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Son of Rodney
Feb 22, 2006

ohmygodohmygodohmygod

I've used 0.2mm nozzles for dnd minis, it works well enough for those made for printing without supports. Even did 0.05mm layer height and that looked pretty drat smooth.

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mrbass21
Feb 1, 2009

Arcsech posted:

Are y’all FDM printing with 0.2mm nozzles? I haven’t been able to get even really acceptable results with a 0.4mm nozzle for minis, though it works pretty well for terrain.

I used a .4, but you have to slow the machine way down and do a couple of other settings.

The mini came out great for an FDM printer.

Talorat
Sep 18, 2007

Hahaha! Aw come on, I can't tell you everything right away! That would make for a boring story, don't you think?
My understanding is you can get decent minis out of a Bambu if you use a .25 nozzle instead of the default .4 one.

boneration
Jan 9, 2005

now that's performance
I'm not familiar with the way licenses work. If something on Thingiverse has this license, does that mean I can print it and sell it? Or does the license only apply to the file itself?

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


boneration posted:

I'm not familiar with the way licenses work. If something on Thingiverse has this license, does that mean I can print it and sell it? Or does the license only apply to the file itself?

You can sell it as long as you credit the author (e.g. link to the thingiverse page in the store listing).

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


Unless it's specifically marked non-commercial, you can, as long as you credit the original maker.

Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive
if i’ve got a bunch of 3D-print-tailored CAD designs and want to sell them, which platform should i go with? cults3d is my default here, maybe turbosquid? what else is there with a decent userbase


also: how hard is it to stack points on printables? i have a ton of mature designs i’ve never released- project folder says about 80 multi-part projects, with most of them being printed and iterated repeatedly so they’re actually decent irl designs. i still don’t have an FDM printer, and i’m like… maybe i could just publish everything and (if i get a couple hits) cash out on a prusa printer in a couple months… or at least keep me flush with filament for a bambu acquired the usual way.

Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Feb 11, 2024

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

I forgot but there's also a 3d print thread in the trad games zone, but basically they've reiterated the same points, FDM great for terrain sized stuff, resin for smaller.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3959573

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Synthbuttrange posted:

I forgot but there's also a 3d print thread in the trad games zone, but basically they've reiterated the same points, FDM great for terrain sized stuff, resin for smaller.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3959573

This.

Printing miniatures with resinfilament is very much a "you can technically do it" situation. If you want to make anything close to something you'd buy in a store though, you need to go with resin

E: made a fire in my snowy backyard, drinking beer, and posting as god intended

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Feb 11, 2024

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

ya got your resin in there more times than intended but I get what you mean :v

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Just a heads up about cults you need to sell a min amount to even initiate a transfer so if you have a design people buy but not enough, it's going to sit in limbo a bit.

JointHorse
Feb 7, 2005

Lusus naturæ et exaltabitur cor eius.


Yams Fan
I got some extra money, and I decided it was time to replace my ye-olde printer with something bigger & better. My budget was sub 400€, and I wanted something with klipper, so Bambu Lab was out. That left me with Creality Ender-3 V3 KE / Sovol SV07 Plus / Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus, and in the end I went with Elegoo.
Finally I can print faster than 50mm/s! :parrot:

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Buy the sv06 plus and put klipper on it. The sv07 is kind of trash and ends up having MCU disconnect errors.due to lovely build on the computer portion.


Honestly just klipper something yourself for $50 in bits.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

My new favorite Patreon (https://www.patreon.com/MZMDigitalDesign/posts) just posted this magnetic fidget toy and it might be my new favorite print



https://i.imgur.com/nWwDC7R.mp4

He has a cool circuit board design too

Talorat
Sep 18, 2007

Hahaha! Aw come on, I can't tell you everything right away! That would make for a boring story, don't you think?

Ambrose Burnside posted:

if i’ve got a bunch of 3D-print-tailored CAD designs and want to sell them, which platform should i go with? cults3d is my default here, maybe turbosquid? what else is there with a decent userbase


also: how hard is it to stack points on printables? i have a ton of mature designs i’ve never released- project folder says about 80 multi-part projects, with most of them being printed and iterated repeatedly so they’re actually decent irl designs. i still don’t have an FDM printer, and i’m like… maybe i could just publish everything and (if i get a couple hits) cash out on a prusa printer in a couple months… or at least keep me flush with filament for a bambu acquired the usual way.

Printables is also is rolling out paid models, so I’d recommend dual listing your stuff between there and Cults3D. Can’t hurt to have more eyes on it:

https://www.printables.com/store

Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive
sweet. One caveat is that some of the stuff i'm selling is extremely industry-specific and there might only be a few thousand people in the world who'd be interested (but at a high price point because it's a business asset kinda thing), and i'd like to be able to sell physical prints of those specifically. so if there's a platform that allows actual prints *or* CAD files for sale, that'd be ideal, but I don't think I've run into that before.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Ambrose Burnside posted:

sweet. One caveat is that some of the stuff i'm selling is extremely industry-specific and there might only be a few thousand people in the world who'd be interested (but at a high price point because it's a business asset kinda thing), and i'd like to be able to sell physical prints of those specifically. so if there's a platform that allows actual prints *or* CAD files for sale, that'd be ideal, but I don't think I've run into that before.

Is there a more industry specific chanel you could go through?

Seems like this might be the sort of thing to reach out to a dental tech company (or whatever) and middleman it through them.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.
One of these is fine for resin, right? I've got a 4" duct + inline fan to vent it to the outside.

HamburgerTownUSA
Aug 7, 2022

Ethics_Gradient posted:

One of these is fine for resin, right? I've got a 4" duct + inline fan to vent it to the outside.

Fumes from resin printing come from more than just the time it's actually printing. After your printer is done printing, you still need to do all the post processing, which often times can create more fumes than the process of printing itself (since you'll be working with your still uncured resin piece out in the open, as well as whatever your cleaning solution of choice is).

It's usually recommended to get a tent that can fit not just your printer, but the rest of your workflow. Often times, that means getting a taller grow tent and turning it sideways to fit your printer, wash and cure stations, and have enough space to post process.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

How do ya'll keep track of all the stls you may want to print & ideas for prints?

I'm just getting into this and finding that I'm getting and seeing hundreds of pre-made stls and thinking of tons of useful things I could try and find/build something for, but I have no clue how to keep it all organized.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid
A well organized folder structure on my hard drive.

Why yes I do have 3 folders named, "Household", under different higher tier folders. No I do not know which one I will use for the next file for something that you would find in the home-goods section.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

I try to make sure folders and files are named fairly descriptively, and assuming a Windows environment, I use "Everything" to search for stuff. It's a really quick and powerful little tool that will pull up words, combinations of words, and partials pretty much in real time.

https://www.voidtools.com/downloads/

As far as the actual decision making process... I find myself vapor locked a lot because I have SO many projects I want to do and not enough time to do them all. That's probably not very helpful, I recommend not using that method if possible.

HamburgerTownUSA
Aug 7, 2022

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

How do ya'll keep track of all the stls you may want to print & ideas for prints?

I'm just getting into this and finding that I'm getting and seeing hundreds of pre-made stls and thinking of tons of useful things I could try and find/build something for, but I have no clue how to keep it all organized.

Folders and renaming files to be more descriptive of what they actually are. I also have a folder for files that I intend to print in the next few days or whatever.


Acid Reflux posted:

I try to make sure folders and files are named fairly descriptively, and assuming a Windows environment, I use "Everything" to search for stuff. It's a really quick and powerful little tool that will pull up words, combinations of words, and partials pretty much in real time.

https://www.voidtools.com/downloads/

"Everything" is great. It helps me find stuff that I don't remember where I put it or what the name exactly was.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Thanks for all the advice.

My kiddo and I both are really enjoying everything in about this so far, but drat is the flood of things we want to complete getting large.


Acid Reflux posted:

I try to make sure folders and files are named fairly descriptively, and assuming a Windows environment, I use "Everything" to search for stuff. It's a really quick and powerful little tool that will pull up words, combinations of words, and partials pretty much in real time.

https://www.voidtools.com/downloads/

As far as the actual decision making process... I find myself vapor locked a lot because I have SO many projects I want to do and not enough time to do them all. That's probably not very helpful, I recommend not using that method if possible.

This is a neat little apple.

I actually use directory opus as an explorer replacement, and their search is like this little tool on crack so I’m glad I have something similar to use.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Just finished up another fully 3d printed r/c car by 3dsets.com



https://imgur.com/gallery/olSRDOQ

Really nice 240z model. This is the 3rd model he's designed that I've printed and they are outstanding models. Incredible attention to detail, full instruction set and very easy to print. If you like r/c cars at all his site is worth a look if you want to print one.

gvibes
Jan 18, 2010

Leading us to the promised land (i.e., one tournament win in five years)
He has a free non-RC model at printables - https://www.printables.com/model/41264-landy-mini-by-3d-sets

Currently in process.

hark
May 10, 2023

I'm sleep
So if I were to build an enclosure for my printer in order to print with filament that makes toxic fumes when printing, would making the side of it into a corsi-rosenthal box be sufficient to filter the bad stuff out?

I plan to move my printer to my basement and have a separate air purifier running in the same room as the printer, as well as the enclosure having a filter built in, assuming this makes sense and isn't a waste of time/effort/money

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
It's theoretically possible but to be absolutely sure you're actually filtering out all the bad stuff you have to know exactly WHAT the bad stuff is, then get in to the chemistry of removing it via specific filters. Activated charcoal or whatever isn't a magical "it all goes away" substance and smell isn't indicative of air being safe. In my mind the only truly safe way is external ventilation, and that works for basically everything as a bonus. No chemistry degree necessary.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

gvibes posted:

He has a free non-RC model at printables - https://www.printables.com/model/41264-landy-mini-by-3d-sets

Currently in process.

Don't have pictures on hand, but I made one of this for my kid a year or so ago and it's held up really well. Roof piece cracked, but otherwise the designs been really robust

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

bird food bathtub posted:

It's theoretically possible but to be absolutely sure you're actually filtering out all the bad stuff you have to know exactly WHAT the bad stuff is, then get in to the chemistry of removing it via specific filters. Activated charcoal or whatever isn't a magical "it all goes away" substance and smell isn't indicative of air being safe. In my mind the only truly safe way is external ventilation, and that works for basically everything as a bonus. No chemistry degree necessary.

This is why my printers are in a separate building from my living space, but very few people have that luxury.

I guess if you have an apartment balcony or something that reasonably shelters the machine from rain/etc. put it there?

DoLittle
Jul 26, 2006
Not an option for most, but I’ve got mine in an old boiler room in the basement. It has ventilation that is separate from the rest of the building and has a fireproof door and concrete walls, floor and ceiling. Keeps the noise in as well.

I also have an air quality meter that stores the measurement history there to see how VOC peak and dissipate when I print things. It hasn’t really shown that high peak values though, except when I’ve been dosing acetone for vapor smoothing of ASA.

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

Some Pinko Commie posted:

This is why my printers are in a separate building from my living space, but very few people have that luxury.

I guess if you have an apartment balcony or something that reasonably shelters the machine from rain/etc. put it there?

I have mine in an enclosure with dryer hose and an in-line fan going to a window adapter for those atrocious stand-up air conditioning units. Keep the door closed and the entire room turns into a miniature kinda-sorta negative pressure chamber so it all goes out the window. Don't have to go as far as an entirely separate building or even having it only outside on a balcony, it's not like we're printing with flourine perchlorate or something.

hark
May 10, 2023

I'm sleep

DoLittle posted:

Not an option for most, but I’ve got mine in an old boiler room in the basement. It has ventilation that is separate from the rest of the building and has a fireproof door and concrete walls, floor and ceiling. Keeps the noise in as well.

I also have an air quality meter that stores the measurement history there to see how VOC peak and dissipate when I print things. It hasn’t really shown that high peak values though, except when I’ve been dosing acetone for vapor smoothing of ASA.

I'm probably gonna cut a hole in the side of my house out of the basement and vent the enclosure/dry box I'm gonna build out of there. Then I'll keep the air purifier on down there for good measure.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

bird food bathtub posted:

I have mine in an enclosure with dryer hose and an in-line fan going to a window adapter for those atrocious stand-up air conditioning units. Keep the door closed and the entire room turns into a miniature kinda-sorta negative pressure chamber so it all goes out the window. Don't have to go as far as an entirely separate building or even having it only outside on a balcony, it's not like we're printing with flourine perchlorate or something.

From my reading it seems like this kind of setup should be sufficient with active fans to push/pull air. Especially if your enclosure is well sealed.

hark posted:

I'm probably gonna cut a hole in the side of my house out of the basement and vent the enclosure/dry box I'm gonna build out of there. Then I'll keep the air purifier on down there for good measure.

I don’t think an air purifier would be capable of filtering out much VOCs or anything from 3d printing. They’re generally designed around removing dust and pollen from the air. Even ones advertised as having HEPA filters wouldn’t be enough for ABS and the like.

This is an ad for this company, but the information seems mostly truthful.

https://molekule.com/blogs/all/the-best-air-purifier-for-3d-printer-fumes-and-other-pollutants

There’s also the fact that inside a basement space there isn’t much airflow, so anything the printer spits out would saturate the room pretty well before an air purifier would catch anything. Maybe eventually it’d get some but I wouldn’t rely on it.

boneration
Jan 9, 2005

now that's performance
I keep mine in the garage and don't worry about it much. Ventilation is that I open the garage door for thirty seconds when I go driving somewhere. It only smells bad in there when I'm printing and the resin is actively curing, and I wear a respirator when I'm working with the minis fresh off the printer.

hark
May 10, 2023

I'm sleep

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

From my reading it seems like this kind of setup should be sufficient with active fans to push/pull air. Especially if your enclosure is well sealed.


quote:

There’s also the fact that inside a basement space there isn’t much airflow, so anything the printer spits out would saturate the room pretty well before an air purifier would catch anything. Maybe eventually it’d get some but I wouldn’t rely on it.

I plan to have a sealed enclosure with a sealed dry box connected to it, and then a vent hose going from that to outside, very similar to the other person's set-up.

Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

From my reading it seems like this kind of setup should be sufficient with active fans to push/pull air. Especially if your enclosure is well sealed.

I don’t think an air purifier would be capable of filtering out much VOCs or anything from 3d printing. They’re generally designed around removing dust and pollen from the air. Even ones advertised as having HEPA filters wouldn’t be enough for ABS and the like.

You can get proper full-size MERV-rated air filters that are reasonably-priced- MERV13, or 15, I remember looking at- that are intended for VOCs, because that's what you need to deal with tobacco smoke. Real HEPA-grade stuff will cost a lot more and you don't really need it here. I don't take the dinky little air filters they put on some printers seriously, but you can absolutely build a unit that is very effective at scrubbing the atmosphere inside an enclosure, particularly if it continuously filters and re-filters the enclosure vs. being a once-through type that ejects the air into the room. Building it to accept standard-sized HVAC filters is the way to go, even if it's huge, because you know you're getting real filtration that meets a real standard, and it'll be priced reasonably because it isn't a weird proprietary thing the printer manufacturer upsells you on, and that isn't meeting any real filtration standards at all. I remember seeing a design or two that met these standards back when I was looking at options for my resin printer setup at home, but it's been a while.
Once-through filtration may or may not be effective, but I'd trust it far less than something that recirculates. A mostly-saturated filter is going to continue working in recirculation, while a once-through is going to drop off in effectiveness WRT VOCs specifically once its activated carbon component has had its fill.

Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Feb 14, 2024

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Man, textured build sheets are awesome. If you don’t have one, get one.

I grabbed a Prusa textured sheet to print MK3.5 parts on for that nice factory finish, and these parts look amazing. I’m changing accent colors during the upgrade, and going away from orange to something more interesting. Hopefully I have time this weekend to tear the thing apart and put it back together.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

smax posted:

Man, textured build sheets are awesome. If you don’t have one, get one.

I grabbed a Prusa textured sheet to print MK3.5 parts on for that nice factory finish, and these parts look amazing. I’m changing accent colors during the upgrade, and going away from orange to something more interesting. Hopefully I have time this weekend to tear the thing apart and put it back together.

I'm considering using the old board and LCD on a dead old Monoprice frame if I can get the motors and heated bed/etc. wired up to it correctly and flash an unofficial modified Marlin on it.

The original Melzi board on that old frame was woefully underpowered for running it and I bet that would be a fun frankenprinter build since I theoretically have everything I need already for it.

Only bad thing is identifying the bed probe correctly so it triggers during the leveling sequence... but I'll figure that out when I start that project.

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mewse
May 2, 2006

smax posted:

Man, textured build sheets are awesome. If you don’t have one, get one.

I grabbed a Prusa textured sheet to print MK3.5 parts on for that nice factory finish, and these parts look amazing. I’m changing accent colors during the upgrade, and going away from orange to something more interesting. Hopefully I have time this weekend to tear the thing apart and put it back together.

Oddly specific question but has anyone re-printed the prusa x end parts (motor / idler) in ABS and had them be slightly too small? I'm wondering if I scaled them to 103% if it would solve the smooth rods breaking the parts.

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