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The power of liefeld compels you   those reiver helmets are a joy to paint Bohemian Nights fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Mar 8, 2024 |
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Mar 8, 2024 00:12
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Cannibal Smiley posted:So, I painted this Gluttony, the Bubonic One resin print, from Dark Gods - and I don't know why, but I don't like how it turned out. The oil wash did a lot to punch in some nice shadows, especially on the back, but it feels a bit like visual mush. (I have to 3D print a backdrop while I'm thinking about it, because the paints in the background aren't doing the picture any favors either.) I don't know what would make it look better. Any ideas? I second punching up the highlights, especially on the yellow buboes, eyes, anything bone colored and the tongue. Maybe some select green edges on top, especially around the face since that's your natural focal point on him for the eye. I might even do a small wash of something purple or blueish around the buboes; just enough to make the flesh look distressed like flesh does around real buboes. I like to remember the old Inflammation symptom quarter from school for Nurgle models-calor/dolor/rubor/tumor (heat, pain, redness and swelling). Makes for good Nurgle names too. Edit: the tummy maggots look just like the teeth from a distance too. Hmm, maybe a light wash of some kind of like green or reddish tint on them would help? Dr. Red Ranger fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Mar 8, 2024 |
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Mar 8, 2024 05:40
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Should I thin paint-on primer or is that the one where I should just use it more or less as is?
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Mar 8, 2024 06:20
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Bohemian Nights posted:The power of liefeld compels you Figure I'd ask, since I'm looking to start painting up my Phobos Strike Team as Deathwatch, and you have some pretty decent black armor, what'd your recipe? I've seen a few different ones in various places, and having a few different schemes to choose from isn't a bad thing.
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Mar 8, 2024 07:41
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Nessus posted:Should I thin paint-on primer or is that the one where I should just use it more or less as is? It depends how thick it is to start with. Just like regular paint, you want it to cover the plastic but not obscure details. I use Vallejo brush on primer and i always thin it slightly.
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Mar 8, 2024 08:18
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Nessus posted:Should I thin paint-on primer or is that the one where I should just use it more or less as is? no, it already forms very thin coats
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Mar 8, 2024 15:04
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Beffer posted:It depends how thick it is to start with. Just like regular paint, you want it to cover the plastic but not obscure details. I use Vallejo brush on primer and i always thin it slightly.
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Mar 8, 2024 15:57
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 Just a dinky little Chihuahua
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Mar 8, 2024 16:14
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Would nail decals work on miniatures? I think I'm gonna commit to a really silly idea but if that wouldn't work I would have to reconsider. Edit: I dunno why I'm being coy with it. I got the grimghast reapers on the cheap and they look like they are wearing sunglasses and wearing oversized jerseys 
Ominous Jazz fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Mar 8, 2024 |
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Mar 8, 2024 17:49
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Aniodia posted:Figure I'd ask, since I'm looking to start painting up my Phobos Strike Team as Deathwatch, and you have some pretty decent black armor, what'd your recipe? I've seen a few different ones in various places, and having a few different schemes to choose from isn't a bad thing. Sure! I'll give it a try, but I'm very much a novice, and might not have the painting vocabulary to describe my process in a way that'll be useful, but I'll try: My method is pretty drybrush heavy, and is done entirely with scale75's Flat Black, Eclipse Grey and Graphite, which all finish really matte, which I appreciate I start off basecoating with flat black, thinned with lahmian medium, then move on to drybrushing with a small, round drybrush. I make a new mix of flat black and eclipse grey, about 60/40, and heavily drybrush that on any surface that would catch light- I then dilute that mix with progressively more eclipse gray, until you're basically working with 100% eclipse. The more eclipse grey I add to the mix, the lighter I go on the drybrushing, and the more I try to focus on just the edges. For the last drybrushing pass, I add a bit of the lightest grey, graphite, and wipe off pretty much all of it before applying it to the model-- I've hosed up this step before, where I just end up caking light grey and ruining any gradient I had going, so take care. We're probably talking five or so rounds of drybrushing After all the drybrushing is done, I move on to edge highlighting, and I basically repeat the way I mixed the paints for the drybrushing, but all of it is thinned with generous amounts of lahmian medium. Starting off with thick lines,, and the closer I get to graphite, the smaller the line. After hightlighting, I use a soft brush and cover the entire thing in thin layer of stormshield, which obviously varnishes, but also somewhat smooths out the transitions. Then I do a final highlighting pass with graphite, trying to just hit the extreme, top-facing edges with the side of my brush
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Mar 8, 2024 19:07
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Ominous Jazz posted:Would nail decals work on miniatures? I think I'm gonna commit to a really silly idea but if that wouldn't work I would have to reconsider. It might be a problem since they're designed to go onto a flat surface. But if it's for Blood Bowl, please at least try once.
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Mar 8, 2024 19:35
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moths posted:It might be a problem since they're designed to go onto a flat surface. It's be for my AOS guys (once I learn how to play it). I didn't even think about the flat surfaces part of it. Edit: nails aren't flat????
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Mar 8, 2024 19:49
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If they're just like water transfer decals then micro sol/set should still work for conforming them to irregular surfaces.
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Mar 8, 2024 20:01
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I believe I mentioned it, but I only just got microsol for the first time yesterday and it's a whole new world. I've tried to make decals work with just water and it's been a serious struggle
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Mar 8, 2024 20:11
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What are these words
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Mar 8, 2024 20:45
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Listen. I'm a simple man. Very, very simple.
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Mar 8, 2024 20:52
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I mean microsol and set
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Mar 8, 2024 20:59
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Ominous Jazz posted:I mean microsol and set Oh! I thought you were making fun of me for my ignorance :P Microset and microsol are a pair of products that, respectively, prepare the surface for the decal and softens up the decal to adhere to uneven and curved surfaces Here's a super short eons of battle video on it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2N9PTCsuJw I went back and touched up every single decal I've applied previously and they basically just melted perfectly to their surfaces (unless I'd already applied varnish over the decal)
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Mar 8, 2024 21:26
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Nails are curved, but they're more flat than the faces of a miniature. Definitely invest in microsol & microset.
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Mar 8, 2024 21:28
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microset is very marginal for wargame miniature painting. you don't need it and probably won't notice any benefit from using it, especially if you gloss varnish a surface before applying decals. microsol is the magic stuff. i wouldn't try to apply a decal on anything but a flat plane without it, and even then it will just seem to melt the decal in place, making it look so much better and more natural.
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Mar 8, 2024 23:56
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Microsol works wonders for precut waterslide transfers like the kind from GW or Mighty Brush. On the other hand, I've got some that need to be cut out from Scumb4g and it doesn't matter how much Microsol I slather on them they'll never melt enough to make the edges disappear.
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Mar 9, 2024 00:38
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AndyElusive posted:Microsol works wonders for precut waterslide transfers like the kind from GW or Mighty Brush. The practical solution to this problem is to varnish and sand a couple of times, but that sucks and takes forever. Have you tried Tamiya Mark Fit Strong? It's extremely hot, and it'll melt just about any decal you throw at it.
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Mar 9, 2024 02:17
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Cease to Hope posted:microset is very marginal for wargame miniature painting. you don't need it and probably won't notice any benefit from using it, especially if you gloss varnish a surface before applying decals. I've been using microset instead of water for getting these decade old decals off the paper. My attempts with just water resulted in torn decals, but with microset they come right off.
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Mar 9, 2024 02:17
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I'm trying the alternate time-saver gemstone painting methods seen here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUBtItceuec (Duncan using Citadel Gemstone paints) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ag_v_I552M (Juan Hidalgo incidentally using Contrast paint over silver as part of a broader video; couldn't actually find videos of anyone directly discussing contrast over silver) And it is just not working for me. Primarily both methods say it's important to start at the *bottom* of the gem and brush smoothly up, but these are thin paints; I'm just getting gravity causing them to pool in ugly ways and not the richer color at the top "look at that, you take the brush along there and there it is" Duncan got. I'm not adverse to learning the traditional method and I know that Juan's method involves some layers and highlights so it's not even a ton different from traditional. I'm just confused how they get the results they do with the method they describe.
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Mar 9, 2024 02:37
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You won't necessarily be touching the brush to the surface with that gemstone method. You put sort of a thick blob on the bottom and manipulate it upwards, drawing the paint out but not "brushing it on." It can help if you do a layer of high-gloss (gloss acrylic) or self-leveling (floor polish) varnish first to smooth the surface as much as possible. First-generation contrast over silver works really well. My current favorite gold paint is contrast Snakebite Leather over silver. The newer generation is a bit more opaque and can ruin the metallic effect.
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Mar 9, 2024 02:46
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Vallejo Xpress is a bit more translucent than Contrast. It might work better?
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Mar 9, 2024 03:27
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If gravity is working against you, hold the model upside down. And yeah, do a droplet, not a thin coat.
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Mar 9, 2024 07:56
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grassy gnoll posted:Have you tried Tamiya Mark Fit Strong? It's extremely hot, and it'll melt just about any decal you throw at it. That sounds like what I need! I'll pick up a bottle and give it a try.
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Mar 9, 2024 09:52
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Re: gemstones, I have all the Citadel gem paints and honestly, results are really meh. Duncan has a new Striking Scorpion painting tutorial out. His painting method looks good and is only three steps or so. Faster than when I did some Blood Angel gems.
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Mar 9, 2024 12:05
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Professor Shark posted:Re: gemstones, I have all the Citadel gem paints and honestly, results are really meh. There's something about their glossiness that seems different from gloss varnish that I like but yeah I'm aiming for purple gems here and it's a trick to mix the red and blue to get a purple as vibrant as what I get from Luxion Purple contrast over silver. It's just that what Duncan got in the video looked good enough to my eyes I wanted to try. PoptartsNinja posted:You won't necessarily be touching the brush to the surface with that gemstone method. You put sort of a thick blob on the bottom and manipulate it upwards, drawing the paint out but not "brushing it on." Interesting tip. I am experimenting with this now. Muir posted:If gravity is working against you, hold the model upside down. And yeah, do a droplet, not a thin coat.  I will pretend I already considered thisThank you everyone. I am making progress on getting something satisfactory here. Thank goodness for extra chunks of primed sprue to test on.
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Mar 9, 2024 16:51
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Painting 20 troops only to then decide the paint scheme isn't quite right and I need to repaint their armour is a fun and productive use of time. Wait no, it isn't.
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Mar 9, 2024 21:06
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SuperKlaus posted:I'm trying the alternate time-saver gemstone painting methods seen here I haven't a lot of success witht the gemstone paints or contrast over silver. What has always worked for me is brushing slightly thinned Tamiya Clear Colors over silver or gold. GW clears work in a pinch, but I have a harder time getting the coat consistent.
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Mar 9, 2024 21:20
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Failson posted:I haven't a lot of success witht the gemstone paints or contrast over silver.
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Mar 9, 2024 23:55
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https://imgchest.com/p/ljyqqqmkny2 Sister Testpaint of the Order of As Yet Undefined is (basecoat) painted. I have a huge number of qualms - as you can see my basecoat effort for the hair was definitely not thinned enough but I think the red for the robes was if anything TOO thinned. I am a little proud of how my attempt to tint dark ivory for the armor appears to have managed to nail the shade for verdigris I was going for. Still I thought I would share. I will do reshoots if I can figure out how to make the iPhone 13 do close up focus better. Nessus fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Mar 10, 2024 |
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Mar 10, 2024 00:04
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Anyone got a recommendation for low-odor spray primer? I've been 3d printing a ton of stuff, but since it's been -30 outside a lot, I cant spray outside.
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Mar 10, 2024 00:48
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Failson posted:I haven't a lot of success witht the gemstone paints or contrast over silver. What's a Clear Color paint? Do you have pictures of some results?
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Mar 10, 2024 05:56
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Professor Shark posted:Double Posting: Looks badass! This model brings back a ton of memories for me. I used to have the version of this model with the Attack Squig about 20 years ago. :') I was super proud of him.
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Mar 10, 2024 06:05
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SuperKlaus posted:What's a Clear Color paint? Do you have pictures of some results? Because of the solvent base you can get them much thinner without them breaking up (as long as you using a matching solvent-based acrylic thinner like Tamiya X20A) which means you can airbrush them on in multiple thin layers to build them up and get a nice candy coat scheme going on. Because of their properties they also work amazingly over bright silver or gold to simulate lenses or cameras because they allow the shine to come through from the metallic underneath. E: Here’s an example from Gunpla (which often uses old scale modelling tricks like this one): https://fichtenfoo.net/blog/making-and-painting-lenses-and-eyes Mercurius fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Mar 10, 2024 |
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Mar 10, 2024 06:23
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the version of that I've wound up preferring is over white rather than metallics, still more than bright enough and gives a smoother result on small things like marine eye lenses. you can also do underpainting tricks (e.g. paint it in the classic gem style but b&w, then tint it with the clear) and it's really easy to get a nice gradient with just a normal brush
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Mar 10, 2024 08:12
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Aliensandwich posted:Looks badass! I have the Attack Squig arm in my bitz box if you ever get the temptation to return to it and need sn arm! I also had this guy 25 years ago and couldn’t paint it the way I envisioned, so this has been a lot of fun for me!
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Mar 10, 2024 12:39
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