|
cruft posted:Josef Prusa wants you to change file formats. And the 3D Printers thread does, too.
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 02:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 12:06 |
|
|
I keep finding myself with, like, 1m of filament left on these specialty spools. I'm sure this isn't unique to me. What sorts of junk do y'all print to chew through leftover filament?
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 03:33
|
|
|
one meter of filament? throw it out dude. it's worth like ten cents
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 03:35
|
|
|
Give it away as a gift.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 03:35
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:one meter of filament? throw it out dude. it's worth like ten cents LOL so far I've made:
Ooh look at this cute tiny space ship! withak posted:Give it away as a gift. Yes, precisely. People like getting them 
cruft fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Feb 26, 2024 |
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 03:38
|
|
|
cruft posted:I keep finding myself with, like, 1m of filament left on these specialty spools. I usually just feed it into a print that's being used for utility purposes where the color change doesn't matter.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 03:55
|
|
|
I print disposable funnels which I use one-and-done for pouring messy poo poo like resin. Not this model specifically, but gives you the right idea: https://www.printables.com/model/264524-vase-mode-funnel
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 06:40
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:I do my own work in STEP as much as possible these days. Mesh formats in general can suck it for mechanical parts. Other than that, I honestly don't care what the format is as long as it loads and prints. Yeah. I like Prusa on a lot of things but meshes can gently caress off into the sun, if the industry moves to a new default format it should be STEP, a proper geometry format, not some band aid fix for 10% of the shortcomings of STL.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 06:45
|
|
|
disposable vase mode funnels are a glorious life hack I cannot recommend highly enough
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 06:46
|
|
|
With an ams I just print things as normal and switch to a new spool as needed. Flexi rexes are old and done, but kids still have joy getting one handed to them for no obligation at all
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 16:34
|
|
|
cruft posted:I keep finding myself with, like, 1m of filament left on these specialty spools. There are "last meter" models on thingaverse/printables/etc. I would go with this one, https://www.printables.com/model/211403-last-meter-building-blocks, although if you have any elephant's foot you'll need to sort that out or they won't lock together right.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 17:14
|
|
|
We got an Eibos Cyclopes filament dryer and I was wondering if it was safe to use with filaments on cardboard spools? Not sure how hot cardboard can get safely.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 17:34
|
|
|
Ignition temperature should be ~250 C. Should be safe in the dryer. Without knowing the design of the dryer, If some cardboard dust would fall directly on the heating elements it might be possible to ignite it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 18:58
|
|
|
DoLittle posted:Ignition temperature should be ~250 C. Should be safe in the dryer. It's a ptc but also has a diverter directly on top so kind of hard for dust to get into it, IIRC the ptc has a 150C breaker.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2024 21:05
|
|
|
Bobulus posted:I've got the Prusa MK3S+ and I'm seriously considering the upgrade to 3.5, which gets you a 32 bit motherboard, a color screen, and alleged increased printing speed. I feel like a full upgrade to 4.0 is probably overboard for the moderate amount of printing I do, but 3.5 might be just right. A few days late, but I upgraded my MK3S+ with Revo hotend to a MK3.5. I think it’s worth it, but you might wait for another firmware release to iron out some teething issues. Mine won’t pass the hotend selftest due to the Revo, and mesh bed leveling isn’t working quite as intended. The Octoprint implementation isn’t 100% there yet, but it seems like it should be functional. Take a look at the firmware 5.2.0 release notes and see what you think. Speed-wise, I saw print times cut in half (even faster in some cases). Quality looks about the same as before, which was always pretty good on my printer. The new board also bakes in a lot of nice quality of life improvements that are pretty slick (filament handling/changes, heating logic, purge routine, etc.)
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2024 13:03
|
|
|
Had an exciting new error happen; the middle of a model failed to be printed. I have never seen this before, and didn't even think it was possible.  There was also a blob of resin stuck to the bottom of the vat after the print that I peeled off. I've been making stuff for 2 years now, and except for recently updating the firmware, I've not changed any of my settings. Is this something that I need to worry about, or is this some strange one-off event? This is an Anycubic Photon Mono SE.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2024 02:28
|
|
|
Is that a Battletech mech?
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2024 02:29
|
|
|
Warbird posted:Is that a Battletech mech? Sure is! A Vulture/Mad Dog. I've printed about 50 mechs now for myself and my gf over the last year.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2024 02:41
|
|
|
Are the models just out there? I wouldn’t mind printing couple myself.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2024 02:46
|
|
|
Warbird posted:Are the models just out there? I wouldn’t mind printing couple myself. There's many sources, but this guy is my favourite. He rips them from MWO, and adjusts them a smidge to print better. Really pretty. https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Syllogy His new ones are $2 a pop, but theres many that are free.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2024 02:51
|
|
|
Appreciate it, thanks
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2024 03:04
|
|
|
Anyone have any idea what happened here and how to prevent it? The loopy dudes on the prime tower are where the messed up spots are on the model. Even the lighter pink filament looks like it layer shifted or something on the same layer. A1 mini w/AMS, pink is Bambu basic PLA, the lighter color is by a company called cookiecad. For the Bambu one I used their profile that loaded from the RFID on the spool.    
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2024 05:15
|
|
|
Fashionable Jorts posted:Had an exciting new error happen; the middle of a model failed to be printed. I have never seen this before, and didn't even think it was possible. This is fine. What happened is the leg fell off at some point but when more connecting structures came along it touched the resin blob and picked it back up onto the model later. Nothing to be done here except clean your sheet. Also now you have a wrecked mech marker.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2024 07:03
|
|
|
Synthbuttrange posted:This is fine. What happened is the leg fell off at some point but when more connecting structures came along it touched the resin blob and picked it back up onto the model later. Nothing to be done here except clean your sheet. OK good, glad I don't have to worry about some weird new error. Thanks. That's the plan! Gonna scuff it up more and turn it into a nice wreck.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2024 07:19
|
|
|
Actually you could try add a few more supports to that foot before trying to reprint. but that's all it is, just the leg deciding for some reason to come loose.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2024 11:39
|
|
|
https://techcrunch.com/2024/02/28/anycubic-users-3d-printers-hacked-warning/?guccounter=1 Well thats not great. Dont have your anycubic connected directly to the internet for now.
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2024 05:19
|
|
|
I have a bit of a weird program, I have a neptune 3 pro on which I'm running klipper through a raspi. Everything works well enough but for some weird reason my nozzle height will randomly vary by exactly 0.200 every few turning ons, like, it'll print perfectly, then next time I turn it on it's suddenly 0.200 too low (or too high, depending on what it was before) Absolutely no idea where to even start trouble shooting, is there any reason why this would ever happen?
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2024 10:06
|
|
|
Son of Rodney posted:I have a bit of a weird program, I have a neptune 3 pro on which I'm running klipper through a raspi. Everything works well enough but for some weird reason my nozzle height will randomly vary by exactly 0.200 every few turning ons, like, it'll print perfectly, then next time I turn it on it's suddenly 0.200 too low (or too high, depending on what it was before) That just sounds like a Z stepper settling from a microstep step when losing power. Or something funky going on with your z endstop.
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2024 10:26
|
|
|
Synthbuttrange posted:https://techcrunch.com/2024/02/28/anycubic-users-3d-printers-hacked-warning/?guccounter=1 Or indirectly, it sounds like.
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2024 14:38
|
|
|
lol crap, dont try to dry out your silica pods in a filament dryer without putting a barrier between the pods and the heating elements at the bottom
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2024 14:44
|
|
|
cruft posted:Or indirectly, it sounds like. if it makes a noise i'm gonna shoot it
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2024 16:16
|
|
|
Tiny Timbs posted:lol crap, dont try to dry out your silica pods in a filament dryer without putting a barrier between the pods and the heating elements at the bottom Did you start a fire?.
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2024 19:20
|
|
|
Well, it happened again. I cleaned the vat and everything, nothing stuck to the bottom before printing. Red circle is another case of it being messed up partway though then continuing, theres a few other spots that just stopped and stuck to the bottom of the tray. Plenty of supports, and some of the failed are the same object as successful ones (for the most part I printed two of each thing) 
|
|
#
?
Feb 29, 2024 22:21
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:I was doing some computer housekeeping last night and ran across a copy of what I think was the last release of Autodesk's 123D Design. If you haven't heard of it, it was part of an entire suite of programs that supported a pretty comprehensive "maker" work flow. It's where (a quite different at the time) Tinkercad was born. Then they killed the whole thing way back in 2017, just a couple months after I'd finally bought my very own 3D printer and was diving head first into learning the design side of things. Thanks Autodesk, that was awesome of you! Thanks for posting this, I gave it a shot today to make a simple rectangle thing and it was totally fine for doing a sketch + extrude on a basic shape. I like that it's like a simplified version of Fusion in the basics of how it's used with sketching shapes and extruding them out to make them 3D. Maker's Muse recently did a video comparing the free* CAD software available now and what he thinks are the plusses and minuses of each: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J--QVhGheP4
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2024 00:19
|
|
|
After watching that video, I gave Ondsel a try. It's still not perfect, but I managed to put together a part pretty quickly once I understood the quirks. For whatever reason, Fusion 360 takes 30+ minutes to launch on my machine, so I was looking for an alternative. Very fortuitous.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2024 00:23
|
|
|
Fashionable Jorts posted:Well, it happened again. I cleaned the vat and everything, nothing stuck to the bottom before printing. Red circle is another case of it being messed up partway though then continuing, theres a few other spots that just stopped and stuck to the bottom of the tray. This looks like insufficient support (still). That said- is there a reason you're trying to print parts with a big flat base off of the build platform? Just stick those suckers to it directly, that's always the path of least resistance if you can manage it. You'll get bumpy uneven bottoms on parts like that you support, even if they print correctly, it's basically unavoidable. The build platform will give a flat base a perfect flat finish. Also- if you keep printing stuff like that on supports, angle it by like, 5-10 degrees, along its longer axis. That will dramatically reduce the amount of material being cured all at once (when it's flat it'll try to do the whole base simultaneously), which will significantly reduce the pull-off forces that are ripping your prints off their supports. e: those bases look very thin, but you can make your life easier there by adding a base layer in the slicer, ideally with a silhouette profile. For those parts it'll effectively just make a much thicker base, which you want for the bases to stay flat and not curl within 24 hours of post-curing. e: whoops just saw you've been doing this for a while, this is probably not all that helpful. i think the printing-on-plate thing still applies, tho, and that really does look like a pretty scant support set for the failed ones. I'd be using a much denser approach Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Mar 1, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2024 05:00
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:e: whoops just saw you've been doing this for a while, this is probably not all that helpful. i think the printing-on-plate thing still applies, tho, and that really does look like a pretty scant support set for the failed ones. I'd be using a much denser approach Huh, when I first started printing I had some bad times with printing directly on the plate, I think it kinda scared me off of it. Definitely willing to give it a try again if it'll save me from failures. Ive always used chitubox's auto support generation with no issue (until now, obviously). I wonder if the settings got adjusted somehow with a patch or something and it's doing fewer now than it used to. I'll poke around and see.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2024 06:11
|
|
|
Printing directly on the plate gives stuff a fat lip because of the extra first x layer exposure times. There's compensation built into slices these days but you have to manually enter the figure yourself. You can also try increasing your support thickness. I assume those are going into the unseen underside so go hog wild with them. or just keep increasing support density til it works
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2024 09:36
|
|
|
Is there a preferred build plate for printing PETG on a Bambu X1C?
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2024 10:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 12:06 |
|
|
Listerine posted:Is there a preferred build plate for printing PETG on a Bambu X1C? For petg I recommend using some sort of goo so if the petg sticks a little too well it doesn't wreck your plate.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2024 10:08
|
|