|
lilljonas posted:Happens to me whenever I get on a no-painting funk for a while. You need to shake them like they own you money. Is there any sign of surface cracking? If so, the resin in the core isn't set and you should throw it away because the whole thing is compromised and will tear itself apart. To be honest, I'd be inclined to toss it away anyway. Whatever you choose, be very careful of that goo. Uncured resin is profoundly unpleasant and you want to avoid skin exposure like the plague. If it's third party and you don't print yourself then a little exposure isn't something to freak over, but it is cumulative and the end state is severe allergic reaction to just the fumes. If you chose to clean it up, get the correct sort of PPE. Different type of resin entirely, but you've reminded me of the Forge World Great Unclean One I bought. Because its core was made of improperly mixed resin that could never cure not only did it melt the paint off, to get to the paint it dissolved three 40x5+mm styrene rods I used to pin its base. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Jan 16, 2024 |
#
?
Jan 16, 2024 17:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 09:31 |
|
|
Southern Heel posted:Is there any more clarity on the fate of Vallejo after their acquisition? I moved to them exclusively when coming back to mini painting a few years ago They are going to be fine.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2024 17:14
|
|
|
I bought an AP 48 bottle set when i started painting again (after a 30 year hiatus) and they’re still fine. I’ve used every colour but there are some i like more (Oak) than others (Lava Orange). It was a good investment starting out, and I’ve never felt hampered by the quality of the paints. Compared to the Airfix enamels we painted with in the 1970s, everything today is amazing. Edit: also: get off my lawn, etc. Beffer fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Jan 16, 2024 |
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2024 21:41
|
|
|
Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Is there any sign of surface cracking? If so, the resin in the core isn't set and you should throw it away because the whole thing is compromised and will tear itself apart. To be honest, I'd be inclined to toss it away anyway. Whatever you choose, be very careful of that goo. Uncured resin is profoundly unpleasant and you want to avoid skin exposure like the plague. If it's third party and you don't print yourself then a little exposure isn't something to freak over, but it is cumulative and the end state is severe allergic reaction to just the fumes. I didn't print it myself. It's more like the "skin" has not cured fully, and has an oily, gooey texture which I assume is partially cured resin. I think I'll just toss it and consider it a loss.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2024 22:45
|
|
|
Beffer posted:I bought an AP 48 bottle set when i started painting again (after a 30 year hiatus) and they’re still fine. I’ve used every colour but there are some i like more (Oak) than others (Lava Orange). It was a good investment starting out, and I’ve never felt hampered by the quality of the paints. Compared to the Airfix enamels we painted with in the 1970s, everything today is amazing. thank you to whomever helped you type this into your computer. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2024 23:09
|
|
|
lilljonas posted:I didn't print it myself. It's more like the "skin" has not cured fully, and has an oily, gooey texture which I assume is partially cured resin. I think I'll just toss it and consider it a loss. leave them in sunlight after an alcohol wash. A lot of people don't fully cure their resin to make it survive shipping better, or because they are bad at it. I always leave my purchased prints in a window for ages. I paint so slow I can accept redoing anything.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2024 23:55
|
|
|
So, I have some of the Army Painter Speedpaints, the 1.0 versions that were prone to reactivation after drying. I'd tried all the other suggestions people made to prevent that: mix some Speedpaints medium into your regular paint, mix some Contrast Medium into the Speedpaint, let it dry for absolute ages, etc. etc., and nothing seemed to work. The other day I was painting some faces on some minis, and on a whim I decided to try the Speedpaints out, but instead of using them straight from the bottle, I figured I'd try mixing in some of the Vallejo Xpress medium (since I have that and a bunch of the Vallejo Xpress colors as well) and see if that made any difference. I still have to do some more experimentation, but so far none of the faces I'd painted reactivated, either by painting over them with regular paint or painting varnish over them (as I'd mentioned a few times ITT, I experienced the original Speedpaints reactivating all the time when I varnished 'em, regardless of whether it was by regular brush, airbrush, or rattlecan). Again, no super conclusive evidence as of yet, since it's only a small area on some minis I'd painted, but I'll try the Speedpaint/Xpress Color medium mix out on some bigger surfaces or perhaps even a full mini or two when I get a chance, and I'll post an update. Figured I'd mention it to anyone else who might have the original Speedpaints but never uses them because of the reactivation issues.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2024 04:51
|
|
|
So, I'd never really known what you clowns were talking about with respect to licking your brushes. Yesterday I was working on some 'nid shells, and my size 2 brush was fluffing a bit so I gave it a little lick, and gently caress if it didn't make such a nice stable belly and pointy point. So every few rinses I'd end up shoving it in my mouth to get the point/belly nice and also it had a very faint but not terrible taste. ye gods what hath i wrought
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2024 09:52
|
|
|
Prawned posted:So, I'd never really known what you clowns were talking about with respect to licking your brushes. This is how you get 'Nid juice in your mouth I hope you know that
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2024 10:10
|
|
|
  Getting back into Warhammer 40k. Last collected an army back in 3rd edition. Painted the first 4 sisters for my army and if I keep up this pace, with a little bit of napkin math it'll only take me over 1000 hours of painting to get to 2000 points! I'm sure I'll get faster at painting power armour white though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2024 10:47
|
|
|
drat nice! My only suggestion would be to dirty up the marble around the crispy heretic with a dry stippling and drybrush the corpse with some medium and light greys
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2024 10:56
|
|
|
KongGeorgeVII posted:
Very cool! I like what you did with the white armor
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2024 11:03
|
|
|
KongGeorgeVII posted:
All of these sisters are brilliant but that wood on the back of the shrine is amazing! I finished up this feller last night     I was brave enough this time to do the flames  Edit: oh man now I just noticed I missed the tubing on his inner elbows! 
Shoehead fucked around with this message at 11:38 on Jan 17, 2024 |
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2024 11:33
|
|
|
Yeast posted:Welcome to the Pro Acryl cult. Please no, my custom shelves are literally full lol
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2024 14:39
|
|
|
Gravitas Shortfall posted:You're too close to the work.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2024 18:52
|
|
|
That Fanatic paint set is looking very nice, and almost too tempting since I'm spending 10% of my painting time complaining about the Citadel containers.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2024 20:24
|
|
|
Every time I watch a new Army Painter video about fanatic I get that little bit closer to preordering the complete set. I absolutely do not need it. But the hobbyist who dies with the most paints wins, so 
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2024 22:10
|
|
|
I just a few months ago bought the complete Speedpaint 2.0 line, they can't keep doing this to me (But it's me, the mark who solely paints with Speedpaints now)
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2024 23:02
|
|
|
AP fanatic sounds like it's a real improvement over their old warpaints line but there's like five brands all in the same ballpark for quality and price, and most of them don't require you to drop $200 on a preorder. idk why everyone's so het up about a refresh of the "we have goblin green at home" brand when VGC and AK3rd and ProAcryl are all right there already
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 00:11
|
|
|
Paint, like miniatures exists to buy and own.Yeast posted:But the hobbyist who dies with the most paints wins, so
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 00:17
|
|
|
Cease to Hope posted:AP fanatic sounds like it's a real improvement over their old warpaints line but there's like five brands all in the same ballpark for quality and price, and most of them don't require you to drop $200 on a preorder. idk why everyone's so het up about a refresh of the "we have goblin green at home" brand when VGC and AK3rd and ProAcryl are all right there already Because I started using them first and I have yet to find a good match for Greenskin and I’ve got like 1700 points of Salamanders to paint in my current list, plus some other stuff. I’m hoping TTC Wave 2 has a good one but I’m not holding my breath.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 00:58
|
|
|
Cease to Hope posted:AP fanatic sounds like it's a real improvement over their old warpaints line but there's like five brands all in the same ballpark for quality and price, and most of them don't require you to drop $200 on a preorder. idk why everyone's so het up about a refresh of the "we have goblin green at home" brand when VGC and AK3rd and ProAcryl are all right there already I think part of the appeal is that these paints will be as good or potentially better than the ones listed, with some features or qualities that the others do not have, such as a larger range, better labeling, better cost, etc... Certainly worth a shot. I was never a big fan of Vallejo's game color range, but their model colors are quite good. I don't think AK or Pro Acryl are that great either, neither of them are as good as Vallejo or Citadel. Getting the Fanatic paint set for 2.50 a paint seems like a good deal when the ProAcryl 25 paint starter bundles is 100 bucks.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 00:59
|
|
|
Cease to Hope posted:idk why everyone's so het up about a refresh of the "we have goblin green at home" brand when VGC and AK3rd and ProAcryl are all right there already I currently own the full ProAcryl line, and I love it- but I’m also aware that it’s got a lot of holes in it, and mixing is part and parcel of the range- if you’re army painting (hah) and enjoy a more formulaic, repeatable and predictable approach, Fantatic makes a lot of sense.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 01:18
|
|
|
I appreciate that they're satin finish, given that Citadel is too. I use Citadel Contrast paints, and so having a satin regular paint to go with it (that isn't Citadel) would be nice. Currently I use almost all Pro Acryl, but I could imagine picking up the Fanatic full set if there's a decent sale on it this autumn. I spend way too much brain bandwidth on worrying over the exact right set of shade and highlight colors for my army paint schemes, so having the matched... sextads? ... be at the core of the design is really appealing to me.Yeast posted:I currently own the full ProAcryl line, and I love it- but I’m also aware that it’s got a lot of holes in it, and mixing is part and parcel of the range- if you’re army painting (hah) and enjoy a more formulaic, repeatable and predictable approach, Fantatic makes a lot of sense. Yes, this is exactly where I'm at. I have the full Pro Acryl line and love it, but the holes are there. Mixing is fine when I'm painting a small project, but if I'm doing a whole army I'd prefer to avoid it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 01:19
|
|
|
I laughed at those people that purchased one of those electric auto-mixers, but here I am shaking a contrast paint for 10 minutes without making a dent to the weird white stuff on the bottom of the container.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 02:04
|
|
|
Cardboard Fox posted:I laughed at those people that purchased one of those electric auto-mixers, but here I am shaking a contrast paint for 10 minutes without making a dent to the weird white stuff on the bottom of the container. I have one of those cheap electric auto mixers and it rocks. I think I paid $7 for it off Amazon.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 02:05
|
|
|
Cardboard Fox posted:I laughed at those people that purchased one of those electric auto-mixers, but here I am shaking a contrast paint for 10 minutes without making a dent to the weird white stuff on the bottom of the container. They definitely come in handy; I dug out some AP oranges and greens I hadn't used in forever for a project, and after 2-3 mins on the vortex mixer they're coming out even better than I'd hoped.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 02:26
|
|
|
Won't be the MOST last minute models for LVO but still (xpost from HH thread).Major Spag posted:Mere hours before the LVO pilgrimage, something managed to get done:
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 02:29
|
|
|
The vortex mixer is up there with one of the most useful hobby tools around. If you paint with Scale75 a lot like I do, it’s invaluable.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 02:30
|
|
|
Yeast posted:Welcome to the Pro Acryl cult. thanks thread, im now pro-crylled
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 02:39
|
|
|
These orcs don't fit on the bases I have aaa 
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 04:42
|
|
|
Anyone have experience taking a vortex mixer apart to fiddle with it? Mine has a little cup under the rubber that I assume is sized for a test tube. It works well with an upside-down paint bottle or citadel pot, but trying to put them in right-side-up doesn't quite line up and often I have to fiddle to get a good connection on whatever switch activates the drat thing.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 04:52
|
|
|
Tried to use a contrast paint for recess shading/lining, didn't work nearly as well as I would've liked. A bit too difficult to control it and not get it staining everything besides just the recess.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 06:26
|
|
|
A pretty nice pickup with vortex mixers is a cheap bag of glass aquarium gravel. Walmart sells it for less than $10 USD, you'll have enough to last you a lifetime, and won't have to worry about any sort of reaction with the paint. It's no fun to find out that the "stainless steel" mixing balls in your paint weren't also "rustless" as well, and now your half-bottle of paint has a bunch of rust flakes in it loving it up to the point of uselessness. Lostconfused posted:Tried to use a contrast paint for recess shading/lining, didn't work nearly as well as I would've liked. It's doable, but you gotta have thinned the contrast down, and use it like a pin wash and let capillary action do its thing, more than using it like a regular wash. Gloss varnishing the area you want to line helps the process work, too. Gunpla does similar things, and you could do worse than to find their tutorials on how to go about it and make it work, only substituting thinned contrast for whatever they use.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 07:43
|
|
|
This is the mixer I use. Works extremely well, much better than the ones that rely on a rubber strap and then just wiggle a bit. We cut a few bits of foam to fit different bottle sizes. And I agree with putting a glass bead or something in as an agitator. It takes it from great to fantastic.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 08:00
|
|
|
Panel lining Bandai model kits is a lot easier because you're either doing it over bare plastic or varnish and can easily clean up the spillover with some alcohol.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 12:59
|
|
|
Just use oils for panel lining so you can clean it up!
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 13:00
|
|
|
On that note, has anyone used AK's Wargame range of washes? I've never used non-acrylic washes before and I'm considering picking up the brown and dark washes along with their thinner to get started.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 13:57
|
|
|
Re: agitators, I think at this point everyone except GW includes a mixing ball. I know Army Painter and Two Thin Coats do, for sure, and I think the revamped Game Color paints have them as well.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 14:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 09:31 |
|
|
MeinPanzer posted:On that note, has anyone used AK's Wargame range of washes? I've never used non-acrylic washes before and I'm considering picking up the brown and dark washes along with their thinner to get started. Not specifically the "wargame" ones, but their normal enamel washes were absolute game changers for me and completely changed my painting style. Don't buy the thinner though; it's hobby taxed as hell and you can just go get some turpenoid from a hobby/craft store or hardware store and pay the same price for a gallon of it. Here's some pics of using their stuff on my lil dudes:    
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2024 16:22
|
|
