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RangerScum posted:I wanted to run Lucius the Eternal in my CSM army but didn't want to use GW's ancient model for him so I printed & painted this up. I hate looking at it (complimentary)
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Mar 7, 2024 16:50
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And my Guard sweep continues with me finishing Ripper Jackson yesterday. Turns out that Catachan take very well to be painted as Vietnam Marines. Who could've guessed.  Also I no poo poo spent like 30+ minutes looking at pictures of Khe Sanh combat base, just to try to figure out how get the perfect shade of reddish brown for the soil. Need to try a darker shade if I ever paint more Vietnam Catachans. GW just need to come out with an updated kit for them first.
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Mar 7, 2024 17:26
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Catachan are the one regiment in the index that don't have new models, so that would be my guess.
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Mar 7, 2024 17:27
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Lostconfused posted:I've been cursed with knowledge that Chessex dice are not perfectly balanced. Apparently the trick is to get the translucent ones because they can't sell you dice with obvious holes inside if you can see them
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Mar 7, 2024 17:42
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Its a feature. Just keep all the dice that rolls 6s and throw out the ones that rolls 1s until you got an elite dice set
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Mar 7, 2024 17:55
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Cooked Auto posted:And my Guard sweep continues with me finishing Ripper Jackson yesterday. I really need to paint my Ripper. As well as all my Minka Lesk... And Goff Rocker. And old headswapped Scions. And the list goes on....
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Mar 7, 2024 17:59
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Cthulu Carl posted:I really need to paint my Ripper. Funny enough I realised earlier that I've now painted Minka, Ripper and Severina all with either tanned or non-caucasian skin tones. All I'm missing is either Sergeant Carl Weathers or the Unbroken Kasrkin to paint and I've done most, if not all, of the Guard special models.
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Mar 7, 2024 18:04
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Cooked Auto posted:Also I no poo poo spent like 30+ minutes looking at pictures of Khe Sanh combat base, just to try to figure out how get the perfect shade of reddish brown for the soil. 
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Mar 7, 2024 20:38
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Lostconfused posted:I've been cursed with knowledge that Chessex dice are not perfectly balanced. Unless someone took 1000 dice and rolled them 100,000 times and showed me a chi squared, this claim is always some dumb grognard poo poo
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Mar 7, 2024 20:46
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A bit late now, but I guess that's good to know.
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Mar 7, 2024 20:48
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Two really cool models on the top of this page. That Lucius looks disgusting in a way that Chaos marines very rarely manage. A new range of Catachans would be incredible, I like the few special models that they've released recently. Even the old kit looks decent when you swap around parts with the old Cadians to make them look just a little more like soldiers.
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Mar 7, 2024 21:31
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Crosspostin’ WIP shots of my Warboss, who I dropped today and had to reassemble before taking these shots (Left Arm is the only place it shows):    The fading I did on the red went more pink than I wanted, I’m going to try washing it with some Khorne to bring it back.
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Mar 7, 2024 22:01
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conveniently I just got my textured paints in the mail - I'm not sure what I expected but for some reason I didn't think they'd be a power. Someone previously said that the binder isn't necessary and the directions kind of imply the same and it almost seems like you can just brush them onto things, but surely they'll just...fall off, right? Would I want to carefully put the binder on the primed base before trying to sculpt on the textured paints? I was gonna use a big brush to apply them but I'm struggling to imagine how that will work. I have a few extra bases I'm gonna fiddle with to learn how it actually feels and stuff, but if anyone has any hot tips for the actual application I'm very curious Professor Shark posted:Crosspostin’ I'm very impressed by how precise people ITT are with the freehand elements and shading. this looks great! also while I'm asking stupid questions, how do application sheets or whatever work? I got a page of mechanicus insignia with the serberys raiders and I'm unsure how to use them properly. Just slap 'em on and paint them with a drop of water like a tiny temporary tattoo?
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Mar 7, 2024 22:50
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Frog Act posted:conveniently I just got my textured paints in the mail - I'm not sure what I expected but for some reason I didn't think they'd be a power. Someone previously said that the binder isn't necessary and the directions kind of imply the same and it almost seems like you can just brush them onto things, but surely they'll just...fall off, right? Would I want to carefully put the binder on the primed base before trying to sculpt on the textured paints? I was gonna use a big brush to apply them but I'm struggling to imagine how that will work. I have a few extra bases I'm gonna fiddle with to learn how it actually feels and stuff, but if anyone has any hot tips for the actual application I'm very curious I went back and checked your purchase you linked: Frog Act posted:Also, for textured paints, I'm grabbing: Those are pigment powders not texture paints. The Vallejo texture paint comes in big jars like this:  I certainly didn't help since I'm blind as poo poo and didn't double check the linked product. I saw mud, which is a giant chunk of their texture line, and thought you found a multipack. The binder will help for your pigment powder. Here's a pdf directly from Vallejo on how to use it. Sidenote: If you have a matte medium (which is just acrylic paint without a pigment in it) you can combine those pigment powders with it to make a traditional paint btw Here's my previous post on texture paints, which will give you the names and examples of the paints: The Demilich posted:Texture paints are pretty fun, and yeah there's lots of rough ground options. GW, Vallejo, AK Interactive, and Pro Acryl have dedicated texture paints with comparison photos so you should be able to pick out the effect you like. Shout out to Winsor & Newton Galeria black lava texture gel for being awesome as well. Here's an Amazon link for actual texture paints from Vallejo if you wanted to stick with one brand for some reason, although there's no reason to tbh. Texture paints will absolutely stick to primed bases with no issues. One thing people do after applying texture paint and sticking their models on the base is to take pigment powder and brush it on the base & feet of the model to give it a bit of uniformity and make it look like they're actually a part of their environment, like so:   If you varnish your models the pigment will stick anyway.
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Mar 8, 2024 00:19
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I love those peanut butter jars of texture paint that Vallejo makes, if they made a crackle one I wouldn't buy gw paste ever again
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Mar 8, 2024 01:25
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Yeah, I have a pair of the smaller bottles. One with a more sandy texture and then one with something more muddy that comes with some lumps of vegetation in it. Both have seen some good use, more than the GW ones. Wouldn't mind getting some more variants, but space is becoming a premium in my work area.
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Mar 8, 2024 01:35
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The Demilich posted:I went back and checked your purchase you linked: lmao gently caress, I totally looked at all those links too, and saw a number of them on Amazon but went with what I misread as a pack of smaller, cheaper bottles. oh well, it does seem like the pigments + binder will be useful. I appreciate you digging up the PDF too, thanks! Just bought some actual vallejo texture paints, whose reviews are full of pictures of painted warhammer models, so I think those will work for my purposes and possibly even be enhanced by the pigments. I think they'll work well with the grass tufts, flocking, tiny rocks etc I have. Gonna experiment with some extra unpainted bases I have and see if I can enhance them meaningfully before loving up any models
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Mar 8, 2024 02:01
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Lostconfused posted:I've been cursed with knowledge that Chessex dice are not perfectly balanced. Good news, absolutely nothing about this game is well balanced enough to make the slight issues in commercial dice have a meaningful effect. You would need to have heavily weighted dice to throw a 6 on command to make an impact, otherwise your game is going to be decided by the latest balance slate and/or your game knowledge.
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Mar 8, 2024 02:15
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AnEdgelord posted:I love those peanut butter jars of texture paint that Vallejo makes, if they made a crackle one I wouldn't buy gw paste ever again If it doesn't have to be Vallejo, I have some good news for you! https://www.amazon.com/Viva-Decor-F...136&sr=8-5&th=1
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Mar 8, 2024 03:27
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AnEdgelord posted:I love those peanut butter jars of texture paint that Vallejo makes, if they made a crackle one I wouldn't buy gw paste ever again I have some good-rear end news for you. AK Interactive has 100ml containers of crackling earth for ~$10ish.
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Mar 8, 2024 04:08
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Cease to Hope posted:I have some good-rear end news for you. AK Interactive has 100ml containers of crackling earth for ~$10ish. Do they take color well? Or is it just brown
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Mar 8, 2024 04:10
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Ominous Jazz posted:Do they take color well? Or is it just brown I only recently learned of them myself, so I'm still experimenting with my first container.
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Mar 8, 2024 04:11
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May I also suggest Huge Minis? https://hugeminis.com/shop/tabletop-miniature-basing-materials/texture-paste/
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Mar 8, 2024 04:16
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I tried some Golden Crackle paste and the cracks were not small enough for a mini base. I haven't tried any of these others, does anyone have examples of them in use? I'd really like to find something cheaper than the citadel versions so I can re-do all my ork bases.
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Mar 8, 2024 06:49
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Bucnasti posted:I tried some Golden Crackle paste and the cracks were not small enough for a mini base. This was one of my golden crackle attempts ... but I've had environmental issues during this process that were out of my control. As Golden states: Golden posted:The size and extent of the crackle pattern is dependent on many factors, including the thickness of application, and the environmental conditions (temperature, relative humidity and air flow) during drying. I've recently had bad problems with the lack of heat in my area during the cracking process. In fact I had a 2 day session where no cracks appeared until I had a non rainy day and was able to shove it in the sun for a few hours and only then did cracks finally develop. I'm trying to figure out what additives will exacerbate and shrink the cracking. When I discover what they are I'll share. Currently the cracks when thick could work great for large cracked tundra ice which I'm definitely going to use for my Night Lords, but I want them smaller as well for other units. For examples of other brands pastes check my previous post, the links should have a number of pictures for different product.
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Mar 8, 2024 07:12
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I use Golden Crackle paste for all my bases cause I'm lazy and my observations so far for miniature use are that if you put them on bare plastic they won't stick very well and will lift at the edges. I slap some sand medium that I have on first but I've also heard that a thinned layer of PVA glue works fine too, which gives the paste something to grip onto. The other thing I noticed is that the thicker the layer the less cracks you get, so maybe try applying a thinner amount. I don't think you can get it to look like Citadel ones though, the composition seems to be a little different (since it wasn't originally designed to look nice on miniature scale).
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Mar 8, 2024 07:18
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Yeah, you definitely need an adherence layer. I've tried PVA in a thin layer and it works perfectly. Without that layer it'll slip and slide right off.
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Mar 8, 2024 07:22
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Lostconfused posted:I've been cursed with knowledge that Chessex dice are not perfectly balanced. Neither are any other dice you purchase that don't explicitly say they are, like casino dice.
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Mar 8, 2024 07:29
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I am bringing a portable craps pit to my next tournament so I can use my casino dice.
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Mar 8, 2024 07:37
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RangerScum posted:I wanted to run Lucius the Eternal in my CSM army but didn't want to use GW's ancient model for him so I printed & painted this up. Holy poo poo, GW just leaving money on the table by not revising the Lucius kit to look half as dope as this.
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Mar 8, 2024 07:42
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S.J. posted:Neither are any other dice you purchase that don't explicitly say they are, like casino dice. Plus you gotta throw casino dice the right way and replace them after a certain period of time!!
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Mar 8, 2024 08:06
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Frog Act posted:lmao gently caress, I totally looked at all those links too, and saw a number of them on Amazon but went with what I misread as a pack of smaller, cheaper bottles. oh well, it does seem like the pigments + binder will be useful. I appreciate you digging up the PDF too, thanks! idk which ones you bought but vallejo does do smaller texture paint pots, my Grey Sand is 30ml
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Mar 8, 2024 08:39
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Eej posted:Plus you gotta throw casino dice the right way and replace them after a certain period of time!! Yeah people have tons of weird rituals like that.
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Mar 8, 2024 12:59
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AndyElusive posted:Holy poo poo, GW just leaving money on the table by not revising the Lucius kit to look half as dope as this. GW has not sold a Lucius mini for years
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Mar 8, 2024 15:08
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You need to kill Lucius to buy Lucius.
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Mar 8, 2024 16:31
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It's almost as if there is a whole legion they are leaving on the table, perhaps the coolest one who rocks out the hardest. Maybe.
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Mar 8, 2024 17:16
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The persistent rumor of a full EC book are gaining volume, since we got World Eaters as a faction in 9e after getting DG and 1k Sons in 8th. I imagine that’s when we’ll see a Lucius model, along with a Daemon Fulgrim in plastic.
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Mar 8, 2024 18:09
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DAD LOST MY IPOD posted:The persistent rumor of a full EC book are gaining volume, since we got World Eaters as a faction in 9e after getting DG and 1k Sons in 8th. I imagine that’s when we’ll see a Lucius model, along with a Daemon Fulgrim in plastic. It's once of their worst kept secrets
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Mar 8, 2024 18:15
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So if I go out to a local game store and pick up the 10th edition core rule book is that what I actually need to know to push plastic space bugs around the table with others, or have there been a bunch of rules updates somewhere I need to download that change things so much it's not worth having the book and there's easier ways to get all the rules? I got the updated version of my Tyranid codex with the OC stat so I think I'm mostly OK with that unless there are also a similar set of changes to the codex as well.
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Mar 8, 2024 18:46
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The core rules are available online as a PDF from games-workshop and on certain russian hosted websites. And there are some extra rule changes that have been made and release as PDFs published on the warhammer community website or something. That's enough for a friendly game, but for tournament level playing you'd need a lot more clarifications there because the rules aren't completely clear, intuitive, or well written, and people chose to interpret them in specific ways. You also need the "Leviathan Deck" because that's the thing that actually tells you how to setup a game and what the objectives are and how you count score in the game, that might or might not come with a rule book. Edit: The deck stuff is also available on the previously mentioned russian website, and maybe your game store might have one available for use if you're planning to play there. Lostconfused fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Mar 8, 2024 |
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Mar 8, 2024 18:48
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