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Jonny Nox posted:did you paint the rock or use a real one? You're not the first person to ask me that. To my shame, that's a failed attempt at doing airbrush marble. Task failed successfully. NinjaDebugger fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Feb 3, 2024 |
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Feb 3, 2024 02:21
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Regarding my obliterator missing an arm; I ended up going the simple route as I need this guy for a game next week:   Crab claw arm from a Possessed and some greenstuff = sorted!
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Feb 3, 2024 05:13
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The coat and the little face look great! I’d love to see you push the contrast on the feathers more. They might look dingy at first with washes or shading but just play around until you find something that fits and then bring the white highlights back out. Contrast (between colors and values, not Contrast TM) is what really sells the perception that it is a tiny little bird and not just a piece of plastic.
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Feb 3, 2024 05:58
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Thoughts on this desert camo scheme ? Tried to do a similar variation of a British WW2 desert camo scheme - https://www.flickr.com/photos/whsieh78/14154995300 Challenger X  Behemoth  Heimdall Ground Monitor  Vedette  In some ways, painting tanks is harder than mechs, because theres large flat panels that are hard to give detail/paneling/depth to. Also yellow sucks to paint. Had to do multiple coats to cover the black primer, and it was thick enough to obscure some of the finer details. Will probably invest in an airbrush soon. Saint Celestine fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Feb 3, 2024 |
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Feb 3, 2024 06:37
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my first quite rude thought of "well of course starting from that bad reconstruction of the caunter scheme ended up being a pain" aside... I think it does work on the models, if the main problem is painting the yellow I might start by trying swapping it for a cream or light tan shade? if you pick something similarly bright and saturated it should give much the same overall impression
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Feb 3, 2024 07:36
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mooshiga posted:The coat and the little face look great! I’d love to see you push the contrast on the feathers more. They might look dingy at first with washes or shading but just play around until you find something that fits and then bring the white highlights back out. Contrast (between colors and values, not Contrast TM) is what really sells the perception that it is a tiny little bird and not just a piece of plastic. I definitely will, I'm moving on to the rest of the party for now just so they're game ready but I am wanting to come back to this guy later and work on this. Speaking of, I got this fella done. The vague colour scheme was as per my player's choices, I would've taken it another direction personally but it's his dude :p    E: would certainly appreciate any feedback on weak spots or areas to touch up on it too! Double E: awe crap forgot to pencil in his lips 
Mederlock fucked around with this message at 08:42 on Feb 3, 2024 |
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Feb 3, 2024 07:43
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Assessor of Maat posted:my first quite rude thought of "well of course starting from that bad reconstruction of the caunter scheme ended up being a pain" aside... I think it does work on the models, if the main problem is painting the yellow I might start by trying swapping it for a cream or light tan shade? if you pick something similarly bright and saturated it should give much the same overall impression Yeah I think i need to find a paint with better coverage. Biggest pain is that these models are tiny. Its surprisingly hard to paint something about the size of a quarter.
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Feb 3, 2024 07:56
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robot stomp!   
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Feb 3, 2024 18:50
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A Challenger for every occassion!
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Feb 3, 2024 21:07
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Nebalebadingdong posted:robot stomp! This guy rips. Love the tiny scale osl on the fire
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Feb 3, 2024 23:43
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Hey y'all. I've been having a lot of trouble with Citadel's bone colored base paints over the past year or so. They all seem super viscous and cover horribly, unless I'm drybrushing, which makes purity seals and cloth 10x more challenging than it used to be.. Morghast Bone and Wraithbone have been the biggest offenders for me recently. I don't remember Citadel's Bleached Bone paint being this tough to use. Is there a trick to em? Am I not shaking the pots enough? Should I just switch to a Vallejo bone color?
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Feb 4, 2024 05:43
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Is very low humidity making dry brushing not very effective A Thing? It's bone dry where I live, and I find when I brush it off on paper towel or cardstock paper and then try to dry brush, it's so dry already that I don't seem to get the dry brush effect I see in videos. For reference I'm using good quality mini paints with a very soft makeup brush
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Feb 4, 2024 07:20
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Aliensandwich posted:Hey y'all. I've been having a lot of trouble with Citadel's bone colored base paints over the past year or so. They all seem super viscous and cover horribly, unless I'm drybrushing, which makes purity seals and cloth 10x more challenging than it used to be.. Morghast Bone and Wraithbone have been the biggest offenders for me recently. I don't remember Citadel's Bleached Bone paint being this tough to use. I’ve been using Army Painters Drake Tooth for bone as well as for the parchment on purity seals, and it takes about three thin coats. I’m not sure what the Vallejo equivalent is, though.
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Feb 4, 2024 07:33
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Aliensandwich posted:Is there a trick to em? Am I not shaking the pots enough? Should I just switch to a Vallejo bone color? I've never had this problem with any Citadel base paints, so I can't help you there. I can help with how I paint bone, though. I use Vallejo Model Color US Army Drab base, with drybrushed layers of VMC Dark Sand, sometimes finishing with some drybrushing or sponging of 2:1 Dark Sand and Liquitex Heavy Body Titanium White. Then I just apply a coat or two of Army Painter Speedpaint 2.0 Pallid Bone mixed ~1:1 with AP SP2.0 Medium.  For subs:
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Feb 4, 2024 08:00
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Mederlock posted:Is very low humidity making dry brushing not very effective A Thing? It's bone dry where I live, and I find when I brush it off on paper towel or cardstock paper and then try to dry brush, it's so dry already that I don't seem to get the dry brush effect I see in videos. I've seen some people use a damp towel or sponge instead of paper towels or cardstock which should alleviate the drying issue. Ideally you want to wipe off excess paint instead of water
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Feb 4, 2024 08:17
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Just to check- This is best done with an airbrush and stencils right? I'm not sure how big that model is, but I seriously doubt my ability to freehand that on battletech scale 6mm tanks that are the size of a quarter.
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Feb 4, 2024 08:17
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Mederlock posted:Is very low humidity making dry brushing not very effective A Thing? It's bone dry where I live, and I find when I brush it off on paper towel or cardstock paper and then try to dry brush, it's so dry already that I don't seem to get the dry brush effect I see in videos. Don’t use paper towel, what little moisture there is in the paint is instantly removed by being absorbed so when you come to paint on the figure you’re just smearing sticky pigment and instantly getting chalk. Advise checking out the Artis Opus channel on YouTube to see how to dry brush well. You can keep using the makeup brushes tho
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Feb 4, 2024 08:47
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Best way to knock the dab of paint off the brush/even it out is to swipe it across the back of your thumb on the opposite hand a few times. Doesn't pull off all the moisture like already mentioned, the texture of your skin lets you see how heavy it will lay on, and quite literally to an extent lets you feel how saturated the brush is.
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Feb 4, 2024 09:20
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I use a 40mm zone mortalis base as a texture pallet to wipe off excess paint for dry brushing. As for bone I keep it simple; base with white and use AP Pallid Bone speed paint, sometimes two coats.
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Feb 4, 2024 15:49
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Yeast posted:Don’t use paper towel, what little moisture there is in the paint is instantly removed by being absorbed so when you come to paint on the figure you’re just smearing sticky pigment and instantly getting chalk. It definitely changed my drybrushing game when I learned that the brush shouldn't actually be dry. You want it just damp enough that the paint isn't flowing off it, but there's still enough moisture that you get a smoother coat that isn't all chalky. Of course, in certain circumstances the chalkiness can be desirable, like when I'm drybrushing streets or sidewalks for urban bases, because that gives them a little bit of texture that looks good once it's given a wash; but perhaps not so much for skin or clothes. 
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Feb 4, 2024 16:01
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I'm still getting used to using an airbrush, when I'm not using the compressor (the cheap one with a tank off amazon, this particular one has "Timbertech abpst08" on the side) should I vent the pressure from the tank or can I just leave it sit pressurised?
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Feb 4, 2024 16:07
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Leaving compressed air in the tank can cause condensation which causes rust and eventual failure.
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Feb 4, 2024 16:52
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Yeah pulling the plug and hearing the POPpppsssssszzzzssssss is the best part!
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Feb 4, 2024 16:58
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SiKboy posted:I'm still getting used to using an airbrush, when I'm not using the compressor (the cheap one with a tank off amazon, this particular one has "Timbertech abpst08" on the side) should I vent the pressure from the tank or can I just leave it sit pressurised? Always vent the pressure from the tank when you're done, to prevent rusting from condensation.
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Feb 4, 2024 17:07
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Saint Celestine posted:Just to check- It's a 1/35th kit, and I guess you could do it with a regular brush, but they absolutely used a ton of masks. Digital camo on tiny things is a lot easier, because you just do some pointillist painting freehand - cover that thing with dots in the approximate right rectilinear configuration and let arms-length focus do the hard part for you.
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Feb 4, 2024 18:17
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poop chute posted:I’ve been using Army Painters Drake Tooth for bone as well as for the parchment on purity seals, and it takes about three thin coats. I’m not sure what the Vallejo equivalent is, though. Cease to Hope posted:I've never had this problem with any Citadel base paints, so I can't help you there. Cool cool. Thanks for the input. I'll have to try these out.
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Feb 4, 2024 18:26
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Finally finished this amazing bastard of a model.  
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Feb 4, 2024 23:19
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 Teaching a newbie to paint: my Scot warlord on the left, his Mandalorian commando on the right
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Feb 4, 2024 23:22
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Nice work everyone. I actually got something done! Not good, but done. Especially nice feeling, since I've had the Pariahs for... 16 years? And Trayzn was brand new at the time (it's actually my second Trayzin, since the first one I bought was more air bubble than resin. I has to hear a schpiel from the GW customer service agent that I might just not be used to the quality of Finecast, and the benefits of liquid green stuff).  
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Feb 5, 2024 05:17
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Joining a Saga escalation league soon, so here's my first Anglo-Dane, the big man himself, Harold Godwinson
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Feb 5, 2024 06:06
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I love the red and white shield. So good. Also, what did you use for your grass? It’s really nicely scaled for the size of the model.
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Feb 5, 2024 15:34
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Arcturas posted:I love the red and white shield. So good. Also, what did you use for your grass? It’s really nicely scaled for the size of the model. Thanks! The grass is Army Painter brand Battlefield Field Grass. It'd look better if I had an actual static applicator, but it gets the job done.
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Feb 5, 2024 15:40
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Okay, style question. I want to try for something like this: It's a style I've seen from CMON, and I don't know of any youtube types who paint like this and have tutorials. Anyone have any suggestions? It's basically an almost-but-not-quite cell shading technique. What's really interesting to me is that black lining is easy and looks great from far away but is usually ghastly close up. This seems to have really solid blending up from the lining to the shadows, and I'm trying to think of how to do that in a way that wouldn't take a lifetime per mini. It's also a promotional image so it wouldn't shock me at all if this is at least partially photoshopped. Ohthehugemanatee fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Feb 5, 2024 |
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Feb 5, 2024 16:34
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I don't really see cell shading, but I'm on my phone and can only zoom in so much. It just looks like if Richard Grey did some heavy panel lining with a pure black between color sections.
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Feb 5, 2024 16:49
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The shading on the miniatures makes them look flat from the fixed perspective of the diorama.
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Feb 5, 2024 16:51
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Those are from Darkest Dungeon, and look like thry’re trying to match the style of the game - 2d portraits with bold black lines, desaturated colors and strong light to wash things out a little. I can’t offer you tips, except that if you didn’t know they were from the game you should study it some, and recognize it’s mostly for on flat angle.
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Feb 5, 2024 16:59
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what I could find for Mignola style mini painting. Just use less black https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OeEbv_Ramk oh, duh. I should have just searched Darkest Dungeon miniatures: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0wc5q51UPA Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Feb 5, 2024 |
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Feb 5, 2024 17:49
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Ah, the Darkest Dungeon Kickstarter. Years behind schedule, the devs keep asking for more money, and refunds are being doled out at the speedy pace of 2 people a month so the company doesn't go insolvent overnight. First, and last, kickstarter I'll ever be involved with.
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Feb 5, 2024 19:05
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Some kickstarters are actually good.
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Feb 5, 2024 19:09
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Kickstarters for established mini companies are bullshit, they're literally there to capitalise on FOMO. I got massively soured on the latest Karol Rudyk one, where he was selling limited-edition STLs for 20 euros each.
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Feb 5, 2024 19:33
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