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BizarroAzrael posted:Huh, they're saying the DA Update has 20 datasheets, they currently have 18, with Deathwing Command Squads going and Companions coming in, and I assume the Ravenwing Talonmaster going, where are they getting more new units from? Or is that 20 physical cards in the datasheet pack which will include ones for the Detachment rules, so it's more like 17 datasheets plus those? I wonder if the Black Knights will get a similar treatment to kits like Custodes, where some models are split out into separate character datasheets; i.e. apothecary, ancient, etc.
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Jan 18, 2024 10:54
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xtothez posted:I wonder if the Black Knights will get a similar treatment to kits like Custodes, where some models are split out into separate character datasheets; i.e. apothecary, ancient, etc. From an article earlier in the week: GW posted:The Company of Hunters has a nasty selection of Enhancements which come in extra-handy now that the Ravenwing Command Squad’s Champion has gained the CHARACTER keyword, allowing the whole unit to attach to your Outriders or Ravenwing Black Knights to form a packed-out super squad. ChrisAsmadi fucked around with this message at 11:54 on Jan 18, 2024 |
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Jan 18, 2024 11:44
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https://www.warhammer-community.com/2024/01/18/crusade-pariah-nexus-unlock-upgrades-and-master-a-campaign/ Have a preview of the new traits and rules of the upcoming Crusade book.
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Jan 18, 2024 14:24
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Athas posted:5 man squad of Allarus Custodes is 350 points, for when you want an army of terminators but don't want to paint too much. Almost certain I'd spend way less time painting that deathwing color scheme than whatever the hell I'm doing with my custodes.
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Jan 18, 2024 15:49
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Is there a new mission deck that goes with the new Pariah Nexus campaign?
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Jan 18, 2024 15:52
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Lostconfused posted:Almost certain I'd spend way less time painting that deathwing color scheme than whatever the hell I'm doing with my custodes. Deathwing are the colour of ivory; the most dire of painting experiences. Custodes look tolerable with a metallic colour, a shade, and a drybrush. (At least I hope mine do.)
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Jan 18, 2024 17:54
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Athas posted:Deathwing are the colour of ivory; the most dire of painting experiences.  Bone is one of the easiest things to paint, and even easier with Contrast paints.
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Jan 18, 2024 17:57
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The most dire of painting experiences is white if nobody told you that youre supposed to use a super-light grey instead
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Jan 18, 2024 18:00
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Super Waffle posted:Is there a new mission deck that goes with the new Pariah Nexus campaign? I'd assume that the next deck comes out this summer, so maybe an announcement during Adepticon?
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Jan 18, 2024 18:04
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I find painting pretty dire overall. I hate the greenish yellow people are calling bone lately. Just get out the Skeleton Horde.
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Jan 18, 2024 19:01
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:
What sorcery do I need? I've been painting various Citadel bone colours (and off whites), and I get pretty bad coverage. Paints like Wraithbone also have a bad habit of clumping, so I (a bad painter) tend to end up with a somewhat rough texture. That's not so bad for my current use of bone colouring, but I think it would look bad on terminator plate.
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Jan 18, 2024 19:05
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One thing I've discovered is that a proper stirring stick will do wonders in many cases where a shake won't do. Found a glass rod somewhere and it's been my go to stirring stick that I can just wipe off when done.
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Jan 18, 2024 19:07
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I thought screaming skull made for super good bone. Great coverage and looked greay without much fuss
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Jan 18, 2024 19:09
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Athas posted:What sorcery do I need? I've been painting various Citadel bone colours (and off whites), and I get pretty bad coverage. Paints like Wraithbone also have a bad habit of clumping, so I (a bad painter) tend to end up with a somewhat rough texture. That's not so bad for my current use of bone colouring, but I think it would look bad on terminator plate. Prime any off white Slather Skeleton Horde on it like barbeque sauce Drybrush on a off-white Done
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Jan 18, 2024 19:48
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Athas posted:Deathwing are the colour of ivory; the most dire of painting experiences. Custodes look tolerable with a metallic colour, a shade, and a drybrush. (At least I hope mine do.) Nah, that would be bright orange. If it even gets a whiff of a cool tone in a layer underneath it prepare to put layer after layer on it.
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Jan 18, 2024 20:20
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Cooked Auto posted:One thing I've discovered is that a proper stirring stick will do wonders in many cases where a shake won't do. Found a glass rod somewhere and it's been my go to stirring stick that I can just wipe off when done. I have pretty good luck with just shaking (or using my paint vibrator) with a hematite bead inside the dropper bottle. Don't use bearings or steel beads, I lost some good paints that way.
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Jan 18, 2024 20:32
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Yeah, I got a whole bunch from my brother and dropped some in without thinking. Took me a while notice the stains at the bottom.  Haven't lost any yet, but nowadays they're just used for weights when I need to submerge something large in paint stripper.
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Jan 18, 2024 20:37
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If you prime dessert yellow, then zenithal white from top down, you can just drench it with agrax and then paint highlights. It's 70% spray cans and dunking.
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Jan 18, 2024 20:45
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I remember when "dipping" first came about; it was so controversial. Prime white, dunk entire model into a can of Minwax wood stain, shake off and let dry. This was mostly used for Tyranids as the colors and organic shapes lent itself to the process. A LOT of people considered this cheating, and would call out armies that looked Dipped as if they were calling out counterfeit models (another thing no one cares about these days!). Some even called for Dipped armies to be banned from tournaments, its was crazy.
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Jan 18, 2024 20:51
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If you didn't want to get mad about painting an army should've picked an easy army to paint, haters stay mad. Which is why I picked an easy army to paint with a really difficult color scheme, best of both worlds 
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Jan 18, 2024 20:53
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Super Waffle posted:I remember when "dipping" first came about; it was so controversial. Prime white, dunk entire model into a can of Minwax wood stain, shake off and let dry. This was mostly used for Tyranids as the colors and organic shapes lent itself to the process. A LOT of people considered this cheating, and would call out armies that looked Dipped as if they were calling out counterfeit models (another thing no one cares about these days!). Some even called for Dipped armies to be banned from tournaments, its was crazy. Time is a flat circle as they say.
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Jan 18, 2024 20:59
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My bone style I did with my Darkest Dungeon guys is to prime black, sloppy dry brush an off-white, and then hit it with the GW skeleton hoard contrast. Ends up with a pretty cool scratchy effect.
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Jan 18, 2024 21:21
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Athas posted:What sorcery do I need? I've been painting various Citadel bone colours (and off whites), and I get pretty bad coverage. Paints like Wraithbone also have a bad habit of clumping, so I (a bad painter) tend to end up with a somewhat rough texture. That's not so bad for my current use of bone colouring, but I think it would look bad on terminator plate. Spray prime bone/offwhite, wash or contrast sepia, making sure it doesn't pool on flat surfaces. Highlight/touch up raised and flat areas with base colour, then mix in increasing amounts of white for further highlights. Do not use any Citadel whites, they suck. My go to is Vallejo Model Color White Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Jan 18, 2024 |
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Jan 18, 2024 21:26
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gonna echo previous poster on vallejo white. sepia tone with whatever flow poo poo i used to use. (ill look) highlight from bone and add white in increments for highlights. also. (god im giving this away for free) toothbrush dipped in thinned but scarlet red makes for some great blood spatter. just run your thumb along it close to the model.
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Jan 18, 2024 21:34
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I use vallejo model sky grey for the base white and it works really well i think
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Jan 18, 2024 21:37
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You can just mix in whatever color/pigment you want into vallejo white primer I assume.
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Jan 18, 2024 21:39
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Lostconfused posted:If you didn't want to get mad about painting an army should've picked an easy army to paint, haters stay mad. Nah your scheme isn't hard mode yet. There's a guy on the Custodes Facebook page that has more or less your exact colours (cream and gold) except he's gone and done tribal patterns and celtic knots in freehand all over in blue.
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Jan 18, 2024 22:15
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I have recently found that citadel Corax White thinned with white ink works pretty well for me, good coverage and smooth application
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Jan 18, 2024 22:20
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Z the IVth posted:Nah your scheme isn't hard mode yet. There's a guy on the Custodes Facebook page that has more or less your exact colours (cream and gold) except he's gone and done tribal patterns and celtic knots in freehand all over in blue. You can't just say stuff like this without posting pics!
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Jan 18, 2024 22:27
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Super Waffle posted:I have recently found that citadel Corax White thinned with white ink works pretty well for me, good coverage and smooth application Yeah I think Corax is their best "white" formulation for brush application, although you need to work around it being on the grey side.
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Jan 18, 2024 22:28
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I bought the Vallejo Grey primer on bottle, because a project I was going to do required "Premium Grey" that I couldn't find. Too cold anyway for rattlecan priming. It turned out to be terrible with awful coverage, to the point that Grey Seer on pot was a better option. so it's not just GW that has poor greys.
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Jan 18, 2024 22:32
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The Demilich posted:You can't just say stuff like this without posting pics! Custardworkshop on insta https://www.instagram.com/p/CsORmmPSxTc/?igsh=NjZiM2M3MzIxNA==
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Jan 18, 2024 22:39
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Cooked Auto posted:I bought the Vallejo Grey primer on bottle, because a project I was going to do required "Premium Grey" that I couldn't find. Too cold anyway for rattlecan priming. I think most of the Vallejo primers are intended for airbrush application with brush-on being a "possibility". I use Vallejo in lieu of Grey Seer and it works great, albeit through the airbrush.
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Jan 18, 2024 23:11
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Maybe, but I also have one of the Earth Green ones as well and there was no coverage issue there. Also I figured they already had airbrush primers in their Air line, instead of just surface primer.
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Jan 18, 2024 23:19
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The vallejo grey primer is too thin for brushing on, but the black primer is good. And the model color greys (not primer) are good too
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Jan 18, 2024 23:21
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Cooked Auto posted:I bought the Vallejo Grey primer on bottle, because a project I was going to do required "Premium Grey" that I couldn't find. Too cold anyway for rattlecan priming. You don't need good (colour) coverage for primer - It's meant to be painted on top of, not as a basecoat; if you're trying to get an even coat of brush on primer you've probably put too much on.
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Jan 18, 2024 23:41
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If it looks absolutely splotchy and awful and watery but i did get it everywhere, then I am primed ?
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Jan 18, 2024 23:47
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I really like Grey Seer, I've been using it in spray and brush on form for my Epic scale World Eaters, and it's a really nice almost-white.
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Jan 18, 2024 23:48
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Vallejo grey I sprayed on this morning
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Jan 18, 2024 23:51
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OctaMurk posted:If it looks absolutely splotchy and awful and watery but i did get it everywhere, then I am primed ? Yeah look if it's on the whole model you're primed. The primer is only there to give the surface something for your paint to grab onto (called tooth if you ever see that term around). As long as you don't have grey plastic showing your next coat should hold onto the mini. You often need to mess around with using new products so if you aren't confident in it do another test mini or just smash on some paint and see how it goes. For my money the best primer with minimum effort/cash is Tamiya spray.
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Jan 18, 2024 23:54
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