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Wasn't there some kind of VERY german engineered mechanical based abs on some old BMW bikes? ie with wear parts that are unobtainium now? I may be misremembering. Some info here https://www.bmw-k1.com/abs/
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Jan 23, 2024 13:01
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Yeah my rear has a sprocket of some sort so it's very likely that. I know a lot of people just delete ABS on these but it's usually due to the pump failing. Didn't know they were unobtainium but it's certainly not surprising to hear. If it's not unobtainium it's basically in "hope you can find a salvage part" territory due to OEM price  It's been super solid for me in the short time I've owned it though, knock on wood.
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Jan 23, 2024 13:07
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hahaha, yikes 
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Jan 23, 2024 13:34
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As a point of reference, the little LCD clock/temp/fuel gauge costs more from OEM than I paid for the bike.
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Jan 23, 2024 14:18
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Supradog posted:Wasn't there some kind of VERY german engineered mechanical based abs on some old BMW bikes? ie with wear parts that are unobtainium now? I may be misremembering. quote:In addition, 4kg far above the centre of gravity - this has a negative effect on handling! You can tell an engineer wrote this, what a hilarious fantasy
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Jan 23, 2024 18:22
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Been having a strange problem: I installed leads to my battery to power a pair of heated gloves. The bike (striple 675) starts fine, runs fine, gloves work fine. The gloves use 4 amps combined at peak power and the lead has a 5 amp fuse. No other accessories. However, every so often something that sounds like an alarm goes off. It's not very loud and stops after a few seconds. It took me a minute to even realize the noise was coming from the bike and not a nearby car. The alarm noise only seems to kick in when I'm up to second gear but it stops before I can pull over and pull out my phone to record it. I can't consistently reproduce it. I can't find any guidance from the service manual. Any ideas? Do I need to reset the alarm somehow, or is there too much parasitic load on the electrical system that 's triggering this somehow? There seems to be an empty slot for a relay for heated grips but the bike doesn't have those installed.
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Jan 24, 2024 03:46
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Are you sure it's an actual alarm buzzer and not, say, a mechanical vibration that happens to sound exactly like a buzzer that happens at a certain RPM? E.g. I once thought I had head knocking at high RPM, but it turned out to be the speedometer cable rattling against the fender when I hit its resonant frequency. Can you be more specific about "every so often?" What are the circumstances that make it happen? I'll bet it isn't completely random.
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Jan 24, 2024 09:54
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxNp3bUDtxY
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Jan 24, 2024 13:02
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It's definitely a tinny electronic alarm noise and not a vibration. It sounds like a muted car alarm (wee-ooo, wee-ooo). As mentioned, it kicks in when I'm moving in second gear above roughly 10mph. I have a hard time reproducing it in a parking lot but it seems to kick in regularly in stop and go driving when I get moving. But again, it stops before I can pull over and record the sound. I thought it was the immobilizer, but the bike isn't immobilized. It starts fine. Also the alarm light on the dash isn't on. It's warmed up a bit so I'm going to try the bike later without the heated gloves and see if it has to do with the current draw, though according to this the bike should easily have enough excess power to run the gloves. I'll also set up my helmet cam. Oh I guess one thing I should've mentioned is that the battery also has leads attached to the battery terminals for a charger/tender, which I've never used.
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Jan 24, 2024 16:27
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Is there a fob with a panic button you can use to actually trigger the alarm to verify it is the same thing? If it is, alarm systems are notoriously finicky and im guessing its getting triggered perhaps by a voltage drop from the added accessory load?
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Jan 24, 2024 16:55
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Talk to me about carb sync tools. The field spans building one yourself from some tubing, to cheap aliexpress dropships on amazon, to actually expensive amazon stuff that ranges from analog to digital. I don't really know whether this is a "buy once cry once" thing or a "buy whatever it'll all get you in the ballpark" thing. I guess I can always check to see whether the local auto parts places rent them out too?
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Jan 25, 2024 18:47
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https://carbtuneshop.myshopify.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAqsitBhDlARIsAGMR1RiiAwJm1WflM2Wd6C_rjF3wE8qA4sFMDSKALyGDAxYDVFC6ztq4yaYaAsSBEALw_wcB
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Jan 25, 2024 19:05
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Seconded, I bought one when I started wrenching, works good.
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Jan 25, 2024 19:21
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Yeah I'm not going to overthink it. I'll grab one, thanks. Grabbed a 4 port. I only have 2 carb bikes but what's an extra $15 to futureproof. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jan 25, 2024 |
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Jan 25, 2024 19:35
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I made my own 4-cylinder version out of tubing and ATF and it worked fine for synchronizing the Bandit 1200. Now that I own only carbureted thumpers and a fuel injected 6-cylinder bike, it sits unused
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Jan 25, 2024 20:53
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eh I was thinking about doing that, but I'd have to get tubes and things and if the Amazon ones were as good I'd just spend $50 on that. And if I'm spending $50 and the recommended tool is just $50 more I'll just stop trying to talk myself out of buying the good thing to save a few bucks. Knowing myself, if I tried to make it I'd just do it wrong, get frustrated, and end up buying something anyway. I don't know how often I need to sync carbs but seeing as how I'm cleaning the throttle bodies I'll definitely need to do it at least once. I'm Ok for this to join the pile of tools I've used once or twice though. In the end it's just hobby money.
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Jan 25, 2024 20:59
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lol I was gonna say buy my CarbTune!
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Jan 26, 2024 02:09
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Lately it's been raining a lot and it's making me freak out every time I park after a long commute. The rain combined with the road grime that gets kicked up all over my engine results in burning smells (Subtle oil/plastic scents) carried in the billowing steam that really seems like a bike fire is about to start. Husqvarna 401's are known to run stupid hot during normal operation, but I'm worried my bike is beyond normal. Does anyone else experience this when riding a lot in the winter?
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Jan 27, 2024 02:52
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Scam Likely posted:Lately it's been raining a lot and it's making me freak out every time I park after a long commute. The rain combined with the road grime that gets kicked up all over my engine results in burning smells (Subtle oil/plastic scents) carried in the billowing steam that really seems like a bike fire is about to start. Husqvarna 401's are known to run stupid hot during normal operation, but I'm worried my bike is beyond normal. Does anyone else experience this when riding a lot in the winter? I smelled the same thing out riding in today's misty fog. I had no idea what the hell was going on, made even more confusing by the fact that with how hosed up my sinuses are, I have a hard time really smelling much all that well unless I'm wearing a helmet. I guess it applies enough pressure in the right spots as my nose fully opens up and I can actually smell like how I imagine normal people do. It faintly smelled like burning oil which it doesn't do.
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Jan 27, 2024 04:59
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It's probably fine. It's a bike, you're literally sitting on top of the engine so you can smell everything. My FZR wafts big clouds of smelly steam in the rain, it's absolutely hilarious. Choo choo motherfucker! One of the PO's has wrapped the exhaust in fibre glass and that appears to absorb some water, making it boil off in a couple tens of seconds instead of instantly. But lightly tap your brake calipers (not the disks, if those turn out to be scorching hot, you'll get a blister in no time) with your fingers to check if they're not stupid hot from dragging. Then check your tires for weird wear patterns to ensure nothing is rubbing against them (been there, it was a luggage strap, didn't harm the tire but the strap got worn half way through, fuckkk so that's what i was smelling). Also check if nothing has gotten stuck to the exhaust system, like a plastic bag or part of your luggage or something like it. Then again, it's a KTM 390, and those apparently run very lean so they might as well actually run too hot without modifying the injection mapping. Wait for someone to chime in about that. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 11:09 on Jan 27, 2024 |
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Jan 27, 2024 11:05
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Scam Likely posted:Does anyone else experience this when riding a lot in the winter? Yes, bikes smell bad in rain/snow/muck.
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Jan 27, 2024 17:25
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You’re flash boiling road grime, it’s gonna smell bad
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Jan 27, 2024 17:29
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Update - quote:I installed leads to my battery to power a pair of heated gloves. The bike (striple 675) starts fine, runs fine, gloves work fine. The gloves use 4 amps combined at peak power and the lead has a 5 amp fuse. No other accessories. Finally got some ridable weather, remembered to bring my gopro aaand... I couldn't reproduce the noise. After more than an hour of riding and running the gloves on different settings, everything seemed hunky dory. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Jan 28, 2024 00:26
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That’s British electricals!!
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Jan 28, 2024 15:50
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This may be a dumb question, but is testing the heating element on a heated grip by just running 12v into it off the bike valid, or do I need to do resistance checking etc?
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Feb 1, 2024 13:41
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I’d think that would be fine assuming no computer fuckery, etc
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Feb 1, 2024 14:11
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I've got a bin in my garage containing various liquids like wd-40, fuel stabilizer, carb cleaner, brake clean, 3-in-1, pb blaster, assembly lube, cable lube, etc. My garage isn't heated, so it regularly reaches freezing temps during the winter. Should I be bringing this bin into the house during the winter?
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Feb 1, 2024 14:20
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Beve Stuscemi posted:I’d think that would be fine assuming no computer fuckery, etc I'm going to trace the wires back a little but I don't think there's much fuckery outside of the dashboard switch. Going to give it a shot, thanks!
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Feb 1, 2024 14:23
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The grips im familiar with the most, oxfords range without thermistor is just 12v to the grip heating elements in pulses based on what % the controller is set at. at 100% it runs voltage all the time, 50% half of the time etc.  The new thermistor based ones has a temp probe in the grips so it has 3 wires to the grips. It runs power all the time until it reaches the heat target.   I assume the probe is just a simple resistance based measure that changes depending on the heat in the grip. Edit: the thermistor ones are faster to heat up, and you dont have to do the dance with setting it to 100% to heat it up fast, then dial it down. The only gripe i have with the thermistor ones is that the lowest 35C setting is too high for a low temp setting. on the old type id run the grips on 30% most of the time just to reduce clamminess in the gloves, i cant do that on the new ones, i'd get sweaty instead. Supradog fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Feb 1, 2024 |
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Feb 1, 2024 14:43
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Thanks! These are OEM grips from 1994. I just happen to have the bike apart and figured if I'm going to ether fix (or delete) them then this is as good a time as any since the cable actually feeds through the handlebar. I'm still trying to figure out what the mechanism is where they run 50% but I suspect it's nothing as smart as pulsing, maybe just running the 12v through a bleed resistor or something. I honestly don't remember if they work or not, but given the state of some of the wiring on the bike I'm not really taking much on faith. If they don't work at the element side I'm certainly not going to pay OEM prices to replace them, so I'll either try one of the aftermarket 12v grip elements and see if I can snake those cables through the same route, or just delete them entirely since this is more of a warm weather bike for me. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Feb 1, 2024 |
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Feb 1, 2024 14:52
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You do have a multimeter, right? Everyone household should have one, preferably digital and in the 20-40€ price range, they're excellent value for money, safe and very easy to use compared to the old school analog ones. This is one of those many, many situations where diagnosing an electrical fault would be easy with such a device and difficult (and more risky) without one. Like yeah, doing a resistance check by probing the connector to the faulty grip and compare with the resistance in the good one would be an excellent start. If they are similar your grip is good and you can look elsewhere for the fault. If you manage to read a reasonable resistance (Ohms, not kiloOhms or megaOhms) on the good grip but get no connectivity at all through the bad one, you know that either the connection to it or the nichrome heater wire itself is broken.
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Feb 1, 2024 15:12
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Yeah absolutely, and that's the other option. I just figured it would be easy to see if 12v = warm vs checking resistance while it's off the bike. I'm kind of out of my element when it comes to electricity beyond things like "i measured a voltage and number ~= number" and "it has continuity" so the "reasonable resistance" thing is something I don't have a good intuition for. That's really the only reason I had floated the practical check first 
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Feb 1, 2024 15:43
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The practical approach has some risks associated with it that probing around with the multimeter does not. IIRC the last and only time I checked resistance in a pair of heated grips it was about 40 ohm, or maybe it was 7, I forget, the exact number is not important. Either value would be at least in the realm of making sense since a grip would need a meaningful amount of current flowing through it to make it warm, but not so much current that things start melting or burning. I would just start messing with the known good grip to see what you can learn about its properties, and also get familiar with the resistance mode(s) on your multimeter - unlike the practical approach you can't possibly destroy anything, blow any fuses or start any fires by doing this so it's perfectly safe, especially so if you remove a battery terminal on the bike first. If you see thousands or millions of ohms, or less than one, you're doing something wrong. Anyways, once you feel confident that you are successfully measuring the resistance of the heater wire in the good grip, do the same thing on the faulty one and see if you learn anything about it. Edit : My two cheap multimeters  The big blue one has a few different settings for resistance measuring. You need to be in the right range to get a number. The little one (that comes along on moto road trips) only has one mode on the twist knob for resistance, diode mode or continuity with beep (sub-mode chosen with the yellow SELECT button) that does the ranges automagically, but lights up a subtle M or K in the display for Mega or Kilo if the resistance is high enough to warrant it. Odds are you have a HOLD button too on your gadget. It just keeps a value on the display after you remove the probes, should probably light up an H or something on the display too. Invalido fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Feb 1, 2024 |
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Feb 1, 2024 16:45
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjOD-Yg8Vgo I'm the dummy here right? I assumed the driver was slowing to turn left at the cross street, but should've waited a bit longer before passing.
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Feb 2, 2024 00:43
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Much more effort explaining this than I deserve -- thank you! I learned a lot! And I ohmed it out to determine a good working grip. Will check the second tomorrow. Appreciate it!
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Feb 2, 2024 01:41
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I get so much anxiety watching motorcycle videos now, I kept waiting for the worst to happen. Yes, you can't undertake (pass on the right) legally unless they signal they're turning into traffic (turning left). That doesn't mean people don't do it all the time, especially in parts of the US, but that's where things went wrong for you.
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Feb 2, 2024 01:55
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Scam Likely posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjOD-Yg8Vgo Seems like you were expecting them to turn left but they didn’t. Not sure if I would try to pass on the right in that spot even if that car was turning right either. Russian Bear fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Feb 2, 2024 |
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Feb 2, 2024 02:30
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Scam Likely posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjOD-Yg8Vgo 100%. When a car brakes in the middle of the road, you should hang back until you see they what they actually do. That dude could've been going right, left, about to throw it in reverse to parallel park (in which case you don't want to be on his rear end), execute a 3-point U-turn because gently caress you, or be stopped because someone's dog got loose up ahead. After they prove to be an inconsiderate rear end who didn't signal and just stopped in the middle of the road, you can honk and flip them off once you're clear.
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Feb 2, 2024 03:10
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Remy Marathe posted:After they prove to be an inconsiderate rear end who didn't signal and just stopped in the middle of the road, you can honk and flip them off once you're clear. Safety is important but maintaining the moral high ground is imperative.
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Feb 2, 2024 03:12
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My favorite is when I honk at someone in front of me, only to realize they're waiting for a pedestrian. You'd think I'd learn.
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Feb 2, 2024 03:14
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