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So I'm in a bit of a confusing situation here, and the answer is probably obvious to you guys so here goes. 2013 Hyundai Elantra. Registration is expired, but I can't renew it because it won't pass inspection. It won't pass inspection because the ABS module and the housing/casing or whatever around it is bad/broken, and the module itself is occasionally leaking brake fluid. And I can't fix that because apparently literally every mechanic I live near doesnt have the module or casing/housing, and all of the dealers they've tried calling don't have it either. Coincidentally, there is an active recall on the exact make and model/year of my car for this exact issue, but it's been listed as "Remedy not available yet" since it came out in September, which I suspect may be related to the reason no one can find the parts I need to have my car fixed. What can I do about this? My car hasn't had power steering for months because of this, and the occasional patch of brake fluid on my driveway is worrying, but I don't have another car and I need to get to work. If I get pulled over I'm likely hosed on the registration, despite having the money to pay for it ages ago.
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# ? Feb 1, 2024 17:11 |
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# ? Jun 4, 2024 07:57 |
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If it makes you feel any better the recall is just to jam a smaller fuse in there so if/when it leaks on something sparky it doesn't cause a fire.
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# ? Feb 1, 2024 17:33 |
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opengl posted:If it makes you feel any better the recall is just to jam a smaller fuse in there so if/when it leaks on something sparky it doesn't cause a fire. It doesnt even stop the brake fluid from leaking?
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# ? Feb 1, 2024 17:38 |
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https://www.safetyresearch.net/kore...0to%20a%20fire.quote:You might be thinking that they would address the enduring problems with its ABS/HECU modules by simply replacing all of the older modules with newly designed modules.
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# ? Feb 1, 2024 18:57 |
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Christ. I'm getting a new car ASAP, that is ridiculous. I guess current one might get half a trade in now if I'm lucky, as there's no way I can get it fixed anytime soon anyway.
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# ? Feb 1, 2024 19:12 |
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Umbreon posted:Christ. I'm getting a new car ASAP, that is ridiculous. I guess current one might get half a trade in now if I'm lucky, as there's no way I can get it fixed anytime soon anyway. If considering a MY23 Hyundai, should I be alarmed? My take has been that they had a bunch of legacy problems but have gotten over a lot of them. Appreciate any feedback.
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# ? Feb 1, 2024 19:25 |
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PainterofCrap posted:If the steering wheel is in its proper position when going straight, and it's tracking straight (not pulling one way or the other) then you're probably fine. Also if you're on a flat road. IME old roads have a tendency to have a more pronounced arc towards the gutters and I'm assuming New England has a lot of that. I was helping a former friend test-drive some cars and it took until the second car was pulling to realize that the road the dealership was on had a huge arc in it from side to side.
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# ? Feb 1, 2024 23:54 |
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I like an idiot let my brother whose a terrible driver borrow my 2019 Silverado 1500. He was driving in the snow and here's his report (paraphrased and edited for clarity) "I was stopped at a light and decided to put the car in 4WD. I tried to shift it to 4WDH (I dont know why, it was icy but he wasnt stuck) and the knob got "stuck" in neutral. I realized I wanted 4WDL, stopped the car and shifted it down to 4WDL. When I went from went to make the change it got "stuck" in the neutral for a bit again." Then he got it in 4WDL and was on his way. He told me the engine made "grinding" noises and revved when it got jammed. Both times. I took it for a quick test drive on some unoccupied roads near me and everything appears to be normal except I "feel" the car a bit more. Almost like im driving on a light layer of gravel even though its p smooth pavement. The next day I did the same thing and it appeared to be back to normal then would get the "gravelly" feel for a few seconds, on and off. Do you guys think something is wrong? Any possible DIY fixes? Am i being paranoid? Should I just take it to a mechanic and if so it safe to drive there or should I tow it? Im not getting any sort of warning lights or signs anything else is wrong besides the rumble/gravel feeling on and off. Edit: to clarify, the rumble is only a feeling in the wheel, not an actual noise.
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# ? Feb 2, 2024 02:43 |
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Why did he think he wanted low range, was he rock crawling.
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# ? Feb 2, 2024 05:43 |
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bird with big dick posted:Why did he think he wanted low range, was he rock crawling. he didnt actually want low range, he just wanted 4WD and didnt know the difference. on the actual car it says 4 (arrow up) or 4 (Arrow down) and i guess he got confused. Hes not a car guy at all.
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# ? Feb 2, 2024 15:54 |
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Anyone in here have experience with truck tires? I have a '73 f250 4wd, and it's got 33x12.5 on 16.5r wheels/tires. One of the tires has a slow leak and i went to fill it recently but instead it decided to demount itself. The bad part is the tires are 15 years old, though not very worn. No one will remount this tire as its so old, understandably. Also, no one apparently makes new tires in this size anymore. I've called like 8 different tire places and no one seems to know what combination of wheels and tires will fit on this truck. I finally got a hold of a fellow at a 4x4 shop, and he recommended that the stock wheels on lmc truck should work with the metric tires linked below. Some of the tire places i talked to were saying no way to do anything in 16r, i'd need 17 inch wheels now and corresponding tires, but when the ones we picked came in they don't fit. Do the 16 inch wheels work with the LT305/70R16 tires noted below? Help me tire expert goons, you're my only hope. https://www.lmctruck.com/1973-79-ford/wheels/chrome-modular-wheels https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...romCompare1=yes Edit: here's the stupid truck
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# ? Feb 2, 2024 18:44 |
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Found this relevant discussion: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1694058-anyone-still-making-16-5-diameter-tires.html Seems like Interco has a variety of options which Summit Racing stocks but the closest thing to a "normal" tire in their lineup is the VorTrac LT. Everything else is in the Super Swamper family. Unless you're attached to the OEM wheels I'd go with changing to 17", apparently 16" wheels can have fitment issues depending on offset.
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# ? Feb 2, 2024 19:19 |
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Oooo thanks that's good info, my googling was just for the tires and such, and I swear I've seen that ford truck forum before. Shop i have the truck at now is trying to find an 8 lug 17" wheel that fits with the 33x12.5 17r tires, but the newer 17 wheels available seem to have different offsets that rub on control arms and such. I figured the same wheel in 16 would have mostly same offsets.
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# ? Feb 2, 2024 20:43 |
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That truck shouldn't have control arms but rather a Dana 44 on leaf-springs. 16.5s can be had but they almost universally suck now. Go for a 17 to be futureproof. It shouldn't rub with 33s but if the tire does rub the leaf spring the knuckle has a bolt for adjusting the steering lock. Adjust the lock until the tire is 1/8-1/4" clear of the spring that way there's no possible contact when loaded. Be very aware of your truck's hub diameter. It shouldn't be an issue with the Dana 44 but the 60s run larger hubs than the other domestics equipped with that axle. Not all OEM takeoffs will just bolt on. Most anything aftermarket should be fine. To get the right backspacing, do some measuring. No, do more. It doesn't hurt to make a jig out of w/e is laying around to get a physical representation of different offsets. I'm running 17s from Method on a kingpin 60 of similar width to your vintage of 44. I did adjust the steering lock bolts a little but the truck is on 37s.
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# ? Feb 3, 2024 05:23 |
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TraderStav posted:If considering a MY23 Hyundai, should I be alarmed? My take has been that they had a bunch of legacy problems but have gotten over a lot of them. Appreciate any feedback. I wouldn't. Google theta recall and theta class action lawsuit. Plus the thefts. And whatever that abs cluster gently caress is. I know 2 people with blown up kia's at about 120k miles and a third that's about to go. Replacement engines are texa$ because there aren't enough of them.
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# ? Feb 4, 2024 13:44 |
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Even if theyve solved the mechanical issues theyre still a lovely company fighting the customers theyve wronged.
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# ? Feb 4, 2024 16:31 |
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Appreciate the feedback. We test drove the Sante Fe on Friday and it's just not going to work for us anyway for other reasons.
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# ? Feb 4, 2024 16:41 |
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Powershift posted:Even if theyve solved the mechanical issues theyre still a lovely company fighting the customers theyve wronged. Not to stan for Hyundai, who I have my own issues with, but this is every auto company
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# ? Feb 4, 2024 19:06 |
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also every non-auto company
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# ? Feb 4, 2024 21:49 |
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Its particularly bad with Hyundai/Kia though, maybe it's been better in recent years but my ownership of a Veloster Turbo was filled with bullshit mostly due to dealer incompetence and firing the wrong parts through the parts cannon. The dealer network still seems to be stuck in the "bad days" of Hyundai/Kia and they seem to know it since their luxury marque Genesis operates separately from their dealer network (or at least it used to). We've had much better experiences at the local Subaru and Honda dealers, not to mention at a luxury dealer like Porsche.
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# ? Feb 5, 2024 19:15 |
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We've got some crank no start issues on our Mazda 5. It's a 2012 with 160k and has mostly been trouble free. I had to get it jumped twice in the past 7-8 months, not sure if its bad luck or something is up with the car. This weekend the car was working fine. I needed to swap spaces with our other car, so I started it up, moved it from the garage onto the street and left it there for about two days. Last night I started it up, swapped back spots, and left it in the garage overnight. This morning my wife tried to start the car and I hear the car cranking but it doesn't start. She drove our newer car out to work today (which has our battery jumper in it..). I tested the battery with a multimeter and it said 12.3V. I thought it was enough, but maybe it's not generating enough amps at crank to allow the car to start? Not long ago I checked the battery charging while the alternator was on and it was at spec (14.2V?). I don't think it's the starter as I hear cranking, maybe the alternator is bad? It's buried in the rear of the engine bay and I have no idea how to test it (or if its even possible) while the car is off anyway. I just find it weird that the car wouldn't start after "only" two starts without real driving taking place. I'm hoping once my wife comes home I'll be able to jump it with our battery jumper. If that's the case, is there something up with our alternator? The last time this happened one of the map lights was still on. I didn't see anything drawing power this time and there's no aftermarket audio to be weary of. The only thing is that we're dealing with storms, but when looking at the engine bay in the garage I don't see any obvious water intrusion. FWIW the battery is an Interstate from Costco I bought not even a year ago. Terminal connections are clean and on tight.
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# ? Feb 5, 2024 20:21 |
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So, just to be clear...the battery has been jumped a couple of times within 8 months and recently a map/dome lamp has been left on? And short moves from spot to spot. Battery is toast, it happens. They are cranked out of a few locations. You are paying for the warranty, not the quality of construction. Not familiar with Mazda, but given what you said hopefully they provided accessible jump points somewhere under the hood.
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# ? Feb 5, 2024 20:40 |
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Looking at a used 2014 Lexus ES 350 that was originally purchased in California. 50k miles. Stupid question: are cars sold in California made with different parts to meet their stricter emissions regulations, and if so could it be difficult to source parts in the Northeast? The only things I know about the engine are its a V6 and not a hybrid. Any other advice about this potential purchase is welcome. Thank you.
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# ? Feb 5, 2024 21:04 |
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kreeningsons posted:Looking at a used 2014 Lexus ES 350 that was originally purchased in California. 50k miles. Stupid question: are cars sold in California made with different parts to meet their stricter emissions regulations, and if so could it be difficult to source parts in the Northeast? The only things I know about the engine are it’s a V6 and not a hybrid. Any other advice about this potential purchase is welcome. Thank you. If a car needs different equipment to meet California emissions, then there can be differences. I'm only aware of there being more O2 sensors, but there might be more spefialized equipment depending on the car. From the factory, I think all 2014 ES350s were california emissions-compliant. Where you might run into trouble is if the Catalytic converter has been replaced at any point. There are many third-party catalytic converters which are not California emissioms compliant. I don't know for 100% sure, but I imagine you won't have any specific issues sourcing parts just for a california car. I had a "California-emissions" WJ and I live in NY. Many states default to the California emission standard. DildenAnders fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Feb 5, 2024 |
# ? Feb 5, 2024 21:32 |
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DildenAnders posted:If a car needs different equipment to meet California emissions, then there can be differences. I'm only aware of there being more O2 sensors, but there might be more spefialized equipment depending on the car. From the factory, I think all 2014 ES350s were california emissions-compliant. Where you might run into trouble is if the Catalytic converter has been replaced at any point. There are many third-party catalytic converters which are not California emissioms compliant. I think this will only get OP into trouble if they want to move the car back to California. If they're buying a California car and want to keep it in the Northeast, I don't think there's any reason they'd get in trouble for having an aftermarket cat as long as it was legal in their state.
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# ? Feb 5, 2024 21:53 |
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Yeah that is good info, thank you. The car will be kept in the Northeast so there shouldnt be an issue with it outperforming the regulations in the 49 states other than California. And if its likely just the O2 sensors and catalytic converter, then that doesnt sound like too much to worry about, and there would be no need to replace it with a like for like California approved one should it ever need replacing.
kreeningsons fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Feb 5, 2024 |
# ? Feb 5, 2024 22:30 |
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A good chunk of the NE is on Cali emissions anyway https://afdc.energy.gov/laws/california-standards
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# ? Feb 5, 2024 23:19 |
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Buckle-up: absolute novice questions here. It's getting close to time for me to get a new (to me) car, and I've got an inheritance coming to pay for one. However, I have no loving clue how to start looking. I have a vague idea that I'd like something newish, but I don't need to drive something brand new off the lot, if I could even afford that. Max budget is about $35,000 CAD. I could go a little higher for something ideal. I inherited my current car (2006 Ford Focus station wagon) back in 2008 love it to death, but I've never been a part of the purchasing process with a car. I'm also a ladygoon and very concerned that I'm just a walking mark to be taken advantage of. None of my IRL friends are super car savvy. I can bring a male with me when I shop to deter the worst of it, but ultimately I'm at the mercy of the sales people in a way I hate. 1) Where are good places to look for new-ish cars? Should I be looking at local dealers? Rental places? Anywhere else? 2) How do you start picking models of car to look at? They don't make my car anymore, so I can't just buy the same thing again. I am overwhelmed with how many models are out there and how everyone has an opinion on them. 3) Would it be reasonable to try to hire someone to help me not get exploited? I was thinking I might call the shop who does my car maintenance and see if they've got anyone who'd wingman me through this for $40/hr or something? 4) Financing? I have some vague idea that you get better deals if you finance rather than buy outright. 5) Electric? I have no idea how those even work and if they're a good idea for the kind of driving I do. This is all pretty overwhelming, but parts are starting to fall off my old Warhorse, so I think we're getting near its retirement. If you've got any suggestions of models to look at, I'm all ears. I want something relatively small (I don't need an SUV!) that I can still cram four friends in for road trips. I think Minis are adorable, but probably too small for my needs. I really like my station wagon, but I'm not locked into another one. I expect it to be another car I'll drive into the dust, so something with good maintainability. Most of my driving is recreational in a mild Canadian climate, but I do mountain road trips at least a couple times a year.
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# ? Feb 6, 2024 00:45 |
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Pixelante posted:Buckle-up: absolute novice questions here. Honda Civic hatchback 2024 Prius/Prius Prime EV option: Chevrolet Bolt/Bolt EUV Mazda 3 Hatch, Mazda CX-5/CX-50 Toyota Corolla or Camry Hatch If youre buying used youll have a lot more options like Honda Fits, etc. Depends on how far back you want to look. Used cars are still pricey nowadays but prices are coming down and are expected to come down more across 2024 A Mini is really nice but the post-2012 ones are basically BMWs which might be a bit less on the drive into the ground and forget about it side, but they are fun.
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# ? Feb 6, 2024 00:53 |
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Pixelante posted:Buckle-up: absolute novice questions here. Theres a car buying thread in A/T where you might find some good advice. Since you mention mountains, I'll assume you're a B.C. or Alberta goon. There might be a goon in your area willing to be your wingman for something like this. I've use a car buying service for my last two (new) car purchases. It took a lot of the hassle out of it. Thats something you could look in to as well. In my case I paid 150 bucks or something like that and told them what I wanted and got a price and phone number. It was pretty easy. Girls can negotiate and might be more inclined to call out bullshit from a sales person too so if you have a girlfriend or co worker etc who is fairly savvy at poo poo you might talk to them too.
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# ? Feb 6, 2024 01:20 |
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Pixelante posted:Buckle-up: absolute novice questions here. If you're in the lower mainland there is a pretty good group of goons here who I would be comfortable with asking for help, there's a discord. Feel free to PM me and I can find an invite link.
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# ? Feb 6, 2024 01:27 |
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Bank posted:We've got some crank no start issues on our Mazda 5. So the plot thickens (maybe?). I had my battery jumper connected but that made zero difference in how the crank sounded. It sounded like it was choking and I could hear the engine almost turn over but it wouldn't do it. I cranked it another 2-3 times but this time with my foot on the accelerator and it eventually turned over. There was white exhaust smoke all over the place but once that cleared the car in about a minute everything seemed fine. Just in case, I drove it over to a mechanic to check out. They'll either tell me nothing is wrong with it or find some random issues. I trust these guys so I should find out in the next day or two.
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# ? Feb 6, 2024 01:27 |
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wesleywillis posted:Theres a car buying thread in A/T where you might find some good advice. Since you mention mountains, I'll assume you're a B.C. or Alberta goon. I looked up car brokers and found a few options that come highly rated, but the websites look expensive as gently caress. Might be worth seeing if they help with things in my price range, though. trilobite terror posted:
Thanks for a starting place to look. I don't really pay attention to car models when I'm driving, so I don't even know which ones are the regular car sized ones and which ones are massive SUVs. VelociBacon posted:If you're in the lower mainland there is a pretty good group of goons here who I would be comfortable with asking for help, there's a discord. Feel free to PM me and I can find an invite link. I'm in Victoria across the water. It wouldn't be absurd to buy a car from the mainland, but I'll have to do my hunt from home. I think I know most of the Vic goons and I doubt any of them are car experts. Though Planeguy did go to all the effort of importing a Japanese minivan so maybe I'll take him with me.
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# ? Feb 6, 2024 05:12 |
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Pixelante posted:I'm in Victoria across the water. It wouldn't be absurd to buy a car from the mainland, but I'll have to do my hunt from home. I think I know most of the Vic goons and I doubt any of them are car experts. Though Planeguy did go to all the effort of importing a Japanese minivan so maybe I'll take him with me. planeguy knows about cars
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# ? Feb 6, 2024 05:27 |
Hi hello. Im getting a new car for the first time in 19 years, a brand new Civic Touring, and want to know what (if any) assistance features you all keep turned on, or off. My Scion doesnt have anything so all the lane keep/adaptive cruise/etc. is new to me. Intellectually I dont like the idea of multiple systems that could fight me in driving the car but Im willing to be convinced.
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# ? Feb 7, 2024 01:19 |
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Anno posted:Hi hello. Im getting a new car for the first time in 19 years, a brand new Civic Touring, and want to know what (if any) assistance features you all keep turned on, or off. My Scion doesnt have anything so all the lane keep/adaptive cruise/etc. is new to me. Intellectually I dont like the idea of multiple systems that could fight me in driving the car but Im willing to be convinced. Try them and see which ones you like and which ones you don't. Some people find that stuff incredibly annoying, others love it. There's a lot of personal preference.
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# ? Feb 7, 2024 01:26 |
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Deteriorata posted:Try them and see which ones you like and which ones you don't. Some people find that stuff incredibly annoying, others love it. There's a lot of personal preference. This. I was surprised at the sensor stuff that was included & on with my 2019 Rogue. I was accustomed to having a rear-radar sound avoidance, but not a monitor. Got used to that (although I have to be vigilant in my non-equipped cars the first time I'm backing up). Never got used to the lane-marker signals...but there are little (silent) blind-spot indicator lights under the door mirror stalks that have been a life-saver. Collision avoidance hasn't really been needed; I did test it, and sure as hell it'll throw the brakes on if I don't respond quickly enough. It'll sort itself out for you
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# ? Feb 7, 2024 01:36 |
Oh yeah I'll go mess around with everything. Just wanted to know what other people thought and maybe gets a heads up if there's like a universally hated one.
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# ? Feb 7, 2024 01:47 |
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I hate lane assist in every car I've tried. My mom's Honda keeps trying to turn me into the wall when it gets confused by a shadow at an underpass I use frequently.
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# ? Feb 7, 2024 02:18 |
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# ? Jun 4, 2024 07:57 |
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Uthor posted:I hate lane assist in every car I've tried. My mom's Honda keeps trying to turn me into the wall when it gets confused by a shadow at an underpass I use frequently. Yeah, lane assist is my personal peeve. It's extremely unnerving to have the steering wheel with a mind of its own. I hate it. OTOH, there are others who have said how much they love it. Hence you have to try it and see.
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# ? Feb 7, 2024 02:49 |