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Main reason for clear coats I do gloss then matte over top is that for gaming minis you can see when the matte is wearing off and you can reapply before the paint starts to wear.
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Mar 6, 2024 01:37
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rantmo posted:As I recall, Goobertown found that there's no difference in the level of protection various finishes of glosses give so any sort of varnish is going to protect equally well. Yeah, I think the main difference he found with his Funyun Test was that it's better to spray the varnish than to brush it on.
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Mar 6, 2024 01:46
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What do you guys prefer as the method to paint gemstones? On YouTube it seems like most people use highlighting and layers to make the light gradient but I was told contrast paint over a metallic base can work and I also know GW makes technical paints that are meant to give gem effects.
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Mar 6, 2024 05:39
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it entirely depends on how many gems do you have to paint and how much time do you want to spend. the classic way looks best but if you're painting a squad of five aspect warriors who have 3-4 gems on them each with some being incredibly tiny? You don't even really need a metallic under with some contrast paints to get it gem looking
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Mar 6, 2024 08:46
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Takuan posted:The new thread's making me feel like participating. I need to work on my photography setup to make the lighting less harsh. these are great, did you sculpt them?
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Mar 6, 2024 08:54
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:these are great, did you sculpt them? Nah, the Blooper comes from an artist on thingiverse named Schlossbauer, they have a whole range of 'realistic' Super Mario Bros figures. The SCPs are a part of a set from Printed Obsession on My Mini Factory.
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Mar 6, 2024 13:59
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Lock Knight posted:As I understand, gloss varnish is quite durable, as well, so having a matt coat on top of it gives you the best of both. It's kinda the other way around: durable varnishes tend to be glossy, especially when they're non-hobby products. there are more and more good-to-great durable matte hobby vanishes these days, they just cost more than a cheap gloss coat and a coat of matte medium. if you're buying varnish sold specifically for miniatures (Citadel, AP, Vallejo, GSW, etc.), there's no reason not to get matte, though. Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Mar 6, 2024 |
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Mar 6, 2024 15:57
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Gloss varnish also important if you ever plan to use decals!
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Mar 6, 2024 16:26
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Professor Shark posted:I was under the impression that not fixing them was a Bad Idea Why? I've not found any particular drawback so far (although I'm ready to be corrected).
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Mar 6, 2024 16:59
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SiKboy posted:Why? I've not found any particular drawback so far (although I'm ready to be corrected). unfixed pigment powders are literally dust, so they get brushed or blown or shaken off of dry surfaces
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Mar 6, 2024 17:29
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If you brush them on a matte surface and then vigorously brush and blow on them the remainder will never fall off!
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Mar 6, 2024 17:36
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Cease to Hope posted:unfixed pigment powders are literally dust, so they get brushed or blown or shaken off of dry surfaces If you were hoping for a dust pile, sure, that wouldnt work, but if you want someone to have dusty boots and trousers from walking over their dusty base... Yeah, that shits on there good enough. It'll come off if you run a dry paintbrush over it, or prod it with your greasy finger, but level with me, how often are you doing either of those things to the boots of your painted figures? Edit to add: I'm not fundamentally against fixing pigment powders, I just havent found a method that retains the "dusty" look rather than giving at best a "dried caked on mud" look, which is great if thats what you're going for, but not so good if its a desert theme. So I dont fix them, and I'm happy with the result. SiKboy fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Mar 6, 2024 |
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Mar 6, 2024 17:41
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Also, most painted minis have a matt finish, which means plenty of little micro-crevices for the pigments to get stuck in. I have had pigment powder stain models before, so I really wouldn't be too concerned about it coming off by accident.
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Mar 6, 2024 18:07
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Working on a King for my deepkin and I liked how the octopuss cloak came out
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Mar 6, 2024 19:19
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Working on a King for my deepkin and I liked how the octopuss cloak came out dayum
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Mar 6, 2024 19:22
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Nebalebadingdong posted:dayum
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Mar 6, 2024 19:26
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Anyone have any tips for stopping first-gen AP speedpaints from reactivating? I'd like to repaint a pair of my dudes now that I've settled on my preferred paint scheme for them, and unfortunately most of their body is covered in the original green paint that I was trying out. I've given them a week or so to dry and tried to paint grey or white over it, but I'm getting green bleed-through. Would a coat of gloss varnish help, or am I looking at a bunch of soap and scrubbing everything off before re-priming?
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Mar 6, 2024 19:43
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Yeah a coat of varnish will do what you want. I've had speed paints reactivate the liquitex ink I've used for highlights and blend with it when applied on top, but going over with varnish stops that.
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Mar 6, 2024 20:00
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SiKboy posted:If you were hoping for a dust pile, sure, that wouldnt work, but if you want someone to have dusty boots and trousers from walking over their dusty base... Yeah, that shits on there good enough. It'll come off if you run a dry paintbrush over it, or prod it with your greasy finger, but level with me, how often are you doing either of those things to the boots of your painted figures? I agree with this post but I should also say I really only paint for display. I can count the amount of Kill-Team and 40K I've played in recent memory on one hand so it's not like I ever worry about pigment loss because of my greasy fingers.
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Mar 6, 2024 20:15
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Lostconfused posted:Yeah a coat of varnish will do what you want. I think this is varnish and possibly speed paint color dependent. I varnished minis and they just reactivated when I applied the varnish, ruining whatever smooth effect they had created.
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Mar 7, 2024 06:00
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In this case I should mention that I did apply the varnish with an airbrush, but even then I thought it was a pretty thick layer. It was liquitex gloss varnish if that matters any.
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Mar 7, 2024 06:09
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His power fist is discombobulatingly devastating.   
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Mar 7, 2024 07:45
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AndyElusive posted:His power fist is discombobulatingly devastating. Haha, you went for the tattoo. Glorious!
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Mar 7, 2024 09:39
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AndyElusive posted:His power fist is discombobulatingly devastating. Can you get a pic with an angle showing off the tattoo? That's so sick
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Mar 7, 2024 14:06
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I'm going to claim that I helped with that mini.
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Mar 7, 2024 15:22
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AndyElusive posted:His power fist is discombobulatingly devastating. Can you share how you got that skin? I tried to get something similar for my chaos lord but he just ended up looking Latino at best 
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Mar 7, 2024 15:25
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Lumpy posted:I'm going to claim that I helped with that mini. Mere technical skill is nothing without a muse to inspire. Honestly though, that mini is amazing on every level.
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Mar 7, 2024 15:37
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Does anybody have a link to that world eater on a burning base getting shot with lasers? Thanks to the "pivot to video" I have no idea where that is now.
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Mar 7, 2024 16:17
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Lumpy posted:I'm going to claim that I helped with that mini. You did because after you said that I went and added it!  Spanish Manlove posted:Can you get a pic with an angle showing off the tattoo? That's so sick  Super Waffle posted:Can you share how you got that skin? I tried to get something similar for my chaos lord but he just ended up looking Latino at best It's a butchered version of the way Louise Sugden shows how to do it on WH+ Masterclass but basically it: 30% Doombull Brown 70% Bloodreaver Flesh basecoat Progressively more Doombull added to the base to the recesses and shadowed areas Thinned Rhinox Hide to shadowed areas Glazes of Word Bearers Red to add spot warmth (like to cheeks, lips/mouth, nose) Rhinox and Abaddon Black 1:1 around eyes and for the pupils -- Pallid Wych for the scleras and teef Basecoat to raised areas for highlighting 10% XV-88 + 90% Basecoat to smaller raised areas 30% Karak Stone + 70% Basecoast for more highlight Then pure Karak for spots
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Mar 7, 2024 17:05
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AndyElusive posted:Glazes of Word Bearers Red to add spot warmth (like to cheeks, lips/mouth, nose) this is good advice for any human skin tone that isn't makeup. i've found any time my paint mix stops looking like skin, it means i washed out all of the red/orange
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Mar 7, 2024 17:08
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It's also why Games Workshop started painting their Orks more yellowy, it's easier to transition to a little more red from yellow than dark green to give skin more of a living glow.
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Mar 7, 2024 18:20
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Heresy Postin'Major Spag posted:Continued effort
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Mar 7, 2024 19:15
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AndyElusive posted:You did because after you said that I went and added it! That tattoo is so rad
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Mar 7, 2024 19:28
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AndyElusive posted:You did because after you said that I went and added it! That's so sick. Finally a space marine that will eat your children
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Mar 7, 2024 20:03
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AndyElusive posted:You did because after you said that I went and added it! I’m going to try this out sometime, thanks
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Mar 7, 2024 20:13
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Double Posting: WIP shots of my Warboss, who I dropped today and had to reassemble before taking these shots (Left Arm is the only place it shows):    The fading I did on the red went more pink than I wanted, I’m going to try washing it with some Khorne to bring it back.
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Mar 7, 2024 21:56
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So, I painted this Gluttony, the Bubonic One resin print, from Dark Gods - and I don't know why, but I don't like how it turned out. The oil wash did a lot to punch in some nice shadows, especially on the back, but it feels a bit like visual mush. (I have to 3D print a backdrop while I'm thinking about it, because the paints in the background aren't doing the picture any favors either.) I don't know what would make it look better. Any ideas? 
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Mar 7, 2024 22:31
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Firstly, i think it looks great. But if you want to take it further, then the answer is almost always increasing the contrast. Your oil wash has probably dulled some of the highlights, even though you wiped it off the top bits. You could go back and keep adding highlights. Also, with such a big model, then it makes sense that there is a movement in colour from top to bottom. The whole bottom of the bigature can be darker than the top. But, it looks great right now!
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Mar 7, 2024 22:38
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First miniature done for Turnip28. These models are so cool. 
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Mar 7, 2024 23:10
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Professor Shark posted:Double Posting: Looks great. The bosspole and the effect on the horns kick rear end.
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Mar 7, 2024 23:22
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