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Yeah, just store your film separately and ask nicely, have it in your hands when you get to the front of the line. If they say no then that's that and let them scan it. Likely you'll have no issues even if scanned. Film from my Spain trip got hit by 10 scans and showed no obvious damage. CT isn't as scary as people make it out to be, at the most it adds some base fog but you likely won't notice anything tbh.
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Jan 12, 2024 21:32
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Jan 13, 2024 02:55
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TSA security person hands me my bag “Your film has been exposed to 3.6 Roentgen, not great, not terrible”
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Jan 13, 2024 04:13
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Went through old photo stuff before darkroom time tomorrow. Found a roll of HP5+ unopened expired 2016, a shot roll of FP4+, and a ???? Roll of Kodak Gold. I still have a stash of undeveloped rolls from the last decade *somewhere*. I also know I have prints of the expired Seattle FilmWorks roll I shot, but I know I don't have the negatives for that. I suspect I've got another box of photography stuff in the basement. E: also, since someone was posting about super 8 recently, I found a Yashica Super8. It needs a repair to keep the cartridge door closed. I must have set it aside when I got the rest of my grandfather's cameras since I wasn't interested, but ever since reading those posts, I've been thinking it would be fun to try. carticket fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Jan 13, 2024 |
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Jan 13, 2024 04:40
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Over the past few weeks I've been taking the steps to get into dry plate photography and jumped straight into coating my own plates. I shot my first "successful" one today. Out of 4 plates I shot 1 exposure test (cause I need to figure out how sensitive my emulsion is) 1 photo and smashed 2 when they fell out of the holder in the camera.  I did a contact print cause I was in the darkroom anyway to develop the plates so I did a little bit of printing too. 
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Jan 13, 2024 06:22
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Didn't gently caress up my yolo development. I maybe shot a roll and pushed the exposure and didn't note it, or more likely based on the order of the shots, I hosed up my camera settings and accidentally stopped down. The biggest problem I had was being unable to find all the rolls of film I shot recently. Developed 4 rolls, forgot one at home, at least one MIA, plus I know I had several from years ago when I was moving that are also missing (but I care about them less).
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Jan 14, 2024 03:15
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I bought a color skopar 35 2.5 for my IIIf. Ended up making one of those viewfinders from a scavenged Canon owl. I love the mix of old and less old, German and Japanese. Something cool about using glass made in 2000s with a camera where you still have to cut the film leaders, and the highest ISO rating recorded is 100. I'm interested in how the pictures will turn out. I have two pictures, one with the lens hood and one without. Is it kosher to walk around with a UV filter for lens protection without a cap over it and using the filter alone for protection? My seller was nice enough to include 3 nice UV filters. I'm thinking of wearing it under my jacket as well. 
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Jan 14, 2024 03:40
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lollybo posted:Is it kosher to walk around with a UV filter for lens protection without a cap over it and using the filter alone for protection? My seller was nice enough to include 3 nice UV filters. I'm thinking of wearing it under my jacket as well. I am comparatively pretty cavalier with my gear so take this with a grain of salt, but a hood is usually all the protection I bother with when carry a camera around. It keeps your fingers/other objects off the glass, and provides some impact protection, while not compromising image quality (and helping with flare). If it gets in the way of your RF (hard to tell from the picture, but looks like it might), I'd buy a cheap plastic one on AliExpress and make a cutout for it. Megabound posted:Over the past few weeks I've been taking the steps to get into dry plate photography and jumped straight into coating my own plates. I shot my first "successful" one today. Out of 4 plates I shot 1 exposure test (cause I need to figure out how sensitive my emulsion is) 1 photo and smashed 2 when they fell out of the holder in the camera. Nice work! What'd you land on for the ISO?
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Jan 14, 2024 18:54
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I am comparatively pretty cavalier with my gear so take this with a grain of salt, but a hood is usually all the protection I bother with when carry a camera around. It keeps your fingers/other objects off the glass, and provides some impact protection, while not compromising image quality (and helping with flare). About 1 but I didn't get to shoot enough to really nail it down. It'll also change with time of day and cloud cover thanks to the ortho emulsion
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Jan 14, 2024 22:24
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What's the most well regarded C41-but-it's-B&W film at the moment? Still the Ilford one? I have a local group wanting to do a ~black and white shoot~, but I ain't really about sending it out to a better lab than we have here. And yeah I know you can do it all in post etc but these people are on a MISSION to be artsy.
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Jan 15, 2024 04:07
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XP2 I think is the last one going so those are your options
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Jan 15, 2024 04:32
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XP2 rules. Being able to do digital ICE is a super convenient.
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Jan 15, 2024 17:36
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Megabound posted:About 1 but I didn't get to shoot enough to really nail it down. It'll also change with time of day and cloud cover thanks to the ortho emulsion Definitely - are you doing the step test method with the darkslide? SoundMonkey posted:What's the most well regarded C41-but-it's-B&W film at the moment? Still the Ilford one? I have a local group wanting to do a ~black and white shoot~, but I ain't really about sending it out to a better lab than we have here. And yeah I know you can do it all in post etc but these people are on a MISSION to be artsy. If you've got even a passing interest in doing B&W in the future, it might be worth it to grab a setup for developing your own. You can sometimes find little kits on Marketplace with a changing bag/tank. B&W is pretty forgiving and the chems generally have a long shelf life.
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Jan 15, 2024 18:12
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i got some film developed at a lab from my trip to nepal last year. there's a white horizontal line on the negative from a certain number of rolls. Is that from the camera or the lab? I noticed they're roughly in the same location as the plastic sleeve thing they stored the developed negatives in. examples:   edit: wow that's a lot of dust and hair on the scan, please ignore that I've just put another roll through the same camera and going to get that developed at different lab. Another question: what's the best to get rid of the line in post-processing? I tried using the heal tool in LR but that was incredibly tedious and not that effective. My laptop's super old too so it chugged and I don't want to do that for every picture. grilledcheese fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Jan 15, 2024 |
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Jan 15, 2024 19:29
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^ Those are rad. Too bad about the line. I guess if you have a loupe, or something, try and see if it's on the negative.Ethics_Gradient posted:If you've got even a passing interest in doing B&W in the future, it might be worth it to grab a setup for developing your own. You can sometimes find little kits on Marketplace with a changing bag/tank. B&W is pretty forgiving and the chems generally have a long shelf life. Was intimidated by this for years. Especially the thought of trying to get the film into the spool while using a changing bag. It turned out to be really easy. Just first practice a few times with a sacrificial roll.
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Jan 15, 2024 19:32
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Thank you! It's definitely on the negative. I'm a little choked because it's on about a third of the rolls I shot on the trip.
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Jan 15, 2024 19:35
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grilledcheese posted:i got some film developed at a lab from my trip to nepal last year. there's a white horizontal line on the negative from a certain number of rolls. Is that from the camera or the lab? I noticed they're roughly in the same location as the plastic sleeve thing they stored the developed negatives in. These are nice! There are two main possibilities for the scratch: either there's a little rough spot where the film travels across the back of your camera, or the lab had a rough spot on their scanner (the commercial ones usually feed 35mm in as one long strip, you don't get this problem with flatbeds). Trying another lab is a good way to check, you can also feel with your fingertip inside the camera to see if you can find anything there; the location of where it is on the frame should help you, but remember it's upside down. For getting rid of it (as well as dust, hairs, etc) a graphics tablet is a game-changer. Load up a good podcast, pour yourself a beverage of your choice, and have at it.
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Jan 15, 2024 19:54
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I had a similar issue on some of my negs though thankfully the line wasn't as bad and it was the lab. I was able to rule out the camera though since I develop my b&w film myself and those didn't have any scratches. Maybe try a different lab and see if there's a difference?
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Jan 15, 2024 19:59
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Definitely - are you doing the step test method with the darkslide? Yeah, that was one of the two photos I took
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Jan 15, 2024 20:37
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lollybo posted:I bought a color skopar 35 2.5 for my IIIf. Ended up making one of those viewfinders from a scavenged Canon owl. I love the mix of old and less old, German and Japanese. Something cool about using glass made in 2000s with a camera where you still have to cut the film leaders, and the highest ISO rating recorded is 100. I'm interested in how the pictures will turn out. I have two pictures, one with the lens hood and one without. Is it kosher to walk around with a UV filter for lens protection without a cap over it and using the filter alone for protection? My seller was nice enough to include 3 nice UV filters. I'm thinking of wearing it under my jacket as well. It’s best practice to cap your lens for these older Leicas. The reason why is that the shutters are light resistant at best and light can leak around the shutter if the light is bright enough. The sun can also damage the cloth shutters so it’s just better to cap the lens when not shooting.
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Jan 15, 2024 20:58
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They have cloth shutters? drat
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Jan 16, 2024 03:17
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These are some gorgeous photos dude, congrats! I ran a roll of HP5 through my IIIF with 1930s Elmar lens. Pretty happy with the vintage look and good sharpness of such an old lens.     
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Jan 16, 2024 03:32
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Beve Stuscemi posted:They have cloth shutters? drat This is why the Canon VL is the superior LTM rangefinder
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Jan 16, 2024 03:41
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Megabound posted:This is why the Canon VL is the superior LTM rangefinder I agree the Canon's have quality of life improvements, I choose Barnack Leicas as they are fun to shoot, the quirks are what makes using it interesting. I know the product can be replicated by using the same vintage glass in other camera bodies, but I argue folks who choose rangefinders over SLRs in a way are sacrificing convenience for the artform of photography itself. It's like choosing to drive a stick shift, vintage carburetor run car. If I wanted convenience and a more modern camera, I would get a Voigtlander Bessa R, or better yet, get thread mount adapters for an M camera. You will get a lightmeter, as well as combined rangefinder/viewfinder. But I agree if you want a copy of a Barnack Leica that exceeds the original it tried to copy in many ways, Canons are the good choice, but they aren't Leica.
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Jan 16, 2024 03:55
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I'm just poo poo stirring Reccome as he's a Barnack boy but yes, shoot what makes you happy. I never got along with rangefinders in 35mm but use a Moskva-5 for 6x9 which has separate focus and viewfinder window and it's fine and good. Most importantly it's small for a 6x9 so I can carry it everywhere.
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Jan 16, 2024 04:42
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Recoome posted:It’s best practice to cap your lens for these older Leicas. The reason why is that the shutters are light resistant at best and light can leak around the shutter if the light is bright enough. The sun can also damage the cloth shutters so it’s just better to cap the lens when not shooting. Oh, forgot about this! Uncapped lenses can burn a hole through cloth shutters, though I think in practice this probably doesn't happen too often. Megabound posted:I'm just poo poo stirring Reccome as he's a Barnack boy but yes, shoot what makes you happy. I never got along with rangefinders in 35mm but use a Moskva-5 for 6x9 which has separate focus and viewfinder window and it's fine and good. Most importantly it's small for a 6x9 so I can carry it everywhere. I have a Mamiya-Six (the old one from the 50's with integrated lens) coming later this week, was buying a bunch of other stuff on Yahoo! Auctions and made the mistake of looking at camera stuff. Integrated RF/VF with weird focal plane focusing, hell yeah.
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Jan 16, 2024 06:28
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Megabound posted:This is why the Canon VL is the superior LTM rangefinder Completely 100% agree. The Canon III/IVsb etc. even follow the form of the classic Barnack and don't require accessory finders for focal lengths longer than 50mm. Hell, even the Yashica YE or whatever has an advance lever. Absolutely unreal. Megabound posted:I'm just poo poo stirring Reccome as he's a Barnack boy but yes, shoot what makes you happy. I never got along with rangefinders in 35mm but use a Moskva-5 for 6x9 which has separate focus and viewfinder window and it's fine and good. Most importantly it's small for a 6x9 so I can carry it everywhere. That Moskva-5 is an extremely pro camera, many/any MF folders are awesome for the compactness they offer.
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Jan 16, 2024 08:59
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Also when it comes to the old Leica shutters, yes the sun can damage it but the biggest impact is the light getting around the edges of the baffling/ shutter crate and fogging the film. This is especially true given people shoot film that would be considered ultra high speed relative to what was being used in the 1930s. The Leica M has much better light baffling and shutter design which limits light getting around the curtain. The IIIg and IIIf are the best of the screw mounts, with the IIIc being slightly better than the IIIa and so on. Again, the shutters are not light tight, rather they are very light resistant. This is so apparent that you really shouldn’t change the lens on the older Leicas in bright light as you risk fogging the film a bit. The solution is either to just cap your lens or shoot slower film.
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Jan 16, 2024 09:10
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thanks everyone for the feedback!Ethics_Gradient posted:These are nice! i got my roll developed and it looks like the problem is indeed with my camera:  Any suggestions on how best to clean the inside of my camera? I checked quickly and ran my finger over the part where the film would lie (thanks for the head's up that it would be upside down) but didn't see or feel anything. It's a F100. I like the idea of a graphics tablet. I do want to update my computer eventually but it'll be a couple of years, and I'm struggling at the moment with storing my photos with my limited hard drive space and as I mentioned post-processing is a giant pain. It's my least favourite part of the workflow.
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Jan 16, 2024 21:11
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What type of material is the area that the film moves across? If it's a metal and you're feeling brave you might be able to very gently polish it with something like a magic eraser, a piece of denim or even Scotch Brite. Just be cautious with it because I'm not familiar with that camera at all.
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Jan 16, 2024 22:01
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this is what the interior looks like:  i'm not sure of the exact materials but it looks to be mostly metal and plastic. I'm thinking of getting a blower and just gently seeing if i can blow out any dust in the interior. I suspect there is some debris in the pressure plate-like thing, but like I said I can't see anything from a visual inspection.
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Jan 16, 2024 22:36
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Rollers are the most usual culprit and should be cleaned with IPA and then a little drop of lube on the pinions
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Jan 16, 2024 23:20
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Megabound posted:Rollers are the most usual culprit and should be cleaned with IPA and then a little drop of lube on the pinions Important: Isopropyl from the drugstore, not hopster piss beer.
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Jan 17, 2024 00:34
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I got the footage from the test rolls I shot with my 16mm filmo and I'm really pleased with the results! Definitely going to shoot a lot more 16mm (as long as the wallet can take it). I need to color grade it still, which Ive never done before but just the flat scan looked good. I'm really impressed by the old camera. It shot nice and steady footage, especially for a 100 year old design. I may post some clipa when I grade it but it's mostly of my daughter's first Christmas so not sure what I want to share. Definitely recommend motion picture if anyone is on the fence.
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Jan 17, 2024 02:38
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Cassius Belli posted:hopster piss beer. Man, remember like 10-12 years ago when IPAs were all the rage?
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Jan 17, 2024 02:47
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Piss into my camera, got it.
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Jan 17, 2024 02:54
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grilledcheese posted:Piss into my camera, got it. Hey HEY it’s no Nikonos, bub
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Jan 17, 2024 03:35
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grilledcheese posted:i got my roll developed and it looks like the problem is indeed with my camera: Looking at the pictures I see 2 very similar lines in the camera that would line up to the upsidedown lines of your photo. Like there's a molding burr on the plastic there.  
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Jan 18, 2024 05:32
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Wow. good eye, i see that now too. there is a matching side of lines on the right side, too. nothing discernable to the touch though.
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Jan 18, 2024 06:47
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 01:26 |
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lollybo posted:I bought a color skopar 35 2.5 for my IIIf. Ended up making one of those viewfinders from a scavenged Canon owl. I love the mix of old and less old, German and Japanese. Something cool about using glass made in 2000s with a camera where you still have to cut the film leaders, and the highest ISO rating recorded is 100. I'm interested in how the pictures will turn out. I have two pictures, one with the lens hood and one without. Is it kosher to walk around with a UV filter for lens protection without a cap over it and using the filter alone for protection? My seller was nice enough to include 3 nice UV filters. I'm thinking of wearing it under my jacket as well. Gang. I was thinking about picking up an Ultron 35 aspherical for mine but I decided to upgrade my collapsible soviet 50mm instead.  Canon 50mm f1.4 with a hood and a few filters. Should make me shoot 50 more often, I didn't really like the Elmar knockoff as it required sticking your fingers next to the front element to change apertures. I swear to god, one day I will have some pictures to post here. The local place(Mike's Camera in boulder) had their C41 machine go down so they had to send my first post-CLA test roll to another location, it's been just about a month on the dot. Called on Monday and they said it should be in the mail yesterday, if it's not here by tomorrow I'll call again. I also have a roll of pushed 500t ECN2 sent out and am mailing a couple more rolls somewhere else after work this afternoon.
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Jan 18, 2024 19:44
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