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 Another Flesh Construct down i need to wrap my head around blending I have a hard time with that
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Mar 3, 2024 09:39
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Another Flesh Construct down
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Mar 3, 2024 15:25
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Yeah, I think it's dry tip. My other issue is that I'm trying to glaze a small part of the mini, and I want it to blend in with the tones around it, so I can't tape it off or get too far away or I end up covering more area than I want to. Ideally I want to be able to get pretty close to keep it tight without it pooling, but maybe that's just not possible with it thinned down to a glaze? It's a new thread and I really should do an effort post on airbrushing, but that would take... effort. Your goal when Airbrushing is for the paint to dry the moment it hits the painting surface. You do this by constantly balancing between the viscosity of your paint, the pressure of your air and the distance from the painting surface, when one changes the others have to change as well to compensate. You want to be very thin with very low pressure to get close. The closer you get to your surface, the lower your pressure needs to be to avoid splattering, and the lower your pressure the thinner your paint needs to be to get through the brush, but that also leads to splattering, so you need to experiment to find the right balance. Using thinner (reduces drying time) and flow improver (increases drying time) can help dial it in, but it's going to take experimentation to find the right combination. What I recommend is to get some glossy white index cards and then practice spraying lines on them of different widths;., experiment with differen't pressure settings, different distances from the painting surface and different viscosities of paint until you get a real good feel for where you need to be and then apply that technique to your models. Unfortunately there is no "use X PSI at Y distance with X Paint" settings for this, it's all about learning to use your specific unique brush, paint and application combo.
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Mar 3, 2024 18:41
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I'm really happy with how this guy turned out 
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Mar 3, 2024 23:25
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Golden High Flow acrylics are good. Straight into the airbrush without thinning, no cloging or drying.
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Mar 4, 2024 03:36
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Lostconfused posted:Golden High Flow acrylics are good. Seconded,though I find I get better spray of titanium white if I start with a drop or two of flow improver.
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Mar 4, 2024 03:45
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Lostconfused posted:Golden High Flow acrylics are good. Aren't they super glossy though?
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Mar 4, 2024 06:18
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Used them to do a quick zenithal highlight  Maybe they have a satin finish, but doesn't seem glossy to me.
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Mar 4, 2024 06:51
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That first photo looks pretty glossy to me. But I suppose that's easily fixable with a quick matt varnish. I know some of them are also worse in that regard than others, and there are only a few tones I'd pick up... so something to consider when I get my next paycheck.
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Mar 4, 2024 07:12
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That first photo is bare GW plastic lol.
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Mar 4, 2024 07:22
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LOL, well, that's me told. Yeah, the second photo has a much better finish.
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Mar 4, 2024 07:30
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The Golden High-Flows can be glossy, but it's dependent on the pigment. Some pigments are naturally more opaque and matte than others, like titanium, and will give a more matte appearance. Others are transparent and glossy basically regardless of their density or material properties, so will appear more glossy. That's one of the downsides of artist quality paints. They're great quality, but you can get massively different finishes and transparencies between colors in the same line of paints. All qualities you'd want if you were painting on canvass, but not necessarily when painting minis.
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Mar 4, 2024 07:35
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the_seventh_cohort posted:I'm really happy with how this guy turned out owns, love the red and fleshy pinks against the green.
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Mar 4, 2024 08:07
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Finished another dude for my raven guard infiltrator squad, except this time it's a Raptors' Deathwatch member on secondment or attached to the squad. Or something lore-adjacent. I just really wanted to use the DW shoulder pad, and since it's on the left shoulder he'd be an active deathwatch member, and as such  Anyway,      e: I finally put in an order for microsol/set and I'm not touching a decal again until those arrive. Getting it to say Raptor on the shoulderpad was also a nightmare- a lot of adepta sororitas unit names from their decal sheet were injured in the making of this mini Bohemian Nights fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Mar 4, 2024 |
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Mar 4, 2024 18:06
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Bad painting experiences: I’m doing up my Death Guard KT and despite my best efforts with my Krylon Camouflage Sand (heating a d shaking the hell out of), my results were terrible. I tried to make up for it with a quick spray of grey with a can I thought I had unstuck, but that wasn’t great either. I’m on light drybrush coat 4 of Screaming Skull and while mostly fine, there are still areas where the grey can be seen  
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Mar 4, 2024 23:17
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Professor Shark posted:Bad painting experiences: I’m doing up my Death Guard KT and despite my best efforts with my Krylon Camouflage Sand (heating a d shaking the hell out of), my results were terrible. I tried to make up for it with a quick spray of grey with a can I thought I had unstuck, but that wasn’t great either. A good airbrush setup costs about 15 rattle cans.
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Mar 5, 2024 00:25
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4K paint porn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1AsJgcXvdCQ
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Mar 5, 2024 02:01
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Lumpy posted:A good airbrush setup costs about 15 rattle cans. Counterpoint: Bucnasti posted:It's a new thread and I really should do an effort post on airbrushing, but that would take... effort. My takeaway is that every kind of priming is the worst kind of priming  I actually have used my airbrush a couple of times now for priming batches and it seems to work but I can't tell when I'm done and there's enough primer on the model.
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Mar 5, 2024 02:11
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Counter-counterpoint: I love priming with my airbrush.
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Mar 5, 2024 02:24
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priming with an airbrush is very good, I just love seeing colors change as the paint gets sprayed on. From brown to black, and then highlighting it from grey to white.
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Mar 5, 2024 02:32
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Don't mind me, I whine a lot because I don't enjoy painting, I only do it to cover up the Shameful Grey in the hopes of one day getting my stuff on the table to actually play a game.
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Mar 5, 2024 02:45
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I think you should play the game and not stress about painting. I think painting is fun but trying to get an army painted is too stressful. It's also not satisfying. There's also so much more work to putting an army together besides just painting, that stressing about painting and making painting stressful is very counter productive. Do it at your own pace and don't force yourself.
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Mar 5, 2024 02:47
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I haven't been painting my army because I can't decide on which green to use as the primary color. The eye searing lime green might be too much for the whole army, and maybe I should save it for a character. I also realized that I became disappointed with my original paint scheme because the shade wash darkened it too much, and I need to reapply the base layer color again. Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Mar 5, 2024 |
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Mar 5, 2024 03:18
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Kylaer posted:I actually have used my airbrush a couple of times now for priming batches and it seems to work but I can't tell when I'm done and there's enough primer on the model. The good news is that unlike rattlecan priming, airbrush primer is generally going on thin enough it's hard to overdo it. Obviously you can but try a couple of thin coats. I like doing a zenithel with a light grey over a dark grey so the light grey often catches anywhere I missed that's visible. although I got back to airbrushing after a long break and had to relearn my workflow. Had the paint so thin I was hardly painting anything and then realized my cheap airbrush had that screw at the back of the airbrush that changes how far back you can pull the trigger. By the time i figured that out the paint had been sitting too long and I clogged the stupid thing pretty good. but next time round everything went well. I really should put my cheap airbrush down and start using my iwata at some point. also I really liked this video about OSL from one of the chillest guys in miniature painting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kICVG3b0MGE Dreylad fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Mar 5, 2024 |
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Mar 5, 2024 05:44
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I think I'm going to get an airbrush just because I've battled to find good, consistent spraycans that aren't ludicrously priced GW ones. I got "Spray-mate" black which works really nice and is cheap, but the rustoleum gray I found comes out kinda watery and just loving ugh. Please pre-prime my miniatures thanks GW.
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Mar 5, 2024 08:58
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Oh poo poo. Did I just paint Mike Tyson?! Bohemian Nights posted:Finished another dude for my raven guard infiltrator squad, except this time it's a Raptors' Deathwatch member on secondment or attached to the squad. Or something lore-adjacent. I just really wanted to use the DW shoulder pad, and since it's on the left shoulder he'd be an active deathwatch member, and as such I love him.
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Mar 5, 2024 09:11
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AndyElusive posted:Oh poo poo. Did I just paint Mike Tyson?! Just add he face tattoos and you nailed it.
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Mar 5, 2024 14:37
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Hey thread, hoping for some help. I got a satin finish when I meant to go matte so I’ve got shiny space dwarves. If I just hit them with matte over top will that work? If not, anyone know how to either remove finish without paint or how to get rid of the shine?
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Mar 5, 2024 18:26
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A bit of matte varnish spray will fix it up.
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Mar 5, 2024 18:29
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stoopidmunkey posted:Hey thread, hoping for some help. I got a satin finish when I meant to go matte so I’ve got shiny space dwarves. If I just hit them with matte over top will that work? If not, anyone know how to either remove finish without paint or how to get rid of the shine? painting matte or gloss varnish/medium will give you a good matte or gloss look unless you're intending to go ultramatte or super high shine.
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Mar 5, 2024 19:23
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Lostconfused posted:A bit of matte varnish spray will fix it up. Appreciate it. Thanks!
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Mar 5, 2024 19:36
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Cease to Hope posted:painting matte or gloss varnish/medium will give you a good matte or gloss look unless you're intending to go ultramatte or super high shine. Yeah. I wanted no shine but bought the wrong finish. I’ll just matte over top to kill the shine. My space dwarves without helmets look like teenagers with oily skin
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Mar 5, 2024 19:37
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As I understand, gloss varnish is quite durable, as well, so having a matt coat on top of it gives you the best of both.
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Mar 5, 2024 23:28
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Anyone have any advice on using pigments or how to lock them into bases? Im planning on using some for dust build up on some bases but not quite sure how to do it yet. I am planning to watch some tutorials online later.
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Mar 5, 2024 23:46
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Flipswitch posted:Anyone have any advice on using pigments or how to lock them into bases? Im planning on using some for dust build up on some bases but not quite sure how to do it yet. I am planning to watch some tutorials online later.
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Mar 5, 2024 23:59
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Flipswitch posted:Anyone have any advice on using pigments or how to lock them into bases? Im planning on using some for dust build up on some bases but not quite sure how to do it yet. I am planning to watch some tutorials online later. Anything that locks them down will change the look/texture to a greater or lesser extent. I've not got a huge amount of experience with them, but I have played around on some figures, and honestly I came to the conclusion that I'm best off not locking them in 99% of the time. I apply them with a brush as a final (post varnish) step, then tap the base on the desk to get any excess off, then I just leave it, it sticks well enough. Especially if its just on the base/feet of a model, because how often do you touch the top of the base of a painted model?
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Mar 6, 2024 00:00
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The new thread's making me feel like participating. I need to work on my photography setup to make the lighting less harsh. A Blooper  SCP-999  SCP-001 
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Mar 6, 2024 01:01
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SiKboy posted:Anything that locks them down will change the look/texture to a greater or lesser extent. I've not got a huge amount of experience with them, but I have played around on some figures, and honestly I came to the conclusion that I'm best off not locking them in 99% of the time. I apply them with a brush as a final (post varnish) step, then tap the base on the desk to get any excess off, then I just leave it, it sticks well enough. Especially if its just on the base/feet of a model, because how often do you touch the top of the base of a painted model? I was under the impression that not fixing them was a Bad Idea
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Mar 6, 2024 01:09
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Lock Knight posted:As I understand, gloss varnish is quite durable, as well, so having a matt coat on top of it gives you the best of both. One thing to remember about Matte varnishing is that it'll knock back the shininess of any metallics you've got on there. A common solution tends to be drybrushing a bit of the metallic back over it and then if you're worried about the shine rubbing off you can brush paint some satin or gloss varnish over for protection.
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Mar 6, 2024 01:28
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As I recall, Goobertown found that there's no difference in the level of protection various finishes of glosses give so any sort of varnish is going to protect equally well.
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Mar 6, 2024 01:35
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