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Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Nope, but perhaps the dealer will be able to tell me that. FWIW I’ve been doing as much of different driving as I can (lots of highway, stop and go, fast and slow acceleration, etc)

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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
It shouldn't take 1000 miles to set monitors. Find the exact procedure for your car and follow it to the letter. "Varied" driving won't set the catalyst efficiency monitor easy.

AIR (air injection, catalyst warm up) and HRT(oxygen sensor heaters) are typically set on cold start. There's conditionals depending on the make. Some do not like having the brake touched, others want 45-90 seconds of idle time.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

I agree that it shouldn’t but it also appears to be very common for this engine (3.0 duramax), and the dealer gave a heads up in advance when we bought it that it normally takes a long time (1000+ miles). Either way, the CEL is the bigger problem

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Is this a brand new car? Why the poo poo does CA want to have a brand new car smogged?
I'll assume that its 50 state legal already.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Steve French posted:

Took delivery of a new car

What sort of car is it?

Different monitors have different, and wildly specific, drive cycles that are required to set them. Start by telling us what kind of car it is, and maybe someone can look up the drive cycles.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

wesleywillis posted:

Is this a brand new car? Why the poo poo does CA want to have a brand new car smogged?
I'll assume that its 50 state legal already.

Steve French posted:

... buying a new car out of state ...
It's this.

Hard agree on "it doesn't take 1000 miles to set readiness monitors", and if the dealership is saying it does, I'd stop trusting them.

Also agreeing on this:

Safety Dance posted:

What sort of car is it?

Different monitors have different, and wildly specific, drive cycles that are required to set them. Start by telling us what kind of car it is, and maybe someone can look up the drive cycles.
... and adding: If I recall correctly, Mr. French, you live in an area with some altitude. Bear in mind that the procedures do have variations for high-altitude driving and you'll need to follow those precisely.

If you can't set readiness monitors in two days, there's something wrong with the car or you're not following the correct procedure. (Obviously there is in this case, but seriously, I've never encountered a car that was working properly where this wasn't the case.)

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

wesleywillis posted:

Is this a brand new car? Why the poo poo does CA want to have a brand new car smogged?
I'll assume that its 50 state legal already.

As mentioned by Krakkles, because it came from out of state. Yes, it's 50 state legal; have already gotten VIN verification and whatnot done at the DMV. Had to do the same thing when I bought a new superduty, except with that I also had to provide a weight certificate.


Safety Dance posted:

What sort of car is it?

Different monitors have different, and wildly specific, drive cycles that are required to set them. Start by telling us what kind of car it is, and maybe someone can look up the drive cycles.

2024 Yukon w/ 3.0 duramax.


Krakkles posted:

Hard agree on "it doesn't take 1000 miles to set readiness monitors", and if the dealership is saying it does, I'd stop trusting them.

Also agreeing on this:

... and adding: If I recall correctly, Mr. French, you live in an area with some altitude. Bear in mind that the procedures do have variations for high-altitude driving and you'll need to follow those precisely.

If you can't set readiness monitors in two days, there's something wrong with the car or you're not following the correct procedure. (Obviously there is in this case, but seriously, I've never encountered a car that was working properly where this wasn't the case.)


I do live at altitude, though not that high (6k ft). I certainly would have assumed something was wrong with the car if it took this long for monitors to be ready if I hadn't been warned about it; and of course obviously there is something wrong with the vehicle that might be related to the monitors not being ready. To be clear, with this dealership, this is my first service interaction with them and we're starting from scratch in terms of trust, here, so they haven't earned it yet for it to be lost. The idea that smog readiness takes a while on these seemed verifiable from searching around, though so did other folks with emissions/CEL issues after a few thousand miles, so maybe it's just that there's a lot with problems causing it to take a long time. When I dropped it off this morning and mentioned to one of the service guys that I drove it 1k miles before it was ready the first time he said it usually takes a little longer than that for these. Maybe this isn't working as designed, but is a common issue.

At any rate, what I was looking for was less "how do I get this to be ready for smog sooner" but more: wtf do I do in the event that it's not ready for smog before my temp registration expires (which might happen even if I can get it ready for smog much more quickly, because I don't know how long it'll be at the dealer, and I've only got two weeks). One of the service advisors said I'd be fine since I have the work order now showing it's being worked on (supposedly a probable EGR issue), but of course I don't trust that very far. I at least got them to dig up a loaner for me (one that hadn't been cleaned, and I didn't care to wait for them to clean it).

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

In 2012 in Massachusetts, a driver backed into the drivers door of my parked Ford focus. No matter, their insurance bought me a new door.

In 2019, I moved the focus to California, and California would not register the vehicle because the original information from the sticker on the door jam was missing, and the new door had a sticker that did not match the original VIN. I needed to schedule an appointment with a California highway patrol officer to verify the vehicle before I could bring it to the DMV for a smog check, registration, and everything else.

California doesn't care if it's 50 state legal, they will inspect every detail on your way into the state.

deoju
Jul 11, 2004

All the pieces matter.
Nap Ghost
Sup car goons, I have a stupid question for you.

Mice made a home in my car and hosed the wiring. How can I stop them from doing it again? Parking indoors all the time isn't really an option. I moved my trash cans thinking they were hanging out there. I've read pepper or mint oil would scare them off, do I just spray that poo poo all over under the hood? And their are products that claim to work, but sound like snake oil. "Ultra sonic" pest repellant that you wire into your car and such.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

RadioPassive posted:

In 2012 in Massachusetts, a driver backed into the drivers door of my parked Ford focus. No matter, their insurance bought me a new door.

In 2019, I moved the focus to California, and California would not register the vehicle because the original information from the sticker on the door jam was missing, and the new door had a sticker that did not match the original VIN. I needed to schedule an appointment with a California highway patrol officer to verify the vehicle before I could bring it to the DMV for a smog check, registration, and everything else.

California doesn't care if it's 50 state legal, they will inspect every detail on your way into the state.

While I enjoy having a laugh on CA for most of the absurdities...VIN inspections with the police happen in even the most reddish of states for out of state purchases.

Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002

Colostomy Bag posted:

While I enjoy having a laugh on CA for most of the absurdities...VIN inspections with the police happen in even the most reddish of states for out of state purchases.

When I took ownership of my grandpa's Oldsmobile, a sheriff's deputy had to come over and inspect the VIN because the car had Wisconsin tags and I lived in Indiana.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Oh weird. Massachusetts doesn't flinch at that, I walk into an RMV with an out-of-state title signed by the seller and walk out with MA plates in hand and a MA title in the mail 2 weeks later, no cops and no verification needed, standard inspection due within 7 days.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

deoju posted:

Sup car goons, I have a stupid question for you.

Mice made a home in my car and hosed the wiring. How can I stop them from doing it again? Parking indoors all the time isn't really an option. I moved my trash cans thinking they were hanging out there. I've read pepper or mint oil would scare them off, do I just spray that poo poo all over under the hood? And their are products that claim to work, but sound like snake oil. "Ultra sonic" pest repellant that you wire into your car and such.

Put any sort of food in this https://www.amazon.com/Victor-M310S-Trap-Catches-Geometric-Pattern/dp/B00004RAMU and put it where you park. Scrape it out once in a while. You can use it as catch and release or a self baiting trap depending on how you feel about mice.

LegoMan
Mar 17, 2002

ting ting ting

College Slice
Is it normal for and older carbd engine to idle slower (900) when it's cold and ramp up when it warms up (1400)

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


deoju posted:

Sup car goons, I have a stupid question for you.

Mice made a home in my car and hosed the wiring. How can I stop them from doing it again? Parking indoors all the time isn't really an option. I moved my trash cans thinking they were hanging out there. I've read pepper or mint oil would scare them off, do I just spray that poo poo all over under the hood? And their are products that claim to work, but sound like snake oil. "Ultra sonic" pest repellant that you wire into your car and such.

Two things I've seen work:
A nightlight on an extension cord under the hood.

Bars of dial soap, still in the box. I bought a pop up camper a few years ago in which the PO had done this. I never took them out and it worked really well, never had a single mouse get in. I know they were around, too, because they got in my garage against which the camper was parked.

Gothmog1065
May 14, 2009
Answer: Pretty sure I'm hosed.
Question: How hosed am I?

Basically, I thought I posted a picture of inside the wheel well earlier, but I suppose not. Either way, the red line is the steering column. Left is my truck, right is the 'donor' truck I was going to use. I didn't see just how bad this was bent until now, but it looks like the rail is pushed up and back by a good bit (6-8"). Am I pretty much screwed here? I have a friend who's gung-ho about cutting the donor apart and welding the frames back together, but I'm looking at all the other poo poo, alignment, front end items, and frankly I don't have the equipment or shop space (He has a welder and an angle grinder).

Pretty sure it's time to just part out the truck and scrap the remains.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

deoju
Jul 11, 2004

All the pieces matter.
Nap Ghost

Alarbus posted:

Put any sort of food in this https://www.amazon.com/Victor-M310S-Trap-Catches-Geometric-Pattern/dp/B00004RAMU and put it where you park. Scrape it out once in a while. You can use it as catch and release or a self baiting trap depending on how you feel about mice.

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

Two things I've seen work:
A nightlight on an extension cord under the hood.

Bars of dial soap, still in the box. I bought a pop up camper a few years ago in which the PO had done this. I never took them out and it worked really well, never had a single mouse get in. I know they were around, too, because they got in my garage against which the camper was parked.

Thanks for the input to both of you. After how much I just paid, I'll give anything a shot.

For now I put some repellant. They are like super pungent mint tea bags. I zip tied them to the wires that were obviously newly replaced. They aren't going set on fire there are they?

I took a picture and made a grid so if I somebody could say "put it on the blue thing in A4" or whatever I'd know what you meant. Seemed the best way rather than me not know wtf if you said "put it on the interoccitor."

deoju fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Feb 17, 2024

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

It's pricey but wrapping any exposed/tasty looking wiring in this is an option too https://www.collegehillshonda.com/product/4019-2317.html

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


How do I remove tint?

My Tacoma has super dark tint, like 5%. I just got a camper shell which is also tinted. Now I can barely see out the back. If I can remove the back window tint, I think it'll solve things. As far as I can tell, it's very well applied. I've never had so much as a tiny ripple or bubble, even in spots that it's been scratched.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

deoju posted:

Thanks for the input to both of you. After how much I just paid, I'll give anything a shot.

For now I put some repellant. They are like super pungent mint tea bags. I zip tied them to the wires that were obviously newly replaced. They aren't going set on fire there are they?

I took a picture and made a grid so if I somebody could say "put it on the blue thing in A4" or whatever I'd know what you meant. Seemed the best way rather than me not know wtf if you said "put it on the interoccitor."


The other thing I did was get mint extract oil from the natural foods store in the soap/perfume making section, and put drops on the undertray. I still ended up with mice in the trap. I've tried tea tree oil in the shed, and still had mice, so I'm not really confident it works. It's not expensive or damaging so there's no major risk to it though.

What helped with the shed was putting out food for the stray/feral cats, but then you have a cat gang, and potentially a trash panda or two, so it's all about tradeoffs.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


deoju posted:

Thanks for the input to both of you. After how much I just paid, I'll give anything a shot.

For now I put some repellant. They are like super pungent mint tea bags. I zip tied them to the wires that were obviously newly replaced. They aren't going set on fire there are they?

I took a picture and made a grid so if I somebody could say "put it on the blue thing in A4" or whatever I'd know what you meant. Seemed the best way rather than me not know wtf if you said "put it on the interoccitor."


My experience with rodents in the engine bay is they focus on two places: the air intake (A6-B7) and the insulation on the underside of the hood itself. I've never had to deal with chewed wiring but that seems really common as well. I wouldn't put anything inside the airbox, but definitely inspect it and maybe put your repellent around the outside of it. Clean out all the leaves and stuff around the base of the windshield. They'll piss there.

totalnewbie
Nov 13, 2005

I was born and raised in China, lived in Japan, and now hold a US passport.

I am wrong in every way, all the damn time.

Ask me about my tattoos.

cursedshitbox posted:

It shouldn't take 1000 miles to set monitors. Find the exact procedure for your car and follow it to the letter. "Varied" driving won't set the catalyst efficiency monitor easy.

AIR (air injection, catalyst warm up) and HRT(oxygen sensor heaters) are typically set on cold start. There's conditionals depending on the make. Some do not like having the brake touched, others want 45-90 seconds of idle time.

I don't know the specifics of this monitor, obviously, but I am intimately familiar with other monitors. There are certain intrusive monitors, for example, that require very specific conditions that are very rarely fulfilled, so it may be that 1k+ miles is simply due to people (from that area?) not driving in that way. In addition, as cars get more complex, more and more things need to be OBDed and various OBDs start fighting each other (during development/calibration) for opportunities to run. Just saying, 1k miles is probably an exaggeration but maybe not quite by as much as you might think.

maxwellhill
Jan 5, 2022
which car brands have the most well-written service manuals?

not the owner's manual, but the actual repair manuals for auto mechanics/factory

likewise which car brands have the worst/no service manuals available anywhere?

Kvlt!
May 19, 2012



maxwellhill posted:

which car brands have the most well-written service manuals?

not the owner's manual, but the actual repair manuals for auto mechanics/factory

likewise which car brands have the worst/no service manuals available anywhere?

not an answer but a related question, i was looking for this for my car the other day and the only thing i could find was USBs on Ebay or a $500 printed copy, this was for a Silverado. Are the ebay USBs legit? I want a physical copy and was gonna just buy one and print my own copy but i dont know how legit they are

Cowslips Warren
Oct 29, 2005

What use had they for tricks and cunning, living in the enemy's warren and paying his price?

Grimey Drawer
Car is 99 Honda Accord. I just got her a new gas tank and radiator, and am pretty sure I was up to date on oil changes, but the Maintenance Required light has started coming on every time I start up; it flashes 10 times and then turns off. Got an oil change today because I was close to being due, but the light hasn't turned off yet.

Mileage is about 83,000. I couldn't find anything in the service manual.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Cowslips Warren posted:

Car is 99 Honda Accord. I just got her a new gas tank and radiator, and am pretty sure I was up to date on oil changes, but the Maintenance Required light has started coming on every time I start up; it flashes 10 times and then turns off. Got an oil change today because I was close to being due, but the light hasn't turned off yet.

Mileage is about 83,000. I couldn't find anything in the service manual.

Whoever did your oil change didn't reset the maintenance light. It does that when youre approaching the 3000/5000 mile since last change. Look up instructions, it'll be something like "turn key on, set tripodometer to to A, turn key off, hold tripodometer button, turn key on and hold till display stops flashing, turn key off."

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
A couple(?) months ago I changed the PCV valve in my '09 Corolla (2.4l) and since then have been noticing a bit of a burning oil smell after I've been driving for a while. I have no idea if the smell was there before, just that I started noticing it after changing the PCV. I've checked around the valve and the hose thinking that the hose being 15 years old at the time might have cracked and started to leak after changing the valve but there are no noticeable oil leaks from that area.
I know these things burn oil and this one is no exception.
I smell it when I get out of the car, so at the sides as opposed to at the back by the tail pipe or something.

The valve itself came with some sealant already on the threads, and as I mentioned I didn't see any visible leaks. The exhaust manifold is on the front of the engine. PCV on the back, though I guess oil could be dripping down to the cat or something.

What else is there on these things to check on the top end besides the valve cover gasket? Or (hopefully not) the head gasket?

deoju
Jul 11, 2004

All the pieces matter.
Nap Ghost
Thanks for all the advice on my mouse problem. You car goons are cool.

I'm going for an "all of the above approach." Traps outside. Peppermint oil. Spicy tape. Bars of soap.

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

deoju posted:

Thanks for all the advice on my mouse problem. You car goons are cool.

I'm going for an "all of the above approach." Traps outside. Peppermint oil. Spicy tape. Bars of soap.

The freshest engine bay is in your future.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Steve French posted:


2024 Yukon w/ 3.0 duramax.



some 2017 forum post posted:



General Motors Driving Cycle

The OBD II Home Page - On-Board Diagnostic System Information
Autotap® OBDII Diagnostic Scanner
General Motors Driving Cycle

A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Reprinted on OBDII web site courtesy of General Motors Corporation
© General Motors Corporation


Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Feb 17, 2024

maxwellhill
Jan 5, 2022
i'm used to the GM Helms service manuals. those kick rear end. tons of words about each procedure.

on the other hand, i had a Nissan service manual which was electronic (yay) but sucked (boo). do all japanese companies explain procedures entirely with comic strips? it was ridiculous

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Especially with the "may require up to 5 complete repeats" part, I can absolutely see a significant number of people not completing this for 1000+ miles. It goes back to the "you really need to be doing the specific procedure, not just driving it" advice.

Steve French posted:

At any rate, what I was looking for was less "how do I get this to be ready for smog sooner" but more: wtf do I do in the event that it's not ready for smog before my temp registration expires (which might happen even if I can get it ready for smog much more quickly, because I don't know how long it'll be at the dealer, and I've only got two weeks). One of the service advisors said I'd be fine since I have the work order now showing it's being worked on (supposedly a probable EGR issue), but of course I don't trust that very far. I at least got them to dig up a loaner for me (one that hadn't been cleaned, and I didn't care to wait for them to clean it).
Are you familiar with Chamillionaire's work?

I'd maybe believe that a mechanic can fairly reliably get away with "sorry, officer, I'm driving this to complete testing so it can be smogged". It's not my understanding that it's legal, but I'd bet they can get away with it.

Your options are:
  • make the dealership deal with it (I'm not a lawyer, no idea how feasible this really is)
  • have a mechanic deal with it
  • go fail smog right before it expires to get a temp tag (explicitly legal, may or may not give you enough time to actually fix it because there are limits on how long the tags are good for and per the procedure above, you might need up to 5 days to complete the drive cycle x5)
  • do the drive cycle on expired tags
I wouldn't explicitly recommend the last one, but I will say that they don't generally pull people over for expired tags in CA within the first couple months, unless they have another reason they want to pull you over.

hark
May 10, 2023

I'm sleep
Hello thread! So I have a 2020 Chevy Trax, and during the summer when it was really hot, I had an issue where the radiator fan would stay on after the car was turned off. Didn't think anything of it initially because it was hot, but one of the times it happened, I came out to my car an hour later and it was still on. This lead to my battery dying and me needing a jump. Went to AutoZone and they tested it and said the battery was bad now, so I got a new one and the problem seemed to go away (which was weird because I had never heard of a fan staying on because of a bad battery). Fast forward to a month later, and I start the car and drive about 500 feet, and suddenly the car goes into limp mode, and I can only go 4mph. Never had that happen before and looked it up to discover what limp mode was. Bought a cheap ODB scanner from Amazon and I can't remember the code, but it was something about throttle position sensor.

Didn't know about this thread or the idea of not throwing parts at a problem at the time, so I bought a new throttle body that came pre-calbirated (according to the item page) and replaced it. Seemed to fix that problem and I haven't gotten that issue (limp mode) since.

Fast forward to a month ago: I do my first oil change ever (both on this car, and in general), change the cabin and engine air filters, and everything seems to have gone well. I park, go to sleep, get up the next day and drive about an hour to a suburb, and on the way there, the check engine light pops on, and I suddenly can't accelerate nearly as quickly as I otherwise would be able to. I can still get up to at least 65 (I wasn't in a place where it made sense to go faster) but it just took a lot longer. I get where I'm going and scan with the ODB and I get p0299 - turbo under boost. I clear the code, and I can magically accelerate normally. Couple weeks ago by that code and check engine pop again, and are cleared again, and now I'm here.

Just wanted to see if anyone had any insight into this at all. Is it possible I messed something up when I did the maintenance and repair? A coincidence and unrelated problem, possible?
Aliens and gremlins teaming up to make my life harder AGAIN?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Gothmog1065 posted:

Answer: Pretty sure I'm hosed.
Question: How hosed am I?

Basically, I thought I posted a picture of inside the wheel well earlier, but I suppose not. Either way, the red line is the steering column. Left is my truck, right is the 'donor' truck I was going to use. I didn't see just how bad this was bent until now, but it looks like the rail is pushed up and back by a good bit (6-8"). Am I pretty much screwed here? I have a friend who's gung-ho about cutting the donor apart and welding the frames back together, but I'm looking at all the other poo poo, alignment, front end items, and frankly I don't have the equipment or shop space (He has a welder and an angle grinder).

Pretty sure it's time to just part out the truck and scrap the remains.



I would pull some measurements across similar points but that looks like your frame is hosed to me. Repairable, probably, but almost certainly not economically viable compared to replacing the truck and parting out what you have.


maxwellhill posted:

which car brands have the most well-written service manuals?

not the owner's manual, but the actual repair manuals for auto mechanics/factory

likewise which car brands have the worst/no service manuals available anywhere?

Check and see if your library gives you free access to Chilton Library - for most cars newer than 2000 or so, those seem to be factory service manuals.


hark posted:

Hello thread! So I have a 2020 Chevy Trax, and during the summer when it was really hot, I had an issue where the radiator fan would stay on after the car was turned off. Didn't think anything of it initially because it was hot, but one of the times it happened, I came out to my car an hour later and it was still on. This lead to my battery dying and me needing a jump. Went to AutoZone and they tested it and said the battery was bad now, so I got a new one and the problem seemed to go away (which was weird because I had never heard of a fan staying on because of a bad battery). Fast forward to a month later, and I start the car and drive about 500 feet, and suddenly the car goes into limp mode, and I can only go 4mph. Never had that happen before and looked it up to discover what limp mode was. Bought a cheap ODB scanner from Amazon and I can't remember the code, but it was something about throttle position sensor.

Didn't know about this thread or the idea of not throwing parts at a problem at the time, so I bought a new throttle body that came pre-calbirated (according to the item page) and replaced it. Seemed to fix that problem and I haven't gotten that issue (limp mode) since.

Fast forward to a month ago: I do my first oil change ever (both on this car, and in general), change the cabin and engine air filters, and everything seems to have gone well. I park, go to sleep, get up the next day and drive about an hour to a suburb, and on the way there, the check engine light pops on, and I suddenly can't accelerate nearly as quickly as I otherwise would be able to. I can still get up to at least 65 (I wasn't in a place where it made sense to go faster) but it just took a lot longer. I get where I'm going and scan with the ODB and I get p0299 - turbo under boost. I clear the code, and I can magically accelerate normally. Couple weeks ago by that code and check engine pop again, and are cleared again, and now I'm here.

Just wanted to see if anyone had any insight into this at all. Is it possible I messed something up when I did the maintenance and repair? A coincidence and unrelated problem, possible?
Aliens and gremlins teaming up to make my life harder AGAIN?

These all sound like mostly unrelated issues to me. The only thing I can think of could maybe be if when you installed the new throttle body, some of the ducting between the intercooler outlet and the throttle body inlet was damaged or not reinstalled properly and has started leaking... but that also seems unlikely if there is a timescale of months+ between the throttle body failure and the P0299.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



hark posted:

Hello thread! So I have a 2020 Chevy Trax, and during the summer when it was really hot, I had an issue where the radiator fan would stay on after the car was turned off.
... my battery dying and me needing a jump.

... a month later, and I start the car and drive about 500 feet, and suddenly the car goes into limp mode, and I can only go 4mph. Never had that happen before and looked it up to discover what limp mode was.
...throttle position sensor.
...
Fast forward to a month ago:...check engine light pops on, and I suddenly can't accelerate nearly as quickly as I otherwise would be able to. I can still get up to at least 65 ...I clear the code, and I can magically accelerate normally.

Couple weeks ago by that code and check engine pop again, and are cleared again, and now I'm here.

Just wanted to see if anyone had any insight into this at all. Is it possible I messed something up when I did the maintenance and repair? A coincidence and unrelated problem, possible?
Aliens and gremlins teaming up to make my life harder AGAIN?

It may be ghosts. I hate to see this happen in any other vehicle, but a low-voltage condition can make the ECU / BCM behave strangely, and start logging weird codes for poo poo that isn't real. My neighbor's 2020 Camry lit up like a Christmas tree on the dash, and a single headlight came on, when the resting battery charge was below 13-volts. She thought the thing was about to catch fire or something. New battery solved everything.

My '05 Cayenne battery is probably dying, so the check engine, airbag-fault, & side-marker warning lights keep coming on, and the radio changes the time at random. At other times, I'd get a hatful of codes for throttle position or other sensors, emissions, other problems. You know: Ghosts.

Not sure if the low-voltage issue did something else to the ECU, but the fan running is usually a faulty thermostatic switch stuck shut, or some kind of ground issue.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Feb 18, 2024

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
If I wanted to doodle on my car, just for funsies, would an auto body marker be appropriate? From what I've read, they're semipermanent and can be washed off with ammonia (e.g. windex), but do they do any harm to the underlying clearcoat or paint? Any relevant limitations on their use?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Just do what the graduating high schoolers do and use a bar of soap.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

be aware that many people see their cars as an extension of their body and will freak out accordingly about the perceived violation of their autonomy when they see all the stuff you wrote on their car, no matter how temporary and removable it is

GD_American
Jul 21, 2004

LISTEN TO WHAT I HAVE TO SAY AS IT'S INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT!

Cactus Ghost posted:

be aware that many people see their cars as an extension of their body and will freak out accordingly about the perceived violation of their autonomy when they see all the stuff you wrote on their car, no matter how temporary and removable it is

wait, the guy was talking about writing stuff on their own car.

you don't think there's an issue with writing poo poo on another person's car?

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TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

kid sinister posted:

Just do what the graduating high schoolers do and use a bar of soap.

Bars of soap are much more limited in terms of available colors and controlling stroke width and saturation.

But yeah, absolutely I would not do this to someone else's car without their permission!

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