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ryanrs posted:If it's better and cheaper, link it.
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Jan 23, 2024 01:39
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Yeah I'm sure in a year or so after they're done establishing their brand, quality will slide. Right now I'm pretty happy with the Vevor branded vise, tube bender, drill drawer and English wheel I've gotten in the last 4 months or so Some knock off vevor akro bins arrived too they seem higher quality than the harbor freight ones I bought over Christmas
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Jan 23, 2024 01:40
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shame on an IGA posted:Relabel The five drawer model I linked to on the previous page comes with matching blank labels for exactly this purpose
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Jan 23, 2024 01:42
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Oh hell yeah because I have a bunch of metric tooling and those various drawers are gonna need new labels.
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Jan 23, 2024 02:22
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Bay area metal goons, do you have a shop you can recommend for making small one-off parts? We recently got a manual tube bender we're using for small diameter copper tubing, and we need a custom bending die in a small bending radius, something like this in alloy steel.  The part is really simple; simple enough that my go-to shop wouldn't be interested in a job this small.
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Jan 26, 2024 02:50
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For hollow, copper tubing* you could probably just 3D print it in virtually any material** with an infill set at 98% Metal will last you longer, obviously, but you can get it 3D printed today * I know tubing by definition is hollow, just clarifying it probably wouldn't work well for rod **That's not TPU
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Jan 26, 2024 03:21
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Hadlock posted:For hollow, copper tubing* you could probably just 3D print it in virtually any material** with an infill set at 98% I'm going to try 3d printing, but I don't have high hopes for it. The reason I need this die is to bend 3/8" tube to a very tight radius (~1.5 diameters, or 5/8"). Bending to 1-1/8" was no problem, but the tube crushed itself to poo poo bending to a 3/4". I filled the tube with sand to support it internally, which worked but increased the bending force substantially. https://www.trick-tools.com/HB1-Small-Diameter-Hand-Tubing-Bender-18425 The bending die is clamped through the central bore to a platform by a flathead screw, so it's supported at 90 degrees to the clamping force, not braced directly. I'll try 3d printing one, but this needs to survive 150+ bends for this project, many of which are 180 degrees, and I doubt it will hold up.
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Jan 26, 2024 05:36
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Oh I hadn't considered filling it with sand Maybe try printing one and see if it works. If that works print 38 more overnight (1 or 50 can print overnight, probably) and then just swap it out every 4 bends? For sand filled I'd go with abs or petg but I'm just wild guessing. Tangentially I've seen some guys have good luck doing bead roller dies for 3003 aluminum was looking at doing the same but haven't had the opportunity yet on my project
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Jan 26, 2024 05:47
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You got a sketch? I think I have a couple ~1.25" slugs in 1144 or some other non-mild steel, would need to poke thru the bins For copper tube even aluminum would likely be 100% fine until you dropped it or bonked it with a tool or something Lathespin.gif fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Jan 26, 2024 |
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Jan 26, 2024 07:23
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HolHorsejob posted:Bay area metal goons, do you have a shop you can recommend for making small one-off parts? Send it straight to China using a broker like 3D Hubs or Xometry. There are a number of others. Upload your Solidworks SLDPRT or STEP file, and get an instant quote. Every time I've used these places to offshore 1-off CNC parts, they have over-delivered wrt quality. For example, I uploaded a this part as a raw STEP file, no drawing, no tolerances or surface finish, just default non-cosmetic / economy anodizing:   Cost was $240, about half was for embellishments (the 'R' and anodizing). Without those cosmetic bits, I think the base cost was more like $130. This was from Hubs.
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Jan 26, 2024 07:23
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Seriously, how did they put the brushed finish on the bottom of the cavity?
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Jan 26, 2024 07:37
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NewFatMike posted:Vevor make pretty decent kit, or they put their name on alright stuff at least. I have been very happy with all my Vevor stuff; that comes with an enormous * in that it was the same price or cheaper than what I can get at harbor freight; and I'm expecting "good" out of HF's (in?)famous good/better/best methodology For stuff that's largely just welded steel or cast iron or whatever, 6" bench vise, tube bender, etc; Vevor is rapidly becoming my go to brand, especially since it shows up at my door and I don't have to schlep across town to HF HF Bauer, especially any products announced in the last couple years, is a massive step up in quality for... a 20% premium? Haven't bought any of their Hercules or icon premium stuff yet I've been seeing a lot of "Wen" branded stuff, seems... Ok? Maybe half of quarter step down from Bauer
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Jan 26, 2024 12:33
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Hadlock posted:I've been seeing a lot of "Wen" branded stuff, seems... Ok? Maybe half of quarter step down from Bauer Wen’s benchtop drill presses (and likely some other stuff I haven’t noticed) are pit mainstays in combat robotics. A buddy of mine loves his. The only reason I don’t have one is because I wanted grizzly green in my shop.
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Jan 26, 2024 14:12
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ryanrs posted:Seriously, how did they put the brushed finish on the bottom of the cavity? you sure they didn't ream a through hole and then interference fit a plug in there
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Jan 26, 2024 14:25
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Ha ha, yes. It's a block plate at the bottom of an A/C refrigerant pipe. If it didn't form a hermetic seal, it'd weep PAG oil. (It replaced a welded plate that had some porosity, and therefore weeped PAG oil.)
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Jan 26, 2024 17:02
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Cast iron has 2-4 times as much carbon as high-carbon steel. 1) does that mean it can be heat treated and quench hardened like high-carbon steel? 2) can you make a sharp -- albeit brittle -- knife out of cast iron, and will it hold an edge?
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Feb 2, 2024 03:27
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Cast iron isn't steel. On cooling, the high levels of carbon turn into stuff like graphite flakes and brittle iron carbide. The resulting composition and grain structure are very different from those used in knife steels. The edge will chip and break very easily.
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Feb 2, 2024 03:55
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Sagebrush posted:Cast iron has 2-4 times as much carbon as high-carbon steel. https://dl.asminternational.org/handbooks/edited-volume/49/chapter-abstract/604956/Heat-Treating-of-Cast-Irons?redirectedFrom=fulltext
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Feb 2, 2024 04:10
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Sagebrush posted:Cast iron has 2-4 times as much carbon as high-carbon steel. There are a bunch of different formulations of cast iron and the way that, say, a cast iron skillet is formulated and heat treated is quite different from that of, say, a cast iron camshaft in an engine. I'm sure an experienced metallurgist could come up with a cast iron part that nominally holds a sharp edge better than a piece of soft copper while being less brittle than glass-hard quenched non-annealed steel (like a drill bit, ever snapped one of those? They're quite fragile), but it's definitely not a good material for doing that.
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Feb 2, 2024 07:57
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If I were going to make a viral knife YouTube video to explore that topic it kind of like like "malleable cast iron" might be the best place to start, but that's entirely by reading the Wikipedia descriptions. Also your heat treating process is like, 900c for multiple days so good luck with that
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Feb 2, 2024 08:12
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"I made a SUPER SHARP KNIFE from this CAST IRON PAN and then THIS HAPPENED"
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Feb 8, 2024 23:28
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Leperflesh posted:"I made a SUPER SHARP KNIFE from this CAST IRON PAN and then THIS HAPPENED" Most of the video consists of his wife beating his rear end for destroying her favorite cast iron skillet that has been passed down for generations.
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Feb 9, 2024 00:12
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I STABBED MY HUSBAND for making a knife out of grandma's CAST IRON PAN using this ONE WEIRD TRICK
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Feb 9, 2024 00:18
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We have some of these natural gas fittings in the lab. Can a small handheld propane torch like this one, when equipped with the proper hose fittings, burn natural gas effectively? We would just be using it for general small-scale heating purposes where I don't want to set up/use up the acetylene. https://www.amazon.com/BISupply-Hand-Held-Torch-Propane/dp/B08FYV8JPP 
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Feb 9, 2024 03:34
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My experience with nat gas vs. propane is that you'll be underwhelmed with the results. The good thing is stuff made for propane have smaller orifices than natural gas, so you can open them up with small drill bits (I use a letter set) until you get the correct/sufficient gas flow.
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Feb 9, 2024 15:36
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Duct tape a pistol grip to a huge fisher burner, imo.
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Feb 9, 2024 22:33
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what's the supply pressure on the lab gas? I remember using lab Bunsen burners in high school and you opened the valve all the way for just an adequate flame.
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Feb 9, 2024 22:56
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Leperflesh posted:what's the supply pressure on the lab gas? I remember using lab Bunsen burners in high school and you opened the valve all the way for just an adequate flame. Gas at the meter for your house is about 8" of water. The lovely little bunsen burner pipes in your HS lab are probably 1-2".
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Feb 9, 2024 23:50
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I'll save everyone the Google; 27.7 inches of water column (wc) pressure in 1 PSI of pressure. 7"wc is about 1/4 PSI. This is the normal pressure that household natural gas is delivered.
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Feb 10, 2024 06:55
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Hadlock posted:I'll save everyone the Google; For those who doubly don't want to do the gas flow and energy calcs, the lovely gasflow can still support a 3-4k BTU/hour bunsen burner, which is enough to do more less whatever lab you were assigned in class. Or burn little pieces of paper you folded up because you're bored and failed the lab because you hosed up the titration section.
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Feb 10, 2024 12:21
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Sagebrush posted:Can a small handheld propane torch like this one, when equipped with the proper hose fittings, burn natural gas effectively? quote:We would just be using it for general small-scale heating purposes where I don't want to set up/use up the acetylene. These little taps provide enough natural gas to be good substitutes for alcohol or spirit burners, which have anemic heat output. Methylethylaldehyde posted:For those who doubly don't want to do the gas flow and energy calcs, the lovely gasflow can still support a 3-4k BTU/hour bunsen burner, which is enough to do more less whatever lab you were assigned in class. Or burn little pieces of paper you folded up because you're bored and failed the lab because you hosed up the titration section. Sorry, not anemic heat output, PATHETIC heat output.
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Feb 10, 2024 17:03
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So I've come to the conclusion that I need a better way to cut mild steel metal tubing to size. Initially I was using a 3" handheld angle grinder and now I have three 4" models, one is a dedicated cut off wheel, but cutting stuff like 1" and especially 1.5" square tubing I'm just dogshit at. Previously I'd been cutting 0.50 square tubing with no issue because you can just zip through that with the grinder and touch it up with the flapper. If I go to harbor freight with, uh, I'd like to spend $100, but I'm guessing I need to spend $150, and $200 is the correct value, how do I get excellent cuts? I almost exclusively buy my tubing in 10' lengths and do ether 90° or 45° cuts. Do I want a chop saw or a band saw thing or what. Trying to cut it so I can just touch it briefly with the grinder and then tack it in place with the welder, or what's the correct thing Today I managed to weld, uh, 85% of the frame of a garage organizer together, but I'm realizing I don't have the accuracy to cut the piece that connects my two vertical uprights together without a lot of loving around with a flapper disc in the vise ha;lp Hadlock fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Feb 12, 2024 |
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Feb 12, 2024 08:21
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at my last job, we had an abrasive cutoff saw that I mostly used for cutting strut channel. Worked like a charm, left pretty clean edges with ferociously sharp burrs. at my current job, we have access to a cold saw, but that's probably a lil' bit north of that price range
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Feb 12, 2024 08:36
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Hmm yeah so that jives pretty close with my guesstimates; bauer is $150 and Hercules is $190 for a cut off saw. Ok so I'm roughly on the right track I see people like Colin Furze using a band saw to cut his stuff. Is this because it's better/more accurate, or simply because he needs to cut a 6x6" tube steel thing Looks like you can get a "universal" vertical stand for the bandsaw to use it like a traditional woodworking saw, is this something to consider? Or am I trying to squeeze too much utility out of one tool here. Adam Savage got a vertical stand for his and seems to not hate it
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Feb 12, 2024 08:56
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Hadlock posted:Hmm yeah so that jives pretty close with my guesstimates; bauer is $150 and Hercules is $190 for a cut off saw. Ok so I'm roughly on the right track What about a port-a-band? They make bench mounts for them too so they cane be fixed. Might give you a good degree of flexibility.
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Feb 12, 2024 13:24
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Yooper posted:What about a port-a-band? They make bench mounts for them too so they cane be fixed. Might give you a good degree of flexibility. Yeah this is the way. For production at some point something like an Ellis may make sense but every shop I've been in has a vertical portaband rig somewhere convenient for hand cutting. Wiring a foot pedal in is nice for convenience. Abrasive chop saws cut great but also smelly and dirty and leave larger burrs. Id consider a chop saw a "cheaper" cut, but for occasional/intermittent cutting id prefer a portaband. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Feb 12, 2024 |
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Feb 12, 2024 13:51
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I've got a band saw that can switch from vertical to drop. It's great. One huge upside vs the chop saw is its quiet and doesn't throw sparks. I had used a portaband for years and never could get straight cuts with it.
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Feb 12, 2024 14:17
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honda whisperer posted:I've got a band saw that can switch from vertical to drop. It's great.
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Feb 12, 2024 14:49
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Drop saws are also great because they can cut way more stuff than an abrasive chop saw, I've thrown 8"x6" aluminum bar in one and you can turn it on and walk away. I've never used a portaband rigged up as a drop saw but I can see it being nice. The chop saw is faster and while it's louder, messier, and leaves a fat burr it also loads what you're cutting less and you have a little more control. Trying to cut thin angle on a drop saw can tweak the legs and bend things, never had that issue with a chop.
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Feb 12, 2024 14:49
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Chop saw are loud and obnoxious, but they cut steel pretty fast. Watch for sparks and don't use it near flammable poo poo. I was using a small parts washer last month and left a bunch of poo poo to dry on some oil absorbent pads. A while later a dude went to cut some poo poo and the sparks caught the table on fire. The parts washer is "portable" in that it doesn't really have a permanent home, but that table is/was convenient at the time but the chop saw stays in its spot 99.999999% of the time.
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Feb 12, 2024 18:24
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