
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Jan 12, 2024 21:11
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  This dishwasher inlet hose got folded over on itself for a few days and is still a little deformed at the bend. Any chance its damaged or am I being paranoid? The rubber is still soft and there is now a small crease which is just after where the valve nipple? ends. The hose has enough slack I could probably cut off like 1/4" without much trouble.
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Jan 12, 2024 22:51
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 No more weird valley in the roof, proper flat roof material, *and* the roof deck isn't wavy anymore.
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Jan 13, 2024 01:00
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Nice. Without all the extra layers of shingles it doesn't have to go uphill anymore.
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Jan 13, 2024 01:07
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That's a nice roof you got there. Sure would be
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Jan 13, 2024 01:14
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H110Hawk posted:That's a nice roof you got there. Sure would be *slaps roof of house* this bad boy can fit so much loving water outside of it
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Jan 13, 2024 02:31
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Cold water doesn't work in my en suite sink. Hot is fine and every other tap in the house is working. The shut off turns normally and the inlets don't feel frozen or anything. I'll rip it apart tomorrow but wondering if there's a common cause; I've replaced plenty of cartridges but that's been due to taps leaking, not the opposite problem.
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Jan 13, 2024 07:41
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What’s the magic word to find durable springs for outside use? The little 2”ish inch guys I have a pack of for my fence gate latch are I think galvanized steel but they rust or break off when he’s cold enough.
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Jan 13, 2024 15:42
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the yeti posted:What’s the magic word to find durable springs for outside use? The little 2”ish inch guys I have a pack of for my fence gate latch are I think galvanized steel but they rust or break off when he’s cold enough. Stainless steel maybe? Prepare to pay out the rear end
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Jan 13, 2024 15:49
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Deteriorata posted:No. You open a cabinet indoors because the cabinet traps cold air. The garage is full of cold air, so opening the cabinet makes it worse. tetrapyloctomy posted:Insulate the cabinet and put a small space heater in it. Better yet, insulate the garage and put a larger space heater in that. Rakeris posted:An important question imo would be how often does it get below freezing in the garage? If it's ~once a year, I'd just leave a faucet dripping to keep some water moving through it.
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Jan 13, 2024 16:59
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the yeti posted:What’s the magic word to find durable springs for outside use? The little 2”ish inch guys I have a pack of for my fence gate latch are I think galvanized steel but they rust or break off when he’s cold enough. Zinc or stainless are the options, with stainless being the most durable. They also have powder coated springs that I assume/hope are stainless too
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Jan 13, 2024 17:14
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Opopanax posted:Cold water doesn't work in my en suite sink. Hot is fine and every other tap in the house is working. The shut off turns normally and the inlets don't feel frozen or anything. I'll rip it apart tomorrow but wondering if there's a common cause; I've replaced plenty of cartridges but that's been due to taps leaking, not the opposite problem. I'm at a loss. Pulled the inlet right out of the shut off and got nothing directly from there  So it's not the Faucet itself but I have no access to any of those pipes. I had a good look at the rooms underneath this area and I don't see any signs of leaking or anything. All I can think is that we had a bit of a cold snap this week, but it was only -8 yesterday and it's back up to -4 today, and certainly above 0 in the house. Should I just put a space heater near those pipes and hope for the best?
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Jan 13, 2024 19:06
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Is this plumbing on an outside wall? You said you removed the hoses from the valves shown in the picture? The hot water flowed but the cold still didn't? *could* be the valve itself, but unlikely. With the valve open can you shove a little piece of wire in there to see if theres anything stuck in it?
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Jan 13, 2024 20:01
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wesleywillis posted:Is this plumbing on an outside wall? All interior stuff. The hot water works no problem right at the Faucet as normal so I didn't touch that, it's only the cold that's not moving. Didn't put anything in but when I closed the valve a little bit of water welled up so somethings moving there. The knob itself moves fine as well.
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Jan 13, 2024 20:41
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dupersaurus posted:If I wanted to add a room to my house, who do I go to to start? If it’s just a box can a general contractor do it or do I need to hit up an architect first? And what order of magnitude do I need to expect to spend, middle five figures? When I looked at this a couple years ago I ended up just moving to a different house a few miles away. Seems like it was only really going to be worth it if the land was something uniquely special or valuable (beachfront, family inheritance, etc), not the boring suburbs where that house was.
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Jan 14, 2024 00:22
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canyoneer posted:When I looked at this a couple years ago I ended up just moving to a different house a few miles away. Especially in the current labor/building environment.
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Jan 14, 2024 02:45
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Ok water started flowing again. That sink is against an exterior wall and the pipes have a short run along it so freezing makes sense. What, if anything, can I do about that? That bathroom is always cold, but even though it's against an exterior wall it's a finished wall with siding and everything
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Jan 14, 2024 06:32
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wesleywillis posted:Is this plumbing on an outside wall? Opopanax posted:All interior stuff. Opopanax posted:That sink is against an exterior wall This is pretty much the lesson in this thread and others of "why you didn't get good advice". Opopanax posted:freezing makes sense. What, if anything, can I do about that? That bathroom is always cold, but even though it's against an exterior wall it's a finished wall with siding and everything Any number of things depending on the exact situation. Make the bathroom not as cold by fixing whatever deficiency you have in your climate control. Leave the bathroom door open so it stays warmer. Run/drip water from that sink when it's this cold.
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Jan 14, 2024 13:57
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Yeah that was me being dumb and not actually realizing it was exterior. The house kind of juts in at that point and I thought the kitchen was behind it, but after looking at it better I realize there's about a 4 foot section that's exterior and that's where the pipes would be, d'oh. Weird that it's never done that before, it only got down to -8C and it's definitely been colder than that before
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Jan 14, 2024 15:41
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The easiest thing is to move the piping into the living space where they'll be heated. It's not easy, but the most elegant solution; trying to insulate against freeze in your situation may not work very well; opening the wall to introduce heat into the wall space will result in a river of cold air coming into the bathroom. Or, open the wall to expose the pipes, and wrap them in electric heat tape on a thermostat - but that means calling up a new electrical line & box for all that. It really depends on how frequently this happens. Keep in mind that every time it freezes you risk it rupturing.
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Jan 14, 2024 16:55
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This is the first time but I'll definitely keep an eye out. That bathroom is always really cold so I'm wondering if they half assed the insulation. The whole thing needs to be ripped out and renoed anyways since we hate a lot of what they did, but it's low on the list of things for me to do when I have time/money
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Jan 14, 2024 18:12
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I need to build an interior stud wall in my basement. It would be up against the rubble foundation wall. It rests on a sort of bench where the footing is proud of the rubble wall. The basement stairs will be attached to it, but it is otherwise not load bearing, it’s for insulation and drywall only. My contractors left plumbing vent pipes coming down with a double elbow right where my top plate would run the span of the staircase opening, and under the floor joists. Is there a simple way to handle this intersection? I’m stumped. 
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Jan 14, 2024 19:58
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You'll have to build a bump-out around it.
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Jan 14, 2024 22:03
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PainterofCrap posted:You'll have to build a bump-out around it. That doesn’t really solve the problem of running the top plate though.
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Jan 14, 2024 22:09
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You may need to provide more detail and photos. I presume that you are showing us the wall that you want to frame a wall against with the ledge being the top of the wall. If you're stick-building a curtain wall that will stand against that wall that's poured against the rubble foundation, you build around the pipes. The wall is not load-bearing; it can be attached to the masonry. You'd have to build a wide cap to cover the top of the wall and the masonry ledge, which can be plywood.
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Jan 14, 2024 22:26
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PainterofCrap posted:that wall that's poured against the rubble foundation, I don’t know what you mean by this. quote:you build around the pipes. That’s what I don’t know how to do. Specifically, run the top plate paste those elbows. quote:The wall is not load-bearing; it can be attached to the masonry. You'd have to build a wide cap to cover the top of the wall and the masonry ledge, which can be plywood. This is correct. Instead of a wide cap, there will be another stud wall against that brick face that is further set back from the rubble wall face. The wall is basically 3 steps: the footing with a four inch exposed top extending past the rubble wall, the rubble wall which is about 2’ thick on top of the footing which itself has about a 6” top exposed, then the inner brick wall withe which runs up two full storeys as a flat plane. I’m building a stud wall against the rubble wall for finishing and supporting the stair stringer and a landing. Then I’m building another stud wall against the brick wall set back from the lower wall, a full two storeys tall. The staircase to the second floor goes against that wall. Like so: 
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Jan 14, 2024 23:52
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The wall should be flat to the foundation wall Excuse my weak excuse for a drawing 
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Jan 14, 2024 23:59
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OK. Box it out at both levels. Build up a box on top of the ledge & your lower curtain wall framing so the sillplate is elevated to clear the short horizontal run of the pipes, build your upper curtain wall on that. You'll still need to box out the vertical runs. You could also build the entire wall as a single elevation, in front of the lower (against the masonry) and the upper (stood off). Still have to box out a chase for the lower. But I do not know what the rest of the room/space looks like so - how feasible/practical. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Jan 15, 2024 |
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Jan 15, 2024 00:21
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PainterofCrap posted:OK. The upper curtain wall is unobstructed. It’s not a problem. Are you saying the lower wall top plate should run above the pipes, and thus not below the floor joists? I still have studs past those pipes under the flooring in the pic.
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Jan 15, 2024 00:53
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Well, poo poo: A brief history of this room: 1. Bought the house, removed the existing carpet in the room, put in hardwood floors. I remember, when I installed the flooring, noticing that the adhesive on the underlayment was attracting a lot of pillbugs from somewhere. 2. Used the room as a bedroom, no noticed issues. 3. Moved my bedroom, used the room as a TV room, maybe 1-2x/week. 4. Had a rodent issue, killed the mice, got anxiety about clearing up their poop, and just closed the door to the room and forgot about it...for, I dunno, 3 years? This is post-cleanup; there was a bunch of fine brown "dirt" on the floor and a bit up the walls. My best guess is that it was a combination of insect poop, decomposed insects, and a little mouse poop. Certainly there was plenty of evidence of spiders here. My concern mostly is with the discolored floorboards along the edge, which suggest excess moisture to me. I'm really hoping that if I leave the door open and circulate air, it'll dry out and the discoloration will go away...
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Jan 15, 2024 01:19
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What's going on outside at that wall? If you're lucky, only that window opening is leaking. If you are not, then also, termites have discovered old, wet wood and are having a party. I'd remove the drywall from under that window to start, then move up either side until you find the entry point. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Jan 15, 2024 |
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Jan 15, 2024 01:46
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This is the outside of that window. Nothing obviously wrong to my eye. (click for full-size) I did notice that there's a lot of small succulents clustered around the base of the wall there. That is, in retrospect, not a great sign. 
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Jan 15, 2024 02:02
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You're about to sell this place right? And you have been ignoring this room for... 3 years? Pull the succulents away and make sure it's not about to rot out then maybe just ignore it for a few more months until the termite people find it? 
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Jan 15, 2024 02:06
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I suspect that the bed, there, at the wall is higher than the level of the floor inside. Then again: if that's block, then it's either: 1) termites working their way up inside the block; or 2) a leak from around the window opening, possibly followed by 1) as they go after the furring strip at, & studs above, the masonry kneewall. Oh and they love drywall paper. Suspicious of where the downspout terminates. That'll make a nice lake. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Jan 15, 2024 |
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Jan 15, 2024 02:07
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It's a concrete slab foundation, with stick construction (i.e. 2x4 studs/plates) and drywall. The downspout just drops water off like 4" from the foundation. I think there's a paver underneath it, but that's not exactly moving the water away very much. That said, the entire front yard does slope down away from the house. It sounds like my next tasks are to take a shovel to the outside area, add an extension to the downspout, and see if letting the room air out helps with the discoloration any. Maybe point a fan at the room to help it along. And if that doesn't help, then open up the wall and see what the damage is.
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Jan 15, 2024 02:14
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PainterofCrap posted:You may need to provide more detail and photos. Qft I still have zero idea of what the issue is or why he can’t just build a soffit around the vent pipes. We need more photos. Given that these stud walls are just to hang drywall, it doesn’t really matter too much how you do it (within reason of course), so long as it’s square, level, and true. Frame a box around the vent pipes first and then come up afterwards and tie it into your stud wall. PainterofCrap posted:If you are not, then also, termites have discovered old, wet wood and are having a party. Doesn’t look like any termite damage I’ve ever seen, that’s likely just water intrusion from the window. Looks like the eaves of the roof are pretty short so not much protection from rain. I would caulk the windows (I like OSI Quad) and set up a dehumidifier in the room. Do not open the wall up if at all possible, as you have textured plaster walls and it will be impossible to fix and patch them so as to get the texture to match. Nevermind the high likelihood of lead paint.
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Jan 15, 2024 14:34
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Well, poo poo:
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Jan 15, 2024 17:02
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