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Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

Sylvaneth Bark has found its use in my painting from time to time.

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Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Cease to Hope posted:

if you want to spend citadel prices on metallic paints, look at vallejo metal color. it's a line made with aluminum flakes rather than the usual mica, so the particles are much finer and thus look less like sparky confetti and more like metal. (it's like long-time scale modeler favorite alclad II, but without the pain of lacquer paints.) aluminium 77.701 is incredible and all you really need, but they have a half-dozen variations on it that are basically that plus a bit of an ink to adjust the hue.

I tell you what though, Citadel Liberator Gold is a fantastic paint. Really shiny, really smooth, probably the best Citadel metallic I've ever used.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Gravitas Shortfall posted:

I tell you what though, Citadel Liberator Gold is a fantastic paint. Really shiny, really smooth, probably the best Citadel metallic I've ever used.

Retributor is pretty damned good as well.

The VMA silvers are all amazing but I've been less than impressed with their golds - very poor coverage. Its almost better to just use VMA Steel and overlay that with a yellow Contrast to get a nice gold.

rantmo
Jul 30, 2003

A smile better suits a hero



I've tried the Contrast yellow over VMA Silver for gold and it looked terrible. I've seen evidence of people getting good results but when I tried it, it looked yellow and not the least bit gold.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


rantmo posted:

I've tried the Contrast yellow over VMA Silver for gold and it looked terrible. I've seen evidence of people getting good results but when I tried it, it looked yellow and not the least bit gold.

You'd want a sepia tone for gold, either a wash or contrast mixed with medium to get a glaze. Straight Skeleton Horde over silver might do it, but it still might be a bit brown.

I tend to use Snakebite Leather contrast as a base coat for gold.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe
Snakebite leather gets you a very nice gold, especially if you layer over with purple or red/purple wash (eg Reikland).

I've had people suggesting Nazdreg as well but I didn't like the final shade.

Do not use Iyanden or Imperial Fist, those will just give you yellow.

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



Goonhammer is a great resource. Dang. Was there drama there or just “got big enough to go semi pro”

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

A couple of years back the Warhammer thread was not in a great shape when it came to posting content.
So not so much drama as some of the regular posters just left and founded goonhammer, and they've kept on trucking from there.

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



Cooked Auto posted:

A couple of years back the Warhammer thread was not in a great shape when it came to posting content.
So not so much drama as some of the regular posters just left and founded goonhammer, and they've kept on trucking from there.
The Dark Age of Posting

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

Not wrong to be honest.

Crab Dad
Dec 28, 2002

behold i have tempered and refined thee, but not as silver; as CRAB


That poo poo was hilarious for a while.

Frog Act
Feb 10, 2012



The Demilich posted:

Yeah, everyone tried using dumbshit terms like slapchop and whatever else. I find it annoying considering there are actual historical art terms for the various painting techniques we employ on our tiny sculptures.

Aside from grisaille (grey focused) you also have brunaille (brown focused), verdaille (green focused), bleuaille (for blue), and well, I'm sure you see the aille pattern. Surprisingly I've never discovered a parent term that encompass the -aille formats other than monochromatic though. Ebauche exists in history but I personally don't care for it or its connotations.

People do entire armies with only drybrushing. As soon as your primer is on and fully cured you can drybrush mostly anything on it. All that matters is you have a good brush with the proper amount of paint in it.

You don't even need to pick up a specific white primer; for example, I always use Liquitex titanium white ink to pull out details on my black primed models and I've never run into issues with it. A lot of people love Vallejo Pale Sand for drybrushing highlights (I still need to pick up a bottle myself as I do want to try it). Hell you could do both if you start with Pale Sand and then finish the brightest parts with titanium white.

Here's an example of grisaille I did in 2021, it's just black stynylrez primer and that titanium white ink I mentioned:

Took literally no time at all.

You can even do multiple colors if you're comfortable; here's a zenithal example I did in 2020 who I should really finish:

My next steps would be drybrushing my edges & pin washing some recesses, then I'd give the model a second pass with my transparent base colors where needed to help blend those changes. Lastly I'll pick out some details with a brush.

Admech are notoriously spindly, as are some necrons. I've got a semi decent amount of the former and a squads worth of the latter and they can be rough to work with. I've heard the Serberys kit is even more fragile than the Admech Sicarians I have and that says a lot.

Since you want to experiment with the various speedpaint colors for drybrushing, I suggest picking up a super cheap used squad of something classic like some old Ork Boyz or old marines (the ones holding their guns to their chest are great). Ebay or, if you're lucky and your local game store has a commission/used sales section, you can get them ultra cheap.

Strip them of paint (or prime right over them if they're not all clogged from a bad paint job) and then after priming again you can test drybrush whatever speedpaint you like. That way you don't have to gently caress around and find out on your new models.

Neat thanks, you’ve been super helpful! I think snapping up some old Space Marines cheap would be a good warmup. Those are also the first models I ever painted, the ones that came with the starter set in the late 90s, so that’ll be a fun nostalgia trip

As for drybrushing with non-dry brush paint, how do people dry it? With citadel paints I’ve been told to use a very small amount of water mixed in to thin them ever so slightly and I can’t tell if it’s helping really, but im unsure what the inverse of that would be

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


I mean part of that was that Games Workshop was being run into the ground by incompetent management at the time so it turned into a hate thread, and those always end up eating themselves

StashAugustine
Mar 24, 2013

Do not trust in hope- it will betray you! Only faith and hatred sustain.

Frog Act posted:

Neat thanks, you’ve been super helpful! I think snapping up some old Space Marines cheap would be a good warmup. Those are also the first models I ever painted, the ones that came with the starter set in the late 90s, so that’ll be a fun nostalgia trip

As for drybrushing with non-dry brush paint, how do people dry it? With citadel paints I’ve been told to use a very small amount of water mixed in to thin them ever so slightly and I can’t tell if it’s helping really, but im unsure what the inverse of that would be

I just dip the end of the brush in paint and then flick it back and forth onto paper or whatever until it's got the amount left I like. Sometimes you'll basically want to get the whole surface except for some recesses (this is what I use to paint horses for example), sometimes you just want a little bit of color on the edges so you want to get rid of most of it

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



Gravitas Shortfall posted:

I mean part of that was that Games Workshop was being run into the ground by incompetent management at the time so it turned into a hate thread, and those always end up eating themselves
Why did they seem to go from “awful” to “fasc vacate, also we have decent video games now” anyway? I assume management changes of some kind

smug jeebus
Oct 26, 2008

Nessus posted:

management changes of some kind

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Warhammer video games were always decent, they have way more mediocre licensed ones now though.

ro5s
Dec 27, 2012

A happy little mouse!

Nessus posted:

Why did they seem to go from “awful” to “fasc vacate, also we have decent video games now” anyway? I assume management changes of some kind

Pretty much, the manager at the time was running everything into the ground - declaring they're a minis company not games so the rules are irrelevant, neglecting warhammer fantasy until sigmaring it with a whole bunch of insulting joke rules. 7th edition 40k was awful enough that it was hemorrhaging players, I nearly quit playing completely about that time shifting mostly to xwing.

I think there are the remains of an age of sigmaring started under him visible in post 8th edition 40k that was walked heavily back when the management changed- IMO that was the origin of the primaris and it's the reason Yinarri have been dropped so hard since they came out - it feels like there was a plan to combine all eldar that's been abandoned.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

ro5s posted:

it feels like there was a plan to combine all eldar that's been abandoned.
That's a shame, I remember the Eldar codex in 3rd edition teasing that Ulthwe psykers saw their god coming back as their one shot against chaos.

Frog Act
Feb 10, 2012



Trying to buy a grey primer as per this post's helpful advice

Lostconfused posted:

Yeah for speed paints you want to use white or something like Vallejo grey primer which ends up being a very light colored grey.

And can't seem to quite find the right one on Amazon. There's this spray one:
https://www.amazon.com/Fantasy-Colo...07MBW8BZ5&psc=1

But it has bad reviews

I'd be willing to overpay for this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter...aps%2C75&sr=8-2

But the reviews all say that the cap is impossible to get off and I am so uncoordinated I feel certain I'd break it off.

How does this look?
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-TAM87...aps%2C75&sr=8-4

I suppose I could get the Citadel one but fuckin $25 for a can of spray paint worth half that is almost too much for me.

Also, for textured paints, I'm grabbing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP2N8WR/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A2L5UM4TTY8A8E&th=1
and I assume it needs a binder
https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-VJ26...spa_dk_detail_1

While I'm shopping, anyone have any good suggestions for other things to add? I also grabbed that 77 tufts of grass someone kindly linked upthread

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



ro5s posted:

Pretty much, the manager at the time was running everything into the ground - declaring they're a minis company not games so the rules are irrelevant, neglecting warhammer fantasy until sigmaring it with a whole bunch of insulting joke rules. 7th edition 40k was awful enough that it was hemorrhaging players, I nearly quit playing completely about that time shifting mostly to xwing.

I think there are the remains of an age of sigmaring started under him visible in post 8th edition 40k that was walked heavily back when the management changed- IMO that was the origin of the primaris and it's the reason Yinarri have been dropped so hard since they came out - it feels like there was a plan to combine all eldar that's been abandoned.
I assume the old manager was given the emperor’s mercy and thrown in the pewter vats. Nah he probably cashed out

Maneck
Sep 11, 2011

Nessus posted:

Goonhammer is a great resource. Dang. Was there drama there or just “got big enough to go semi pro”

Cooked Auto posted:

A couple of years back the Warhammer thread was not in a great shape when it came to posting content.
So not so much drama as some of the regular posters just left and founded goonhammer, and they've kept on trucking from there.

This is right on both points. Drama isn't the word. The Goonhammer guys generate absolutely excellent content, in volume, and really do a lot for the community too. Flat out, they're the high end of the hobby. They used to post a lot of that here.

They don't anymore, and yet Cooked Auto is right, the thread is much better these days. It boils down to a small number of the Goonhammer folks not appreciating that this thread is open to anyone who coughs up $5. They wanted certain posters gone. So they would try to drive those people out of the thread. That meant the thread would get excellent content, and then three pages of viciousness over something utterly inane. The word "Orktober" became utterly toxic.

There was a pile of drama around the same time they departed, but that arose from the anti-fascist thread.

Frog Act
Feb 10, 2012



I'm glad people aren't judging my ignorance and subpar modeling skills itt, tbh

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

Frog Act posted:

Trying to buy a grey primer

You can also get hardware store primer like rustoleum. And remember for speed/contrast paints you want a lighter shade of grey.

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

Frog Act posted:

I'm glad people aren't judging my ignorance and subpar modeling skills itt, tbh

I am giving your avatar a quizzical side-eye though, I have no idea what's going on there.

Frog Act
Feb 10, 2012



Lostconfused posted:

You can also get hardware store primer like rustoleum. And remember for speed/contrast paints you want a lighter shade of grey.

Oh word I figured those wouldn't be good enough for whatever reason. They're so cheap I'm just gonna grab two shades of Rustoleum gray and see which works, maybe a Tamiya. Thanks!

bird food bathtub posted:

I am giving your avatar a quizzical side-eye though, I have no idea what's going on there.

homie is enjoying some delightful chocolate, but I've never been able to figure out the brand and it looks delicious

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



Get the flat primer. I had great results from krylon 2x flat black.

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

You can find "generic" versions of almost every hobby product that's cheaper, you only need to know what to look for.

The one advantage of the higher price of hobby stuff is that it should be more consistent than the effort of mixing up a batch of something yourself.

Maneck
Sep 11, 2011

Frog Act posted:

Oh word I figured those wouldn't be good enough for whatever reason. They're so cheap I'm just gonna grab two shades of Rustoleum gray and see which works, maybe a Tamiya. Thanks!

That's a great way to start. For my money, a decent hardware store primer is a better bet than most specialist hobby rattle cans. The Army Painter has a ton of colours in their specialist line, but they've also had some serious quality control problems.

In all cases, always test on something before you spray your models. Bad cans are a thing.

Frog Act
Feb 10, 2012



Dope, I just got a Krylon Flat Grey and a Rustoleum flat grey, 184 tufts of grass, a pack of starter texture paints, and a binder for said texture paints. Very excited to see how this stuff works, the tufts in particular I think will be very helpful for bases since my attempts to make tufts with tweezers and superglue have mostly resulted in microscopic pieces of fake grass permanently adhered to my hands

Maneck posted:

That's a great way to start. For my money, a decent hardware store primer is a better bet than most specialist hobby rattle cans. The Army Painter has a ton of colours in their specialist line, but they've also had some serious quality control problems.

In all cases, always test on something before you spray your models. Bad cans are a thing.

Good advice for sure, I accidentally used my old primer can without testing it and it just spat out a bunch of big gobs of black paint onto my Blackstone Cultist leader. He looks okay now but it was a frustrating moment. The Army Painter stuff definitely looks very appealing despite being nearly the same gouge as citadel, but there are so many reviews from people befuddled by the cap design who accidentally broke the nozzle opening it with a screwdriver I think it would be best if I avoided them

Lostconfused
Oct 1, 2008

For terrain and stuff like that people use PVA glue mixed with some water or something similar.

smug jeebus
Oct 26, 2008

Maneck posted:

That's a great way to start. For my money, a decent hardware store primer is a better bet than most specialist hobby rattle cans. The Army Painter has a ton of colours in their specialist line, but they've also had some serious quality control problems.

Tell me about it, even their laser stopped working for me.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Tamiya fine surface primer is nice stuff though.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Gravitas Shortfall posted:

I tell you what though, Citadel Liberator Gold is a fantastic paint. Really shiny, really smooth, probably the best Citadel metallic I've ever used.

I like Retributor Armor but Liberator Gold is such a weirdly specific color, with so much red and so much white. I dunno what you'd even use it for.

Z the IVth posted:

The VMA silvers are all amazing but I've been less than impressed with their golds - very poor coverage. Its almost better to just use VMA Steel and overlay that with a yellow Contrast to get a nice gold.

Vallejo Model Color Bronze is an outstanding and AFAICT unique greenish gold. Agreed that the silvers are much nicer than the others, although I haven't filtered any of them with contrast paints.

I should emphasize, though, that Vallejo Metal Color is separate from Vallejo Model Color/Air, Vallejo Mecha, and Vallejo Game Color. Metal Color is an aluminum-flake paint that's already a step above everyone else using mica flakes, but it's pricy and mostly comes in variations of silver/steel.

Nessus
Dec 22, 2003

After a Speaker vote, you may be entitled to a valuable coupon or voucher!



Oh my god that color is perfect for something I wanted to do. Argh!!!

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Cease to Hope posted:

I like Retributor Armor but Liberator Gold is such a weirdly specific color, with so much red and so much white. I dunno what you'd even use it for.
I'm not sure what you mean, to me it just looks like a nice light-ish gold.

This photo does a bad job of showing how shiny it is irl.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

I would use my Liberator gold more, but it has gone lumpy in a way that no stirring seems to fix. Which is annoying. Pretty sure that's the case with my Retributor Armor as well, so I've been using VMC Old Gold a bunch instead.

Pretty sure I got it way back on a thread recommendation.

Crab Dad
Dec 28, 2002

behold i have tempered and refined thee, but not as silver; as CRAB


Maneck posted:

This is right on both points. Drama isn't the word. The Goonhammer guys generate absolutely excellent content, in volume, and really do a lot for the community too. Flat out, they're the high end of the hobby. They used to post a lot of that here.

They don't anymore, and yet Cooked Auto is right, the thread is much better these days. It boils down to a small number of the Goonhammer folks not appreciating that this thread is open to anyone who coughs up $5. They wanted certain posters gone. So they would try to drive those people out of the thread. That meant the thread would get excellent content, and then three pages of viciousness over something utterly inane. The word "Orktober" became utterly toxic.

There was a pile of drama around the same time they departed, but that arose from the anti-fascist thread.

It is always Orktober in my heart of hearts.

Sharkopath
May 27, 2009

Lostconfused posted:

That's a shame, I remember the Eldar codex in 3rd edition teasing that Ulthwe psykers saw their god coming back as their one shot against chaos.

I mentioned it in the book thread but instead of a new faction with new characters that half sidelined the craftworlds, it would be cool if GW got one of the skeletons out of their closet and freed Isha from nurgle to manifest as a big centerpiece model.

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Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

There was a bevy of jokes in the meme circles of Warhammer recently about Russ freeing Isha from the Gardens of Nurgle.
No idea where that stemmed from though.

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