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Admiral Bosch posted:Gang. I was thinking about picking up an Ultron 35 aspherical for mine but I decided to upgrade my collapsible soviet 50mm instead. Nice! I have been meaning to get a Canon 7 or P but can't really justify the expense right now. Even though I've already got a Jupiter 8 and a Canon 50mm 1.2 in LTM already that have been gathering dust since I sold my Bessa and switched to Fuji AF lenses on my mirrorless, I'd still probably pay extra for one that came with the 50 1.4, because I think it's probably the platonic ideal compromise on size/quality/cost. Let me know if you want to go out for a rangefinder shoot sometime! Am in Denver and just took delivery of a Mamiya Six (the cheap, older fixed lens one) I'd like to run a test roll through. I can develop a roll of 35mm for you if you've got any B&W, although my scanner is currently in need of repair.
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# ? Jan 18, 2024 23:30 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 07:22 |
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The Canon L1, VL and VI L are less well known and a lot cheaper than a 7 or P and every bit as good.
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# ? Jan 18, 2024 23:39 |
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how do y'all feel about the m42 mount lens ecosystem? I'm researching for my first slr and I've sort of narrowed it down to: fujica st801 (or similar), a spotmatic or some sort of praktica. I don't really own any lenses except f mount autofocus stuff for my crop sensor dslr. For m42 there seems to be plenty of cheap lenses, I'd probably just get a 50mm of some variety and there's a 28mm super takumar I'm really interested in, maybe eventually a zoom of some sort.
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# ? Jan 19, 2024 02:33 |
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M41, K Mount and Minolta SR are the 3 I like for cheap quality lenses. And out of the cameras you're interested in the Spotmatic would be the most well regarded. Most M42 cameras have stop down metering, if you want to meter while full open just based off aperture selection I'd get a Minolta SRT series (303 or 303b preferably but they're all good) and then you'll have access to that sweet sweet Minolta lens ecosystem.
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# ? Jan 19, 2024 02:44 |
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Megabound posted:M41, K Mount and Minolta SR are the 3 I like for cheap quality lenses. And out of the cameras you're interested in the Spotmatic would be the most well regarded. Most M42 cameras have stop down metering, if you want to meter while full open just based off aperture selection I'd get a Minolta SRT series (303 or 303b preferably but they're all good) and then you'll have access to that sweet sweet Minolta lens ecosystem. interesting, the srt range was actually what i was looking at first and kinda went off it because googling didnt really show too much love for the lenses! any particularly well regarded lenses to look for? thanks for always coming through with the wisdom, appreciate it. really easy to burn money on dumb stuff as a beginner.
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# ? Jan 19, 2024 03:10 |
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Minolta lenses extended all the way from the SR in 1958 to the MD in 2001, there's a tonne of great lenses. Basically any of the first party ones will be great but I have extra love for: 45mm f/2 MD 28mm f/3.5 MD 58mm f/1.4 MC 50mm f/1.7 MC or MD The differences are that SR (1958) lenses are not meter coupled so you're manually metering. MC (1966) is meter coupled and MD allows aperture priority on their later cameras and was introduced with the XD (1977). Coatings changed over the years but lens formulas stayed pretty much unchanged
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# ? Jan 19, 2024 03:29 |
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Here's the secret, all cameras have good (prime) lenses and most (prime) lenses have been good for at least 100 years. Don't stress too much about it.
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# ? Jan 19, 2024 03:33 |
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Megabound posted:Here's the secret, all cameras have good (prime) lenses and most (prime) lenses have been good for at least 100 years. Don't stress too much about it. Yeah don’t bother with the MD zooms they’re not good but the primes are great
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# ? Jan 19, 2024 04:17 |
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I'll throw my hat in the ring for Pentax K-mount glass, the primes anyway, look and feel much more expensive than they actually are these days, which is nice. By the way, who wants to sell me a 28mm 2.8 Pentax-M lens?
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# ? Jan 19, 2024 04:21 |
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Megabound posted:Here's the secret, all cameras have good (prime) lenses and most (prime) lenses have been good for at least 100 years. Don't stress too much about it. Yeah, this is kind of what I'm realising very quickly. I don't really care about bokeh so super fast lenses aren't a big worry, just sharpness and maybe some character. My last trip I just took a sigma 30mm prime and a nikon 55-200 zoom on my crop sensor camera and it was more than enough - i didn't use the zoom often but it was worth taking. My main concern is getting a reliable mechanical body, followed by not being locked into mediocre lenses. Nearly all of the cameras mentioned can be had tested for around/under 200au, so it's really about narrowing down what i'm after. So far, I know i want: -operation without any batteries (not particularly worried about metering) -speeds up to 1/500 minimum, ideally 1/1000 (shooting a viewfinder that only went up to 125 was an eyeopener) -bulb mode and remote shutter for landscape stuff -not really sure about viewfinders for manual cameras but i think i want a prism ill start keeping an eye on ebay and yahoo japan.
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# ? Jan 19, 2024 04:38 |
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The reason why I recommended the SRT303 and 303b (seeing as you're Australian you'll also find the Japanese counterparts, the SRT Super and SRT505) is for their full information viewfinder. All other SRT models have only aperture in finder whereas these have aperture and shutter speed, and also a hot shoe.
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# ? Jan 19, 2024 05:28 |
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Thoughts on getting film through airport security (meaning X-rays)? I have a trip to LA coming up in a bit, and I plan to bring my ME Super and some rolls of film with, but I've never traveled with film before. Do I need to worry about running film through the x-ray scanners at the airport? If so, whats the recommended way to get it through security? Someone has just posted a (somewhat) scientific test of running a bunch of different film brands and ISO's through the scanners at the Berlin airport. She shoots a bunch of control rolls, then sends a second set of those same shots through the scanners. I have it timestamped for the results, but the rest of it is interesting to watch if not only for the fact that as an American I cant imagine getting through security 6 times in a row without getting arrested https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRlReCTzDV8&t=1216s Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 16:21 on Jan 19, 2024 |
# ? Jan 19, 2024 16:17 |
So, I tried to push Delta 3200 to 25600. I did a stand soak in stock Xtol for 25 minutes, which was just a swag at a number. I did get results. It probably could have sat for another 10-15 minutes. The only number I had seen was 60 minutes for HC110 dilution B. Pushing to 12800 with Xtol was listed at 12:30 with normal agitation. Anyway, that's the last time I try to do development and printing (previously developed shots) in the same time block. Would have been better if I rented the larger room with the larger sink, but it was still just too much for me to manage considering I'm just getting back into it. Have some janky rear end scans using my multifunction printer.
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# ? Jan 20, 2024 05:15 |
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I have a 6x12 pinhole camera that (not surprisingly) has a ton of vignetting. While I don't mind a bit of vignetting with b/w negatives, by my calculations 6x12 with 40 mm focal length gives 4 stops of vignetting, at least 2 stops more than I would like. Fortunately my camera has a 58 mm front filter holder. Unfortunately, I am not entirely sure which filter to get. Since I cannot find a 3 stop filter in a 58 mm thread, I see two options. 1. Hasselblad 58mm Center Filter 3x (1.5 stops). Pro: it screws directly into my filter holder. Con: I still have 2.5 stops of vignetting left. Close to $700. 2. Schneider IIIC 4x (2 stops). Pro: half a stop more correction. $400 (still expensive, but less than $700). Con: 67 mm thread, so I will need a step up ring, which means the filter will be further away from the aperture and I think this will impact the correction factor.(?) What's the smart thing to do. It's not a curved focal plane pinhole camera, right? RIGHT???
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# ? Jan 21, 2024 00:13 |
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Once again with the assistance of megabound i got developed two rolls from my little pinhole unfortunately , my second roll was vastly over exposed as I'm still getting the hang of shooting in less than full sunlight nonetheless, it remains a fun journey and some cool snaps
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# ? Jan 21, 2024 11:22 |
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theHUNGERian posted:I have a 6x12 pinhole camera that (not surprisingly) has a ton of vignetting. While I don't mind a bit of vignetting with b/w negatives, by my calculations 6x12 with 40 mm focal length gives 4 stops of vignetting, at least 2 stops more than I would like. Fortunately my camera has a 58 mm front filter holder. Unfortunately, I am not entirely sure which filter to get. Since I cannot find a 3 stop filter in a 58 mm thread, I see two options. Turns out that Hasselblad also has -2 stop center filters for the flexbody, and B&H had a used copy for sale. I'll see how it performs with a step-up ring and report back.
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# ? Jan 21, 2024 23:12 |
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Could you also do the square filters
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# ? Jan 21, 2024 23:43 |
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Wild EEPROM posted:Could you also do the square filters Can you share a link or a product name?
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# ? Jan 21, 2024 23:54 |
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Lab question: I have an itch to pick up some Ilford 3200 as I like two things: shooting handheld in available light and visible grain. Internet suggests that the "actual sensitivity" of the film is ISO 1000. So if I rate it at 3200 on my meter, what do I mark on the film canister/lab order form? Is that pushed?
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# ? Jan 25, 2024 17:01 |
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Admiral Bosch posted:Lab question: I have an itch to pick up some Ilford 3200 as I like two things: shooting handheld in available light and visible grain. Internet suggests that the "actual sensitivity" of the film is ISO 1000. So if I rate it at 3200 on my meter, what do I mark on the film canister/lab order form? Is that pushed? As I understand it, basically the push on those kinds of film is baked into the developing time specified by the manufacturer. So as long as the lab is marginally competent, should be fine. You'd only need to put special instructions if you push/pulled the exposure (eg shot it at actual 1000, or pushed it to 6400, etc)
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# ? Jan 25, 2024 17:27 |
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Okay, right on, thank you. And to answer your other post, I would be totally down for a Denver shoot sometime. Things are currently a little crazy (spouse medical stuff) but things are calming down. Maybe springtime or something - I'll shoot you a PM around then!
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# ? Jan 25, 2024 17:56 |
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That sort of reminded me, does anyone know of any good film photography groups that do photo walks in the MKE to CHI area? I'm in Milwaukee, but I'd definitely drive to Chicago for one
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# ? Jan 25, 2024 20:47 |
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Admiral Bosch posted:Lab question: I have an itch to pick up some Ilford 3200 as I like two things: shooting handheld in available light and visible grain. Internet suggests that the "actual sensitivity" of the film is ISO 1000. So if I rate it at 3200 on my meter, what do I mark on the film canister/lab order form? Is that pushed? Yeah, labs will develop for box speed not scientifically tested ISO. The reason pushing or pulling costs more is because those rolls have to be developed separately from everything shot at box speed.
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# ? Jan 26, 2024 01:36 |
I tried pushing that film to 25600 after seeing some shots online of it at 12800. Didn't get as much density as I wanted, but I'm just relearning stuff, and I never really did any pushes before that went beyond the massive dev chart. Printing this weekend and I'm really excited to see what I can pull out of those negatives. E: whoops. I already posted this... on this very page even. I'm tired.
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# ? Jan 26, 2024 05:58 |
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Watched Mann's Ferrari last night and though I don't have an encyclopedic knowledge of old cameras it was a lot of fun to watch the mid century press scenes and check out all the cameras - and less fun watching the extras holding them just kinda waggle them around without winding the shutters. Also Mike's Camera in Boulder appears to have lost my film. Great. They have a record of it showing back up in-store *last week* after they sent it to their other location. Didn't get a call or anything - I have had to badger them all month to find out anything. So no Christmas photos for me I guess.
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# ? Jan 27, 2024 18:36 |
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We have any opinion on buying used camera gear from Japan via eBay? I'm seeing excellent condition Nikon F4 bodies for ~$200, shipped, from sellers with good feedback. Versus $350 from Keh.
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# ? Jan 29, 2024 22:17 |
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dema posted:We have any opinion on buying used camera gear from Japan via eBay? I'm seeing excellent condition Nikon F4 bodies for ~$200, shipped, from sellers with good feedback. Versus $350 from Keh. Never had problems with ebay or buyee/yahoo auctions. In general, Japanese second hand goods seem to be better looked after, and I assume all the Japanese made camera/lenses are more numerous there. I just ordered a freshly serviced/cla'd pentax sl for about 80au, can't wait.
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# ? Jan 29, 2024 22:46 |
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Just be sure to read the actual description, in my experience. "Excellent" seems to be a lower grade than some might expect, but I have never seen the well rated ones neglect to mention something major in the description itself. Like you can see "Exc++" or something in the title, but the description mentions fungus or "minor balsam separation" etc in it.
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# ? Jan 29, 2024 22:52 |
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Yeah make sure the optics are clear. on a side note when they say the lens has 'some spiders', is that literal? never really questioned it lol
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# ? Jan 29, 2024 22:55 |
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dema posted:We have any opinion on buying used camera gear from Japan via eBay? I'm seeing excellent condition Nikon F4 bodies for ~$200, shipped, from sellers with good feedback. Versus $350 from Keh. They yen is crazy weak right now, so Japanese sellers are quite happy to sell to deep-pocketed (from their perspective) international buyers. A lot of them will overstate the quality/condition of what they have, so look carefully at the pictures. You have to budget for return shipping if you are dissatisfied. I've been happy with Buyee (a proxy service) for buying on Yahoo! Auctions, which is basically Japanese eBay. It's a lot less well-known internationally so prices tend to be lower than eBay. I always skip the inspection/warranty though, so can't comment on what happens if you need a return. A nice thing about them is they offer a package consolidation service if you're buying multiple things. I bought a Mamiya Six (the old, fixed lens one) 6x6 folder for $30 on there earlier this month.
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# ? Jan 29, 2024 22:56 |
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field balm posted:Yeah make sure the optics are clear. Spiders is mold, threads is scratches. It's just machine translation being bad
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# ? Jan 29, 2024 22:58 |
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Megabound posted:It's just machine translation being bad Yeah that's what I suspected
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# ? Jan 29, 2024 23:00 |
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I bought pretty much all of my camera gear the past couple of years from Japanese sellers on eBay. Everyone’s covered everything about it: ignore the EXC++++/MINT/NEAR MINT ratings, read the descriptions, and look at the photos VERY carefully.
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# ? Jan 30, 2024 04:27 |
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My Fuji rolls got here. I didn't have any more time tonight to start messing with darktable or anything so I just tweaked the color and contrast on this a little bit in a basic image viewer. I like this shot more than the other landscapes I took this month so I'll probably rescan it after being a little more diligent about getting dust particles off of it.
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# ? Jan 30, 2024 05:30 |
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If a Copal 3 needs ~4 test shots before the slow speeds fire consistently (even after just one day of not using it), is that normal, or a sign of needing repair, or should I just trash it and get a new shutter?
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# ? Jan 31, 2024 04:45 |
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theHUNGERian posted:If a Copal 3 needs ~4 test shots before the slow speeds fire consistently (even after just one day of not using it), is that normal, or a sign of needing repair, or should I just trash it and get a new shutter? Copal LF shutters are pretty drat easy to pull apart and clean. I pulled apart a much smaller copal shutter specifically for this reason a while ago, was able to remove the entire slow-speed mechanism, soak it in IPA to remove the old oil and then re-oil, fixed it up perfectly. Definitely don't throw it out!
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# ? Jan 31, 2024 05:34 |
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And if you yourself don't want to repair it for yourself someone here will. But they require servicing to keep in tip top shape
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# ? Jan 31, 2024 07:39 |
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Could someone link a thorough tutorial so I can determine if I am competent enough for this job?
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# ? Jan 31, 2024 15:40 |
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Look at YouTube for teardowns, https://youtu.be/o0aPioTs6hM?si=Jgxl3DqgJG1V7gi8
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# ? Jan 31, 2024 20:40 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 07:22 |
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Come join me in the new instant photography thread because I'm currently in love with Polaroid. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=4053219
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# ? Jan 31, 2024 23:54 |