|
Nebalebadingdong posted:zapper snow mobile, also from iliada It obviously all looks great (you fucker), but the chrome nmm on this thing is sick, also love the shadow on the windshield
|
# ? Feb 24, 2024 23:21 |
|
|
# ? May 13, 2024 11:41 |
|
Bohemian Nights posted:It obviously all looks great (you fucker), but the chrome nmm on this thing is sick, also love the shadow on the windshield that's actually a windshield wiper but that's a really good idea lol
|
# ? Feb 24, 2024 23:38 |
|
poo poo you're even good by accident!
|
# ? Feb 24, 2024 23:59 |
|
I hate all of it, I also especially hated the nmm that reflected the darn sky
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 00:44 |
|
Can you post a tutorial for the sand bases?
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 01:16 |
|
Under 15 posted:Can you post a tutorial for the sand bases? i will definitely write one, but i have some other tutorials that have to come first. im still kinda mastering the process, want to get it down to as few steps as possible
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 02:29 |
|
Finally calling her done. Learned a lot, had a ton of fun playing with pigments and very pleased with the end result. Could definitely gently caress around more with the hair and face, but I'm lazy. I'll strongly encourage anyone interesting as painting as the hobby itself to try 75mm scale. There's so much space to gently caress around, and the bigger scale is more forgiving of dodgy brush control.
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 18:21 |
|
Yeah painting a random miniature with no expectations for its own sake is the most fun I've had with them. What are the good ones in that size? There's so many different boutique places selling those thanks to 3d printing.
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 19:36 |
Lostconfused posted:Yeah painting a random miniature with no expectations for its own sake is the most fun I've had with them. anything that trips your trigger, really. I'm really fond of Bite the Bullet's 50mm tortles and other anthropormophic fantasy minis, a lot of my best work's been done on them, and the Stormlight statuettes have been great to paint as well.
|
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 20:24 |
|
As you say, there are plenty of amazing options to choose from, and it all depends on what you want. This one is from Big Child Creative. They have a load of really great human sculpts. Pegaso (Khimera) are also excellent. What's nice is that they're resin casts, so you get the sharpness and detail of resin without all of the fiddly support cleanup.
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 20:26 |
|
Oh, so like finecast.
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 20:27 |
|
I'd say with generally better production value? Haven't had issues like massive gaps or warping. The BCC sculpt fits together very well, did almost no gap filling and minimal mould line cleanup
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 20:31 |
|
Pullin' your leg. It's just endlessly funny to me that the world's biggest miniatures company consistently fucks up resin casting hard, while guys have been making pristine garage kits for longer than GW's been around.
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 20:43 |
|
grassy gnoll posted:Pullin' your leg. It's not that surprising, really; once a business gets above a certain size, they start cutting costs and taking shortcuts, because they start focusing on the short-term costs over the long-term profits.
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 20:46 |
|
Yeah, Forge World were always fully capable of cleaning their kits of release agent, for example. They simply chose not to because it was an added step in production that the managers didn't want to deal with. Apparently GW resin is a lot better overall now, both compared to old FW and the hilariously poo poo Finecast.
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 21:18 |
|
Forge world kits are still extremely half assed with clean up. The amount of flashing is just obnoxious, and there’s some pieces that simply need to be rethought for production. At least in the Necromunda space. I’ll still buy their crap tho. So.
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 21:23 |
|
Wasn't the problem (among many) with Finecast that they were just using the existing steel molds for pewter minis to cast the resin Finecast? Which is not something you can really do.
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 22:19 |
|
Radiation Cow posted:Finally calling her done. Learned a lot, had a ton of fun playing with pigments and very pleased with the end result. Could definitely gently caress around more with the hair and face, but I'm lazy. This is great. The NMM is cool but i really like the texture on the cloth and leather.
|
# ? Feb 25, 2024 22:29 |
|
Hello! I'm looking for some paint/weathering tips for a project. It's not a mini, but I figure you all would still know best. I have a plastic case that I want to paint black. I also want to somehow weather/distress it so that where the paint is missing, it looks like bare metal. It can't be as easy as putting on a few coats of nickel and then black over top can it? Then just wear through the black in places?
|
# ? Feb 26, 2024 04:52 |
|
Ghostnuke posted:Hello! I'm looking for some paint/weathering tips for a project. It's not a mini, but I figure you all would still know best. The easiest way to do it is sponge weathering. Paint your surface black, then use a torn up sponge to dab on irregular splotches of metal colored paint. It looks great on miniatures but might look fake on a large surface. Alternatively you could use Chipping Medium, or the old salt and hair-spray technique for something that large. Basically you paint it metal color, then give it a clear varnish, then apply a chipping medium, then paint your surface color. After that you go over it with a toothpick or stiff bristle brush and rub away the surface color where you want to show wear and reveal the underlying metal color. After you're done you give it a final varnish to lock in all the colors. The Hairspray and salt method is similar but instead of chipping medium you spray hairspray on your surface and then scatter rock salt on it so it sticks. After you paint your surface color you can use water to dissolve the rock salt and reveal the color underneath. It's a good technique for large objects that you just want random paint scratches and chips as opposed to the more intentional effect you'll get with chipping medium. You might get more details in the Cosplay thread in DIY, or by checking out prop making youtub channels.
|
# ? Feb 26, 2024 05:30 |
|
Ratguts, or Grats?
|
# ? Feb 26, 2024 07:22 |
|
grassy gnoll posted:Ratguts, or Grats? Please tell me you also got the kitty Griffith.
|
# ? Feb 26, 2024 10:48 |
|
Ever since I got a vortex mixer my teeth have become whiter, my skin more moisturized and my hair thicker and lusher. and a girl actually smiled at me! thanks, vortex mixer!
|
# ? Feb 26, 2024 13:47 |
|
Al-Saqr posted:Ever since I got a vortex mixer my teeth have become whiter, my skin more moisturized and my hair thicker and lusher. and a girl actually smiled at me! Speaking of vortex mixers, what's a good cheap vortex mixer to get in the UK? the ones on Amazon are anything from 30 to 100. Is this a case of them all coming from the same factory in China and just being priced randomly by resellers?
|
# ? Feb 26, 2024 14:05 |
|
Look for ones that say they're for mixing nail polish. Those are more than good enough. Just be careful not to drop one of the cheap ones, because internally they're made on the cheap and they may not handle falling from desk height onto a hard floor.
|
# ? Feb 26, 2024 14:44 |
|
It's also worth buying some cheap glass beads to drop in as agitators! They don't weigh as much as metal, but they also don't rust.
|
# ? Feb 26, 2024 16:06 |
|
Yeah, glass aquarium gravel will absolutely do the job, and gets you a ton on the cheap.
|
# ? Feb 26, 2024 19:36 |
|
Cue the song. You know the one.
|
# ? Feb 27, 2024 02:37 |
|
First attempt at masking didn't go all that well, ah well, guess there's next time. It probably won't be as noticeable if I add a lot of heavy weathering on top.
|
# ? Feb 27, 2024 03:36 |
I should probably get a varnish or something as well as a pin drill for serious engineering, right? Or something to put on top once the kits are 'done' and Idon't want to gently caress around with the paints no more.
|
|
# ? Feb 27, 2024 04:47 |
|
Lostconfused posted:First attempt at masking didn't go all that well, ah well, guess there's next time. That should be easy enough to touch up with your base green. Even if it's not a perfect color match it will be close enough that a touch of wash and weathering will hide it.
|
# ? Feb 27, 2024 07:05 |
|
If you do a layer of your base color first, it will 'seal' your masks and reduce or even outright prevent bleed.
|
# ? Feb 27, 2024 07:21 |
|
I'll try that next time, but here I think at least a part of the base layer came away with the masking tape. So yeah a touchup of base paint will be next.
|
# ? Feb 27, 2024 13:39 |
|
Lostconfused posted:I'll try that next time, but here I think at least a part of the base layer came away with the masking tape. So yeah a touchup of base paint will be next. Put the tape on your jeans / pants first, then put it on the model. The little layer of fuzz makes it come off super easy w/ much less of a chance of pulling up paint.
|
# ? Feb 27, 2024 14:56 |
|
Kylaer posted:Cue the song. You know the one. This cries out for the tiniest Bluetooth speaker and possibly hydraulics.
|
# ? Feb 27, 2024 15:26 |
|
Nessus posted:I should probably get a varnish or something as well as a pin drill for serious engineering, right? Or something to put on top once the kits are 'done' and Idon't want to gently caress around with the paints no more. Pin vise is super handy to have in general, I use it a lot when basing to make sure those fuckers arent going anywere, and occasionally when putting figures together (particularly metal models). Varnishing is a matter of taste. Some people dont bother at all, I'd say most people do, both for protection and to unify the finish (especially if you are using a mix of different brands paints, so have some satiny finishes, some matte). Personally I give everything a coat or two of gloss for protection, then matte because I prefer that finish, all with rattlecans. More or less any clear varnishes will do. Or you can buy pots and brush or airbrush on, but I'm cheap, lazy and have access to an outdoor area for spraying so aerosol can of cheap car lacquer is coat 1, then whatever matte varnish.
|
# ? Feb 27, 2024 18:37 |
|
6mm gun wagon from the lazy forger
|
# ? Feb 27, 2024 19:08 |
SiKboy posted:Pin vise is super handy to have in general, I use it a lot when basing to make sure those fuckers arent going anywere, and occasionally when putting figures together (particularly metal models). Varnishing is a matter of taste. Some people dont bother at all, I'd say most people do, both for protection and to unify the finish (especially if you are using a mix of different brands paints, so have some satiny finishes, some matte). Personally I give everything a coat or two of gloss for protection, then matte because I prefer that finish, all with rattlecans. More or less any clear varnishes will do. Or you can buy pots and brush or airbrush on, but I'm cheap, lazy and have access to an outdoor area for spraying so aerosol can of cheap car lacquer is coat 1, then whatever matte varnish.
|
|
# ? Feb 27, 2024 19:14 |
|
I use mine for projects around the home just because it’s faster than locating the drill and finding the right bit
|
# ? Feb 27, 2024 20:20 |
|
|
# ? May 13, 2024 11:41 |
|
Nessus posted:I ordered a drill but this pin vise is new. I was having success just holding the figure in place for 2m then if necessary moving it to the kitchen with the exhaust fan to cure. I did throw in some double sided tape for securing the minis on scraps of cardboard for priming. I don’t have an official Crafts Space at my place but I am confident I can use some scrap cardboard as a backstop for priming spray A pin vise is a small handheld manual drill (it holds the drill bit). Just clarifying, since it seemed like you might be talking about the kind of vise that holds objects to a work bench while you work on them.
|
# ? Feb 27, 2024 20:33 |