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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

that's what I was thinking hah

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Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


MJP posted:

Should I aim for a thicker mix on my next attempt or stay at milky thickness?
Thicker probably wouldn't hurt? And leaving it on longer. But some grain fillers can be a real pain to get off the surface if left on too long.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

HappyHippo posted:

Seems kind of a shame to paint over mahogany.

I didn't really have much of a choice in the matter. I could only find one place that sold a kit consisting of a Firebird body with a bolt-on neck that actually had it in stock and wasn't $350+. I'm still a bit of a noob so I didn't want to go too high-end for this in terms of spend.

FWIW this guitar kit is half for ergonomics reasons (I find it's way easier for me to get my arm around a Firebird's lower bout since it protrudes upwards more) and half because I want a guitar that looks like this but doesn't cost $4500 (and also has a bolt-on neck).


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Thicker probably wouldn't hurt? And leaving it on longer. But some grain fillers can be a real pain to get off the surface if left on too long.

Leave it on longer before squeegeeing excess or sanding?

I'd left it overnight before sanding, not sure if that's too long or not long enough.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


MJP posted:

I didn't really have much of a choice in the matter. I could only find one place that sold a kit consisting of a Firebird body with a bolt-on neck that actually had it in stock and wasn't $350+. I'm still a bit of a noob so I didn't want to go too high-end for this in terms of spend.

FWIW this guitar kit is half for ergonomics reasons (I find it's way easier for me to get my arm around a Firebird's lower bout since it protrudes upwards more) and half because I want a guitar that looks like this but doesn't cost $4500 (and also has a bolt-on neck).

Leave it on longer before squeegeeing excess or sanding?

I'd left it overnight before sanding, not sure if that's too long or not long enough.
Leave it on longer before squeegeeing the excess. And plenty of mahogany is pretty boring looking so don't feel bad about painting it.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Made an insert for my bandsaw. Was a good exercise thicknessing that piece with handplanes. Cherry with spray lacquer.


Before:


Second project is a new coat rack for the iron railing in the entryway. Don't have a closet (split level) so that railing becomes a dumping ground for jackets. Cherry with tried and true BLO.


I cut the hooks out on my cnc and used the domino to mount them. Was good practice laying out the dominos perpendicular to the edge of the long board and using the domino on small parts.

NomNomNom fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Jan 17, 2024

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer
What cnc do you have?

I don't have room for even the smallest one but I'm still curious what's reasonable for a home user to have these days.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


NomNomNom posted:


I cut the hooks out on my cnc and used the domino to mount them. Was good practice laying out the dominos perpendicular to the edge of the long board and using the domino on small parts.


The color of that cherry board is extremely nice. What was your domino layout trick? Laying them out perpendicular to a flat face like in the middle of a sheet of plywood is something I struggle with doing accurately and repeatably without building a jig of some sort.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

The color of that cherry board is extremely nice. What was your domino layout trick? Laying them out perpendicular to a flat face like in the middle of a sheet of plywood is something I struggle with doing accurately and repeatably without building a jig of some sort.

No tricks, it sucked! I tried aligning to pencil marked cross hairs and a few wandered off a degree or two. If it really mattered for an application I'd clamp a square to the edge.

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

What cnc do you have?

I don't have room for even the smallest one but I'm still curious what's reasonable for a home user to have these days.

I built a lowrider cnc from V1 Engineering. It's largely 3d printed. Mine is the previous version (2.0) but I'm printing the parts now to upgrade.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

NomNomNom posted:

I built a lowrider cnc from V1 Engineering. It's largely 3d printed. Mine is the previous version (2.0) but I'm printing the parts now to upgrade.



I'm morbidly curious. I built a Voron 2.4 and hated the experience of tweaking, futzing, inferring, etc. in the build and calibration/tweaking/tuning. How onerous is the tweaking/futzing/inferring in building a CNC machine?

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I have new nemesis, the people selling montessori poo poo made out of Baltic Birch on Etsy. I have choose between make them myself or letting my wife buy them.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

If you make them yourself you too can sell urethaned shapes on Etsy for $400

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

MJP posted:

I'm morbidly curious. I built a Voron 2.4 and hated the experience of tweaking, futzing, inferring, etc. in the build and calibration/tweaking/tuning. How onerous is the tweaking/futzing/inferring in building a CNC machine?

Really not that bad as long you have realistic notions of what a cnc this size and price can accomplish. It's not fast, but I can achieve tolerances of about 0.5mm

They have an active forum which is great help for troubleshooting. The actual work flow involved with cnc is somewhat cumbersome and more obtuse than slicing files for 3d printing, I'd say the learning curve there is the hardest part.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

If you make them yourself you too can sell urethaned shapes on Etsy for $400

I was going to say something about how unrealistic this is, but then I saw the Montessori, which yeah, checks out.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

My sister works at a Montessori school. They were using these absolutely dire continent shapes as part of one of the kid activities, like they were just misshapen blobs, so she asked me to make new ones. I made reasonably accurate ones out of quarter inch baltic birch, using the scroll saw and templates I printed off that were based on actual continent outlines I made from google earth with the view centered on each continent.

I uh, forgot to take pictures lol. But she says they're using them as the masters to make the construction paper versions the kids use, and apparently they just keep using them for decades given the state the old ones were in, so hopefully a couple thousand kids will learn the actual shapes of the continents now.

Anyway yeah by all means make Montessori stuff. There's a thriving market for it and I doubt most of it is copyrighted or anything.

Schiavona
Oct 8, 2008

Calidus posted:

I have new nemesis, the people selling montessori poo poo made out of Baltic Birch on Etsy. I have choose between make them myself or letting my wife buy them.

Our Lovevery gym showed up and not only is it unfinished Baltic birch, but the fit and finish isn’t even that great.

My wife said she wanted a small bookcase for baby toys, so at least it’ll be easy to make something that matches!

Toast
Dec 7, 2002

GoonsWithSpoons.com :chef:Generalissimo:chef:

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

What cnc do you have?

I don't have room for even the smallest one but I'm still curious what's reasonable for a home user to have these days.

I bought a baby one a year ago and still haven't got it successfully zero'd in. That said that's 3/4 on me.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Schiavona posted:

Our Lovevery gym showed up and not only is it unfinished Baltic birch, but the fit and finish isn’t even that great.

My wife said she wanted a small bookcase for baby toys, so at least it’ll be easy to make something that matches!

Their toy shelf with hidden storage in the back is a rather cool idea. I am dreading all the sanding because if baby gets a splitter I am dead.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Sir Sidney Poitier posted:

That's really irresponsible and could cause issues with the wastewater systems.

Dumping it in the river directly would be better.
Alright, but if DNR catches me, I'm taking you down with me.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

MJP posted:

I'm morbidly curious. I built a Voron 2.4 and hated the experience of tweaking, futzing, inferring, etc. in the build and calibration/tweaking/tuning. How onerous is the tweaking/futzing/inferring in building a CNC machine?

With as many guides and how good the manual is for a voron (albeit 2.4 is one of the more complex ones to build)... If you had so many issues you're gonna be having issues with an MPCNC.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I'm not quite sure where exactly to post this, I've got a kitchen countertop set of cabinets, in my apartment, and you open the cabinet doors such as the ones under the sink, and there's no segmented areas within the cabinets. There's no box when you go to open the door, it's like an open floor plan. I can open a door, move my hand up inside the cabinet and then pull the drawer out above, if you understand what I'm trying to say.

The reason I'm asking is I'm trying to put door locks on these things, to keep the cats out, but there isn't wood there, where traditional child locks would go in order to lock the door. What would be the suggestion here? Some of these doors are single doors that open on the opposite side of the corner of the cabinet. These are fairly old cabinets

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

are you renting, so you shouldn't be damaging them? I'd suggest strong magnets and glue but I don't know if you want to be gluing magnets to your landlord's cabinets.

Some pictures might help with creative ideas here.

The answer probably isn't strictly speaking "woodworking" but there's handy folks here who can figure something out.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
gonna have to post pics of them cabinetz so we can see what we’re working with

HappyHippo
Nov 19, 2003
Do you have an Air Miles Card?
The cat's mat remover broke

So I made a new one


She approves


This was very fun! Used a scrap of ash. Coping saw for the main body; spokeshave, rasps, files and chisels for the shaping. Oh, and sanding, lots of sanding. Finished with 3 coats of BLO. There's something supremely satisfying about using a spokeshave.

Full build album here: https://imgur.com/a/nu1hv8I

HappyHippo fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jan 20, 2024

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
great work! I have a spokeshave but don't enjoy using it. Feels like it clogs every stroke.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

NomNomNom posted:

great work! I have a spokeshave but don't enjoy using it. Feels like it clogs every stroke.

sounds like you might have too much blade protruding

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



NomNomNom posted:

great work! I have a spokeshave but don't enjoy using it. Feels like it clogs every stroke.

Don't use a spoke shave on your cat.


My sister texted me a picture of a "book valet" she saw in the uncommon goods catalogue.




I figured I could make it better, or at least look a bit nicer.

She doesn't need a cup holder in bed, so I changed that to a qi charger, and then I added a channel to the side so she can lean her kindle against the "book" if she's not reading a paper book. Her glasses can go under the book.



The coin is a 50 cent proof from her birth year.
base is oak, pages are maple, book is purple heart. All natural wood finish except I flame finished the maple.

I did an epoxy pour for the decorative inlay on the front of the book, I don't like it too much, but it doesn't look awful. I just used a gold paint marker to make the spine.

Losing the big point does make it a little harder to balance the book if you're just starting or about to finish it, but it works even with a standard sized paper back.

AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Jan 20, 2024

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Redoing the plane till for my tool storage since I've acquired a few more. Spent way too much time getting this fit:

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

How would you go about milling end profiles like these in 3/4" stock? I have to make uhhhh a lot of em


That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


A Wizard of Goatse posted:

How would you go about milling end profiles like these in 3/4" stock? I have to make uhhhh a lot of em




Two different router table setups and fence distances perhaps?

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Shaper with power feeder.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


A Wizard of Goatse posted:

How would you go about milling end profiles like these in 3/4" stock? I have to make uhhhh a lot of em



Pretty standard cope and stick tooling on either a shaper or a router table. Use with a miter gauge or ideally make a coping sled to cut the endgrain.

e: if they have to match that exact profile, you can get custom knives ground for an insert shaper head. Someone I think makes some insert router tooling but I'm not sure.

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Jan 22, 2024

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Thanks, yeah the issue I'm having is finding a place that'll sell more than one or two very specific profiles you can stack onto a shaper bit like that, I need to match the original shape as closely as possible. Wouldn't be an issue at all if I could just mix-and-match a modular cove, rabbet, and a couple bearings on a shank like I'd assumed going in, but either I'm looking in all the wrong places or that's not a thing. I can find a guy to machine the tooling, but I was hoping to avoid that since I'm not investing in a startup I'm trying to repair a houseful of broken windows and getting hosed over every time I try to hire anybody to do anything I'm going insane

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Jan 22, 2024

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

Thanks, yeah the issue I'm having is finding a place that'll sell more than one or two very specific profiles you can stack onto a shaper bit like that, I need to match the original shape as closely as possible. Wouldn't be an issue at all if I could just mix-and-match a modular cove, rabbet, and a couple bearings on a shank like I'd assumed going in, but either I'm looking in all the wrong places or that's not a thing. I can find a guy to machine the tooling, but I was hoping to avoid that since I'm not investing in a startup I'm trying to repair a houseful of broken windows and getting screwed every time I hire anybody to do anything

Is there an architectural planing mill anywhere around? They’ll have a ton of profiles to order from.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


A Wizard of Goatse posted:

Thanks, yeah the issue I'm having is finding a place that'll sell more than one or two very specific profiles you can stack onto a shaper bit like that, I need to match the original shape as closely as possible. Wouldn't be an issue at all if I could just mix-and-match a modular cove, rabbet, and a couple bearings on a shank like I'd assumed going in, but either I'm looking in all the wrong places or that's not a thing. I can find a guy to machine the tooling, but I was hoping to avoid that since I'm not investing in a startup I'm trying to repair a houseful of broken windows and getting screwed every time I hire anybody to do anything
Not 100% sure because I haven't bought newer ones lately, but my old shop's cope and stick router bits were sort of modular like you describe. You could take the top profile off one bit and swap it out for a different profile.

You might look at these and poke around what profiles they come in.
https://www.cabinetmakerwarehouse.com/catalog/classical-reversible-stile-rail-router-bit-1-58-dia-x-1116-x-12-inch-shank/
https://www.cabinetmakerwarehouse.com/catalog/concave-in-stile-rail-router-bit-set-1-58-dia-x-1364-to-12-x-12-radius-x-12-inch-shank-set/

You'll definitely have better luck looking at more professional/industrial tooling manufacturers like Amana or CMT. Charles GG Schmidt will also make custom router bits which certainly won't be cheap but they will work. https://cggschmidt.com/products.php?cat=232

e: It's a pain but for a complex profile like a window mullion, you may be better off figuring out how to break down the profile into multiple operations or deconstruct it. On window muntin stock I usually have wound up running the moulding profile on the face, ripping that to thickness, cutting a groove in the back, and gluing a glazing bar into that groove rather than try to machine the rabbets into the back of the muntin. Saves material and it's theoretically a little bit stronger.

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Jan 22, 2024

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


I made my buddy a jewelry box for his wife. Lid is stone inlay



Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
Looks great, please share details on how you made the ring bars or whatever you call those things.

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


It's very simple. I bought them from aliexpress

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


I cut them apart to fit though, they're made of MDF trays w foam cylinders wrapped in fabric and poorly glued together. I reinforced them w some hot glue

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
Thanks, simple enough.

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A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Not 100% sure because I haven't bought newer ones lately, but my old shop's cope and stick router bits were sort of modular like you describe. You could take the top profile off one bit and swap it out for a different profile.

You might look at these and poke around what profiles they come in.
https://www.cabinetmakerwarehouse.com/catalog/classical-reversible-stile-rail-router-bit-1-58-dia-x-1116-x-12-inch-shank/
https://www.cabinetmakerwarehouse.com/catalog/concave-in-stile-rail-router-bit-set-1-58-dia-x-1364-to-12-x-12-radius-x-12-inch-shank-set/

You'll definitely have better luck looking at more professional/industrial tooling manufacturers like Amana or CMT. Charles GG Schmidt will also make custom router bits which certainly won't be cheap but they will work. https://cggschmidt.com/products.php?cat=232

e: It's a pain but for a complex profile like a window mullion, you may be better off figuring out how to break down the profile into multiple operations or deconstruct it. On window muntin stock I usually have wound up running the moulding profile on the face, ripping that to thickness, cutting a groove in the back, and gluing a glazing bar into that groove rather than try to machine the rabbets into the back of the muntin. Saves material and it's theoretically a little bit stronger.


Stultus Maximus posted:

Is there an architectural planing mill anywhere around? They’ll have a ton of profiles to order from.

Thanks yeah I'll have to keep shopping around and I've got a couple possible leads now. This whole thing is a loving hassle, tempted to put together a proposal to just buy a CNC machine so we can mill our own bits to spec

anyway here's Wonderwall

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Jan 22, 2024

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