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wesleywillis posted:2009 Corolla. Are you saying you are getting a bad OBD o2 sensor code along with all the others?
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Jan 29, 2024 17:20
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C-Bangin' it 
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2012 Ford F250 Super Duty with 6.2 gas V8. 80k miles. I am now caring for this heap of poo poo. What common failures does it have? Because I'm seeing a lot of failures. 1) Exhaust leak from the front of the engine. Obviously from an exhaust manifold, undiagnosed. 2) Front suspension feels like it's only attached to the frame by gravity. Hitting bumps makes a whole lot of movement and bangs. 3) Rear suspension feels like the front, barely connected to the car. I'm going to get it to a shop for inspection/quote, but can anyone give a heads up on what to look for here?
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Jan 29, 2024 17:23
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EVERYWHERE 
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Built Ford Tough
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Jan 29, 2024 17:31
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To be honest, the 6.2/drivetrain is the most rock solid they've cranked out for years. With that said, suspension making GBS threads the bed at 80K on Super Duties is not uncommon. Death wobble. If the drat feels like it is floating, maybe cab/bed mounts. It is a simple design so shouldn't be too bad to square away.
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Jan 29, 2024 17:37
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MetaJew posted:We've got a 2021 Model Y Long Range with ~33k miles on the OEM tires w/ 19" wheels. Probably the place to ask: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3887596&pagenumber=1&perpage=40
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Jan 29, 2024 17:39
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MetaJew posted:We've got a 2021 Model Y Long Range with ~33k miles on the OEM tires w/ 19" wheels. Rubber is rubber and tires are tires. You can either go with the OEM recommendation to optimize all the properties, or not. There will be no independent test to find the real answer, but I am guessing there won't be substantial differences in tire wear as long as you get a tire designed for your vehicle specifications. The rest is likely to be mostly marketing rather than any actual difference you will notice. And, the increased cost for specialized fancy marketing tires, may outweigh any difference in tire wear. Though I know you were asking more around range rather than wear. Check out tirerack.com for your year and model if you haven't already to see what it recommends. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Jan 29, 2024 |
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Jan 29, 2024 17:52
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Colostomy Bag posted:Are you saying you are getting a bad OBD o2 sensor code along with all the others? Mr. Nice! posted:That sounds more like a wheel speed sensor than an O2 sensor. totalnewbie posted:Why is it the o2 sensor? Backstory: 6-8 months ago my Traction control, ABS and VSC lights came on. Intermittently, for a bit, then full time. I brought it in and they said it was a rear wheel bearing and part of the harness that goes to it. The car was 14 years old at the time and I live in salt country so I figured its not unreasonable that the bearing and part of the harness might need replacement. They also mentioned that the other wheel bearing was on its way out, but still "good". I don't remember if the Check Engine light also came on that time. Got them to replace and the problem went away. Last week the check engine light came on, Traction control light, and VSC light. VSC light was flashing. No abs light. I made an appointment for today and drove minimally but after a day or two the lights all went out. When I talked to them about the appointment I mentioned the lights of course, and that it had been there a while back for a rear wheel bearing (I forget which side) and that they said the other one was getting close to needing replacement. I brought it in today and they did a road test and then I guess they must have hooked up their scanner to it. I think she (the service advisor) mentioned something about too much resistance in the O2 sensor. Or O2 sensor circuit. I suppose its possible that the O2 sensor AND the wheel bearing went out at the same time but she never said anything about any codes for the wheel speed sensor etc. I know I don't know everything about everything, but a bad O2 sensor triggering the Traction Control light and causing the VSC light to flash seems funny. Check Engine light sure, but the other two? WHAT SAYETH THE INTERNET? E: My post for June edited to remove stuff unrelated. wesleywillis posted:09 Corolla, 2.4l etc etc. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Jan 29, 2024 |
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Jan 29, 2024 18:52
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Colostomy Bag posted:To be honest, the 6.2/drivetrain is the most rock solid they've cranked out for years. Good news, thanks! It seems pretty okay at highway speeds, no abnormal vibrations, etc., but going over railroad tracks? goddamn, thing feels like it's gonna separate.
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Jan 29, 2024 19:01
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wesleywillis posted:I brought it in today and they did a road test and then I guess they must have hooked up their scanner to it. I think she (the service advisor) mentioned something about too much resistance in the O2 sensor. Or O2 sensor circuit. O2 sensor circuit high voltage? P0138? If it didn't set a code, don't replace it. If it did then okay, but it's unlikely to be directly related to everything else. But if it did set a code, that's one of the most common ones. FWIW.. this is typically caused by an open circuit somewhere. High voltage actually means no voltage because of the pull-up voltage. Typical cause is water intrusion, either through the filter or on the leadwire itself due to abrasion or some other damage. Disclaimer: this is from my perspective an an engineer; trust actual good mechanics over me for actual practical advice. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jan 29, 2024 |
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Jan 29, 2024 19:27
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wesleywillis posted:WHAT SAYETH THE INTERNET? If your shitbox is anything like my shitbox, the traction control light at least could possibly be a failing brake light switch. I had that intermittently going on for years, though it was a speed sensor but didn't know which one. Finally I managed to scan it while it was going on (no codes were previously stored). O2 sensors die, it's what they do. Wheel bearings don't throw codes or turn on dashboard lights, they make noises and then bad things happen if you ignore it.
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Jan 29, 2024 19:33
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Uthor posted:Probably the place to ask: Thanks!
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Jan 29, 2024 20:33
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totalnewbie posted:Disclaimer: this is from my perspective an an engineer; trust actual good mechanics over me for actual practical advice. You're probably onto it, though. If a whole bunch of systems start alerting at the same time, it's not "to get your attention", it's because something common to those systems has failed. A single wheel speed sensor failure on my Canyon, for example, will set errors in stability control, traction control, and anti-lock braking, because all of those depend on individual wheel speeds to work properly. If it's not a sensor issue that's feeding all of those systems missing/bad data, then it could be a common power or ground issue on a circuit that feeds all of those.
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Jan 29, 2024 20:34
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IOwnCalculus posted:If it's not a sensor issue that's feeding all of those systems missing/bad data, then it could be a common power or ground issue on a circuit that feeds all of those. Yeah, I immediately thought it might be a wiring harness issue or something but that was just my initial reaction and I don't know poo poo so I kept my mouth shut about it lol 
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Jan 29, 2024 20:43
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wesleywillis posted:2009 Corolla. For some reason, that is a Toyota thing. My sister's '06 4Runner did the same thing. Bad O2 sensor set off the VSC & traction control lights as well. The only rationale that made sense is that yes, having another light come on in addition to the CEL would trigger a higher level of anxiety so it would maybe get dealt with sooner. It's a theory.
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Jan 29, 2024 21:22
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totalnewbie posted:Yeah, I immediately thought it might be a wiring harness issue or something but that was just my initial reaction and I don't know poo poo so I kept my mouth shut about it lol IOwnCalculus posted:You're probably onto it, though. If a whole bunch of systems start alerting at the same time, it's not "to get your attention", it's because something common to those systems has failed. A single wheel speed sensor failure on my Canyon, for example, will set errors in stability control, traction control, and anti-lock braking, because all of those depend on individual wheel speeds to work properly. Thats what seems to have happened the last time with this, ABS, VSC and TC lights came on at the same time. It was a wheel bearing out of spec, so the reluctor wheel(?) was not within the specified distances from the wheel speed sensor, tripping the various related lights. This happens to some of our Hino (toyota!!) trucks at work too. ABS light comes on and its not really the ABS so much as its the wheel bearings. The little wheel is not within the specified distances from the sensor. Makes perfect sense. Bad ground or power thingy tripping all of those makes sense too it just seems really weird that the failure of one thing would cause warning lights for a completely unrelated system to pop up. But on the otherhand \/\/\/\/\/ This dude and his power mirror/engine not shutting off thing in his chrysler product shows that manufacturers can do whatever the gently caress they want because gently caress you thats why. PainterofCrap posted:For some reason, that is a Toyota thing. My sister's '06 4Runner did the same thing. Bad O2 sensor set off the VSC & traction control lights as well. VALIDATION!!! YAY!! Quick google of "toyota oxygen sensor failure causes VSC light to come on" turns up the following from the RAV4ums: quote:I just replaced 2 of my O2 sensore on my 07 V6. When the O2 Sensor was bad the VSC, Engine, and 4WD lights were on in the dash. This is normal as the engine goes into shutdown mode and tries to be sure all power goes to the engine. Once the O2 sensors were replaced, all lights went out. quote:Last week I got the CEL-VSC-4WD lights on the dash and the cruise control stopped working. First Autozone, then my mechanic diagnosed it as Bank 2 Sensor 1 O2 sensor bad 4 runner forum: quote:Same thing just happened to me. My first thought was the TRAC and VSC somehow messed up. It turns out they light up as a default setting when the CEL comes on. E: Well at least the O2 sensor is cheaper to change than the wheel bearing.
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Jan 29, 2024 23:48
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sleepy gary posted:Built Ford Rough
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Jan 30, 2024 00:53
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Tackled the Forester again after work and the clutch still isn't cooperating. The reason I'm posting is while it was idling I got a CEL light. Pulling codes with the Cobb shows P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected) and a mysterious PFFFE (No description available). gently caress!  I was doing rounds around the car and trying to figure out how to get at the transmission at a later time but I never noticed any unusual sounds. Only thing I really noticed was that the exhaust note would occasionally and very subtly drop. But a misfire should be obvious, right? Researching that the PFFFE code (certainly that can't be a real code because it's look like it was counting in hexadecimal and is one off from hitting the cap) didn't bring up anything conclusive and just as much confusion. Also seems to go in hand with P0301. There was also suggestions to get a proper scanner to look at it since apparently Cobs aren't great at it or something? I have an old handheld scanner that's pretty basic but it did see two codes as well; one fault and one pending both of which say P0301. Also, while running it in the dark with street lighting, I can see the exhaust trailing out longer than I feel it should. Sure it's cold enough outside to see some of your breath but this was a lingering haze that I'm fairly sure is smoke. I guess that's where my oil has been going this whole time. This has escalated to the point where it has gone beyond my abilities and facility to fix this myself. I guess I'm going to have to knuckle down and have it towed to a shop to get if looked at. I can't even sell it at a loss because it can't go into gear unless the buyer has a car trailer.
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Jan 30, 2024 01:13
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Where are you? I worked on my neighbor's daughter's '08 Forester for the CEL issue and the issue was spark plug galleys & boots. There was a deep dive I ain't getting into here but the car had never had the valve-cover gaskets changed. The galley O-seals on the valve covers to the head were brittle AF, so it would leak oil in, wet the boots, and which would thus interfere with the current going to the plugs, weaken the spark (or occasionally short it completely) & it would trigger a P030_ misfire. After sorting that poo poo out I went with the best-rated aftermarket plug wire set. DO NOT DO THIS. They don't 'grab' the plug properly, which results in the plug boot popping off like a champagne cork. Result: misfire code. Don't believe it? https://i.imgur.com/USbNhjn.mp4 So be sure you have Subaru factory plug wires, that the boots are seated completely (you have to push on them, and HARD, before they snap on), and pull the plug on the misfiring cylinder & see if it's wet. By the way, your clutch issue sounds like the clutch disc may be rusted tight to the spline on the engine, which means it ain't moving and it may have to be hammered off. If there's any type of dust cover or inspection cover you can remove from the bellhousing to put eyes on the clutch forks while someone operates the pedal, do that. (E: there seems to be a lower dust cover, accessible from underneath, that should give a good view of the clutch & flywheel) If it is in fact rusted into place I would try the hail mary of hitting the spline with PB Blaster applied judiciously (as) directly (as possible) to the clutch disc at the spline via an applicator tube. Dripping that stuff on your clutch faces ain't great but, resultant choppy clutch action notwithstanding, it might break the clutch disc free so you at least would be able to get it moving for a while. On the PEEEEF / whatever code the common denominators I've found so far: - always paired with a #1 cylinder misfire - happens with tuners who are using modified aftermarket fuel injectors - has happened possibly with bad/old gas - might be an injector malfunction - tends to cause no problems, does not show up on its own, and goes away. Might be a placeholder for some weird malfunction the ECU can't read. Whatever it is, it hasn't resulted in anything besides puzzlement in the Subaru community. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Jan 30, 2024 |
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Jan 30, 2024 02:56
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I'm in Aberdeen, NJ which is in the northernmost area of the Jersey Shore. For the spark plugs and wires, the PO's sale ad doesn't mention it in the list of mods so I'll assume stock. As you probably know, shits crowded in there (more so with all the turbo crap) so I don't know if I can get at the plugs without loving it up. As for the PEEEEF code, old/bad gas sounds plausible since it has half a tank of 6+ month old 93 octane. I'm also suspecting some sort of overall fueling issue since I've had two preceding codes that could be tied to it. First was for the evap system/loose gas cap which as far as I could tell was on tight. Second was a running lean condition for bank 1 while driving to work but, after absentmindedly clearing it, it didn't show back up again when driving home. It was at that point that I stopped driving it and I couldn't bring myself to look into it further between apprehension of not liking what I find or didn't find, lousy weather, and just plain procrastination that I have a really bad habit of. However, that smoking has me the most concerned now since it shouldn't be doing that and could explain how I needed to put in 3/4 qt of oil every 150ish miles. That gets expensive but more so that it indicates a serious problem.
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Jan 30, 2024 04:30
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OK, you're not terrifically far away; I'm down by the Walt Whitman Bridge, near Woodbury, NJ. Lean Bank 1 means that there's a data mismatch between the upstream & downstream sensors on the driver's side, typically an exhaust leak if not a bad sensor. If your engine is in fact burning a quart of oil every few hundred miles the spark plugs may be getting oil-fouled. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Jan 30, 2024 |
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Jan 30, 2024 04:36
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How hard is it to fix the factory remote start on a 2019 Ford Escape? When I press the required button combo on the key fob, the car just honks. That's it. Do I need to take it to the dealership?
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Jan 30, 2024 05:27
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kid sinister posted:How hard is it to fix the factory remote start on a 2019 Ford Escape? When I press the required button combo on the key fob, the car just honks. That's it. Do I need to take it to the dealership? You have to determine what condition is not being met. it could be a door or hood not shut properly, or a sensor gone wonky. In general, it needs the hood, lift gate, lift gate glass, and doors shut properly, and no check engine light. Powershift fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Jan 30, 2024 |
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Jan 30, 2024 07:04
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Any of you guys have experience applying undercoating? Is it too messy to do in the driveway?
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Jan 30, 2024 17:16
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sleepy gary posted:Any of you guys have experience applying undercoating? Is it too messy to do in the driveway? Yes
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Jan 30, 2024 18:29
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Here's my AI stupid question. I am already aware that it is unwise to put money down on a lease as it's highly likely that if the vehicle is totaled you will not receive anything that you put down up front. Regarding trade-ins, how are those handled? Are they treated the same as a downpayment, so you could lose the value of that in a wreck? Or are there other options available at the dealership? Can they cut you a check for the trade-in and have the lease deal be quasi-separate? Is this a situation where a single pay lease may make sense (I have all the money up front) where a portion of it is covered by the trade-in value? My understanding is that on a single-pay lease you DO receive the unused portion of the downpayment back, as it acts like an escrow account? Appreciate any feedback on this. Looking to hit the easy button on my current vehicle and not deal with a private party sale. Most convenient would be the trade-in
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Jan 30, 2024 20:09
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Why on earth are you considering a lease instead of purchasing if you have the kind of money to pay for it all up front?
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Jan 31, 2024 03:38
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IOwnCalculus posted:Why on earth are you considering a lease instead of purchasing if you have the kind of money to pay for it all up front? I am aware leasing is generally a pure financially worse decision than buying. We have some changing lifestyle needs in 2-3 years so kicking the can on our next vehicle choice is desirable right now to get us there. Haven't settled 100% on leasing this vehicle either. Whatever path I go I have the cash up front and will either sip payments for a lease out of it or pay off the loan if a better deal on a purchase. Sometimes an easy button is worth the premium. To answer my own question, one dealer already responded that they'd just pay me cash for the trade in separate and structure the deal that way. Of course I'll negotiate the trade in and lease separate.
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Jan 31, 2024 03:46
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If you can afford to buy the car - buy the car. In 2-3 years, trade it in and get full value. If new, certified, or still under the manufacturer's warranty, anything major will be covered in the 2-3 years you own it plus you're not paying monthly lease payments. Trading the vehicle in will certainly be easier in a few years when you own it versus when you're just renting it from the dealer.
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Jan 31, 2024 03:59
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Mr. Nice! posted:If you can afford to buy the car - buy the car. In 2-3 years, trade it in and get full value. If new, certified, or still under the manufacturer's warranty, anything major will be covered in the 2-3 years you own it plus you're not paying monthly lease payments. Makes a lot of sense. I wasn't really considering such a short ownership as I am a bit hardwired to run cars for a decade that I own. Made sense to lease my ID4 as I don't qualify for the credit.
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Jan 31, 2024 04:24
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Yeah, even in your projected situation I don't see anywhere a lease actually comes out ahead if it's not to take advantage of an otherwise-unavailable tax credit. The best case scenario for the lease requires all of these to be true: *You no longer need the car exactly when the lease is over. *You drive as close to the allowed mileage as possible, without going over. *The car is in good enough condition to not get any extra charges when you turn it in. *The car is worth significantly less than expected on the used market. *You have no total-loss events anywhere along that timeline. There are still easy buttons if you own the car and need to be car-less for a while - even if the current crop of "we'll buy your car" dealers like Carvana go under in the next three years, regular dealerships have also gotten in on the habit of just buying your used car even if you aren't buying a car from them. But owning the car means if you drive it less, you get a little more back on resale, and if you drive it more you aren't paying a huge penalty per mile over. You choose when you sell the car, in case your planned major life event happens a few months sooner or later than expected. And with proper insurance coverage, you should be made whole if the car gets totaled.
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Jan 31, 2024 06:39
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Someone already mentioned it but P0300 is random misfire and P0301 is cylinder 1 misfire, P0302 is cylinder 2, etc.
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Jan 31, 2024 08:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, even in your projected situation I don't see anywhere a lease actually comes out ahead if it's not to take advantage of an otherwise-unavailable tax credit. Makes total sense and think I'll take leasing off the table when thinking about it this way. These financing arrangements make more sense when you don't have all the cash up front, but I do. So all I am out liquidity for the time period, but not a problem.
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Jan 31, 2024 13:37
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Did it anyway, put down a tarp. Nowadays I use raw linseed oil so I don't care if it gets onto the gravel or not.
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Jan 31, 2024 13:39
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His Divine Shadow posted:Did it anyway, put down a tarp. Nowadays I use raw linseed oil so I don't care if it gets onto the gravel or not. I have a ton of large cardboard sheets and plenty of tarps so I may still go for it. Why did you switch to raw linseed? What were you using before? How filthy do YOU get when you do the job? How long does it take you?
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Jan 31, 2024 14:14
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I used something called Dinitrol ML before, not an american product AFAIK. Which is very thin penetrating stuff, not the thicker bitumen stuff, I've never used that. Raw linseed oil is cheap and environmentally friendly, it has very good penetrating properties and it oxidizes and forms a protective layer over what. So it's like two products in one. Has to be applied in summertime though so it can oxidize in the heat.
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Jan 31, 2024 16:57
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TraderStav posted:Makes total sense and think I'll take leasing off the table when thinking about it this way. These financing arrangements make more sense when you don't have all the cash up front, but I do. So all I am out liquidity for the time period, but not a problem. If there's any sort of subsidized financing available, it may be worth taking that even if you have cash up front. With the kind of inflation going on now and the interest rate a savings account offers, I'd have a very hard time saying no to a 0% or 0.9% loan.
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Jan 31, 2024 17:25
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Another stupid Fiesta ST question. About a month ago I drove over the corner of a curb that I couldn’t see in a Popeye’s parking lot. I ran over it with both passenger side wheels, but I honestly can’t tell you what it looked like from the outside. My best guess is I clipped the corner. It’s one of those straight vertical curbs that’s like 4-5 inches high, so when I drove over it it was quite jarring, and not at all like the rounded ones that feel like going over an extra-steep speed bump. I wasn’t going more than like 5-10mph. I was pretty sure I’d see carnage but there is no visual evidence anywhere on the car. The tires haven’t deflated, there’s no rubbing or marking on the fenders or side skirt. Nothing scraped on anything. Is there a chance that I hosed my wheels or axles or alignment up? I live in New England where the streets are all garbage and I feel all of it on a good day, but I can’t get the idea out of my head that something’s extra not right. The Fiesta’s suspension is stiff and I’m on the really thin stock rims. I would assume that anything that could cause mechanical damage to the car or deformation to the rims would either blow the tire or at least cause it to deflate gradually/fail to seal, right? Am I going crazy? My brakes are noisy and they need replacement soon, but I’m convinced I’m hearing things coming from the back wheels that aren’t the brakes. Does any of that make sense? I asked a mechanic friend and he said that these cars are designed to take potholes at 90mph so it’s unlikely that I’d gently caress something metal up without losing a tire or two first, but I can’t shake the feeling that stuff’s wrong. This car’s got me chasing gremlins left and right.
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Jan 31, 2024 23:52
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I sincerely doubt you hurt a wheel at 5-10 mph. There's a slight chance you might have knocked the car our of alignment, but it seems unlikely. If your tires are holding air and your car tracks straight, I wouldn't worry about it. The next time your car is in the shop, ask them to throw it on the alignment rack.
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Jan 31, 2024 23:56
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wesleywillis posted:2009 Corolla. The answer I was given when my VSC and Traction Control lights came on and the steering went to poo poo on my 05 Tacoma was "sometimes when there's an error it shuts things off" so yeah I don't think they knew what the gently caress to do with errors on that era of Toyota.
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Feb 1, 2024 00:29
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trilobite terror posted:Another stupid Fiesta ST question. If the steering wheel is in its proper position when going straight, and it's tracking straight (not pulling one way or the other) then you're probably fine.
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Feb 1, 2024 02:01
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