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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Try Basilicanum Grey Contrast mixed 1:1 with Contrast Medium over a Wraithbone undercoat for the basecoat, maybe. Then perhaps something like AK Light Flesh highlight (aithbrushed or glazed) to introduce warmth into the raised areas. And a final edge /spot highlight of a warm off-white. Nice, worth a look, I like using washes but Basilicanum Grey is a good performer, I find. Generally the contrasts that are borderline washes like Apothecary White and Skeleton Horde seem to work really well. Although I've been using Basilicanum neat for Crux Terminatus and such. Meanwhile I've really come to like the actual colour of Luxion Purple but it's a nightmare to use, I'm probably switching to normal paints and washes for it. Probably my mistake trying to use it specifically on Marine pauldrons.
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Jan 24, 2024 19:52
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AndyElusive posted:It's the secret real reason why first-born want to risk crossing the rubicon primaris. waking up in the apothecarion after, dismayed to find that the "additional six inches" is distributed across every other organ
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Jan 24, 2024 19:53
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Has anyone primed Terrain with gesso? If so, how did it work out?
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Jan 25, 2024 01:06
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The best cheap terrain primer is equal parts PVA glue and cheap black craft paint Edit-- I mean big terrain pieces, I'm not talking detailed GW plastic things.
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Jan 25, 2024 01:25
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Lumpy posted:Has anyone primed Terrain with gesso? If so, how did it work out? Yes! It works, I used to do this back in the day. Gesso is just primer, brush it on like anything else, but can be a bit thick for anything with fine details. You can thin it with a medium, I used to, but I've switched away from that to save me the hassle of mixing. It is cheap.
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Jan 25, 2024 03:23
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I did the thing. I dunked my paint brush in my coffee.
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Jan 25, 2024 04:08
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And? How was the flavor profile?
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Jan 25, 2024 04:52
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Lumpy posted:Has anyone primed Terrain with gesso? If so, how did it work out? I do this all the time, especially when I've built a lot with foam as spray can primer will melt a lot of foams. I think terrain is one of those things where gesso makes sense, especially when you have mixed building materials. If you have terrain with lots of details (like plastic kits) and you're afraid to gum them up too badly, you can always do an initial coat with gesso on the other stuff and then spray a lighter coat over the plastics after. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 09:32 on Jan 25, 2024 |
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Jan 25, 2024 09:30
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Thanks for all the Gesso -> Terrain info! I normally rattle can all my terrain, but given that it might not get above freezing until March and spraying outside and brining it in to dry gives Mrs. Lumpy migraines, this seems like a good brush-on way to go for all the Shatterpoint buildings and gantries I just printed. But I'm definitely going to try that PVA and black paint out as well.
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Jan 25, 2024 15:13
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Lumpy posted:Thanks for all the Gesso -> Terrain info! I normally rattle can all my terrain, but given that it might not get above freezing until March and spraying outside and brining it in to dry gives Mrs. Lumpy migraines, this seems like a good brush-on way to go for all the Shatterpoint buildings and gantries I just printed. But I'm definitely going to try that PVA and black paint out as well. A tip I picked up from Black Magic Craft was to use black acrylic house paint for big terrain sets, etc. I haven't done it myself but it looks effective and makes sense! He also recommends a mix of the big bottle of mod podge and the huge bottles of black craft paint mixed as a primer for smaller terrain pieces too.
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Jan 25, 2024 15:36
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Mederlock posted:A tip I picked up from Black Magic Craft was to use black acrylic house paint for big terrain sets, etc. I haven't done it myself but it looks effective and makes sense! He also recommends a mix of the big bottle of mod podge and the huge bottles of black craft paint mixed as a primer for smaller terrain pieces too. You can use any color of house paint you want, and you can get it in most colors that you might want too. I brought in a sample of Sons of Horus Green to Home Depot, had them color-match it, mixed up a little bottle of that color and I used it to paint the inside of my 3D printed Space Hulk board, after I watered it down for airbrushing. It mixes with water and has great coverage, and there's bunches of card samples in the earth and gray tones you want for ruins and scenery.
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Jan 25, 2024 16:32
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BizarroAzrael posted:Nice, worth a look, I like using washes but Basilicanum Grey is a good performer, I find. Generally the contrasts that are borderline washes like Apothecary White and Skeleton Horde seem to work really well. Although I've been using Basilicanum neat for Crux Terminatus and such. Cult of Paint have a video going live later tonight, it will probably have useful information on approaching that scheme, even if you simplify down what they're doing in it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HR5G9TnnOLY
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Jan 25, 2024 18:51
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I've been watching this box painter do a terminator and it pretty much confirms I will never be able to paint like the box art. Those highlights will be the end of me. 3 and even 4 highlights all over the model? Good lord. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHD0-wgmn-E I want to see the unedited video of a full army with this style.
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Jan 25, 2024 19:28
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The trick is that you put high effort into the characters and no one else because you'll never ever get an army done if you're doing two levels of highlights, glazes and blends on every dude
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Jan 25, 2024 19:34
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I was watching that last night. While I'd cut down the number of highlights, I'm thinking I'd adapt it to paint Legio Atarus. ...If I ever get around to them. I need to finish my Legio Krytos first at least.
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Jan 25, 2024 19:35
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Basecoat, a glaze coat for depth and shadow, and then panel lining seems to get most of the job done.
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Jan 25, 2024 19:40
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Just switch to playing Warcry/Kill Team and you can do a whole army in 10 minis.
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Jan 25, 2024 20:31
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Lol, you think the Terminator is bad? Watch the man paint an Ork, "Yeah just gonna do 10 glazes of different shades of green here".
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Jan 25, 2024 21:06
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:I was watching that last night. While I'd cut down the number of highlights, I'm thinking I'd adapt it to paint Legio Atarus. I'm wondering where the diminishing returns start to show with this many highlights. Can I get something within 99% range if I do only 1 highlight, or will that only put me at like 60% range? One thing I really like about that style is the dark highlight around almost every piece of armor and line, almost like you are showing off each individual piece of this tiny model, and then putting a ton more work on top of that.
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Jan 25, 2024 21:33
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I think the standard go to is the triad of shadow, mid tone, and highlight. Usually you get that with basecoat for mid tone, shade/wash for shadow in recessed areas, and then highlight color on the edges.
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Jan 25, 2024 21:38
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So while rustoleum’s grey paint plus primer worked very well, I’m quite disappointed in their white primer. Is there a good consensus white spray can primer/paint for minis these days? I haven’t painted anything in roughly five years so some of my knowledge is fairly out of date. E: are testors gloss/dullcote still around or is there some other product for spray varnish now?
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Jan 25, 2024 21:44
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Slowly working through my Legions Imperialis sprue  Tiny Contemptor! I tried to make some "Dragon's Teeth" tank traps for the base out of sprue. Also that crossed chain mark is freehand.  Tiny Missile Launchers! It's hard to see, but I made a raised area at the back that looks like a trench wall. Annoyingly I placed the guys at the front too close together, so the base looks a bit crowded.  They're friends   Group shot of what I've done so far. It is.. not much. But I'm enjoying painting at this pace. Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Jan 25, 2024 |
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Jan 25, 2024 21:49
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Cardboard Fox posted:I'm wondering where the diminishing returns start to show with this many highlights. Can I get something within 99% range if I do only 1 highlight, or will that only put me at like 60% range? Depends really. If you’re layering your highlights, 1 highlight looks like it. 2 helps, 3 approaches a rough blend when you look at it from a foot away. If you airbrush on that highlight, you can use the free feathering you get to help hide the transition. If you glaze it on, it’ll be so minute you’d not notice a single stage. Etc etc
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Jan 25, 2024 22:34
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Arcturas posted:Just switch to playing Warcry/Kill Team and you can do a whole army in 10 minis. As someone who's spent my entire life finding it difficult to finish squads (my first complete squad was last September) Killteam rules. Actually to my point I tried to do 3 Hearthkyn Warriors this week instead of two because I was getting impatient and I might have ruined my motivation instead. I'm gonna have to wait til their parts on my desk annoy me enough! Shoehead fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Jan 25, 2024 |
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Jan 25, 2024 22:57
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Yeast posted:Depends really. Glazing and airbrushing highlights sounds hard. I'm going to stick with basic layering with single highlighting for now. I have another question about breathing in all this cool stuff we are making. So, I've purchased some sandpaper to get rid of fine mold lines, but of course I had to read about health effects. The sandpaper I have is made with Silicon Carbide, which does have a warning from the Department of Health to potentially cause lung problems with high exposure. I understand that our exposure is generally way too low to worry, but when we combine primer, paint, glue, and now sandpaper into the mix, I have a small concern of what the air quality of my room is looking like.
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Jan 26, 2024 03:10
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Cardboard Fox posted:Glazing and airbrushing highlights sounds hard. I'm going to stick with basic layering with single highlighting for now. Spray primers should definitely be sprayed outside, and the primed bits left in a dry, warm, and well-ventilated space for a couple days to fully cure and off-gas. The tiny amount of dust you'll inhale from sanding mold lines is so infinitesimal that you literally don't need to worry at all. If it makes you feel more at ease, you could slap on a P95 and then do a quick wet-wipe of your workspace after you're done. Glue, well it depends on the glue, if you're using super glue with say, accelerant or baking soda or whatever, it certainly is a good idea to crack a window and door to allow for airflow across your workspace. I also leave my minis near a window for ~10 minutes after gluing to flash off most of their VOC's. As long as you're only using hobbyist/craft acrylic paints, there's basically 0 risk on that front. 20% of the effort in terms of PPE, patience, and process will get you something like 80-90% of the benefit, so I wouldn't sweat it. Enamel paints on the other hand are nasty as gently caress and I personally don't see the merit in using them for mini work, at least in a space without actual outdoor ventilation.
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Jan 26, 2024 06:28
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Also, is it just me being a terribad rookie painter, or is it hard as gently caress to get white to lay down nice? I'm painting over a white on black zenithal, with barely adulterated titanium white and it's taken 3 coats just to get reasonably opaque coverage over everything. It's also hard to not clog up detail on a Small creature at 28mm D&D scale while trying to achieve this coverage 
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Jan 26, 2024 06:30
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Mederlock posted:Also, is it just me being a terribad rookie painter, or is it hard as gently caress to get white to lay down nice? I'm painting over a white on black zenithal, with barely adulterated titanium white and it's taken 3 coats just to get reasonably opaque coverage over everything. It's also hard to not clog up detail on a Small creature at 28mm D&D scale while trying to achieve this coverage White is notoriously hard to get right. There are several options to ease it, such as airbrushing white ink, starting from a grey undercoat, and just not doing it. The worst way to do it is simply trying to layer white over any dark undercoat.
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Jan 26, 2024 07:49
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Mederlock posted:Also, is it just me being a terribad rookie painter, or is it hard as gently caress to get white to lay down nice? I'm painting over a white on black zenithal, with barely adulterated titanium white and it's taken 3 coats just to get reasonably opaque coverage over everything. It's also hard to not clog up detail on a Small creature at 28mm D&D scale while trying to achieve this coverage Yeah, white is a poo poo color. It's why everyone who knows goes gaga over primarily white armies Yellow is even worse. The trick with both is to do layers underneath of not white. I'm sure someone here can give Citadel color recommendations, but I've had great success with Vallejo Glacier Blue as an undercoat. For a warm white I use pale sand or ivory from Vallejo Model colors, but that's just what I have on hand. Vallejo used to have a color called Extra Opaque Heavy Warmgrey that was absolutely my favorite, but I think it died when they did the new line of Game Color
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Jan 26, 2024 07:54
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Pro Acryl bold titanium white will change your life in terms of coverage.
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Jan 26, 2024 08:23
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Does anyone make a gold primer for airbrush? That would speed things up for me.
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Jan 26, 2024 09:15
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Citadel Imperial Fist contrast paint provides what is by my novice standards a very decent yellow in a single coat over a light colored primer.
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Jan 26, 2024 11:55
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Kylaer posted:Citadel Imperial Fist contrast paint provides what is by my novice standards a very decent yellow in a single coat over a light colored primer. yellow contrast is magic stuff. bone base coat + yellow contrast + light yellow edge highlights makes a nice quick yellow.
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Jan 26, 2024 12:13
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Mederlock posted:Spray primers should definitely be sprayed outside, and the primed bits left in a dry, warm, and well-ventilated space for a couple days to fully cure and off-gas. The tiny amount of dust you'll inhale from sanding mold lines is so infinitesimal that you literally don't need to worry at all. If it makes you feel more at ease, you could slap on a P95 and then do a quick wet-wipe of your workspace after you're done. Glue, well it depends on the glue, if you're using super glue with say, accelerant or baking soda or whatever, it certainly is a good idea to crack a window and door to allow for airflow across your workspace. I also leave my minis near a window for ~10 minutes after gluing to flash off most of their VOC's. Thanks! I always like to ask whenever I buy a new thing for the hobby. Maybe a little paranoid, but I like to be safe.
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Jan 26, 2024 15:49
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man I never leave spray primed minis for more than 12 hours, let alone a couple of days. most of the time I spray around lunchtime and start painting 5 or 6 hours later.
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Jan 26, 2024 16:09
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:man I never leave spray primed minis for more than 12 hours, let alone a couple of days. most of the time I spray around lunchtime and start painting 5 or 6 hours later. Cure time depends on the spray primer you use, your local humidity/temperature, how thin you applied it, etc. etc. I use the cheap 2X Rust-Oleum primer, they dry to the touch in a few hours but they smell for about a day and a half in my environment and remain a little sticky and tacky for 2-5 days. So if you're using a good quality primer meant for minis and live in a warm, dry climate, then yeah it can happen really fast. E: I should say you can paint over the Rust-Oleum stuff after a day or two as long as you don't directly handle the mini with your fingers much. The can straight up says it can take 5-7 for the primer to fully cure and strongly bind to plastic
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Jan 26, 2024 16:12
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Mederlock posted:Cure time depends on the spray primer you use, your local humidity/temperature, how thin you applied it, etc. etc. I use the cheap 2X Rust-Oleum primer, they dry to the touch in a few hours but they smell for about a day and a half in my environment and remain a little sticky and tacky for 2-5 days. So if you're using a good quality primer meant for minis and live in a warm, dry climate, then yeah it can happen really fast. Citadel rattlecans give a drying time of 15 mins, which I think is a bit on the low side, but yeah, I've never had issues after a couple of hours.
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Jan 26, 2024 16:18
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I did have rustoleum peel around the edges several times. I thought it was because of my greasy paw prints all over the miniatures, but I also wasn't leaving it to cure for more than 12 hours.
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Jan 26, 2024 16:20
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Citadel rattlecans give a drying time of 15 mins, which I think is a bit on the low side, but yeah, I've never had issues after a couple of hours.  Please use real primer cans to prime. Citadel and Army painter make good spray cans that dry in reasonable time and not stay sticky for 2-5 days.
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Jan 26, 2024 16:20
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Issaries posted:
Well, I may have overstated how "sticky" it is, it's more that if you're holding the plastic for a prolonged time while trying to do something like adding some more greenstuff bits or otherwise manhandling the mini, it'll come off onto your hands. If you're just priming->painting, no it's totally dry to the touch and doesn't cause any issues.
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Jan 26, 2024 16:26
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