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I mean isn't charging batteries through solar how every off-grid solar system works? Is there more to it or is that guy really that dense? EDIT: VVVVV Oh yeah, that. The Dave fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Feb 10, 2024 |
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Feb 10, 2024 17:51
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The Dave posted:I mean isn't charging batteries through solar how every off-grid solar system works? Is there more to it or is that guy really that dense? The guys company doesn't offer what OP wants so they confidently state it doesn't exist to try and convince OP to settle on what the company does offer.
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Feb 10, 2024 17:59
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What's hilarious is one of the upstate NY youtubers who is a master electrician and GC who's been filming building his own new house just an hour ago dropped an episode showing his install of this thing that doesn't exist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3G5sADuTZU
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Feb 10, 2024 18:08
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SpartanIvy posted:Right now what the Ford Lightning and other vehicles have is a standard outlet plug to plug things into. It's not using a bidirectional charging cable, it's either a standard 120v outlet or in the case of the Lightning (I believe) a standard 220v outlet. So while you CAN power your home off of those, it's pretty limited power, and to do it you still need a traditional interlock that you have to flip over to power your home from your vehicle. This isn't accurate -- the lightnings have outlets onboard but also can power the home through the charger. Here's the guide. Not cheap though, they made it exclusively SunRun which sucks. SpartanIvy posted:NACS does not currently have any C2H or C2G standards built into it, probably because Tesla made NACS and they also want to sell you a PowerWall. Apparently coming to Teslas in 2025. I think this is definitely the future.
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Feb 10, 2024 18:43
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KS posted:This isn't accurate -- the lightnings have outlets onboard but also can power the home through the charger. Here's the guide. Not cheap though, they made it exclusively SunRun which sucks. KS posted:Apparently coming to Teslas in 2025. I think this is definitely the future.
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Feb 10, 2024 18:54
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I’m surprised a master electrician did work like that. Everyone I know who wires their own like that has a utility room that is 80% DIN by weight.
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Feb 10, 2024 19:05
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Alarbus posted:Are you on PPL or PECO in the new place? I don't think either has peak vs non peak prices, unless I'm missing something. Also, current price to compare is like 9 cents for PECO and about 11 for PPL, so your margin would be super small. Yeah, that's the other thing -- the motivation behind the "maybe I should get battery backup for the home" was a 30-hour power outage...at my current place in California. I wouldn't be buying anything in the next year or two in Philadelphia, just because I need to get a feel for the lay of the land. But I wanted to theorycraft anyway. For the record, I'm on PECO for electricity and natgas, but I may well end up buying electricity from a clean energy supplier.
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Feb 10, 2024 20:54
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Bought a rope saw to try and remove a broken branch from a tree that is still hanging in the air. It's not a very large branch but it's probably 25' in the air. For $30 I figured I'd give it a shot if it could save me the couple hundred bucks a tree service will charge. After three hours of effort today I've still got a limb that still needs to come down and now I have a rope saw stuck in my tree too. 
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Feb 11, 2024 00:20
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So how realistic is it to deal with a ~4 inch diameter, ~15 foot tall tree on my own? I've got some bullshit deciduous tree in my yard that I'm like 99% sure is dead. It was making leaves and flowers fine last year, then this year all but about a quarter of it looked dead as gently caress. Inch thick branches just come off with hand pressure. I'm waiting until the spring to see what it does but I'll be shocked if it's not almost all dead wood. It's just about small enough that I'm tempted to just hillbilly this with a sawzall. None of the branches are big enough that I'd be worried about them hurting anyone if they fell, and it branches out in a billion directions after about four and a half feet, so it's not like anyone is going to be climbing it with a chain saw. Used to give good shade. I think I could deal with getting it down in pieces. Mostly I'm wondering how to deal with the stump. All my local home depots apparently loving suck for tool rental, because they don't have stump grinders. This is a pattern with other tools I've tried to rent based on goon advice. I'd like to plant something there eventually.
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Feb 11, 2024 00:37
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A 4" diameter stump is something you dig around and cut below the surface, not grind if you don't have better options (like shoving the whole thing over with a miniex or tractor/loader). The thing I want to caution you about is that the amount of poo poo you need to clean up doesn't look all that bad until the tree is on the ground. Holy poo poo trees are big, and you really don't get it until they are laying on the ground. It's going to be a lot of stuff. This is why people who cut trees down have chippers. If you don't have one this is likely to end up being a bigger deal than you think.
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Feb 11, 2024 00:44
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Motronic posted:A 4" diameter stump is something you dig around and cut below the surface, not grind if you don't have better options (like shoving the whole thing over with a miniex or tractor/loader). Yeah we're already eyeballing that. It's going to be a whole loving thing and a pain in the rear end and we're assessing ways to get rid of the tree corpse when it's all said and done. It's just one of those issues where paying someone local to us to remove it is expensive enough to likely make the annoyance worthwhile.
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Feb 11, 2024 01:38
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Cyrano4747 posted:it is expensive enough to likely make the annoyance worthwhile. Assuming you hae competitrive bid an all, yes.....this is how tree work works for normal people. I have a whole series of pics and videos of how it works when you can do a lot of the work on the ground but have hired professionals with insurance to do the felling parts. Or the extrra expenesive "too close to the house you need a crane" parts.
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Feb 11, 2024 02:16
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Motronic posted:The thing I want to caution you about is that the amount of poo poo you need to clean up doesn't look all that bad until the tree is on the ground. Holy poo poo trees are big, and you really don't get it until they are laying on the ground. It's going to be a lot of stuff. This is why people who cut trees down have chippers. If you don't have one this is likely to end up being a bigger deal than you think. This ironically went the other way around for me, I finally got a dumb tree down and I expected a lot more material out of it than I ended up getting in the end. And that was a lot more than 4 inches.
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Feb 11, 2024 02:35
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Cyrano4747 posted:So how realistic is it to deal with a ~4 inch diameter, ~15 foot tall tree on my own? 4" x 15'? That's like as big as my forearm and ~2 feet taller than twice as tall as me in my head? Depending on How Dead and how broad of a canopy that's an afternoon project with an axe/chainsaw, mattock, and a sawzall. Give yourself a few feet over the ground on the "stump" and you can hook a ratchet strap to your car and gently apply pressure (remember, you're loading a spring with a 1ton apparatus, it will gently caress you and your car up) and use the mattock or a sharp shovel to cut the root ball free from the ground. Or just have someone rock that sucker back and forth as you go. You're not trying to get the "stump" out, you want to go a foot or so around the base and cut in a circle. Eventually you'll find where the roots get thin enough to cut with your shovel/axe/mattock, around <=1", and eventually it will come out. If there is a "live side" and a "dead side" it needs to come out regardless. That isn't going to become a healthy tree from a 4" trunk. If you're pulling branches off and the wood is dry behind it instead of green then I would just get it down so you can replace it. You can test this with a pocket knife making little test cuts that will heal if the tree is actually healthy. If you find it's gotta go, do yourself a favor and cut as many roots as you can stand on the "live" side so it starts drying out now. Giving me boy scout unused for 10+ years campsite restoration flashbacks.  Sirotan posted:After three hours of effort today I've still got a limb that still needs to come down and now I have a rope saw stuck in my tree too. This was just the laugh I needed today. 
H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Feb 11, 2024 |
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Feb 11, 2024 02:47
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Cyrano4747 posted:So how realistic is it to deal with a ~4 inch diameter, ~15 foot tall tree on my own? But basically, if it's not in a complicated place that's an easy job for a sharp axe or hatchet and a bow saw or pruning saw or a chain saw if you have one. I'd probably cut it just enough of the way through with with an axe that I could push it over the rest of the way for more control. I'm lazy and wouldn't bother digging the stump up. Cut it flush with the ground, put undiluted 41% glyphosate on the trunk immediately after you cut it off flush with the ground, stick a flower pot or something on top of it and it'll be gone in 3 years. If you really care you can drill a bunch of holes in it to theoretically speed decay. Some people say to put a nitrogen rich fertilizer on the stump and in all those holes to make it rot faster which makes sense in theory but seems like 
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Feb 11, 2024 05:05
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H110Hawk posted:This was just the laugh I needed today.  I took down* a dead orange tree that was probably 20' across and 20' tall, with maybe an 8" trunk, using primarily a hackzall, a polesaw, and a hand pruning saw. It was an absolute assload of work and that was before breaking the branches down small enough to fit in my trash cans over the span of the following month+. Of course I had the many luxuries of time to do the work, space to leave the piles of branches out of the way, no HOA to bitch about said piles, and zero risk of property damage if anything went wrong in the process. *the trunk is still there, about 4' tall, because I can't be assed to deal with more of it. One of these days I might try ripping it out with the Jeep or the tractor, or I'll borrow a chainsaw and cut it closer to the ground.
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Feb 11, 2024 05:17
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Stumps are great, plant some mushrooms and grow food in it.
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Feb 12, 2024 04:44
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I few years ago I took out a tree that was about 10 inches at the base and it fanned out like a bush. We just cut it down to the stump over a period of a month and left the stump to deal with the following year. I was going to drill some holes and put some stump remover in it but it dried out so much I just dug the thing up without much trouble. That really doesn’t seem too bad of a job. I’d just start it and if it seems like too much trouble then go for a pro.
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Feb 12, 2024 05:21
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At the other end of the spectrum is a holly tree I cut down about nine years ago. It was about 14" at the trunk and about 35' high. The stump is all that remains and I clear a half-bushel of shooters off of it 3-times a year. Thing won't fuckin' die. It's in a tight spot between my garage (about 3' away), the neighbor's property, and there's this weird pier buried in the ground next to it that would make using a stump-grinder a very iffy prospect.
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Feb 12, 2024 05:26
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I pace my trimmings with my trash service so that's a can's worth a week. I thin until I fill the can and continue next week. I use loppers as much as I can, then a bow saw or the chain saw for the bigger things.
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Feb 12, 2024 19:55
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I will never take yard waste to the curb, that's my organic matter and it belongs in a pile in my backyard to return to the earth from whence it came.
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Feb 12, 2024 20:13
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my kitchen is unfortunately pretty far from my window, but the over the oven microwave is right below the soffit containing the ductwork. Is it possible to vent the microwave to the ductwork with the proper tubing or whatever? obviously i would hire someone to do this, but just wanted to see if it's even an option
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Feb 12, 2024 20:18
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actionjackson posted:my kitchen is unfortunately pretty far from my window, but the over the oven microwave is right below the soffit containing the ductwork. Is it possible to vent the microwave to the ductwork with the proper tubing or whatever? obviously i would hire someone to do this, but just wanted to see if it's even an option No. That doesn't even help you and can only make things worse.
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Feb 12, 2024 20:32
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H110Hawk posted:No. That doesn't even help you and can only make things worse. ah ok. could you explain why it wouldn't work? is it because the odors would just blow back out the vents when the heat or AC was on?
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Feb 12, 2024 20:38
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actionjackson posted:ah ok. could you explain why it wouldn't work? is it because the odors would just blow back out the vents when the heat or AC was on? Yeah that interior ducting is basically just to take your central cooled/heated air and blow it into your living space. Venting into that wouldn't do anything but blow the air right back to you. A proper oven vent needs to vent outside. You'll need something going straight up through the roof or out of a wall. 
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Feb 12, 2024 20:51
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ah ok - definitely not an option as i'm on the first floor, but thanks for the info! the idea of blowing food odors out of the AC vents is pretty funny though
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Feb 12, 2024 21:19
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Plus the grease.
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Feb 12, 2024 21:29
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venting into the hallway to spite my neighbors
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Feb 12, 2024 21:54
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actionjackson posted:venting into the hallway to spite my neighbors It's giving kolwoon walled city
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Feb 12, 2024 22:33
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GlyphGryph posted:hey yall, this is not ideal right?
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Feb 12, 2024 23:37
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It's just a really wide trap!
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Feb 13, 2024 00:55
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Well, poo poo. Costco stopped selling the Bosch 800 after I decided to wait to see if there was a better pres day sale on it. How's the Asko 30 regarding being able to fit in a half sheet? I don't really want to do a different retailer.
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Feb 13, 2024 19:12
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actionjackson posted:my kitchen is unfortunately pretty far from my window, but the over the oven microwave is right below the soffit containing the ductwork. Is it possible to vent the microwave to the ductwork with the proper tubing or whatever? obviously i would hire someone to do this, but just wanted to see if it's even an option Do they even make over the range microwaves that have ducted exhaust vents? I thought those were exclusively the recirculating kind.
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Feb 13, 2024 19:28
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Every over-the-range microwave I've dug into has multiple configuration options for ducting - straight out the back, straight up, or recirculating (aka useless).
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Feb 13, 2024 19:32
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Most have ducting but their CFMs are usually weak as hell. Better than nothing though! We have one and cooking on the back burner directly under it helps a lot.
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Feb 13, 2024 19:35
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SpartanIvy posted:Most have ducting but their CFMs are usually weak as hell. Better than nothing though! We have one and cooking on the back burner directly under it helps a lot. It's interesting as are most consumer goods. Over 400cfm generally requires some make-up air to be available, so you're not drawing in combustion gases into your living space while it's in. This may not apply to everyone here. It does to me though. I was just shopping for a new microwave last year with my eye on this metric. Lots of microwaves are available at 400cfm, I got a Samsung that can do 500cfm. Many at 300cfm as well. On the front page at Home depot they're nearly all 300/400 but a Frigidaire was available at 105cfm which lol, that's absolutely asthmatic. Due to that regulation a lot of hoods are available at 380cfm. Some at 400cfm. Some higher and when it goes higher they usually don't mess around and I just saw a few at 900cfm. I think a hood usually does have better geometry to capture what is coming off the stove than Microwaves which tend to be shallower and taller with a flat bottom. (like myself).
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Feb 13, 2024 21:42
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Having a 900+cfm range hood would be badass but trying to condition makeup air seems like a huge, extremely costly can of worms. I’ve seen some hoods do this little hack where they just dump unconditioned makeup air directly in front of the hood, with the idea that it doesn’t need to be conditioned because it gets immediately sucked outside. But apparently those style systems aren’t as efficient at removing cooking byproducts as systems that actually condition the makeup air and introduce it somewhere farther away from the range.
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Feb 13, 2024 23:10
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kreeningsons posted:Having a 900+cfm range hood would be badass but trying to condition makeup air seems like a huge, extremely costly can of worms. Conditioned makeup air is pretty much a commercial kitchen thing. Your home heater is most likely much more efficient than a makeup air heater (plus one less thing to maintain) for basic home cooking in a leaky house or just opening a window. I have a sliding glass door near my big range with the full depth hood that is something absurd like 1000 CFM and this works just fine. There are residential style automatic makeup air dampers you can get, and some of them have electric resistance heat (ouch, my power bill) which still aren't sufficient to actually work at much more than 100 CFM (for the heating specifically). Note: if you go 400 CFM or above and have a fire place or any atmospherically vented things in your house (gas water heater, oil heater, fireplace) you are required to have makeup air by code since I think the 2009 IRC. Which makes a lot of sense in a home that new, as they are typically so tight an exhaust fan like that will just put the house in a negative pressure and spend all its effort fighting it rather than actually exhausting. This is what the hoods you're talking about were created to solve as an all-in-one solution, but as you pointed out they kinda suck and you want the makeup vent somewhere at least across the room.
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Feb 13, 2024 23:23
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What if it's directly vented to the atmosphere (high efficiency furnace and or power vent hwt)
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Feb 13, 2024 23:36
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I have a jen air in the house I bought with seemingly no intake, but windows on either side I can crack. It vents so well on low I've never really had to use medium or high, but what is the whole risk of not having intake air? A vacuum seems unlikely with the cubic feet of the house
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Feb 13, 2024 23:44
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