|
To be fair some of the drill bits that come with pin vices can be hilariously low quality. Barely any proper cutting angle to the tip of them which makes it drill poorly in more challenging materials like metal or hard resin and promotes walking.
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 15:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 07:16 |
|
|
So I’m painting some models for the first time in like 20 years, other than a squad of Gretchin I painted in 2021 on a lark. I’ve got a box of Blackstone chaos cultists, the Kill Team Starter set (so the Boyz and Veterans), the Elucidian Starstrider Kill team, a box of Serberys Raiders, a squad of Steel Legion pewter guys, and the three metal Regimental Advisers. I’m staring with the Chaos Cultists as warmup and had a lot of fun even though my first guy looks like complete poo poo since I’ve never had even an iota of artistic talent - despite that he’s definitely a lot better than the ones I painted as a kid in the 90s/teen around 2006, who were just blotchy absurd tricolor lumps. I figure they’re a nice medium of detailed sculpts with some forgiving big surfaces between and they’re not an obvious part of any army I could cobble together, though I do have vague plans to include them as non-Chaos adherents of a local religion serving under a Rogue Trader. I’m gonna paint the Ork Boyz next for more practice, then onto the Veterans, Steel Legion, and Kill Team. Anyway back when I learned to paint long ago, for everyone around me there was only base/layer, and washes, shading, technical paints etc just didn’t get used. The Nuln whatever wash has been hugely helpful for me and I’m just curious about how the different categories of paint generally work - I think I have washes and dry brushing mostly internalized but what is a “technical” paint? I have like 20 citadel paint pots but my strategy was just getting high and going to the GW store with no plan, so I didn’t get some stuff I should have and did get some stuff I probably shouldn’t. To compensate I ordered the $84 Speed Paint set on Amazon that seems popular. How are those paints different from regular citadel layers/bases?
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 16:18
|
|
|
Technical paints aren't quite paints but stuff like basing paste, fake blood, etc
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 16:22
|
|
|
Ah, so things like textured paints would fall into that category? I’m also learning to do bases with just gravel, flocking, and model train grass which looks pretty good by my standards but still doesn’t have that real detail serious models have, which I only learned very recently apparently comes from textured paints. Are there any particularly good ones for rough ground? I don’t want all my guys hanging out in grass but using model train gravel doesn’t quite work for an actual floor, just bigger rocks
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 16:49
|
|
|
Ugh, just primed a broadside and the primer is slightly fuzzed and ended up cracking on one part. Really hoping I didn't get another bad can of army painter primer. I'm torn between stripping it or just going with it because I'm modeling it as Wintertide Concordate on Phaedra and leaning into the whole morass of decay aspect of it so the texture might lend itself to the weathered look, but I'm not sure.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 16:57
|
|
|
Nessus posted:Reasonable! The drill set with my little pin drill came with a bunch of loving tiny loose drill bits and this set of ten 'actual bits with chucks for the teeth to bite into.' I was trying to put some holds into the barrels that looked plausible and I lowballed what to do, though I did go pretty deep on a couple. It may at this point be best to accept that the already-primed models are just going to be lacking in this field and try to do it with the unprimed ones, or a future set, but even so... even so... If you're talking about a painting handle the methods vary, GW's is a clamp method to hold the base in. I use an empty advil bottle and blu-tack. Blu-tack is super useful anyways too, it's re-usable and helps with a ton of stuff like covering attachment points on sub-assemblies for priming and painting. Nancy fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Mar 4, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 16:59
|
|
|
Frog Act posted:Ah, so things like textured paints would fall into that category? I’m also learning to do bases with just gravel, flocking, and model train grass which looks pretty good by my standards but still doesn’t have that real detail serious models have, which I only learned very recently apparently comes from textured paints. Are there any particularly good ones for rough ground? I don’t want all my guys hanging out in grass but using model train gravel doesn’t quite work for an actual floor, just bigger rocks YMMV but I still get a lot of use out of sand, gravel and larger stones, with added tufts of grass. I've also used some Vallejo Grey Sand which is quite nice for fine texture, but not essential. GW's Agrellan Earth is fairly good for dry riverbed sort of cracked ground. btw, the painting thread is full of good advice and a good place to ask questions.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 17:13
|
|
|
Gravitas Shortfall posted:YMMV but I still get a lot of use out of sand, gravel and larger stones, with added tufts of grass. I've also used some Vallejo Grey Sand which is quite nice for fine texture, but not essential. GW's Agrellan Earth is fairly good for dry riverbed sort of cracked ground. Dope thanks I’ll go ask in there! I haven’t actually played 40k since 2009 or so and can’t imagine I’ll ever have the opportunity again, so I’ll go ask painting questions in there Out of idle curiosity on the off chance I ever have the chance to do so are there official rules for Rogue Trader armies right now?
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 17:37
|
|
|
Frog Act posted:Ah, so things like textured paints would fall into that category? I’m also learning to do bases with just gravel, flocking, and model train grass which looks pretty good by my standards but still doesn’t have that real detail serious models have, which I only learned very recently apparently comes from textured paints. Are there any particularly good ones for rough ground? I don’t want all my guys hanging out in grass but using model train gravel doesn’t quite work for an actual floor, just bigger rocks I use baking powder (which accelerates superglue) and cat litter. The actual order is to cover a base in super glue, then dip it into cat litter, then dip it into a Tupperware of baking powder. Then, water down astrogranite or the AK Lunar Desert equivalent and spread it over. Makes great rough bases with a lot of texture. Drybrushing with some screaming skull or whatever adds more depth too. Captain Magic fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Mar 4, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 17:44
|
|
|
Frog Act posted:Dope thanks I’ll go ask in there! I haven’t actually played 40k since 2009 or so and can’t imagine I’ll ever have the opportunity again, so I’ll go ask painting questions in there Edit: this is for 9th, not 10th, my mistake Vulpes Vulpes fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Mar 4, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 17:50
|
|
|
In principle I’d say any army could get fluffed as a rogue traders retinue and household squad. Maybe not like Grey Knights or something.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 18:19
|
|
|
Frog Act posted:Out of idle curiosity on the off chance I ever have the chance to do so are there official rules for Rogue Trader armies right now? Yes! Two different ways, actually. A Rogue Trader Entourage, which includes a rogue trader and a group of various weirdos, is an Imperial Agents leader unit that can be attached to a squad of Voidsmen (very generic shipboard marines) or Imperial Navy Breachers (a shipboard marine boarding crew with shotguns, door-cutters, riot shields, etc.). You can run this unit in any Imperial army, or else you can run an entire army of Imperial Agents and have this unit be your warlord. The latter isn't actually good, but it is something you can do. The rules for Imperial Agents are here (along with all of the 40K rules except the codices). The actual Rogue Trader unit is a Kill Team box that also includes the Voidsman (and their dog). The Rogue Trader, her entourage, and the Voidsmen are also playable in Kill Team as the Euclidian Starstriders, and pretty fun overall. Their rules are in the Kill Team Annual 2022, although most KT players just use Wahapedia or KTdash. Vulpes Vulpes posted:Yep- https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/kKj593HK6K628syU.pdf This is for a previous edition. 9th I think? Nessus posted:In principle I’d say any army could get fluffed as a rogue traders retinue and household squad. Maybe not like Grey Knights or something. Canonically, rogue traders are imperial gentry and agents plenipotentiary in their own right, similar to planetary-sector lords or inquisitors. That means they can range from some rear end in a top hat with a writ that works like weak diplomatic immunity and a ship with a warp drive that technically works, all the way up to a fleet commander so powerful that they could be jockeying for a seat among the High Lords of Terra. They could reasonably have any imperial force at all seconded to them, or seconded to any imperial force you want. Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Mar 4, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 18:28
|
|
|
Vulpes Vulpes posted:Yep- https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/kKj593HK6K628syU.pdf Note that this is 9e, and not 10e.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 18:34
|
|
|
Appreciate the answers! I have a vague idea for an army led by a Rogue Trader who leads an isolated dynasty that has become a bit inclusive and esoteric over the course of the last millennia where the system was inaccessible, thus justifying some Ork mercenaries and maybe another Xeno or two as well as the not-Chaos cultists who I think of as a tribe of guys from the highlands with an animist type religion that is semiotically similar to Chaos but isn’t since I don’t have the skills to buff out the symbols and replace them with something new. Seems like that’d require some squishing to make work as an actual army - probably need a bunch of guard and some marines or whatever - but just in terms of assembling a thematically consistent, plausible thing, is doable. I really like a lot of Necromunda models too, was thinking the Enforcers would be a good alternative to Arbites since the latter is zealously devoted to interpreting imperial law and a PDF-style police force would make more sense for a quasi-independent entity only barely affiliated with the imperium
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 19:02
|
|
|
Frog Act posted:Anyway back when I learned to paint long ago, for everyone around me there was only base/layer, and washes, shading, technical paints etc just didn’t get used. The Nuln whatever wash has been hugely helpful for me and I’m just curious about how the different categories of paint generally work - I think I have washes and dry brushing mostly internalized but what is a “technical” paint? I have like 20 citadel paint pots but my strategy was just getting high and going to the GW store with no plan, so I didn’t get some stuff I should have and did get some stuff I probably shouldn’t. To compensate I ordered the $84 Speed Paint set on Amazon that seems popular. How are those paints different from regular citadel layers/bases? Vince has you covered: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoPsAC5Erro https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmMqEWkOqWY And in case you have contrast paints here's a video for that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jla40wPw7_U I'm not sure what the $84 set is brand wise, but speed paints generally are formulated in a different manner from traditional acrylics. They're typically less opaque & flow better across the surface. Applying the paint is usually done in an even manner as well due to the transparency; imagine your painting the interior of a square on some white paper for example, your brush would hit the white areas only once in a controlled manner (instead of going over the top of your work multiple times). Frog Act posted:Ah, so things like textured paints would fall into that category? I’m also learning to do bases with just gravel, flocking, and model train grass which looks pretty good by my standards but still doesn’t have that real detail serious models have, which I only learned very recently apparently comes from textured paints. Are there any particularly good ones for rough ground? I don’t want all my guys hanging out in grass but using model train gravel doesn’t quite work for an actual floor, just bigger rocks Texture paints are pretty fun, and yeah there's lots of rough ground options. GW, Vallejo, AK Interactive, and Pro Acryl have dedicated texture paints with comparison photos so you should be able to pick out the effect you like. Shout out to Winsor & Newton Galeria black lava texture gel for being awesome as well. Here's a page doing shine comparisons, but it also lists options by terrain type Here's a Vallejo comparison page GW comparison Pro Acryl examples AK Interactive The last two are more direct links to the whole line, but you can click a type and see examples For extra material, like gravels and such, I went and bought sands in various levels of fineness at Michael's for cheap and threw them in some glass containers with screw tops. Here's another video though that every person basing should watch, even if only for the wet water/glue recipe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRFfsAG-Yf8 Edit: Remember you can also combine texture paints for new effects, and use multiple texture paints next to each other. Hell you can use them on models directly if you'd like. Spot applied cracks on armor for example. For PVA I use Lineco PVA. It's Archival quality, has neutral pH (acid free), and comes in quarts on Amazon for cheap. Get yourself some 70% isopropyl from a store for $3 as well for the wet water recipe. I put both these into dropper bottles I bought off Aliexpress for $3 (for like 20x bottles) The Demilich fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Mar 4, 2024 |
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 19:07
|
|
|
Who was it here that had a counts-as-Custodes Rogue Trader army of crazy kitbashes? That was pretty fun.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 19:24
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:Vince has you covered: This is hugely helpful, thanks buddy! I actually do have a couple contrast paints and, lol, I tried using one the way I might use a layer and it came out looking…not even bad or wrong exactly, the color is substantial, just different than I expected, more translucent, so I’ll definitely need to watch that and learn how to distinguish it from the shading stuff like Nuln or that stuff I got for Orks. As for the speed paints it sounds like those are gonna be very useful for someone at my skill level (the absolute floor) before I start really learning about layers and shading. The one in question is this: https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter...9d01dec5a0ca926 Which seems to be explicitly marketed for Warhammer models and has excellent reviews
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 19:29
|
|
|
Some things that slightly differ with the Speedpaints is they dry a bit faster than the Contrast paints. And in particular this means over certain primers it can actually dry/shrink so fast that it starts to crack. So worth testing some on your intended brand of primer to make sure it's going to behave properly.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 19:39
|
|
|
Al-Saqr posted:I just got laid off. time to finish my space marine army! Sorry to hear that. Good luck to you finding something good as a replacement, soon as possible.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 20:37
|
|
|
darnon posted:Some things that slightly differ with the Speedpaints is they dry a bit faster than the Contrast paints. And in particular this means over certain primers it can actually dry/shrink so fast that it starts to crack. So worth testing some on your intended brand of primer to make sure it's going to behave properly. Oh thanks that sounds very important; I’m using generic Vallejo matte black primer so I’ll test that before going hog wild
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 20:45
|
|
|
Yeah for speed paints you want to use white or something like Vallejo grey primer which ends up being a very light colored grey.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 20:50
|
|
|
Frog Act posted:Appreciate the answers! I have a vague idea for an army led by a Rogue Trader who leads an isolated dynasty that has become a bit inclusive and esoteric over the course of the last millennia where the system was inaccessible, thus justifying some Ork mercenaries and maybe another Xeno or two as well as the not-Chaos cultists who I think of as a tribe of guys from the highlands with an animist type religion that is semiotically similar to Chaos but isn’t since I don’t have the skills to buff out the symbols and replace them with something new. Seems like that’d require some squishing to make work as an actual army - probably need a bunch of guard and some marines or whatever - but just in terms of assembling a thematically consistent, plausible thing, is doable. Imperial Agents are pretty open-ended designs and can include a bunch of weirdos. They could have the occasional xeno member, or be used as a bunch of not-quite-heretical cultists. That said, 40K 10e is not really accommodating of real mix-and-match play from different lists besides Imperial Agents (or Knights or, to a much, much lesser extent, Chaos Demons), even if they're armies that seem like natural allies. It's probably fine for very casual play among friends or a house-ruled Crusade campaign, but mixing and matching will run into rules issues pretty fast, and strangers might call foul when playing pickup games.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 20:57
|
|
|
put cypher in there.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 21:10
|
|
|
Captain Magic posted:I use baking powder (which accelerates superglue) and cat litter. The actual order is to cover a base in super glue, then dip it into cat litter, then dip it into a Tupperware of baking powder. Then, water down astrogranite or the AK Lunar Desert equivalent and spread it over. Makes great rough bases with a lot of texture. Drybrushing with some screaming skull or whatever adds more depth too. I was just wondering last night if litter would work- I may try this!
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2024 22:02
|
|
|
Frog Act posted:Oh thanks that sounds very important; I’m using generic Vallejo matte black primer so I’ll test that before going hog wild I'm a whore for efficiency so take my advice with that in mind. Black primer is more than fine, but given the transparent nature of speed paints here's two things to think about : 1. The paint itself, due to its transparency, will be affected by the tonal value underneath it. 2. Certain paints/pigments are very difficult to build up from black. One of the best examples is yellow. Hell some reds are difficult. Because of this I think you'll want to focus on doing some monochromatic underpainting (in this case known as grisaille) before applying your speedpaint colors. If you're unaware of the term "zenithal highlighting", this will make your life easier: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCh5bJa6vC8 I bring it up specifically because it's perfect for speedpaints. So in your instance, assuming you don't have an airbrush, I would prime the model black like normal, then drybrush the majority of your model with a mid grey. Lastly, drybrush the areas that will have the most light grey or white. I also tend to recommend drybrushing your light color on all the pronounced edges and details of the model all over in general because the contrast really pops. You can then spot apply your nuln oil (or anything else that's darker) in the grey and white recesses to maximize your contrast. Afterwards plop your colors on and watch as all those tonal differences you painted beforehand show through. You can even do a second round of white drybrushing afterwards and another round of speedpainting if you want. It's all art, and art is about experimentation. There's more things you can mess with, such as color temperature choices, priming in different colors and whatnot, and other things, but the above should be more than sufficient to give you an excellent paint job with tons of depth.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 00:59
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:Because of this I think you'll want to focus on doing some monochromatic underpainting (in this case known as grisaille) before applying your speedpaint colors. Ah that's the term I was looking for I think, google search just kept returning miniature modeling nerds trying to hack their own new term for this.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 01:05
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:I'm a whore for efficiency so take my advice with that in mind. Much appreciated! This is really helpful. I would have never have considered white drybrushing onto a black primed model, I usually just go prime -> Abbadon Black -> layers and it definitely makes things feel kind of flat, thus drawing attention to my very sloppy and amateurish freehand parts and places where I’ve wiped out detail is drybrushing with paints that aren’t explicitly labeled as such workable? I have a broad brush I used for drybrushing but also only have one brownish citadel paint intended for that, everything else is layer/base. I ask because in my stoned thoughtlessness I didn’t get a proper white of any kind, but I do have several khakis and bone and stuff. Gonna have to do a real inventory and return to HobbyTown soon I reckon Cease to Hope posted:Imperial Agents are pretty open-ended designs and can include a bunch of weirdos. They could have the occasional xeno member, or be used as a bunch of not-quite-heretical cultists. Cool, thanks - I haven’t actually played since 2009 or so and that was always with friends who didn’t care much, so things were permissive. It sounds like the rules are a little tighter now so I’ll probably just slowly accumulate an Imperial Guard army. It’s a shame Cadians seem to be the only option now, though I did lol that the Catachans are the same ones I had 20 years ago Lostconfused posted:Yeah for speed paints you want to use white or something like Vallejo grey primer which ends up being a very light colored grey. Seems like a consensus, definitely gonna pick up some white primer. I had one last time I painted and did one guy with it and he looks good, in hindsight, but I lost it somewhere around the house. Between that and drybrushing I might be able to find a good way to make things pop Also, I just tried to put together a Serberys raider and holy poo poo these legs are loving fiddly. I am totally uncoordinated and incapable of precision movements, but did okay with the Blackstone Fortress guys who in hindsight were not a good prep for the raiders. The legs are kind of messy and horrible because I couldn’t get them to fit right and had to pull him apart a few times. I don’t remember models with 95 pieces in the Ork sets I got with the starter box in 1998 or whatever or even the later models in the 2000s so this has all come as a shock
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 02:13
|
|
|
Frog Act posted:
I use Vallejo but I'm pretty sure you can drybrush with anything that's not a shade/wash, contrast, or technical. Some paints are just thicker or thinner
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 03:47
|
|
|
Thank you to the people that had suggestions for my techmarine kitbash. I ended up trying to make a skirt out of tissue, PVA and water to completely hide the lower half and I think it came out okay, even if he does have a bad case of Hank Hill rear end when viewed from the side.     
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 04:27
|
|
|
Lostconfused posted:Ah that's the term I was looking for I think, google search just kept returning miniature modeling nerds trying to hack their own new term for this. Yeah, everyone tried using dumbshit terms like slapchop and whatever else. I find it annoying considering there are actual historical art terms for the various painting techniques we employ on our tiny sculptures. Aside from grisaille (grey focused) you also have brunaille (brown focused), verdaille (green focused), bleuaille (for blue), and well, I'm sure you see the aille pattern. Surprisingly I've never discovered a parent term that encompass the -aille formats other than monochromatic though. Ebauche exists in history but I personally don't care for it or its connotations. Frog Act posted:is drybrushing with paints that aren’t explicitly labeled as such workable? I have a broad brush I used for drybrushing but also only have one brownish citadel paint intended for that, everything else is layer/base. I ask because in my stoned thoughtlessness I didn’t get a proper white of any kind, but I do have several khakis and bone and stuff. Gonna have to do a real inventory and return to HobbyTown soon I reckon People do entire armies with only drybrushing. As soon as your primer is on and fully cured you can drybrush mostly anything on it. All that matters is you have a good brush with the proper amount of paint in it. You don't even need to pick up a specific white primer; for example, I always use Liquitex titanium white ink to pull out details on my black primed models and I've never run into issues with it. A lot of people love Vallejo Pale Sand for drybrushing highlights (I still need to pick up a bottle myself as I do want to try it). Hell you could do both if you start with Pale Sand and then finish the brightest parts with titanium white. Here's an example of grisaille I did in 2021, it's just black stynylrez primer and that titanium white ink I mentioned:  Took literally no time at all. You can even do multiple colors if you're comfortable; here's a zenithal example I did in 2020 who I should really finish:  My next steps would be drybrushing my edges & pin washing some recesses, then I'd give the model a second pass with my transparent base colors where needed to help blend those changes. Lastly I'll pick out some details with a brush. Frog Act posted:Also, I just tried to put together a Serberys raider and holy poo poo these legs are loving fiddly. I am totally uncoordinated and incapable of precision movements, but did okay with the Blackstone Fortress guys who in hindsight were not a good prep for the raiders. The legs are kind of messy and horrible because I couldn’t get them to fit right and had to pull him apart a few times. I don’t remember models with 95 pieces in the Ork sets I got with the starter box in 1998 or whatever or even the later models in the 2000s so this has all come as a shock Admech are notoriously spindly, as are some necrons. I've got a semi decent amount of the former and a squads worth of the latter and they can be rough to work with. I've heard the Serberys kit is even more fragile than the Admech Sicarians I have and that says a lot. Since you want to experiment with the various speedpaint colors for drybrushing, I suggest picking up a super cheap used squad of something classic like some old Ork Boyz or old marines (the ones holding their guns to their chest are great). Ebay or, if you're lucky and your local game store has a commission/used sales section, you can get them ultra cheap. Strip them of paint (or prime right over them if they're not all clogged from a bad paint job) and then after priming again you can test drybrush whatever speedpaint you like. That way you don't have to gently caress around and find out on your new models.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 04:37
|
|
|
Nothing But Hate posted:Thank you to the people that had suggestions for my techmarine kitbash. I ended up trying to make a skirt out of tissue, PVA and water to completely hide the lower half and I think it came out okay, even if he does have a bad case of Hank Hill rear end when viewed from the side. Did you soak the tissue in PVA? Cause Ive heard of people making custom banners that way and using it for a draped robe sounds like a great idea. I realized I have two centurion torsos who need legs and instead of blowing money on bits I'm thinking of putting them in robes as well.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 04:45
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:Did you soak the tissue in PVA? Cause Ive heard of people making custom banners that way and using it for a draped robe sounds like a great idea. I realized I have two centurion torsos who need legs and instead of blowing money on bits I'm thinking of putting them in robes as well. Yea basically, I just used a brush to mix some PVA and water then brushed it all over the tissue. I’ve heard make up wipes or baby wipes are better as they’re harder to rip once wet but all I had was paper towels and it seemed to hold up alright
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 04:55
|
|
|
Frog Act posted:Appreciate the answers! I have a vague idea for an army led by a Rogue Trader who leads an isolated dynasty that has become a bit inclusive and esoteric over the course of the last millennia where the system was inaccessible, thus justifying some Ork mercenaries and maybe another Xeno or two as well as the not-Chaos cultists who I think of as a tribe of guys from the highlands with an animist type religion that is semiotically similar to Chaos but isn’t since I don’t have the skills to buff out the symbols and replace them with something new. Seems like that’d require some squishing to make work as an actual army - probably need a bunch of guard and some marines or whatever - but just in terms of assembling a thematically consistent, plausible thing, is doable. Aside from the suggestion’s everyone else has provided, the next issue of White Dwarf will have Combat Patrol rules for a combined force of the Starstriders and Imperial Navy Breachers.Of course this does also mean that you can only play against other Combat Patrols (it’s a game mode which uses pre-built forces) but it’s also a good starting point if you’re getting back into the game. Then you can bring your other ideas into your larger 40K force.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 05:13
|
|
|
For basing, anyone have experience incorporating fabric, or something that isn't actually fabric but reads like it? I have a few Sisters I need to do something with and I thought basing them so they look like they're fighting a ruined cathedral might be neat, and I'd like to include a tattered ornate rug in there to add some color and general visual flair. Using real fabric (like from an old shirt) seemed like the obvious choice, but then I started thinking about potential complications like the fabric being too thick and throwing off the scale or the glue/adhesive soaking through and ruining the look.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 06:23
|
|
|
Personally I'm all for the name change. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jirRy0h26GA
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 07:16
|
|
|
Frog Act posted:is drybrushing with paints that aren’t explicitly labeled as such workable? I wouldn't use Citadel Dry paints at all tbh. regular paint is fine.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 09:07
|
|
|
citadel dry is a weird useless gimmick imo
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 11:28
|
|
|
Necron Compound looks really good.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 11:30
|
|
|
Athas posted:Necron Compound looks really good. if you want to spend citadel prices on metallic paints, look at vallejo metal color. it's a line made with aluminum flakes rather than the usual mica, so the particles are much finer and thus look less like sparky confetti and more like metal. (it's like long-time scale modeler favorite alclad II, but without the pain of lacquer paints.) aluminium 77.701 is incredible and all you really need, but they have a half-dozen variations on it that are basically that plus a bit of an ink to adjust the hue.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 11:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 07:16 |
|
|
Cease to Hope posted:citadel dry is a weird useless gimmick imo It's not if you have a lot of poo poo to drybrush. Made painting the ITD terrain a lot easier since the paint texture is far more consistent than having to dry down regular paint. But the optimal use case is rather narrow. If you're painting a lot of necrons you could do worse than getting necron compound. If you need to do just some small bits of metal VMA steel is probably better.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2024 13:31
|
|
