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trilobite terror posted:I'm having fun looking at gravel bikes on the internet, as one does, and I am struck by how Canyon thinks that I should buy a Small (49cm), GT thinks I should buy a Medium (45cm?!), and Bianchi says I belong on a Large (55cm) Clark Nova posted:You're not a 49cm unless canyon's sizing is incredibly wacky OP is just quoting the approximate seat tube length as the size - which isn't how bikes are sized, trilobite terror, as top tubes slope different amounts on different bikes. The relevant bits of the geometry are stack and reach (my Tarmac has a 547mm seat tube, but it fits me just fine at 6'5) [edit] Here's the stacks and reaches for the GT Grade, Canyon Grizl and Bianchi Impulso in the size recommended for your height by the manufacturers: code:trilobite terror posted:canyon's size charts are a mess  This is the Canyon geometry chart and I'm not sure what more you'd want? It has lots of measurements presented pretty well (when you mouse over a number it turns the relevant line on the chart orange). Compare to a Bianchi one:  Eeesh MrL_JaKiri fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Jan 8, 2024 |
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Jan 8, 2024 00:36
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here's a big chart of numbers that have no context for anyone new to the sport, so simple what more could you want eeesh
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Jan 8, 2024 01:09
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Salt Fish posted:There are no downsides to running a 1x if you spend 100% of your time in the small ring or your compact 2x anyway. That's why all my bikes have them. who does that
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Jan 8, 2024 03:53
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I spent 90% of my time in my middle gear when I rode a 3x mountain bike so I didn't really feel like I was missing anything moving to a 1x gravel bike
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Jan 8, 2024 04:00
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30x11 at 90rpm is like 30mph, that's so fast.
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Jan 8, 2024 04:10
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The Fool posted:here's a big chart of numbers that have no context for anyone new to the sport, so simple what more could you want Uh isn't this part of why bike shops exist? To provide assistance in choosing a size? Sure, Canyon doesn't have bike shops but a 5 minute covbo w a salesperson would give you enough to at least start googling/researching in a more informed fashion. And I guess I don't understand why it's poor form for the manufacturer to provide a geometry chart, especially when the one in question (Canyon) has one of the best "size guide" layouts in the industry IMO. They show you height and leg length to inform where within each size's range you are for both measurements, where most just show overall height.
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Jan 8, 2024 04:13
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Salt Fish posted:30x11 at 90rpm is like 30mph, that's so fast. Not downhill not really? I spin out the 46x11 on my gravel bike on road descents without trying very hard. Even so, 1x would drive me insane because of the gear stepping more than the overall range. I'm too picky about settling in to the perfect cadence. edit: just ran it through a calculator and a 30x11 at 90rpm is 19.5mph lmao. 46x11 is 30mph at 90rpm no wonder I spin it out on the downhills. Guinness fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Jan 8, 2024 |
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Jan 8, 2024 04:14
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amenenema posted:snip I was commenting on the poster where in response to someone struggling with bike sizing responded with "just read the charts, eeesh" which is super helpful and in no way alienates people new to the sport
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Jan 8, 2024 04:30
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The Fool posted:I was commenting on the poster where in response to someone struggling with bike sizing responded with "just read the charts, eeesh" I took that part as a response to the (IMO) unfounded take that Canyon's size chart is "a mess" and the eesh specifically at how poorly presented the Bianchi one was by comparison. The overall post seemed helpful??
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Jan 8, 2024 04:46
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Guinness posted:Not downhill not really? Yeah largely the reason that 1× works on mountain bikes is that it’s difficult to keep control at thirty miles per hour on gravel descents, let alone singletrack. On smooth pavement, they’d all spin out.
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Jan 8, 2024 04:56
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Guinness posted:Even so, 1x would drive me insane because of the gear stepping more than the overall range. I'm too picky about settling in to the perfect cadence. Same. I recently put 11-34 cassette on my winter / audaxing bike to save my legs on the long hilly rides, and even that feels gappy af compared to what I’m used to. A lot of shifting up then shifting back down because the gear is too high when doing a fast group ride.
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Jan 8, 2024 05:12
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My road bike has a 2×9 drivetrain, and my gravel bike has 1×11. I almost exclusively ride on pavement and chipseal, so I can't speak to the advantages of a 1× on rough terrain. On the 1×, when the grade, wind, and my speed all align just right, I find myself wanting a gear that's between my current gear and the next one up or down. It doesn't always happen, but it does happen. I don't have that issue on my road bike (or even on my 3×7 fitness hybrid / commuter) because of all the overlapping gears.
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Jan 8, 2024 05:15
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evil_bunnY posted:What the gently caress are those humans made of? Many, so many mitochondrias.
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Jan 8, 2024 05:28
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Sometimes wide‐range cassettes are spaced to keep the ratio between adjacent gears close to uniform, and sometimes they’re spaced to put lower gaps on the high end, with big jumps to the last few lowest gears. There are advantages to both, particularly on 2× setups.
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Jan 8, 2024 05:28
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wooger posted:Same. I recently put 11-34 cassette on my winter / audaxing bike to save my legs on the long hilly rides, and even that feels gappy af compared to what I’m used to. The 11-34 is quite gappy in the upper half of the cassette, the jumps are almost as big as the sram 10-36. I've been using a 1x bike on the road/gravel for the last year with a 44 chainring and 10-36 cassettes on my wheels. It's been pretty good overall. I did have to get used to larger differences in cadence though, and sometimes the optimal gear doesn't exist which means you end up going faster or slower than you'd like. Have thought about putting on a front derailleur but loving SRAM made their other derailleurs and xplr incompatible. So I'd need to spend ~700 euros to convert to 2x, which doesn't seem worth it. I think I'll just wait until I can build up a winter/all weather road bike and put 2x on that.
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Jan 8, 2024 07:45
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I'll keep my 2x and front derailleurs because it makes me feel like a big strong pro when I slap it into the 53 going downhill with a tail wind for approx. 20 seconds until I get out of breath and sore legs and just coast.
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Jan 8, 2024 09:22
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Project M.A.M.I.L. posted:I'll keep my 2x and front derailleurs because it makes me feel like a big strong pro when I slap it into the 53 going downhill with a tail wind for approx. 20 seconds until I get out of breath and sore legs and just coast.
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Jan 8, 2024 09:31
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The Fool posted:I was commenting on the poster where in response to someone struggling with bike sizing responded with "just read the charts, eeesh" trilobite terror isn't new (they've been posting in this thread for 3 years, so I assume that they're either someone who likes cycling but hasn't bought lots of bikes before, or someone old school where the seat tube measurement was the size and hasn't bought a new bike since the sloping top tube trend really kicked off in the last few years), and for less experienced people Canyon also have a graph which shows the recommended size for combinations of height and leg lengths (essentially the information at the top of the geometry bit in "you don't need to know anything about bikes" dimensions) as well as a series of instructions of how to measure your height and inside leg at home. If you want to compare between different bike manufacturers recommendations, however, you need to use stack and reach. Which I plucked out from the tables I got from the manufacturers to show that they're all in the same ballpark despite the very different seat tube measurements. Explaining where the OP's confusion comes from and identifying a more appropriate method of comparison that they can use is super helpful, certainly compared to your approach of "not actually do anything helpful, just complain about someone else not meeting your own personal standards" (personal standards which appear to have been measured by not actually reading the post and just getting vibes from pictures). For example, if you'd actually read the post you'd know that the "eeesh" was in reference to how poorly laid out and unreadable the Bianchi geometry chart was (even for someone like me who's au fait with reading them) and not OP's issues with getting data from them so with all due respect, get to gently caress. amenenema posted:I took that part as a response to the (IMO) unfounded take that Canyon's size chart is "a mess" and the eesh specifically at how poorly presented the Bianchi one was by comparison. Indeed, shockingly me quoting the post saying it was a mess was about it being a mess. MrL_JaKiri fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Jan 8, 2024 |
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Jan 8, 2024 11:44
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MrL_JaKiri posted:trilobite terror isn't new (they've been posting in this thread for 3 years, so I assume that they're either someone who likes cycling but hasn't bought lots of bikes before, or someone old school where the seat tube measurement was the size and hasn't bought a new bike since the sloping top tube trend really kicked off in the last few years, and for less experienced people Canyon also have a graph which shows the recommended size for combinations of height and leg lengths (essentially the information at the top of the geometry bit in "you don't need to know anything about bikes" dimensions) as well as a series of instructions of how to measure your height and inside leg at home. Yeah, I’ve been biking off-and-on since 2008. There were pictures of the ZR1000 frankenbike posted to SA bike threads lost to time before I crashed it and hosed up the RD (separate from the rack incident that taco’d the wheels). I was there when Bearpope was born and provided the original copyright-breaking image from a Google image search. The last bike I purchased new was the GT-R in January of 2013. I got it closeout from Bikesdirect, sight-unseen for $900 when everybody thought GT was gonna disappear. I’ve never had a proper bike fit or purchased a bike from a store that way. Mostly got lucky/took a chance on “5’9-5’10? well 54-55cm is right for you”. In college I used my dad’s Trek 613 to ride to class/etc and it’s like a 60cm frame or someshit. I’d ride it with the saddle slammed all the way down, I didn’t care. One time my buddy tried to jokingly cut me off on my way across campus and I slammed on the brakes hard, sliding off of the saddle and destroying my bozack on a top tube that I could barely tiptoe straddle. Starting to wonder if the GT-R (size L) is oversized for me. It’s never felt like “wrong”, but I’ve also never had a bike feel like it really fit me like a glove either. Say what you will about the death of retail but as long as these online shops like Jenson, etc can undercut brick-and-mortar by like 30-40% in many cases it’s hard to see me shelling out an extra thousand or whatever on a new gravel ride for the privilege of sitting on the bike in person first.
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Jan 8, 2024 14:46
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Is there much of a cycling community where you live? A simple alternative is to find someone with a bike the approximate size you want and ask to take it for a spin (Unfortunately 2013 was before Stack/Reach became the standard measurements, and to work them out for your bike from the manufacturer table would be a bit of a hassle - doing it via tape measure in person is probably the best bet to get an approximate measure to compare with something new) MrL_JaKiri fucked around with this message at 15:08 on Jan 8, 2024 |
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Jan 8, 2024 15:03
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trilobite terror posted:WTF. I don't want to go to a shop. I want to save money. trilobite terror posted:Say what you will about the death of retail but as long as these online shops like Jenson, etc can undercut brick-and-mortar by like 30-40% in many cases it’s hard to see me shelling out an extra thousand or whatever on a new gravel ride for the privilege of sitting on the bike in person first. Buying a bike that doesn't fit you is going to be the opposite of saving money. edit; my first couple of road bikes were used and, it turned out, too large for me. Was much happier after I got a bike fit and realized I should be on a smaller frame. dema fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Jan 8, 2024 |
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Jan 8, 2024 21:41
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why not consider buying twitter instead 
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Jan 9, 2024 10:18
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corona familiar posted:why not consider buying twitter instead Are there nice-looking single-speed bikes like this on Ali?
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Jan 9, 2024 12:11
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corona familiar posted:why not consider buying twitter instead Just wait a year and it will be valued at less than one third of that. 
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Jan 9, 2024 12:16
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Helluva posted:Are there nice-looking single-speed bikes like this on Ali? Any bike can be a single speed bike
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Jan 9, 2024 18:14
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Slavvy posted:Any bike can be a single speed bike  
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Jan 9, 2024 18:48
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Direct leg power is even more pure and elegant than even one gear Time to commission a CF velocipede
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Jan 9, 2024 18:58
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Does anyone have e-road bikes they are particularly a fan of? I tried renting one recently while traveling and having a knee flare up, and it was really nice still being able to bike without pain even when my joints are unhappy. Considering looking into one for home since it seems like the road to full joint recovery is going to be pretty long. Previously I was thinking about upgrading my road bike, but it seems a bit dumb to upgrade to a bike I often won’t be able to ride if my knee is hosed. The rental was an Orbea Gain, but I think I’d maybe prefer mid drive/something which goes slightly larger in size? Unsure. I liked the Grail:ON in general and its sizing goes big enough, but the e-version still has their proprietary handlebar setup which I’m not super jazzed about. I like my bottom of the line non e-bike Domane a lot, but the e-version both seems a bit expensive for what it offers, and only goes up to 60cm, which would be a little bit small for me. So basically curious what else might be out there. It also seems like some offer the option of taking out the battery/motor and using it as a regular bike, which in concept seems good for my case where sometimes I’m okay to bike normally and sometimes I’m not, but I’m not clear if this is more than just a gimmick- ie is it really removing enough weight that it makes sense?
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Jan 10, 2024 02:00
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kimbo305 posted:Could buy a set of each for cheaper Ordered some flat bar versions from Amazon because gift card, reward points, and the promise of getting them here before Saturday, which will be a dry day with temperatures in the 20s F (-7° - -1° C). Well, the high will be 21° (-6° C), anyway. I've ridden in temps that cold. Time to see if my winter kit, some base layers, my serious balaclava (with holes and a slit that allow me to breathe through my nose and mouth), some gloves, and these cheap poagies, can keep me just barely on the right side of miserable so I can take in the beauty that is the Mississippi River on a cold and bleak day. If they work out, I'll think about getting the road bike version, available only on eBay for some reason.
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Jan 10, 2024 03:42
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One more tip-- depending on your controls and cabling configuration, you might have small gaps at the end of the pogies. The leading edge, where cold air can seep in. I usually stuff these gaps with paper towel patches until they're sealed enough.
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Jan 10, 2024 04:01
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tildes posted:Does anyone have e-road bikes they are particularly a fan of? I tried renting one recently while traveling and having a knee flare up, and it was really nice still being able to bike without pain even when my joints are unhappy. Considering looking into one for home since it seems like the road to full joint recovery is going to be pretty long. Previously I was thinking about upgrading my road bike, but it seems a bit dumb to upgrade to a bike I often won’t be able to ride if my knee is hosed. I have a Specialized Creo Alloy as my commuter road bike and frankly it is the most amount of really fast fun. It's "cheap" for a e-Road (cheap being relative, it's still a lot of money), 250w mid drive with a 320wh battery tha tin ECO mode I can get close to 140kms out of, 90kms in Trail mode so a pretty decent ride. Depending where you are it'll be restricted to 25/32/45 kph. I de-restricted mine (The range quoted is de-restricted, so restricted likely you will see more range) so it's reeeeeeaaaaal quick if I want it to be, I tend to cruise at about 30kph and be happy with it. Also it rides very very well with the motor off, I do not feel the need to want a removable battery to lighten it it's perfectly fine just to pedal yourself. Also cant say it enough that the Creo is just such a drat fun thing to ride. While I'd\ recommend a Creo, I'd say what you are looking for in a e-Road you can compare to what the Creo offers an go from there to whatever other brand you prefer - mid drive, 300-400wh battery, 200-300w motor, about 12-14 kgs. Mine is set up for road but change tyres it'll handle gravel perfectly well and will fit some good sized wheels under it.
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Jan 10, 2024 08:23
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After I dropped the baby off at daycare I was riding home and a dip poo poo with a rolling suitcase stepped out in front of me on the cargo bike without looking and I should have let the intrusive thoughts take over and just obliterated him.
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Jan 10, 2024 18:44
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:I have a Specialized Creo Alloy as my commuter road bike and frankly it is the most amount of really fast fun. It's "cheap" for a e-Road (cheap being relative, it's still a lot of money), 250w mid drive with a 320wh battery tha tin ECO mode I can get close to 140kms out of, 90kms in Trail mode so a pretty decent ride. Depending where you are it'll be restricted to 25/32/45 kph. I de-restricted mine (The range quoted is de-restricted, so restricted likely you will see more range) so it's reeeeeeaaaaal quick if I want it to be, I tend to cruise at about 30kph and be happy with it. Also it rides very very well with the motor off, I do not feel the need to want a removable battery to lighten it it's perfectly fine just to pedal yourself. Also cant say it enough that the Creo is just such a drat fun thing to ride. This all sounds really nice, definitely jumps it up there on my list. I’ll definitely take one for a test ride!
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Jan 12, 2024 03:01
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kimbo305 posted:One more tip-- depending on your controls and cabling configuration, you might have small gaps at the end of the pogies. The leading edge, where cold air can seep in. I usually stuff these gaps with paper towel patches until they're sealed enough. That was a good tip. Unfortunately, I had so much crap to do Saturday that I didn't get a proper ride in, and that's a shame. I had a gig Saturday night (a lot of the crap I had to do was prep for that), and in the afternoon, the arctic blast or whatever settled in and the temperatures dropped from the balmy 20s to the mildly brisk 0s (F). We got a little snow, but it was the dry blowing snow. No ice. I don't know if my setup is good down to -7° F (-22° C). But, on a mile-long test ride up and down my neighborhood yesterday, I will say that the paper towel trick kept air from seeping in. I did have to do some minor adjustments to the poagies so they weren't putting too much pressure on my rear shifter cables, but once I had that dialed in, they worked really well even without gloves.
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Jan 14, 2024 16:28
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Grumpwagon posted:As a new trainer rider, I wanted to ask the people who put in tons of miles indoor: Do you find the mileage estimates accurate? So, a follow up to this that really demonstrates my lack of indoor experience. The problem: I was putting in more effort/cadence in than I was getting speed out The solution: Shift to a higher gear I just assumed that since the trainer compensated for differing flywheel speeds to make the effort the same, that it would also adjust/calculate/wildly guess what the speed would have been outdoor on the flat. I can now live my dream of going ~20 mph instead of ~10 mph for the same effort and cadence. Big numbers rejoice! My training is obviously better now because bigger number == better.
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Jan 17, 2024 17:50
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This goddamned refurb/rebuild of an 80s Rockhopper comp is burning through my wallet. 
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Jan 17, 2024 18:42
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Grumpwagon posted:So, a follow up to this that really demonstrates my lack of indoor experience. What device are you using to run trainerroad? Are you in erg mode or manual mode? I have the exact same setup and this isn’t a thing; you do not get double the recorded speed by being in a higher gear. Trainerroad uses virtual speed & distance. https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/introducing-virtual-speed-and-distance-for-strava-workouts/74273 so it is as you originally thought, just based on power. If you were not in erg mode, you must had something wrong or were just pedalling at an uncomfortably high cadence in too low a gear. You did a spin down calibration of the trainer right? This sort of thing is why trainer mileage / speed shouldn’t be allowed on Strava and shouldn’t count towards any of the Strava challenges like festive 500.
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Jan 17, 2024 21:26
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wooger posted:What device are you using to run trainerroad? Ok, this makes a lot more sense now. I was mostly just making that post to make fun of myself, so I didn't mention (and set it up after my first post, so forgot I didn't mention it, and that Crumps correctly pointed out the gearing issue then) the hacky workaround I'm actually using instead of the built in sync. I don't use Strava, I use RideWithGPS. TrainerRoad doesn't have syncing support for that, so I can either manually export/import rides (which also reported roughly the same low estimated speed/distance, on top of being a PITA), or connect my garmin to the trainer and use Garmin -> RWGPS sync. So rest assured I'm only messing with my own stats, not Strava's challenges. Per TR's recommendation, I am in erg mode (and yes, I did calibrate), and while I see from the TR setup page they recommend a lower gear, the reason for that is to avoid hitting a wattage floor, which I'm still well above. Also based on perceived effort, this new speed may be slightly overcounting the miles (and in fact have adjusted to a lower gear), I'd estimate an (flat) outdoor ride with this effort/cadence would be averaging 17-18 MPH, so even before the 2nd adjustment, I'm much closer to reality now than I was before. While I have very little indoor cycling experience, I ride outdoors a ton and can assure you there's no way the level of effort I was putting out matched ~10 miles for the sorts of rides I do around here. Anyway, thanks for the help and apologies for leaving out some pretty relevant information. I just set it up a while back and forgot the hackiness of my setup. I'm going to link my (old, disused) Strava account in addition to this and see what sort of speed/distance it thinks I am doing as an additional point of comparison. Grumpwagon fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jan 17, 2024 |
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Jan 17, 2024 22:02
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Er, why do you care if your trainer rides are synced to ride with GPS? I’d only care for grabbing and editing routes easily, and there aren’t any.
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Jan 17, 2024 22:10
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wooger posted:Er, why do you care if your trainer rides are synced to ride with GPS? I’d only care for grabbing and editing routes easily, and there aren’t any. A very reasonable question. In addition to the main reason I use it -- mapping routes -- it has Strava-light functionality, so I use it like how normal people use Strava to record rides/mileage so I have some idea how much I ride per month/year/etc. As to why I use it for that instead of just Strava, well, the local bike federation puts their maps out on RWGPS, so I used that first, then started using it to map my own routes, then figured as long as I was mapping I could record rides. I pay for it and don't want to pay for 2 services. If I were starting today I'd probably just use Strava, but here I am.
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Jan 17, 2024 22:20
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