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A couple of the Facebook groups I’m part of are super supportive of everyone’s modeling journey because for each person they have different constraints on their modeling and are at different points in their skill levels. I like seeing the top tier stuff because it gives me something to aim towards but also like the support those same people will give to others who are still developing skills.
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Jan 24, 2024 00:03
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stealie72 posted:Off to see if mine does this. I looked into joining and ultimately didn't because I can't make it to meetings of my existing commitments much less adding something new, but I'll support that in a heartbeat. If they do, they would probably allow specific contributions to that program also, I know the chapter here does. I could write them a check for $250 and say to use it for the Make and Take stuff, and they would use it to buy models for the program. One of the active members in the local group is also the owner of one of the better model & railroad oriented hobby stores, so the program gets to buy all their models at his cost which really helps stretch that money.
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Jan 24, 2024 02:42
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Chuck_D posted:Screenshots of douchebaggery for those of us who aren't facebookers plz. A lot of the abuse was in the form of guys putting laugh emoji reactions under his post/photos. stealie72 posted:Through some quirk of facebook, I ended up joining a couple primarily British modeling groups and have been shocked in general how supportive they've been with very little prickish bullshit. There's more than one guy who is doing modeling as something to keep their hands moving as they deal with some degenerative diseases, and their stuff is not "good" by any objective measure, but they get tons of support from the group when they post. Plus like 6 other old guys who have advice about what wrist rests to use to steady their hands and whatnot. This is something I've noticed too as a British modeller involved quite heavily with shows (I help run the Scottish Nationals). In the UK our shows are oriented towards club displays and SIGs (and traders of course) rather than competition, whereas I believe US shows and especially the IPMS USA Nationals (and AMPS shows etc) are very much built around the competition as the main draw. While we do have competitions at most shows, they're typically just a smaller affair. I would imagine this lack of emphasis on building-for-competition is reflected in the ethos of a lot of our clubs where - at least in my experience - there's very little rivet counting or one-upmanship. The tone of so many facebook model groups by contrast, with some notable exceptions, is snobbish and gatekeeping with some verging even into macho testosterone-filled dickswinging (e.g. The Scale Modeller's Critique Group) which is hilarious when you think about the fact that we're just building plastic toys. We always run Make & Take sessions at our shows for kids, and Airfix actually sponsor ours at the Scottish Nationals and send us up a big pallet of starter kits to give away for young folk to have a go at with some help and guidance from the show's volunteers.
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Jan 24, 2024 02:53
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Dang, another closure. Archer Fine Transfers has closed after 30 years in operation. One of the most unique modeling products out there, and no one else offers the wide selection of dry transfers they did. In other good news Archer Fine Transfers is no longer closing! They've found a buyer to continue running the store, and will stay open for the foreseeable future. They don't have their full stock of decals available yet, but will add more over time. And I say "decals", because they seem to have rebranded as simply "Archer", and it looks like all of their new and upcoming stock will be decals. The dry-transfers seem to have been completely retired. Probably too expensive to produce them, unfortunately.
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Jan 24, 2024 03:41
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tidal wave emulator posted:The tone of so many facebook model groups by contrast, with some notable exceptions, is snobbish and gatekeeping with some verging even into macho testosterone-filled dickswinging (e.g. The Scale Modeller's Critique Group) which is hilarious when you think about the fact that we're just building plastic toys. Like, I'm having tons of fun reconnecting with my main childhood hobby, and it's fun to "research source materials" to see what the model should look like, but in the end, I'm just a dork looking at pictues of tanks and planes and making fun little toys to put in my office. Dudes will ruin anything fun because they just gotta dickswing.
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Jan 24, 2024 04:17
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do I make little plane and tank noises while driving them around my painting desk when I build them? I'll never tell.
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Jan 24, 2024 04:38
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Jonny Nox posted:do I make little plane and tank noises while driving them around my painting desk when I build them?
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Jan 24, 2024 04:38
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I'm glad to see that dickery was called out. Especially for kids getting into the hobby but really for everyone. There's too much god drat *well ackchually...*. I'm part of a few Facebook groups because I like to see the pictures but never do I read comments and I only post my own stuff here, in a supportive forum. My wife suggested we go to a model train show with the kids this weekend. Should be fun and both my kids love anything miniature adjacent!
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Jan 24, 2024 04:39
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therunningman posted:
If that's the Springfield one then definitely do that, I went a few years back and it was huge with lots of fun stuff and some cool modeling things that those train guys keep secret from the rest of us. That's the first place I saw e-z line, for example. Just need to avoid the clown.
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Jan 24, 2024 11:37
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I always go along to the local model railway show even though I don't build rail stuff, their scenery/diorama skills are often amazing and they tend to have traders who sell every tool under the sun you could possibly need for scratch building.
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Jan 24, 2024 11:44
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stealie72 posted:It'd be cooler if you did. Then call me Steve fuckin' McQueen.
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Jan 24, 2024 17:47
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Unkempt posted:If that's the Springfield one then definitely do that, I went a few years back and it was huge with lots of fun stuff and some cool modeling things that those train guys keep secret from the rest of us. That's the first place I saw e-z line, for example. Not that fortunate! I live in a pretty rural area of BC but I'm still looking forward to it. If anyone is thinking of shopping at Lucky Model and using their surface shipping option, don't be in a hurry! If you're on a budget and can wait, the prices are really good. I ordered some things in July and they finally got to me in British Columbia. 
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Jan 24, 2024 19:36
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First time poster here, randomly decided to buy a model recently and have been amazed by the stuff in this thread. I've been slowly putting my Revell 1980 Jeep Honcho Ice Patrol together over the last few weeks; all I have is a bottle of Tamiya extra thin cement, a 16-pack of vallejo colors, and a pack of Martha Stewart paintbrushes that have been lying around for years (not looking to dump a bunch of money into this new hobby just yet). I got this model because it was the cheapest I could find and it came with a snowmobile that I figured I could put together first as a practice run (thank goodness I did  ).The truck has been looking pretty bland (not great lines, my blue is flat so it just looks like a toy, etc) but today I finally started doing some detail painting and mixed some baking powder with a yellow ochre/brown mixture to add some rust/mud and it was the most fun I've had working on this thing so far. Still looks worse than whatever that kid probably posted on facebook but it was a blast! (Also I'm just now realizing I probably should've waited to do this once the decals were on...) I've hosed up a lot along the way (gluing before painting and having poo poo accuracy with my brush are the main two) and I'm at the point where its all little fiddly bits and pieces like side mirrors, so before I gently caress up any more, are there any other hot tips you would give someone new to the hobby? I watched that ironman video from a page or two back where the guy weathered the road by dripping colors and smearing with a paper towel and that was the first time it clicked that I could do something like that without an airbrush. It seems like there are probably a billion little lifehacks but all I've really found are the baking soda thing, using a pencil to make nice lines in like the door creases, and something about salt that I'm already past the point of trying. Also anything on doing a wash with the acrylic paints I have because I've read it needs thinner, no just water, actually a drop of soap too, actually you want soapy water on the model and then soapy watery paint... I appreciate any advice or resources! I'll try to post the final product once I'm done (but not the snowmobile... yikes.) 
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Jan 25, 2024 01:06
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Phone posting so can't drop in a bunch of sources but...post the drat snowmobile. Your writeup is too intriguing. Oh, and as a car newbie myself, I couldn't make it not look like poo poo with regular acrylics and an airbrush. The only way I could make anything half decent was with an enamel rattle can with metallic sparkles in it. stealie72 fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Jan 25, 2024 |
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Jan 25, 2024 01:17
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All of my first cars where Tamiya sprays for the body then all of the interior stuff and running gear was hand painted. I still hand paint a majority of the interior stuff now even though I have an airbrush.
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Jan 25, 2024 02:04
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 Here's the truck in progress. The frame isn't attached to the body yet, and just ignore the bed, I'm going to try to experiment with the "paint rust then paint blue then sand lightly" trick. Also a lot of the rust/mud needs cleaning up (especially the roof). 
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Jan 25, 2024 02:34
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I kind of like the roof, looks like maybe someone had a light bar on there at one point and took it off. On Facebook groups, I just wish more groups had a firm policy when it comes to The Swastika Bullshit.
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Jan 25, 2024 04:05
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poo poo, I've made worse. And that truck looks a lot better than you made it sound! FrozenVent posted:On Facebook groups, I just wish more groups had a firm policy when it comes to The Swastika Bullshit. Like, group names should be "Military Modeling Fun-Cover Your Swastikas, Dumbass" at this point. stealie72 fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Jan 25, 2024 |
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Jan 25, 2024 04:07
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I'm mad I can't get this in the UK without paying the kits price in shipping
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Jan 25, 2024 04:12
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nitsuga posted:Nice work! Neat scenery, and the lines really do look natural. Thank you for your kind words! I am pleased with how he turned out, and how my collection of 54mm figures is gradually growing too.
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Jan 25, 2024 04:19
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Getting some big, big Moto-Ski Mirage energy off of that sled of yours (which is a good thing).
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Jan 25, 2024 04:20
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Friend posted:
The rust and overall weathering of the truck looks very nice especially for a first model. Something that might be almost free for you is to try sponge chipping. Just cut a tiny piece of sponge (like the one you maybe already have in your sink) grabit with some tweezers, wet the sponge then dab it in a little bit of whatever paint you want to use for rust effects and then dab it on a paper towel until theres almost no paint left on it. Then go ahead and dab it lightly on the areas of the model you want to look chipped and rusty. It can produce surprisingly nice results.
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Jan 25, 2024 05:27
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Friend posted:
Looks good! Something to try that may give the rust some variation is to stipple various shades of brown (or "sponge chip"). Just tint the brown you are using a little bit with whatever you got. Charliegrs posted:Something that might be almost free for you is to try sponge chipping. Just cut a tiny piece of sponge (like the one you maybe already have in your sink) grabit with some tweezers, wet the sponge then dab it in a little bit of whatever paint you want to use for rust effects and then dab it on a paper towel until theres almost no paint left on it. Then go ahead and dab it lightly on the areas of the model you want to look chipped and rusty. It can produce surprisingly nice results. Sponge chipping is so much fun I really have to watch myself to not grossly overdo it! Foam brushes they are perfect for nipping little pieces off for exactly this. I finished my Trumpeter Panzer38. I aimed to have it done for Backlogtober but I didn't make it. It was a fun build and I'm really happy with it. I really struggled with the silvered decals on the turret and I also somehow glued the front plate on backwards. I covered it up with some sandbags. I used various Tamiya leftover bits for the stowage and did baby's first "scratch build" for the wood parts. I painted with a mix of acrylics.  
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Jan 25, 2024 07:35
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Those road wheels are lit AF.
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Jan 25, 2024 08:33
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Friend posted:
Hell of a start, dude! The rust/mud/general crustiness on the fender flares look great. Your idea for a rusty basecoat in the bed and then sanding back a color coat is a great idea. Use a nice fine sandpaper when you knock back the blue and I think it'll turn out really nice. You can do similar things with different types of paint and appropriate thinners as well, but I know you're currently* limited to your Vallejo selection. Having built nearly exclusively automotive models, I'll tell you now that you will be your harshest critic. You'll find things like "ah, I could have done this differently" or "that didn't work like I thought it would" and stuff like that, but if you can remember those thoughts on the next build, you'll be happier with the results. Keep it up! *If you have any fun at all with this build, that will change.
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Jan 25, 2024 14:54
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mllaneza posted:Those road wheels are lit AF. Thanks! I like how they turned out! Boaz MacPhereson posted:You'll find things like "ah, I could have done this differently" or "that didn't work like I thought it would" and stuff like that, but if you can remember those thoughts on the next build, you'll be happier with the results. Keep it up! Every build has its unique challenges and learning moments, serving to make the next one better! Also, make sure to keep this first model around to see how far you'll come. 
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Jan 26, 2024 04:34
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Im almost finished with my Tamiya Bradley IFV (pics to come soon). I painted it in desert yellow as I was going for an Iraq war version. Anyone have any tips on how to get a good dusty finish? Im aiming for more of a "dusty from rolling around the streets of Baghdad" look as opposed to the "dustiness of rolling through the open desert for days on end" look if that makes any sense. I was thinking dabbing it with some light colored pigments might be good enough? I especially want the tracks to look very dusty.
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Jan 26, 2024 23:34
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Pigments work well. For the all over dust coat you're describing though, people will often make a very dilute mix of paint, 10 to 1 thinner vs paint, and very lightly spray that over the lower chassis, fading it as it goes higher up. With such a dilute paint, you can get a very hazy, light fade, that you can build in layers to suit your taste.
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Jan 26, 2024 23:40
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Pigments work well. For the all over dust coat you're describing though, people will often make a very dilute mix of paint, 10 to 1 thinner vs paint, and very lightly spray that over the lower chassis, fading it as it goes higher up. With such a dilute paint, you can get a very hazy, light fade, that you can build in layers to suit your taste. I've heard of this before but never tried it. Any idea what would be a good paint color to use for this?
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Jan 27, 2024 00:21
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Charliegrs posted:I've heard of this before but never tried it. Any idea what would be a good paint color to use for this? I'm not sure what type of paints you are invested in but I have had good luck with AK's acrylic "Buff" and "Light Earth" for hazy dust. Maybe give it a shot on a plastic spoon with the basr coat on it or the bottom of the model before committing fully.
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Jan 27, 2024 07:08
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FrozenVent posted:You ever set a build aside because you were at the decal step and gently caress decals, procrastinate for like six months, then not be able to find the decals? Just remembered this! They are from an old Revell kit. Not exactly new but if you're interested I'd be happy to pop them in the mail for you. 
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Jan 27, 2024 20:47
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The Bradley is doneish.      
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Jan 28, 2024 02:53
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It's happening.jpg Now I just need to be able to afford it. Then, to start the campaign for Hawkins and Colorado 
NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Jan 28, 2024 |
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Jan 28, 2024 04:21
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NTRabbit posted:It's happening.jpg Is it supposed to be crazy expensive or something? I don't know much about ship models, but everything else that's similar and in the same scale seems to be $130 or less roughly.
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Jan 28, 2024 04:28
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Is it supposed to be crazy expensive or something? I don't know much about ship models, but everything else that's similar and in the same scale seems to be $130 or less roughly. The Dragon 1/350 Scharnhorst is just under $200 on eBay, not sure what the MSRP is.
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Jan 28, 2024 04:42
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Depending on maker and subject 1/350 battleships can go anywhere from $90 dollarydoos (Academy Warspite) to $400 dollarydoos (Fujimi Ise)
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Jan 28, 2024 05:00
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Charliegrs posted:The Bradley is doneish. Very nicely done! Looks nice and dusty. The weathering looks great as a desert vehicle. What did you end up using?
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Jan 28, 2024 07:24
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Charliegrs posted:The Bradley is doneish. Very nice work! Did you end up using pigments, or a light spray coat for the dust? Either way, it turned out great!
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Jan 28, 2024 07:25
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NTRabbit posted:Depending on maker and subject 1/350 battleships can go anywhere from $90 dollarydoos (Academy Warspite) to $400 dollarydoos (Fujimi Ise) Going to look up the Ise. I want just a pagoda tower model.
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Jan 28, 2024 08:21
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Going to look up the Ise. I want just a pagoda tower model. They have Ise and Hyuga in battle carrier form, Fujimi also has Fuso and Kongo, Hasegawa has Nagato, and Aoshima also has Kongo
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Jan 28, 2024 08:28
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