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TooMuchAbstraction posted:But yeah, absolutely I would not do this to someone else's car without their permission! This is starting to sound like those bumper stickers you only put on your friend's car. "I DARE YOU PIGS TO PULL ME OVER"
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Feb 19, 2024 04:59
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kid sinister posted:This is starting to sound like those bumper stickers you only put on your friend's car. "I DARE YOU PIGS TO PULL ME OVER" I have only done something like this once, but in my defense it was pretty goddamned funny when he finally noticed 
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Feb 19, 2024 05:08
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PULL ME OVER IF U THINK COPS R LAME
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Feb 19, 2024 05:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:I would pull some measurements across similar points but that looks like your frame is hosed to me. Repairable, probably, but almost certainly not economically viable compared to replacing the truck and parting out what you have. After looking, pulling measurements, and talking to a friend, while it's repairable (just chop the whole front end off of both and swap), it's not viable since I'd have to remove the entire cab, etc. For $3k out the door like 7 years ago, it's been a drat good truck, but time to pour out a beer and move on.
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Feb 20, 2024 03:54
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Feb 20, 2024 04:23
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Ran into an issue that I have to imagine will be the end of my 2001 Honda Accord EX V6, but who knows. Here's the basic info: had this car since 2009-ish, after I got it as a cheap vehicle to run around town in. It's a rebuilt salvage (was totaled in a front-end crash before I got it) but hasn't had any major issues or accidents since. I've kept up on regular maintenance and honestly, the car does what I need it to do and doesn't give me trouble... until this month it seems. Within the last month or so, the car has had increasingly worrying issues that I originally chalked up to a dead battery (replaced after the car was out in a below-zero cold snap) but two different shops (including a Honda dealership) can't seem to pin down the exact cause. Basically, if I take it for a short drive (less than 10-15 mins, including running into a store and driving back home), it seems to be fine? If I attempt to drive for longer (say 45+ mins), stop to run into a store for 15-20 mins and then try to get into my car... it won't start. Acts very similar to a dead battery/alternator/starter/etc (aka can't turn over, has to turn the key a few times to get it to run) and I will still struggle to get it into reverse and get enough power to get it driving. The worst case is basically the above scenario but last Friday.... a noise I can basically only describe as a grinding noise coming from the hood (and I assume by proxy, the engine or belts?) occurred after an hour long drive (and a 20 minute pit-stop). I attempted to record this happening (while also simultaneously trying to desperately figure out if I could get the car into reverse) (video of said instance). (And yes, the front panel/wheel is dusty as all get-out.) I did manage to get the car into reverse (though it died twice before I could get enough momentum to get it into Drive and out of the parking lot I was in) and drove home. I haven't started the car since Friday because it's currently in a garage and I'm concerned starting it up and running into that issue again. Obviously, the car is 23 years old and a salvage, so I know it's not highly desirable (though I think(?) it has fairly low mileage for its age). If I can narrow down what this could be and its a doable repair, I am willing to try to repair it/get it repaired. But I also know that this is very likely a long shot and time may have just caught up with it. If it's not feasible to get it repaired, I plan on trying to find someone/someplace to sell it to who might try to fix it on their own because I desperately do not want to junk it if at all possible. If I can provide any additional information (or I have missed something crucial), please let me know. (If the video doesn't work... that I'm not sure I can fix, but I'll try.)
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Feb 20, 2024 05:33
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I could only see part of the tachometer but when the "grinding" starts your RPM dips and bounces like the engine is misfiring. Is your check engine light on or flashing? From the video and your description of struggling to keep it running in gear, it sounds to me like either a bad vacuum leak or it jumped timing. Either would cause a check engine light Do you know when the last time the timing belt was changed?
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Feb 20, 2024 06:20
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Apologies for the video quality. It looks like I had a combination of the TCS and Brake lights that were staying on after turning on the vehicle (while the SRS, ABS and my Side Airbag lights also came on and went away quickly afterwards). Im not seeing a check engine light on the dash from what I can tell, but I was planning on attempting to turn on the car tomorrow (if its safe) and can check then. The timing belt was last changed (iirc) pre-2020 but I can look at my records tomorrow and find out the date for sure.
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Feb 20, 2024 06:50
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I believe the check engine light should be in a cluster of 4 lights below the tachometer, it should come on and go out when you turn on the ignition, before you start the car.
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Feb 20, 2024 07:06
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Seiyal posted:Ran into an issue that I have to imagine will be the end of my 2001 Honda Accord EX V6, but who knows.
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Feb 20, 2024 19:57
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Sorry for the delay, took a bit to find and double-check my records but I had the timing belt on my car replaced in mid-2022 at approx 122K mileage. (At the same time, I also had the water pump and oil pump replaced as well; the water pump because timing belt replacement and the oil pump because it had developed a large crack and failed (iirc)) I ended up driving the car twice so far today, about 10 mins this morning and about 20 minutes this afternoon. (this morning's start-up) <- This is how things look when I start up the car, hopefully it's a little bit clearer to make out what lights up on the dash. Nothing seems to stay on past about 3-5 seconds but there's quite a few that come on with the car itself. Both drives overall seemed fine, though I felt like on the second drive that the start-up felt a bit weaker. The video is unfortunately from the first drive today, I didn't see anything light up on either drive outside of just turning the car on. It's also been a bit warmer today than the past few days so perhaps that was a good sign? Sadly I don't know much more than that. I plan to keep an eye on it and maybe try to turn it on/drive earlier tomorrow morning when it's cooler out to see if the weather is a bigger factor here. It was below freezing when I had the issues on Friday but it was in the low-mid 60s (15-18c) when I drove today for the high temperature. I'm not sure if this is any more of a help but I'm happy to provide more information if it can be of help.
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Feb 20, 2024 22:47
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My SWAG is that your fuel pump's going. Or possibly a throttle-body issue. No way its jumped timing when it starts that smoothly. Just sold my '00 Accord V6 coupe today with 280K on it. Ran great. Sounded just like that on start-up, too
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Feb 21, 2024 01:33
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Comparing your two videos, when it's having trouble it's sitting at around 600 rpm, on the edge of stalling. On cold start-up it's sitting around 1200. The way it runs there, i doubt it's anything major. It could be something like a coolant temp sensor, fuel pump, or main relay. Needing to hit the starter a few times before it starts to turn over could be a separate unrelated issue with the starter that is also made worse by higher under-hood temps. DildenAnders posted:Is it just me or does that sound like heat soak/vapor lock? I know it's not that common on fuel injected vehicles. Looking into it, that does seem to happen with them, and the solution is a colder-temp thermostat. Not guaranteed to be what's happening here but if you don't have the means to investigate by monitoring fuel pressure, an asian-model specific mechanic in your area will probably be able to figure it out pretty quickly. If this was me, before replacing parts my steps would be: Checking for codes, checking coolant temp sensor and fuel pressure reading with the code reader(an auto parts store will usually help with this for free) Check fuel pressure at the rail if nothing is indicated in the ECU(fuel pressure gauge required) Pull the main relay under the dash and check for damaged solder connections if the fuel pressure is fine Powershift fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Feb 21, 2024 |
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Feb 21, 2024 02:13
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Feb 21, 2024 02:34
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Had the local mechanic replace the starter with one I had provided. I think I might have paid a little more than I had liked for labor (it took them 2 hours to install then test) but its done now. Im not gonna celebrate until two weeks have passed. if I have no issues by then, I should be golden.
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Feb 21, 2024 03:09
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Honda Accord Touring 2013. Was driving the other day and the Sirius started bugging out like it would if blocked by buildings. It's done it through several days and restarts. I can't see the signal BER or anything, and the OE antenna looks fine and it anchored. It will pull station info but continuously play for 1 second then fade, repeating the cycle. Subscription is around for more months, not an activation issue. I was going to try to pull the fuse on the radio; other than that where can I find specs like where the antenna connector attaches in? Anything else I should try?
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Feb 21, 2024 15:25
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I'm in NY, my car is a few months out from its inspection because I am waiting on parts. I have noticed my brake caliper is locking up and I am due for an oil change. I don't have anywhere to do my own brake work/oil change at the moment. Can a shop scrape off my old sticker even if I ask them not to inspect the car?
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Feb 21, 2024 16:50
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Gothmog1065 posted:After looking, pulling measurements, and talking to a friend, while it's repairable (just chop the whole front end off of both and swap), it's not viable since I'd have to remove the entire cab, etc. For $3k out the door like 7 years ago, it's been a drat good truck, but time to pour out a beer and move on. sell it to your gung-ho friend with the welder
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Feb 23, 2024 12:39
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stupid automotive question: how hosed am i if i buy a pre-CA-smog (1975 or earlier) jeep cj? i know jeeps are legendary for how much money you can pour into them, my question is how much will I have to pour into it to daily drive it and/or go play in the dirt on my off days
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Feb 23, 2024 12:46
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Cactus Ghost posted:stupid automotive question: how hosed am i if i buy a pre-CA-smog (1975 or earlier) jeep cj? i know jeeps are legendary for how much money you can pour into them, my question is how much will I have to pour into it to daily drive it and/or go play in the dirt on my off days totally hosed. youre going to bankrupt yourself.
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Feb 23, 2024 15:08
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Ive been getting pretty poor gas mileage out of my 2012 TSX wagon. Im getting about 15 mpg city (normal driving). Anything I should check that could be causing this?
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Feb 23, 2024 16:03
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Head Bee Guy posted:Ive been getting pretty poor gas mileage out of my 2012 TSX wagon. Im getting about 15 mpg city (normal driving). Anything I should check that could be causing this? Bad thermostat/ECT causing the engine to not go into full loop...along with tons of others for it to run rich. You should be getting codes or a MIL.
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Feb 23, 2024 16:11
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C-Bangin' it 
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Cactus Ghost posted:stupid automotive question: how hosed am i if i buy a pre-CA-smog (1975 or earlier) jeep cj? i know jeeps are legendary for how much money you can pour into them, my question is how much will I have to pour into it to daily drive it and/or go play in the dirt on my off days Depends on skill, persistence, tools, and space to work on it.
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Feb 23, 2024 16:39
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Head Bee Guy posted:Ive been getting pretty poor gas mileage out of my 2012 TSX wagon. Im getting about 15 mpg city (normal driving). Anything I should check that could be causing this?
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Feb 23, 2024 16:54
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What are these connectors called? I'm trying to wire my camper shell into my brake light and can't track down this terminal so I can make a couple wiring harnesses. I can find 2.8 mm spade connections in similar housings easily, but not these pin connectors with the odd-shaped recesses.  
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Feb 23, 2024 17:06
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The bottom one almost looks like what I would have called a Tamiya connector if it was on an RC car battery. I also generally hate that style of connector and depending on wire gauge / expected power load, I'd use this as an excuse to cut the connectors off and use something better.
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Feb 23, 2024 17:14
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God that top one looks like the Isuzu connector that goes in to the back of the control box on the drill I've been fixing up for the last few weeks except its got about 20 wires instead of three. Same idea though, a bunch of round connections and then some flat sided ones. Sorry that doesn't help much. But unless you need to I'd do as the other goon says and just cut it off and put on a newer, more common connection.
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Feb 23, 2024 17:18
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Yeah, that's about what I've decided. It'll take longer to track down the exact fit and then find out the plastic on that one is all brittle and then I'd have to replace both anyway.
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Feb 23, 2024 17:29
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wesleywillis posted:totally hosed. good to know! one stupid car for morons is enough
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Feb 23, 2024 17:32
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TacoHavoc posted:I've had a car with about 80k experience a pretty significant fuel economy dropoff. I threw plugs and coils at it and the problem resolved instantly. The service interval on the plugs was 100k but who knows. I didn't have a CEL or a noticeable misfire. I did my plugs at 90k (at 108k now), and i checked my obd scanner and didnt get any codes.
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Feb 23, 2024 21:30
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Check your air filter, brakes after a 30 minute drive (see if a caliper is locking up perhaps?), and make sure you have the right type of gas.
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Feb 23, 2024 22:15
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TacoHavoc posted:I've had a car with about 80k experience a pretty significant fuel economy dropoff. I threw plugs and coils at it and the problem resolved instantly. The service interval on the plugs was 100k but who knows. I didn't have a CEL or a noticeable misfire. Its one of More info will help a ton.
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Feb 24, 2024 01:33
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Head Bee Guy posted:I’ve been getting pretty poor gas mileage out of my 2012 TSX wagon. I’m getting about 15 mpg city (normal driving). Anything I should check that could be causing this? Good things above but adding check your tire pressures. I can't imagine them being low enough to cause 15mpg without noticing but it's an easy check.
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Feb 24, 2024 20:20
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Did a dumb thing and backed my Rav4 Prime into my garage with my back passenger-side door open after installing baby car seat. The top of the door now doesn't fit as snugly under the top as it used to. How screwed am I in terms of repairs? Any guess at what kind of diagnosis sounds reasonable from a repair place? Still closes and locks fine, but I'm concerned about moisture getting in. Also will have to see if air coming in makes it loud to drive.      
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Feb 24, 2024 20:36
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Academician Nomad posted:Did a dumb thing and backed my Rav4 Prime into my garage with my back passenger-side door open after installing baby car seat. The top of the door now doesn't fit as snugly under the top as it used to. How screwed am I in terms of repairs? Any guess at what kind of diagnosis sounds reasonable from a repair place? Still closes and locks fine, but I'm concerned about moisture getting in. Also will have to see if air coming in makes it loud to drive. Nothing looks horribly out of position or bent. Ill bet a body shop could get it set like new for a pretty minimal cost. Ive gotten a similar repair done free, but a couple hundred or so wouldnt be unreasonable. Just be nice and see what they offer. FWIW a shot of the other door closed would help for comparison, but I think I see it decently enough.
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Feb 24, 2024 22:19
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Academician Nomad posted:Did a dumb thing and backed my Rav4 Prime into my garage with my back passenger-side door open after installing baby car seat. ... Roll the window down. Set the lumber. Place your hands on the sill at the vertical & horizontal, and literally push / bend the sill frame inwards. Repeat until the sill shutlines even out. It may take a few pushes, and you may have to 'overpush' it inwards a little because steel is tensile/elastic, so it'll flex back. The other method is to block the door wide open, and use two longer 2x4s, slipped through the window opening so that the inner surface of the boards contacts the outer frame, and the opposite contacts the inside of the windowsill. Drape towels over the sill & frame to protect the finish & upholstery & carefully pull. -or- take it to a body shop as suggested above PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Feb 24, 2024 |
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Feb 24, 2024 23:49
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Anybody know how to de-pin these? Evidently squirrels think this was delicious  It's the IMRC connector top rear of the intake on my 05 expedition. I have been searching for a replacement but don't see one that looks exactly like this on the various sites and i'd rather just de-pin and rewire myself. Tried my usual tiny screwdriver tricks and maybe i'm missing something, idk.
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Feb 25, 2024 20:58
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Worked both ends?
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Feb 25, 2024 21:27
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Jonny 290 posted:Anybody know how to de-pin these? Evidently squirrels think this was delicious You probably want something like this, there seem to be a few of them maybe the multi-ones cover all the bases. Available on amazon etc. I used something similar for my VW and it made it very easy. 
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Feb 25, 2024 21:29
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Colostomy Bag posted:Worked both ends? Back side is a tight fit with just the wire, no jeweler's screwdriver pokey clearance VelociBacon posted:You probably want something like this, there seem to be a few of them maybe the multi-ones cover all the bases. Available on amazon etc. I used something similar for my VW and it made it very easy. This looks like a handy thing to have around. I'll give it a crack
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Feb 25, 2024 22:29
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