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El Grillo posted:Anyone got any advice on how to un-stick the offside rear brake drum/wheel on my 2005 Polo? First thing is to remove the screw, there, that's holding the drum to the hub.
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Mar 2, 2024 17:17
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I just noticed some substantial damage on one of my tires. I have no idea where it came from, and I feel like I would have noticed it. I literally just got the oil changed today, and I wonder if they rotated the tires and I noticed it because that tire on the front drivers side door now? Anyway, these tires were purchased new and have less than 50K miles on them. They were pretty nice tires as well. What could cause this kind of damage?? How quickly does something like this appear?  
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Mar 2, 2024 17:32
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That looks like long-term underinflation. The tire will buckle up in the middle of the tread and ride on the sidewalls.
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Mar 2, 2024 17:49
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Seconding underinflation damage.
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Mar 2, 2024 18:00
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Hmmm... The tire pressure sensor has only ever gone off once, and the tires were checked and reinflated within 5 miles. I basically immediately pulled into the first station I found with a pump and gauge.
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Mar 2, 2024 18:03
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The whole outside edge of that tire looks hosed up. Do the others look like that? When is the last time the car had an alignment done.
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Mar 2, 2024 18:31
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wesleywillis posted:The whole outside edge of that tire looks hosed up. Do the others look like that? When is the last time the car had an alignment done. I had an alignment done in May 2021 when the tires were installed. The shop I get my oil change at also does alignments, but they're closed on the weekend so I can't get my receipts, and Costco wants receipts to honor the warranty. None of the other tires have that damage, but the Costco guy says they all "look shot". E: The Costco guy said he needs to see proof of tire rotation, not alignment, so I don't know what's going on. Either way I'm basically hosed because I don't get paid until the 15th lmao. Can't afford to replace the tires until then. Annath fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Mar 2, 2024 |
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Mar 2, 2024 18:53
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Did you, or anyone else who might drive the car run in to a curb or hit a pothole? I don't know specifically about the damage aside from what others are saying, but the rest of the outside edge of that tire could be from underinflation or a bad alignment. I'm not you and you aren't me, but I get my stuff aligned twice a year. Thats probably excessive, but it works for me. You might want to check the alignment and get it done a bit more frequently.
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Mar 2, 2024 19:29
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I hit a deer last fall (low speed, like 25MPH, fucker jumped in front of me) but I had the car repaired at a collision center and I assume they rotated/aligned it. I'm gonna be honest, nobody ever told me much about vehicle maintenance other than getting inspections and oil changes. When the car was much newer (it's a 2015 Mazda3) it got all the scheduled maintenance, until I couldn't afford the $100-$250 every time. I always saw places saying they did tire rotations with oil changes but I never really understood what alignment was and assumed that was something done when you bought new tires. I'm the only person who drives the car. I've definitely hit some potholes, but not at highway speed (I rarely drive on the highway). As far as hitting a curb... Probably? I mean I'm sure I have at some point, but again not at any speed as far as I can recall. E: well, my parents are going to let me borrow their car until I can get new tires. Definitely never going to Costco again though. My mom was dumbstruck that Costco was asking for all these receipts - apparently when she's gotten tires replaced under warranty (at Walmart and another time at a local repair shop) they replaced them no questions asked since they were within the mileage warranty. Annath fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Mar 2, 2024 |
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Mar 2, 2024 19:49
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Does that car show tire pressure for each tire, or does a just general warning come on? Some systems are looking at just wheel rotation I think. Tire pressure is something you should check on a periodic basis.
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Mar 2, 2024 20:30
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phosdex posted:Does that car show tire pressure for each tire, or does a just general warning come on? Some systems are looking at just wheel rotation I think. Tire pressure is something you should check on a periodic basis. It just gives a warning, when I go to the warnings screen it will say "low tire pressure", but not specifically which one. However, the handful of times its come on I checked each tire and added air as needed based on the pressure listed on the door panel label. I'm in my 30s, so I guess I just got lucky, or maybe unlucky, that I never ran into this kind of thing when I was younger and my grandpa was still around to teach me about it lol. He was the only one who ever told me anything about maintaining cars, or anything else.
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Mar 2, 2024 20:34
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Annath posted:I never really understood what alignment was and assumed that was something done when you bought new tires. Alignment controls how well your tires are lined up with "forward" on your car. There are three degrees of freedom: toe, camber, and caster. Toe controls whether the front of a wheel is pointed slightly in or out relative to forward. Camber controls whether the top of a wheel is pointed in or out relative to straight up and down. Caster rotates the wheel hub about the center of the wheel, like the front wheels of a shopping cart. Your car is designed to operate with specific toe, camber, and caster angles, but they're adjustable to compensate for a little damage or bashing around your car might get. It's a good idea to get your alignment checked periodically. It can lead to tire wear or your car handling weird. Rotating your tires means swapping them front to back and left to right. This balances wear between all four of your tires Just judging by what I see, it looks like that tire has been under inflated and possibly suffering from too much toe in angle.
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Mar 2, 2024 20:38
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Safety Dance posted:Alignment controls how well your tires are lined up with "forward" on your car. There are three degrees of freedom: toe, camber, and caster. Got it. I appreciate the info from y'all. I'm going to have to start being more diligent about this stuff. I thought I was doing good by getting the oil changed on time and paying for the high grade stuff lol. Luckily, work owes me a bonus, so if I can make it to the 15th I can replace probably the whole set of tires.
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Mar 2, 2024 20:45
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Annath posted:Got it. Maybe once a month spend a few minutes on the weekend checking the oil and coolant levels, refill the washer reservoir, and check the tire pressures. None of that is very difficult and can save a lot of problems when you're out on the road.
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Mar 2, 2024 20:48
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Alignment isn't automatically included with tire rotation, service, or even new installs in most places. If it was a service offered at your tire shop, it would likely be offered as an extra service that you'd agree to. My last alignment cost me around $100, and I've seen local quotes around $75. It's not terrible and definitely necessary.
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Mar 2, 2024 20:56
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Annath posted:Got it. You should consider getting your other fluids changed too at some point in the not too distant future. Most people think the only thing you need to do is change the oil and "its maintained", but brake fluid, coolant, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, should all be replaced periodically. Differential and transfer case should be done too but you don't have those in a Mazda 3. The one thing people might recommend against however is the transmission (unless its manual) fluid. Unless you are actually having issues with the transmission. When transmissions go way too long without a fluid change sometimes changing the fluid can contribute to other expensive problems so in certain cases you might just be better off monitoring the fluid level and topping it off if necessary.
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Mar 2, 2024 21:11
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I’m thinking about buying an older Toyota Avalon, something like a 2010 to 2016 When searching, I’ve noticed that engine swaps are not uncommon on these cars Is that a problem?
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Mar 3, 2024 14:50
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wesleywillis posted:The one thing people might recommend against however is the transmission (unless its manual) fluid. Unless you are actually having issues with the transmission. There is a lot of anecdotal support for that idea, though I don't know if it's ever actually been studied scientifically. Hypothetically the same principle applies to other components but in practice an automatic transmission as a complicated hydraulic machine has a lot more narrow passages and such where a restriction in fluid flow would be a critical problem compared to an engine or differential. I do wonder sometimes whether a modern automatic where valvebodies that are essentially hydraulic computers have been replaced with a few solenoids operated by electronics makes this more or less of a concern. For what it's worth I've done a full flush on two cars that were both over 10 years and 100k miles old, both with basically the same transmission (one AOD-E, one 4R70W) and in both cases shifting behavior improved. One of the two cars was totaled a few weeks later (though I later tracked it down and found it was rebuilt by a body shop and apparently ran until rats ate the wiring harness), the other ran for another three years and only died after being jumped so hard the engine broke off the mounts.
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Mar 4, 2024 16:13
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Thanks for all the info. I've got an appointment with a mechanic I trust to do a full assessment of the tires/suspension/whatever, as well as do any maintenence it might be overdue for. In the meantime my parents let me borrow one of their cars so I don't risk blowing this one out between now and the 14th when I'm taking it to the shop.
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Mar 4, 2024 16:19
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50k miles is also reasonable for tire life for what it's worth.
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Mar 4, 2024 16:40
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:50k miles is also reasonable for tire life for what it's worth. Sure, but these tires were warranted for 50K, they had only been used for around 30K.
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Mar 4, 2024 17:47
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Annath posted:Sure, but these tires were warranted for 50K, they had only been used for around 30K. It would have been helpful to include that information up front! You just said "less than 50k miles" which usually means "close to but less than 50k"
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Mar 4, 2024 17:51
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:It would have been helpful to include that information up front! You just said "less than 50k miles" which usually means "close to but less than 50k" My bad.
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Mar 4, 2024 18:03
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Annath posted:My bad. all good. you have a good course of action!
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Mar 4, 2024 18:13
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Lmao I dug up my warranty info from Costco, and apparently their warranty doesn't cover "rapid or irregular wear" anyway. I wouldn't have spent all the time trying to dig up receipts for tire rotations if the guy had told me they weren't going to replace them anyway.
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Mar 4, 2024 18:42
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I blew up the engine on my Focus RS and Ford replaced it + turbo under warranty. I'm finding the car is signifcantly louder, and the exhaust really changes pitch when the turbo spools than before it blew up. It's definitely turbo and not revs, as everything sounds pretty normal when I just rev it out without going into boost and I can replicate it anywhere between 2500-4500rpm. Is there some loose exhaust or something that could cause this? Or maybe it's just psychosomatic as it's been ~7 months since I've been getting on the car harder. Ford said they didn't touch the ECU so should be same tune as before.
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Mar 4, 2024 19:34
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Sipher posted:I blew up the engine on my Focus RS and Ford replaced it + turbo under warranty. I'm finding the car is signifcantly louder, and the exhaust really changes pitch when the turbo spools than before it blew up. It's definitely turbo and not revs, as everything sounds pretty normal when I just rev it out without going into boost and I can replicate it anywhere between 2500-4500rpm. Could be an exhaust leak yes but weird it wouldn't be noticeable when off boost.
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Mar 4, 2024 19:40
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Here's a legit stupid question. What's the cheapest way to get a 21st century Ferrari engine in a car? A 02-05 Maserati Coupe?
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Mar 4, 2024 20:00
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drive your car to a fancy pick n pull and open the trunk probably
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Mar 4, 2024 20:00
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Complete idiot question... what resources/metrics do y'all use to estimate the value of an older car other than say KBB? I'm semi-seriously looking at old 90s 300ZXs and really don't know what's the fair range I should be operating within.
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Mar 5, 2024 23:59
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To get a high end, I'd look at the last ~year or so of Bring a Trailer auctions that actually sold, and look at the floor of those. Those are all going to be in unnaturally good shape. Then look at your local Craigslist / Facebook marketplace for the real poo poo rusted out ran when parked examples. The real number will fall somewhere in that range. https://bringatrailer.com/nissan/z32-300zx/ Looks like some decent examples are going for sub-$20k Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Mar 6, 2024 |
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Mar 6, 2024 00:17
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Auction prices. model-specific forums. Hagerty is starting to include japanese stuff. Bring a trailer always goes high, to get an idea of the upper bounds. Mecum in general only has lower mile/nicer examples. Hagerty lists the 92 TT for example at 12,000 CAD in fair condtion, 32,200 CAD in good condition, -15% for automatic. That's about where they end up on BAT. https://bringatrailer.com/nissan/z32-300zx/
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Mar 6, 2024 00:22
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Hagerty also has a valuation tool which lets you see ranges and changes over time. Looks like they've changed it so you only get to see Good Condition price without registering and I think locks you out after a few searches. https://www.hagerty.com/valuation-tools
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Mar 6, 2024 19:51
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Neat, but it is missing a LOT of fine adjustment. I couldn’t even specify which engine option when I searched a vehicle
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Mar 6, 2024 20:32
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Is this the place to ask about UTVs? Family farm is mostly being sold, except for the part my dad is keeping. That includes equipment. Had a John Deere HPX 4x4 Gator ATV to drive between the vines and had a plastic chemical tank on bank for doing spot spraying for weeds. The bed can be manually lifted to tilt and dump but the times I've actually used that feature can be counted on one hand. It's old (I want to say it's an early 2000s model, like 2004), it's had problems (battery drain, alignment issues, oil leak, etc.), buttons are worn off on the basic controls, lights barely work. I also remember that frame is super low to the ground and I've had to wedge that thing out of the mud, which can rarely happen inbetween the vines sometime. I can probably get it to run but it's going to have more problems. An auctioneer is being asked to list everything and we can "purchase" it at the planned list price, which is $5,000. I'm guessing that... if I only need it to drive between vines, carry tools and supplies, maybe a full chemical tank... I can get a lot more UTV for my money by buying a different used or new model. Plus John Deere really doesn't seem worth the money these days (separate issue from all the DRM crap they put in many of their newer tractors now). So I come asking: If I'm wanting to spend 5 grand, maybe up to 10 grand on a replacement UTV, what model/year should I look for? Price ranges? Feature sets? Things to avoid? Dad was mainly the mechanic but now he's going through cancer and gastroparesis and a bunch of other stuff, so while he'll be in a better place to guide me on tractor repair later I kind of need to come up with a different solution for a UTV.
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Mar 7, 2024 01:09
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I am at my wit’s end trying to make the brakes work on our project 1974 Scout and will take any and all ideas of what we’re missing. I am going to err on the side of way too much information because we have countless hours into it and had two legit and trusted mechanics go hands-on with no success. Problem statement: No brake pedal resistance. Little to no stopping power. At idle on jackstands, the brakes will eventually stop the rear wheels very lazily (we have not tested actual stopping power for obvious reasons). Problem start: We removed the entire front axle and rebuilt everything associated. The brakes have not functioned since reassembling. Reference - https://i.imgur.com/WFUW9Nk.jpg Parts: I am going to break the current brake system down into three categories: Original (Was on the truck when we purchased it, has been driven on and functioned), Newish (Has been replaced by us, previously driven on and functioned) and New (Completely new, not yet driven on and has never functioned properly). Original: All hard lines minus the two rear lines on the rear axle Junction / distribution block just downstream of the master cylinder Rear drums Rear drum backing plates Front rotors (though one is freshly turned) Brake booster bracket + pedal linkage Brake pedal Master cylinder (though no longer available since we ruined a seal disassembling and reassembling) Front banjo bolts (the new banjos included with the new calipers were too long to seat on the brake lines) Parking brake pedal Front parking brake cable Newish: Rear drum internals (springs, shoes and all that) This aftermarket master / booster / bracket / linkage combo (note: is not currently installed) - https://dandcextreme.com/product/scout-ii-power-brake-booster-kit/ Rear brake lines New: Aftermarket master cylinder #2 (identical PN to the one included with the combo linked above) OEM replacement master cylinder OEM replacement brake booster Aftermarket Front brake hoses (extended length due to lift) OEM replacement front brake calipers Brake pads Front copper washers Rear parking brake cable Things we’ve tried: Oh boy I am almost certainly going to forget details here. To the best of my recollection: -Original state immediately after front end reassembly was the aftermarket booster / master setup. This did not work after multiple bleed attempts. -Acquire and use Motive pressure bleeder. No change. -Replace kit aftermarket master with identical and bench-bled aftermarket bleeder. No change. -Replace entire aftermarket setup with bench-bled OEM replacement master, OEM replacement booster and original bracket setup. More bleeding, no change. -Acquire and use hand vacuum pump bleeder. We had very little luck getting fluid out with this and resulted in no change. -Like a million more bleeding attempts. I am so loving sick of brake fluid and it’s ruined almost every part of our freshly painted front end. Current state: -First brake pump goes right to the floor even without vacuum. We have found 4-5 pumps will eventually get us enough pressure to hold a person’s weight standing on a pry bar. -Bleeding with the Motive acts in a way I don’t expect. Pumping to 15-20 PSI and opening a bleeder pushes out some fluid but reaches a steady state after 5-10 seconds where no more fluid comes out and the pressure does not drop. I have no idea what to make of this. -Other confusing thing – with the pressure bleeder on and pressurized, the brakes work with a single pump. I have yet to wrap my head around this. -We did get some unidentifiable black chunks out of the lines with a recent pressure bleed. This truck has lived a very hard life and maybe that crap has been in there all along? Thoughts / next steps?: -Are there any individual component tests that I can and should be doing? -I really don’t want to do this, but is there any value in blowing out / brake cleaning out the hard lines? -After al this, is this as simple as there’s still air in the system? If so, how the hell do I get it out of there? -Does anyone want to buy a Scout? I know where to find one. Thanks folks.
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Mar 7, 2024 01:29
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Are the front calipers on the correct side with the bleeder at the top? Have you tried bleed it the old fashioned way. one person pump and hold, the other open and close the bleeder?
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Mar 7, 2024 01:42
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What about your fluid reservoir cap? If it’s unsealed you’ve got a potential failure point. It’s the only thing that wouldn’t be on when the motive is connected
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Mar 7, 2024 01:52
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BeAuMaN posted:Is this the place to ask about UTVs? If you can go solo and straddle, I always recommend Honda ATVs. My family has kept 7 Honda fourtraxes of various models (mostly 300s, some newer models) going for 30 years at a few farms. A brand new recon is under 5k. Even a brand new heavier duty one like the foreman we have is under 10k. They seem pretty easy to repair from what I've seen my uncles do fixing them up but I haven't done it personally. Otherwise I see tons of Polaris side by sides in use, a used non racing one might work well as a gator replacement. They run under 10k but my understanding is they aren't as dead reliable as the hondas. I'm not really sure how they've taken over that part of the SxS market to the degree they have compared to the other brands out there. trevorreznik fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Mar 7, 2024 |
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Mar 7, 2024 02:00
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Powershift posted:Are the front calipers on the correct side with the bleeder at the top? Calipers are confirmed to be on the correct side. Top of picture is up.  Lots of old fashion dad-and-son-style bleeding before and since acquiring the Motive. No change. Dr. Lunchables posted:What about your fluid reservoir cap? If it’s unsealed you’ve got a potential failure point. It’s the only thing that wouldn’t be on when the motive is connected No change with the cap on or off either style of master. We even tried swapping the caps between the two aftermarket style masters just because one was less scratched up than the other (since we've taken it off a lifetime's worth of times by now).
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Mar 7, 2024 02:01
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